Seiko SAVE THE OCEAN "Antarctica" Fresh Releases for 2022 

Thank you - it's a prime 35mm lens (macro). I guess the AF speed is a function of the camera? (EOS R). I did notice the AF takes a while. Lighting I do need to play with and will. When it's over exposed, how do you recommend I rectify? Turn down the ISO? Close the aperture a bit? Or screw with shutter? Here's where I am - F16, ISO 4000, 1/60 shutter speed. Feel free to email us to continue to convo if easier.

@@islandwatch If the depth of field is where you want it, then turn the ISO down to a lower setting. 4000 is very high. You could bump it way down and likely open up your aperture (to a 'lower' f number') but I don't shoot macro lenses so I'm not sure of all the implications. Typically this would cause more background blur. Shutter speed is fine and will probably remain 1/60 for everything you do. I did a quick search of your camera and adjusting autofocus speed and found this: 1. Change to (or make sure that you are in) Video Mode 2. Menu: AF, item 3, second row "Movie Servo AF speed" Speed can be set (to various degrees of slowness) in one-point AF. This is available only when a "lens compatible with slow AF adjustment" is used, otherwise AF speed will fall back to "normal".

@@adventurepromo Found these settings, lemme tool around.

Well done Mark for diving into a new camera set up. Yes, hopefully you’ve been able to play around with the AF settings. There are SO many AF parameters to play with now, it’s a bit complicated.🤪 As you’re in the US, I’d keep the shutter speed at 1/60 (NTSC). Exposure was a bit hot (bright). I agree, I’d turn the ISO down (colours and definition would become a tad better too). Or perhaps the lighting could be turned down a little- they don’t need to be on full blast (if they are). Or, you could keep the light intensity level the same, but use some diffusion on the lights to soften the light a little. This will lower the light level a bit, so you may not need to adjust exposure settings that much. Mirrorless/Dslr camera’s do need a bit of light for the AF to behave properly. So it’s down to some trial and error in your ‘spare time’ to see what works best with your set up. And perhaps a darker background to make the watches pop more (and then a lighter background for the dark PVD watches).😅 Congrats though. Love your channel .

True!

Okay, thank you.

They are addictive.

Thanks for watching!

Makes sense!

I think so too!

Thanks Lou!

You bet!

Glad you enjoyed it

Indeed.

They are!

Thanks for the feedback.

I concur 😊 lol 🙋‍♂️ appears extremely bright

Haha, thank you

I tried this baby tuna onto my 7 & 1/4 inch wrist and it wears like a 38 mm and just looks too small. I agree with you that Seiko should have kept the 46.5 mm design that SRP637 had as it maintained a nicer presence on the wrist, similar to the Monster. So it looks like I will have to go with the Monster I want to enjoy this new dial.

Cyclops is 🤮

It’s nice! Awesome

It would also allow you to move your studio lights more to the side, hopefully that would reduce reflections on the watch crystals by a decent amount

Never gonna happen!

@@islandwatch of course it won’t. Just dreaming 😂

Thank you

Thanks so much.

👍🏻

Good point, thank you.

Noted, thanks.

Okay, thank you

This is a 4R36.

Sorry typo I meant 4R36

Thanks Brande, appreciate it.

They are!

LOL. Remember that?

Cannon EOS R and 35mm macro lens

Thanks, me too!

They sure are!

Thank you.

Lol

Thanks much.

Okay, thank you!

Cool, thanks!

Thanks!

awesome, thank you

I think it would be fine. The watch is almost totally round. It actually looks small.

For sure, thank you!

He always wears two.

I'm also thinking the white gloves need to change color.

Glad you like them!

The problem with light backgrounds is my gloves 'disappear'

Okay, thanks!

Thanks!

thanks Eugene

Okay, thank you.

Thanks, Joe.