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In a world full of climbing instruction videos - some good, some not so good - I consistently come back to yours. They are clear to follow and quite well done. Thank you.
Thanks again Jez. Practiced this a few weeks ago on Tanygrisiau slabs and faffed around a bit. Having watched your vid I can see why. I was trying to hoist off of my rope, and take weight off climber using sling from belay device ! Doh!!! Obvious when you see it done well. Thank you.
Excellent vid Jez! Thankyou very much for making it. Learnt some really useful stuff here. Never seen a stirrup hoist before. Great video. Again thankyou for spending the time and effort to make this.
Awesome vid, exactly what I was looking for… a couple of questions that I guess are kind of linked - what if your rope isn’t long enough too get you to the ground in one run? How do you get your rope back after getting the cas down?
After the transfer, clip a draw between the cas and you, and have a little longer loop for them so that as you ab you can use your legs to push them away from the rock (especially on slabs) so they don’t scrape and catch... helps with a real unconscious cas... but those refinements are why folks need to practice... goes up a notch when you’re barrow boy-ing with a bell stretcher, lol! good vid as ever, cheers, Jez.
Glad you liked it :) Indeed, definitely needs practice to refine it! Personally I prefer them to be well above me, but we all have our preferred ways of fine tuning these things!
@@JBMountainSkills I suspect my legs are a bit shorter than yours! Angles a bit different etc... Getting it so you have it wired for you is the key to all these techniques. :-)
What is that belay loop+girth hitch+wraps+carabiner-back-to-the-belay-loop friction hitch that you call a prusik? I get that a sling made out of utility cord is often called a "prusik". I think it's perfectly safe, but a bit unusual, and I hadn't seen it before. Maybe it's a sort of french prusik/autoblock/Machard knot separated into three pieces.
Another very useful video, thank you Jez! I imagine it may sometimes be nearly impossible to hoist the climber with a simple stirrup, for examle if we are lighter than him. What about rigging a 2:1 system? E.g. with our stirrup sling starting on the prusik, going through a carabiner on the climber's belay loop, back to another carabiner on the prusik and finally to our leg.
Thanks for the videos you make, Jez! An idea for the next video (this actually happened to me): I was on the ground, belaying my climber in a bottom rope scenario. My climber was halfway up when she got her knee stuck in a crack and couldn't get it out for quite a while. How would you get to your climber? Perhaps with different variables or whatnot, having/not having an anchor at the bottom to transfer the weight onto, to be able to escape the system, Thanks again for the videos!! It's been great learning about the rescue type stuff!!
Hi Jez! I commented on an older video to say hi but i'll repeat myself here :) - Greetings from Australia, I am loving your channel so much, thanks for all the amazing climbing info! I'm getting back into it after 2 years off from a broken ankle, hopefully videos like this (and local training/courses) will help keep me a bit safer! If it doesn't already have a name I had a suggestion for your attic training area - *Sweat Summit* 😅 Cheers mate, keep the videos coming!
In situations where time is at more of a premium, would you ever consider cutting the climbers rope just above the figure-8 instead of hoisting and untying? Obviously only if the casualty's injury won't be made worse by the movement, but do you think there would ever be enough of a "shock" load in that scenario to worry about the sling breaking?
That's what I was thinking. If the person is unconscious then I would think it serious enough to cut the rope after you have connected them. You will have to abandon all the gear above you at this point anyway (depending on the circumstances). I would imagine the dynamic rope would whip up from you, so there would be a very small chance of triggering rock fall. Hopefully jez has some thoughts on this.
Depends who's rope it is ;) I wouldn't have a knife on me in all likelihood, but if you did, yes you could - just need to be super careful with a knife around loaded lines. You'd get the casualty's weight on to you as much as possible. There'll be plenty of rope out to negate the fact that there'll be some movement on to the sling setup. You could of course cut a rope with a prusik too. I have cut a sling in anger, when a friend on a neighbouring route had an accident and was being helicoptered off, I was just very careful!
What length sewn prusik cord do you typically use? I’ve seen 30cm and 60cm on the market. Or are they just for different scenarios? Would you recommend getting one of each length?
Brilliant video JB. Super clear and informative. Have you done a video on the 'Jesus nut/piece' before? Would be interested to hear your thoughts on this, i.e. placing you first bit of gear after leaving the your belayer at the stance.
I take it you would abseil into them only if you couldn't lower them to the ground? Or would you always abseil if they where unconscious? Great channel by the way thanks!
Glad you like it! If I could just lower someone down, safely, I will, much easier! Maybe there's ledges, or I need to get down to them for first aid anyway.
Might be useful to showcase escaping the belay while belaying from the anchor in guide mode, just for completeness sake (well, it’s actually very common these days, isn’t it...)
HI Jez, thanks for the video, we really like them! How about a video about headtorches pros/cons as it's winter almost? You could test them in anger on the hill?
Twin ropes... as with all these situations, it depends, but the easiest thing to do is to treat both of them together as one rope. If the rope doesn't reach the climber and the floor, you'll need another set of tactics. Could involve hoisting, prusiking, loads of variables!
Single pitch is simple enough. Clove hitch to the nearest two QuickDraws then absail down. You’d be leaving two draws and a rope but it’s the fastest way to try to get to them to get help and leave a redundant anchor. If they were using an ATC then you are unprotected until you get the first clove anchored. If they were using a grigri then I might be moving back one draw to have enough slack. If you didn’t bring a belay device then you will have to use a Munter hitch or carabiner brake. Multipitch is a little beyond my pay grade but I’d probably call for help asap, and treat them like a haul bag on a bail. Probably still leaving gear to speed things along.
Could you get away with clipping the unconscious climber with a (locking) quickdraw to the carabiner that is in the abseil plate? Instead of using the knotted sling.
Short answer is I'd have picked a different method. All these kinds of videos really just give the building blocks, picking the right options and order in the harder part.
Hey JB! I am at the 3rd belay station of a multipitch sport climb belaying my partner up to me when suddenly they fall unconscious. What do I do to get us both down and off the rock when only having one 60m rope.
