I have two Megadrive II and both works perfectly. The market has been flooded with these machines and even if they were cheaper done most of the time they works better then the first version. The second one I bought for almost nothing since it had no box and cables. I even got a cool rent box and a RGB-cable. Mega Drive 2 model used a different AV output from the first generation machine, with a much smaller plug design, however it brought the welcome addition of Stereo Audio along with the Composite Video signal (whereas the original Mega Drive only had Mono audio output, and relied on the headphone socket for stereo sound conectivity. If you have a TV with RGN SCART input, consider getting the best picture possible with a Multi-AV to RGB SCART Cable.
erm, wow, I totally forgot about that Megadrive, now I feel like a **** writing that on the case/board I don't remember doing it but I obviously did not consider the extra editing, if I remember right it was savaged before I got it and I had so much trouble getting the 7805 desoldered I gave up, fast forward XX months I now understand the value of a quality soldering iron :D great to see it is up and running again!
Awesome repair. I love seeing this stuff fixed. On my model 1 and model 2 Sega Genesis consoles I had the same issues with the reset button and ended up sourcing a new button for both of them.
Fun fact: The old 9/10V unregulated PSU that came with the Mega Drive are really more in the ballpark of modern 12V Regulated PSU. I measured ~14V Idle for my Original Mega Drive Power Supply and 11,75V under Load. Another thing: If you are at around 13,5V or lower at idle and 11,5V and lower under load, you need to replace the 3300µF/16V Cap inside. I also have an old, Linear 12V PSU: unloaded it does 16V. Due to Rippleness of modern PSU, I think it might make sense to replace the Input caps with Polymer or a mixture of Polymer and Ceramic capacitors instead.
@@DrTofu83 9V Regulated DC PSU? That can work in some cases, on my SFC, a 9V SMPS didn't work. Though I don't own an Original one, aand can't measure it. And getting ine isn't easy as I need a Step Down Converter too... But I got a 10V Mega Drive one and measured that. And that was around 1,,75V under load, with a new Secondary Cap and~14V unloaded. Someone with a US NTSC SNES measured the no load Voltage for me and it was similar to the Mega Drive PSU.... Though I need to get a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER Inside the SFC. Also, something that might be important for use with modern PSU: you might want to replace the Input Cap with a modern Low ESR or even Polymer Cap.
@@Stefan_Payne Guess I got lucky, or the EU Master System II was somewhat more forgiving. The original 10V PSU died, I had this 9V from a guitar pedal, tried it and it worked with no hiccups
@@DrTofu83 How could the Original PSU die though? ;) Its just a lump of Copper and Metal + 2 or 4 Diodes and a BIG Capacitor. That's about it. So my guess would be that your Original PSU should be serviceable, if you still have it. All you need to do is to replace the Capacitor and/or the Diodes (or the Diodes with a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER)...
Hey Jan. When removing a regulator that's bound to a heatsink, get the hot air station out and warm up the area around the regulator, primarily the ground plane, then if you can prop station nozzle so its blowing on the heatsink while you work on the pins makes life far easier 👍
Very good repair. I think there must be several different versions of the Mega Drive II. I bought a lot of 3 on Ebay as broken and when I opened them, all 3 of them were different inside.
There were multiple revisions, starting at VA0, which seems to be the one Jan has here. According to the net, at least the NTSC version went through several revisions more. I don't see hints at other PAL revisions, though. Might be a good idea to replace the 7805 in my MD2, though...
Back in those 199? Days,having a Sega mega drive was a virtue😀 for a kid and gift from heavens,not everyone as a guest was elligible enough to touch the precious Sega😂.good old days are gone for good,you know...
The z80 was often thrown in to that large ASIC chip, starting with the 315 label. Originally on model 1s it was just the VDP but later down the line they put more and more components into that ASIC.
Great video, mine only showing a black screen atm. Got it from my brother who got it from a shutdowned Coffee Shop he needed to clean up en empty the building) and as you know people smoking a lot (of weed) in there. No PSU (u can use a PlayStation One PSU, same voltage), no Games but came with a Atari Joystick. Bought two games, but still black screen, got IPA recently and soon as i have the time i will clean out the Cartridge slot and the games with it and i hope that it works then :)
Some later official Mega Drive 2 PAL consoles had Z80 functionality removed although. It would say so on the front of red coloured Mega 6 console boxes.
Nice to see that I'm not the only one who writes swearwords on boards that are broken! (The code I write isn't for the "sensitive", either! (MANY curses in comments!))
For things like that regulator, preheating the board (and heatsink) with hot air works wonders. For the damaged ground pad.. im not actually sure why they bothered to use a plastic-cased 7805 here. The heatsink is connected to ground, and the centre tab of a TO-220 is connected to the middle pin - also ground!!
Not to be rude, but this MD2 board does actually have a Z80. While a Toshiba clone in this case, it's the tiny square chip near the Sega logo and "PC BD MD2 VA0 PAL" text.
Thanks for another nice video Jan; when you first opened the case I thought "someone has already replaced all (electrolitic) capacitors', that's how it looked to me. Are you sure those are the original capacitors?
Wenn du das Gehäuse zum Schluss mit ein wenig Cockpitreiniger abwischst, sieht das Gerät am Ende noch einen Tick sauberer aus. Das Zeug entfernt zumindest die kleineren Kratzer ziemlich gut....
Does the Mega Drive 2 also require Center negative PSU??? That's why I put in a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER in my two Mega Drive 1. So I can use modern SMPS.... And I also replaced, what I think is the Input capacitor, a 16V/220µF one, with a 470µF Nichicon on one and a 1000µF Kemet A750 in the other one (because i was out of Nichicons)
Hallo Jan, 7805S ist die isolierte Version des Reglers. 78S05 ist die 2Amp. Version. Bei dieser Reparatur scheint es egal zu sein, aber wenn mehrere Spannungsregler (z.B.: 7805 und 7905) mit dem selben Kühlkörper gekühlt werden, dann musst du die Spannungsregler isoliert aufsetzen!
I got a question: On my own sega mega drive 2 I have the white letters with some yellow. So if I start a game and play it the white parts are yellow. Has this something to do with the power regulator or the capacitors? It also becomes hot on the left side on the cartridge where the power regulator is. Should I replace it?
Hello Jan, I have a question. I think You live in a PAL (50Hz) region. But when You showcased the console, the game was running at 60Hz. What happened?
It's because a company in US called "Mega Drive Systems, Inc." held the trademark for "Mega Drive" in the USA for use with "computers and data processing equipment". So they had to give it a new name.
