Thankyou so very much for posting this, pushed the bolts out with ease so very glad you took the time to not only show this but for sharing it made the job effortless
THANK YOU!!!! I had a stuck bolt in a leaf spring bushing. I tried everything to get it out, with no luck. After seeing this video, I rented the ball joint removal tool from Advance Auto and pressed that FN stuck bolt right out!
I have an idea to get the bushing out, drill out the rubber surrounding the outer metal sleeve the best you can, maybe use a sawzall to after, then knock the inner part out. Then you can cut the rubber with a razor/boxcutter and be left with bolt and inner sleeve. You could then put it in a vise, heat up sleeve, put oil on threads end before it enters inner sleeve and hammer or airhammer thread end while you turn head of bolt back and forth with a wrench. Might have to reheat if it starts to seize. The outer sleeve in the arm, maybe try tapping it out with a socket or race driver/punch. If that doesnt work if you have a welder or means to stick weld with 2 batteries and jumper cables, you could try welding a bead around the inside on each side, when it cools it pulls on the outside of the sleeve slightly, its a common technique used on outer bearing races. You could also try heating the arm outside the sleeve and try to spray some oil in between sleeve and arm. Or welding nuts to the sleeve so you have something more substantial to push/hit on. Im sure there is a master bushing press kit out there as well, or car specific kits but probably pricey.
Thanks for the video. Overall this worked for me until the bolt was flush with the housing. At this point i used a small socket at the end of the ball joint press to try to push the bolt further through. This method combined with an air chisel and a ratchet to rotate the bolt at the other end actually worked. It was a hell of a time, but it was successful! Thanks again for the idea!
Great concept video. Unfortunately on a Subaru rear control arm bushing there is only space for a wrench on the top. Which doesn't allow you to work the bolt out.
Great demo Dave. As you said, one to keep in yer pocket. Sure to come in handy. 2 things...Those rubber bushes a very very effective at doing exactly what they were designed to do. And the JB Weld didn't do a half measure as a stand in for seizure did it? Thanks for taking the time to both you and Matt. Golden "shop know how" Vid. And a wee bit of astronomy for good measure. Cheers and Thx.
I didnt think the JB weld would have been as good. I wasnt sure how this experiment would work out, was surprised. Maybe has ended up promoting JB Weld haha, take care, dave
The trouble with this method is that when you need to remove a bolt like this it's on the car and you never have nearly close enough space to work on it with a clamp press. Using an air hammer is often the only way to push a bolt out and can be worked from a slight angle if it's crowded in there.
cool as approach things but always try and work, many tha thave seen today if a bit hard or what ever dont work on it, me had to as no cash no nothing is yes or yes think a way and go ,, Thanks a lot
I got a bolt stuck in a bushing for the lower control arm and I took the wheel off and smashed it with a 10 pound hammer but nothing so now ima try this
Cut off screw close to mount. Dremel out the back side of the screw around circular part with a steel routing bit. Then smack out with a poker. Of course the screw will be trashed...but if you’re desperate, it works.
I got a real stuck one. My 2000 camaro has a front control arm bushing with a seized bolt. I've hit it hundreds of times 5 lb sledge, penetrating oil, but no heat due to living in condos. I'll try this method next thank you for posting...
@@ThatSaskSilverado Hell no. The metal inside the bushing has formed to each other and is one solid piece. After weeks of research come to find out the only way to get it off is to cut it. Apparently im not the only one who has had this problem. bought a bunch of carbide blades ($200 worth), 2 different paddle grinders, and a bunch of quality cut off wheels.
@@ThatSaskSilverado I asked My buddy who works for a Honda dealership, what he does in this situation. He told me he has come across this situation a hundred times and cutting it off is the only way. BUT! The steel for the bolt is most likely a higher grade and hardened over time. So it requires not just a off the shelf saw blade. Not even the quality Milwaukee carbide will cut it unless you have a strong back and dont mind cutting 3-4 times necessary. Apparently the lennox CT is what his Mato guy brought him as a secret weapon for heavy jobs, and project farm verified that for me on RU-vid with the "which carbide blade is best video". Great thing about the Lennox CT carbide is amazon has it for $15 a piece. One thing I noted is a lot of pros in shops/RU-vid videos use paddle grinders with quality cutting wheels capable of stainless (like the dewalt wheels found at lowes). Went with the dewalt DWE402, and a Hitachi as a backup. I did also purchase a few $20 welding blankets to protect anything during cutting and prevent blade damage when the cutting wheel catches in the steel and kickback occurs at 11,000 rpm. Using a high powered cutting wheel in tight quarters is the equivalent of a 12 gauge shotgun slug, hold tight when using dont limp wrist it. Lol!! Doing mine next week I will make a video and upload it
Great video Dave, did I see you on the SMA live stream the other night , Eric sure is a nice guy , very clever on the diagnosing of Mr crusty in the wiring department in New York State , is your unit registered for business rates, I've just applied for the cv19 business grant a week ago , took 7 days , bingo, pays the bills while doing the DIY , kitchen now plastered , what's next on the agenda , better ask the missus , take care
I was on it for a wee while, i dont normally comment as there's so many. I might have shouted out to Cuba or some of the other utubers that i know. No, my unit doesnt qualify as its my own garage at my house.
@@davesterl costs me about 4 ton a week to walk out my front door when I add the bills up , punters think we work for nowt , they always have done , very unrewarding trade is ours
@@mikeberry304 oh i hear ya, want everthing done for next to nothing, no idea whats involved. Sort of why i started videoing some jobs, to raise public perception
Aha, you caught on to that. I did that to try to get wildlife into the timelapse, birds didnt go for it. There is one piece went missing, just about catch it. The camera was taling a picture every 30seconds
No no just a suggestion. I'm in the exact same position where the bolt is stuck bbut I don't have any tools or material. I was thinking instead of JB weld just use a cheap welder if you have no other solution to the problem
Ball joint separator/press. I got mine at harbor freight for 59 bucks. Hit up their website for their 20 percent off coupon. I haven't tried it for this method though, I will in the morning though. I've spent hrs, and $400 on an impact etc to try and remove it, now I see it was a waste of $$ :(
@@brinksbrewsandbreaks5995 yep, I had to cut/burn the rubber out until I could get to the metal sleeve, , then I took a pneumatic chisel and die grinder to the metal sleeve until it cut through the sleeve enough to pry it open AND THEN the bolt turned right out. It was horrible. I made it so hard because I was trying to reuse the original bolt, bolt came out unmarked and worked great. Sucks dude, once I saw it was only 1 bolt holding it on... I knew it was too good to be true. If I had to do it again I'd probably just cut the nut off that's welded onto the strut and pneumatic hammer the bolt right out from the cut off but side. I also did all this while the strut was on the car, I'm sure it would have been much easier if I removed the whole arm, but I figured that was just asking for yet another messed up bolt teasing me to kill myself. I wish you the best of luck brother. I've still got to do the other side, if I didn't just recently have my entire large intestine removed I would make a video of the hell for you. Take care
JB weld is not anywhere comparable to the torque needed to break free a rust seized bolt. Youre talking about the strength of steel on steel pretty much welded on with corrosion vs some strong glue... I like the idea of the video but I'd be more interested in seeing the same test with actual real world representation. No one out there is dealing with bolts glued by JB weld..
