Sequence of operation 80% gas furnace 

That's true!

just started northwestern tech! this is my first video! gonna watch all of his! i can tell he The Guru, im so excited.

Thank you William!

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you Don! I'm honored you watched! You rock!

Thank you!

Thanks for the feedback I will see about correcting that!

I SECOND THAT!!!!!!!!!!

I heard you loud and clear sir, the video was perfect from head to toe

​@love2hvac sound/volume definitely too low. I see where others are also disparing..over your volume.

just deduct 10% of what you learned hear or add 10%

Yes! I have been preparing for a complete electrical series. It's taking a lot longer than I expected but coming soon!

Andale ariba! 😂 My wife teaches me some Spanish, especially when she's mad 🤣

There are a lot of unknowns with this question. 1st there are several very specific codes and restrictions around gas furnaces in a garage. From air leakage and ventilation and ignition sources. 2nd airflow is the biggest most overlooked part of air conditioning. The vast majority of units I run into have undersized return air for existing equipment and new equipment required even more. You would need to look at ACCA manual D to ensure the suction side would handel it. There is a Facebook group called "Fix my HVAC" where the proper calculations can be done for you with a lot more helpful inforation too.

@@love2hvac Ok Thanks! Somehow I had missed your reply.. A better option might be to have it in the sun room on the back of the house which is the same level as the garage. No gasoline is ever stored there. Also two steps down from main floor. Floor joist would use up some of that space I suppose but not quite todays 11.5 inches. .I believe there are old school 2x10's under there. That way it could be situated directly in line with the horizontal unit that's under the house now. The system now has gigantic return lines with 2 large return inlets. One in the floor and one in a wall.

The key it to remember it's a combination of a regulator and a valve. This helps with the diagnosis process. Valves in reality have much more going on inside it. Redundant valves, servos ext. The pilot combination gas vale has is addition to those a separate valve and coil for the pilot. It was called a pilot combination gas valve but people shortened it to just combination gas valve. Kinda like rim and wheel. A wheel has a rim but the rim is technically not the whole wheel. People still call wheels a r and that's fine as long as people know what they are talking about.

It won't tell you how much the inducer is pulling vs what the switch will close at and too much vacuum will damage the diaphragm inside the switch. However some people just like sucking on tubes. 🤷‍♂️

Double wall keeps the flue gas temperature warmer. This benefits natural convection and keeps the flue gas above the due point temperature to prevent condensation.

Yes but its not called that. Most call it a pressure switch. Reality it's a negative pressure switch. So I call it a vacuum pressure switch most of the time. I have a video on it somewhere.

Almost all 80% furnaces are Category 1printed in the data tag. " Category I is defined as a gas heating appliance with a flue loss equal or greater than 17% (non-condensing) with a negative vent static pressure." 80%, The inducer draft motor does pull a draft through the heat exchanger but it does not force it out the flue. The motor is just too small and the flue pipe is just too big. Natural convection causes the flue gas to draft out faster than the motor can push. This causes negative pressure in the flue pipe. If you start doing combustion analysis you will see it's negative pressure, or you can use a draft-rite Guage and check it out just put a hole in the flue and use smoke and you will see the smoke is pulled into the flue pipe not pushed out. Some furnaces have a draft hood sensor on the flue connector. If the inducer pressurized the flue it would push gas over the sensor and trip it every time. Because the flue is negative pressure it will only trip if the flue is stoped up and the inducer pushes air over the sensor to shut the unit off. There are a few that use category 3 positive pressure, but it does not allow B vent It must be classroom resistive (stainless steel) and the connectons must be sealed. Then cat 4 is 90+ condensing sealed with PVC The flue is smaller and pressurized the entire PVC. I have a video on inducer fans and I show the draft on a running furnace at the end. Hopefully that helps

You're the best. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

only 2 It was so I could show 2 things at the same time while recording but I always roll with a back up in the feild.

Craig is a friend of mine. He is the g.o.a.t.! I apologize for the low volume. My android, my wife's Iphone and my computer all play the volume well. Some people have voiced volume issues with this video. I have no way of changing it but I'm always trying to improve as I go.

This is interesting some people hear it just fine and others say that can't hear at all. I'm not sure why. The sound is normal ony computer, my android and my wife's I phone. I don't know what else to do with it. All the original footage got deleted by accident when transferring files.

And the other half say I talk to slow. You can adjust the speed in RU-vid. Slow it down and speed it up.

It's full of safety components making it very safe. If it's too complex Don't drive a car, use your refrigerator, microwave, or any technology for that matter.

@@love2hvac you are comparing,”apples to oranges”.

Some people try to learn and understand, others just say it's too complex.

@@love2hvac this is not a matter of understanding, as I understand it well enough. Each of the many steps are a different possibility of failure. This isn’t quantum mechanics or even solid state chemistry. There are just way too many variables that could unnecessarily cause a system failure. As someone who is elderly, this is a concern to me, and should be addressed for everyone.

It is a very simple process. There are multiple safeties and redundant safeties in place all of Wich shit they system down. They are many many times safer than all the furnaces ever before them. Simpler is not safer. Cars today are more complex than before but now we have anti lock brakes, air bags, crush zones, automatic fuel shut off systems. Driving any car is very dangerouse but the added complexity makes them more effecency and safer. An 80% furnace is very simple but has many important components that where mandated to make them safer. The inducer fan pulls a draft threw the heat exchanger some em if a crack acures it's less likely to have carbon monoxide leak. The induced draft also pre ents back drafting that was a previous problem. The hot surface ignitor replaces a standing pilot meaning there is less fule used and safer than having a constant open flame and condensation on the heat exchanger. The tube heat exchanger allows the flame to be controlled for better heat transfer and longer heat exchanger life. They heat exchanger is lighter and allowed it to be smaller space easier to install. Before the flame burned against thick pice of metal that took a while to transfer heat then took a while to cool down. Flame impediment of the old heat exhangers would commonly crack. Door safety switches, fill out switches, limit switches, draft hood limits, pressure switches are all safety components that trigger an immediate shut down. It does not get any simpler than an 80% furnace. It even comes with installation instructions and a diagnostics chart in the manual and an led leading the tech to what's wrong with it. Simple, safe, effective.