Yet another great live thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience from the world of tuning I would love to know more about the members section your going to create I’m up for that please🙏 I appreciate all that you share with us 👍🙏👌
I will be doing a video on that imminently to explain what that is. In essense there will be two levels of hand holding for when you self tune so that you are not just in it on your own... just trying to define the exact level of handholding that I can commit to before promoting it properly.. Thanks again :)
Regarding O2 sensors and heaters getting weak: I had an intermittent O2 sensor heater circuit code P0032. A lot of troubleshooting led to weak MOSFETs on the ECU. There are two MOSFETs that switch the heaters on/off.(PWM) and these can fail. Couldn't find a replacement ECU for an 04 Baja turbo so I ordered new beefier MOSFETs and went in. Scary, that.... They are SMD type (sort of tiny) and I was able to change these out. Success! No more swapping o2 sensors, testing wiring, all that. AFR back to normal and CELs gone. Hope this helps someone with similar issues.
Question from a Subaru Newbie: I have a 2015 STI and have noticed a Knock Sum on cylinder 4. When driving in the city, it reaches around 29, and while the car is idling, it’s about 6. Max Knock Sum Details: • Cylinder 1: 0 knock • Cylinder 2: 1 knock • Cylinder 3: 2 knocks • Cylinder 4: 29 knocks Also, the car is currently tuned to accommodate the supporting modifications. I used RomRaider for logging. Appreciate the help. Would love to learn more about know sum values per cylinder
Hi. I covered this in one of the academy videos on Knock control but to give a summary of what is known.. The knock sum probably isn't what you are expecting it to be, it appears to be a total of noise events for that cylinder. Bear in mind the knock sensor is on cyl 4 though... So this isn't just knock or detonation. There is a separate knock translation table hidden within the ecu that determines what to do at certain levels for each cylinder on a basis of probability that the noise is knock/det. It doesn't mean it definitely is, the table just defines what action to take to avoid detonation. It is OFTEN wrong. The only way to make sure it isn't detonating is using det cans. Make a set as per my vid and you will be able to tell for sure and either fix the map or stop stressing over a fairly meaningless single value such as knock sum.
Hi Duncan, just running through all your videos (absolute marathon), where abouts can i get a standard file? my cars been previously mapped and dont want to start tweaking someone elses work. 2015 2.5 STI
Hi. There are some stock roms on the romraider forums.. Should get you started 👍 If any issues, join up with the academy and I can point you in the right direction specifically 😎
@@racedynamix thanks buddy, had a look and ended up downloading a bunch but not entirely sure which one should work specifically with my 15 STI bacame a member and watching videos now lol still trying to work out al the ECU edit stuff just about to buy the full version
Any tips on cloning my 2013 WRX STI ECM the old is intermittent. I have a replacement but need to clone VIN, Immobilizer and keys to replacement. Though first I need to really reset my ECM. I disconnected fuse and reprogramed the old ECM and it did run better for a while. I need to change plugs to make sure they aren't problem and planned on really resetting ECM while battery is out. Then program it again the files may just be corrupt and may need to be completely reset. Plan is disconnect battery and connect battery cables together to completely drain system while off battery. I have a couple of great custom files on my Cobb tuner, but something is odd with ECM. I am in WA state my problems starting during COVID when the car sat for a couple of weeks with a dead Optima Battery which I had to try a lot of tricks on to get it to hold a charge without success (had to finally just replace battery). A couple of years later I got a really trick charger which finally charged it off the car my other chargers wouldn't touch that thing. It would hold no charge. Even tried connecting it to a good battery and charging the combo didn't work. The car was very fast and ran great before the prolonged dead battery or something done while recharging that Optima battery. I did something odd to the old ECM. It is frustrating when the car was running great and very fast before this event. Dead Optima batteries are a pain.
