Thank you so much for this video! After watching it, I retrieved by 20-year old Seiko 5M62-0D30 out of the drawer, used your website to identify the correct capacitor and now have the watch up and running again for the grand sum of around £13 and 20 mins of my own time!
Great video. I like when owners - not all, depends on skills - have option to fix things they own. Is it possible to change battery - capacitor ;) - in the model 3m22 to 5m42, to get bigger capacity for the watch or these are different watches models in terms of size, so capacitor phisical size are also different? Exactly I'm referring to Seiko Kinetic Arctura.
Hi Scott. I've not tried it myself but looking at battery/capacitor details, it looks impossible because of the physical size difference. For 3M22 (picture: www.watchbattery.co.uk/shop/products/BBCU-30273MY.shtml ) it seems smaller than for 5M42 (picture: www.watchbattery.co.uk/shop/products/BBCU-30235MZ.shtml).
Where can I buy 2 small screws above capacitor? Left screw won't come out. What's a good screwdriver to buy? I just replaced old Maxell with new Panasonic (Indonesia); second hand goes to 20 when round button is pressed (max is 30).
You're welcome. I've had that before (the seconds hand still skipping) and it was because the battery/capacitor didn't have a full charge when I replaced it (it was new but had been stored for a while). But after recharging for a while it was OK and kept its charge, so hopefully it's the same in your case.
This video gave me the courage to try and replace the capacitor on my 28 year old kinetic, my first real watch. It had been stuffed in a drawer for almost 5 years after it had stopped working properly. It's currently sitting in a watch winder, happily ticking away. Thank you! I also found out why it must be so difficult to make or restore watches. I definitely lack the steady hand to handle all those tiny screws. One of them jumped when I tried to replace the capacitor cover and I spent a few nerve wracking minutes trying to find it back.
Woohoo - well done! I agree, it's so difficult to keep a steady hand AND keep an eye on the tiny parts. I've also spent a lot of time searching on the floor! Sounds like you did a good job in the end. 👍
@@mohnnadmercedes8246 That's hard to say. I think it should keep working for at least 10 years or more. But it's best to keep them charged. I let mine drain completely and sit empty for an extended time, and that's why it failed on me.
Thanks for making the video, I'm using it to replace the battery in a 5M43. I fell at the first hurdle though as my cheapo 'Precision' screwdriver set did not fit the screw in the rotor tightly enough to give me confidence to unscrew it so I stopped. The groove in the top of the screw is quite shallow. Can you recommend a screwdriver set ? Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! I'm afraid I don't know what part number the 9T82 capacitor/battery is, and it looks like Seiko have deliberately not made it public. They tell you to send the watch to them for replacement instead. I don't know of a workaround unfortunately. Here's a (Japanese) article where someone tried to do it themselves but gave up due to the movement being so complicated, and the battery is not even visible! cadweb.jp/watch/?p=1642
Mine won’t hold a charge It works, but second hand gives a double tick and will stop if you don’t wear it for a few hours Does it sound like a capacitor to you? It’s a model 5m42-0809 Indicator at bottom of red
@@2dthoughts Yes, this sounds like a capacitor that won't hold a charge anymore. Sometimes if you shake it for a few minutes it charges enough so that it ticks normally, but after a few hours it'll go back to the 2-second jumping or stop completely. So yes, changing the capacitor should fix your watch. The correct capacitor (battery) number is 3023.5MY - sometimes written as 3023-5MY or 30235MY. Hope that helps!
Hi Paul. Officially it's called a capacitor but most people seem to refer to it as a battery. Either way, it's rechargeable and there's only one in the watch, so in this case "capacitor" and "battery" are referring to the same thing. Sorry for the confusion.
Great video... step by step guide was perfect... even managed the tricky capacitor cover replacement with no issues!! My only issue is that the rotor doesnt move as freely as i think it should... the wheel and rotor are placed perfectly on the square spindle and the screw tight (not overly tight in my opinion)... the rotor moves but definately not as freely as in your video.... the wheel and tiny cog move perfectly thi the rotor... do you have any advice? Cheers, Phil
Firstly, congratulations on doing the replacement! It definitely takes patience. Regarding the rotor, I can't think what might be obstructing it other than perhaps some tiny bits of fluff or dirt, maybe around the little ball bearings or cog. I have noticed that some of my kinetics don't move as freely as rotors on automatic watches, so it could be just the way the movement is built. I'd say you have a couple of choices - either put it back together and wear it for a while to see if it works OK after all. Alternatively take it apart again and really check closely for signs of dirt, perhaps using a blower or bit of rodico to remove anything that's difficult to notice.
Sound advice, thanks!!! And thanks for such a fast response... there did seem to be a little dust around the tiny cog, so I cleaned gently around that area with a soft bristle brush and seems better... I'll see how it goes, but maybe get an air blower and try that also... how dust gets into a water toght sealed unit is beyond me!! Ive had it from new and the back has never been opened... Thanks again... cheers, Phil
Hi Christophe. I remove the rotor so that the gear underneath it can be removed, instead of trying to slide the battery cover under it. You could be right, it might be possible to replace the battery and battery cover with that gear still in place, but I find it safer to take it off so I have a clearer view of everything.
How do you ensure it remains waterproof? I have a Seiko divers watch very similar to this, but have hesitated to restore it because I’m worried it will lose its waterproof seal. I’m not planning on diving with it, but would want it to withstand at least swimming pools. Do you need to replace the case gasket?