It is intermittent throwing random error codes mainly stumbling and misfires. The car ran great but during COVID it sat with a dead optima Battery for a few weeks since then despite reprogramming it multiple times with my Cobb tuner it eventually starts acting up again pulled fuse to reset it recently ran fine at first but acting up again. If the rain ever stops I plan on putting in new plugs and while the battery is disconnected short the cables to completely reset it and tuning it with my best Cobb tune. Frustrating that it was running perfectly before the prolonged dead battery, but something seems corrupt in the ECM files I am hoping that new plugs and a hard reset will fix the darn thing. @@racedynamix
Thanks! US here, 2004 Subaru Baja Turbo (essentially a Forester XT drivetrain). I ordered a half meter OBD2 extension cable with a right angle socket and routed it to the center console. Now I don't have the flash dongle hanging down below the dash. I'm grateful for this series since I'm new to tuning. I recently replaced the old turbo with a new OEM turbo, new vacuum lines and restrictor pill. Having issues with overboost. Formerly maxed out at 13 PSI (~ 0.8 bar), now exceeding 16 PSI (over 1 bar) and the ECU cuts boost quite dramatically.. Running fine otherwise. Any ideas? I tested with the old restrictor pill and the 2 port solenoid (OEM) tests fine. Thanks again!
Yeah.. Great points 👍 I presume the restrictor pill you put in is smaller hence higher boost. Solution is to do the tuning.. Which I will be covering.. Or refit the old pill to reduce boost til Tuned. Raising the boost cut may or may not safe so don't do that unless properly tuning it please. I hope that helps.
@racedynamix Wow. Thanks! The pill is the same size. I'm not looking for a lot more power and am fairly easy on this car. Raising the boost limit would be nice but I don't know at this point how much boost is available now. Maybe a larger pill? I'm hoping to stay mostly stock since this vehicle is largely back to factory, but know I can tweak a bit more power. 210 HP from factory. 220-225 would be nice. The original fuel distribution was leaking so I rebuilt it to a parallel system running at 40 PSI,, mainly so I can pull the intake manifold without all of that junk attached to the bottom. Stock Subaru injectors. Seems to be working perfectly,, except for the overboost issue. I'll stay tuned!
@@TheGhungFu yeah.. Maybe a pill with a larger hole would solve it. Because of the changes you have made it is making boost easier than the std map thinks it will. It reaches above the original boost target then panics and drops it down so you would see the boost fluctuating but it is hitting the boost limit before it can bring it under control. Hth
Hi i have a issue with reading the map on a 52 plate forester 2.0 xt ej205 all connectors connected would you be able to shed some light on this for me many thanks Adam
@racedynamix 1. Engine is fully stock 2. I installed fmic and intake 3. On full boost afr shows 12.5, my little knowledge says it's leaning out. Because previously afr used to go upto 10.5, 11.3 on full boost. 4. I'm from Bangladesh, we don't have tuners here. And I own the 1/1 legacy gt in my country, can't get any helpful information anywhere. I was thinking of installing powerful fuel pump and FPR to raise up the fuel pressure but from online ppl are saying Subaru motors don't work like that.
I have now paid for the ecuedit software and read me ecu, i open up my rom in ecu edit and it doesn't load right? My table numbers are all over the place and i cant get the 3d maps, im sure my mapper has used carberry will that be the problem or do i need some different ecu definitions?
Hi Kevin. Yes, I have opened the map you sent me in ecuedit and it is carberry 3.6.5 You will need to add those definitions. If you have any issues I will send you what I use 👍
Hi subifans, does anyone have any idea where can I find, get or buy ECU definitions for ECUFlash, for my EDM 2008 Impreza GH 2.0R 150HP NA. I don't want to get any HP more, just need to tweak 2000-3000RPM range. ECUFlash ommedata folder doesn't have my car
@@racedynamix :) Here is the problem, I've almost bought Tactrix but I was affraid I won't be able to open the rom. I'm guessin I have to buy Tactricx, connect, read rom and than send it to someone? Or rom id is somewhere written?
This has caught so many people out.. Tuning for the fueling after setting off immediately then for it to run lean later and wlalso wondering why the avcs doesn't work 👍
Hi. Interesting.. I will have to research that as I am not aware of whether the legacy internals are stronger or not.. Sorry I can't give you a better answer
I for one want to learn how to map my own car not!and never! want to earn money or make a living from it and I doubt others will but there’s a small minority that will who always spoil it but there’s only engine builders that will benefit from this and the the noob mappers reputation will go down the pan and be a short lived venture 😂😂
I have seen them come and go over the years. TBH it doesnt bother me at all. There needs to be more people across the world that know how to tune subarus properly.. Happy to help that :)
@@racedynamix and your getting grief already for that shallow minded people out there I would help anybody out there to carry my profession on and it’s like you say it’s about giving back we have all had enough out of our profession 👍👌
