Set Needle and Presser Bar Height on Singer Model 237 Sewing Machine 

Welcome. BTW, .290 to .300 inch equals 7.37 to 7.62 millimeter. Thanks for watching my channel.

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you again, but I have yet another question. I have been watching many of your videos to try and learn how to fix my Singer 966. It's not "vintage," but it seems to be similar to the older models. My problem now is that the needle bar has 3 lines, not 2! I tried using the bottom 2 to set the needle bar height and the timing, and succeeded in getting it to form a straight stitch. But the needle hits bottom if I try a zigzag, so I know that's wrong. Any advice? Try the top 2? But what's the third one for?

@@alajnabiya Sorry but I'm not familiar with model 966 or the timing method for it. You can buy a Service Manual for it: www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-Sewing-Machines-961-964-966-967-968-972-974-Service-Manual-on-CD-in-PDF-/183676772390 or maybe someone on a social media sewing group, like facebook or yahoo, could advise you.

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you anyway.

Very welcome. It's a nice heavy-duty model, isn't it? It seems to me just keeping it clean and oiled would make it last a few lifetimes. Thanks for sharing your news and always happy to hear from Australians. 😀

You're such a good mom, Jean. I'm glad the video helped you. Your daughter is lucky; a good machine and a great mom!

You are welcome, Holly. Happy you got it sewing again. A very unique machine, IMO. You mentioned a Bakelite foot controller and I do have playlists for rehabbing foot pedals. This list would have the Part One video for each style and then you could see if one of my playlists is for your style of foot controllers. ru-vid.com/group/PLsCOZgzzaiKKBc_8gM1ItODgpHFn3NFGX Happy sewing and take care.

Thank you for saving your machine. Happy sewing!

I have seen close-up pictures now and agree with you that the thread guide (they call it a thread "guard" on this model) may be helping keep the gib and clamp in place. I found a place in Tennessee selling the gib and ordered one and when it arrives I'll know more. Have an idea about replacing the thread guide/guard but need the gib first. I think I'll be doing a video of all the little fixes at some point, hehe. Thanks for the offer David, but mostly thanks or watching and commenting. Take Care.

There sure is! The lower mark is called a timing mark and is used to set the timing between the hook and needle points. In general, when you turn the handwheel past the lowest point and the needle bar is on the way back up if you stop just before the lower mark disappears under the bushing then the hook point should be centered on the needle about 1/16 inch above the eye of the needle. People just call it timing and the lower "timing" mark is used to set it. It's odd because most people call both the marks timing marks, but I guess the more accurate would be the upper needle bar height mark and the lower hook to needle timing mark. Thanks for watching, Terry. BTW, at 1:50 in this video I show a close-up picture of the two marks and identify the lower mark as the "timing mark."

This model does not have specific instructions in the service manual for setting the hook/needle timing. The connections between the top and bottom shafts have a more permanent connection set during manufacturing compared to machines with gears or timing belts. The ONLY mention of timing in the Service Manual is under the part for setting the correct height of the needle bar and it says when the needle bar is at the correct height the timing will be set and normal. Ta-da! It's the only Singer machine I've seen like this. Here is a link to my 21 video Playlist for Model 237; ru-vid.com/group/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h One of those 21 videos shows how to check and set the height of the presser and needle bars to the correct height and here is the link to that video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bRjfg2VaqP4.html Every time (every single time!) I have had a model 237 with bad timing I found the needle bar had slipped out of the proper height and resetting the needle bar height corrected the timing. A few comments on this video say the same thing. Maybe the guy you took it to reset the height and it slipped again, or he fooled with something else, who knows, but now you can fix it yourself 👍🏆

@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the info Andy. I appreciate it very much..

@@aturner2080 Hoping that all it takes and good luck.

oops! Normally when they hit it is some combination of presser bar too high, needle bar too low or both are off. It sounds like you already checked that. Without hands-on the machine, I will tell you what I have found before, OK? In order of occurrence; 1. The Feed Dog was up above the needle plate when you set the presser bar height; the dog must be below when setting height. 2.wrong presser foot, not a low shank/vertical needle Singer presser foot. The multi-purpose foot is part #32774. Try a different foot if you can. 3. Wrong Needle Clamp. The part is #868821. 4. Needle Bar is Bent. (fairly rare, but happens) 5. Wrong Needle Bar (rarer) part is #86820.

Mostly fixed: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kVB-_1dmOFo.html More 237 videos: ru-vid.com/group/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h

Are you able to use the needle thread to "pull up" the bobbin thread through the hole in the needle plate before you start sewing? If your needle bar height is good there is not much left. Possibilities are a bent needle, needle installed backward (flat side of the needle to the right), needle not installed all the way up into the needle clamp, needle threaded wrong (left to right is correct) bobbin inserted incorrectly into the bobbin case, the wrong type of bobbin being used (Class 15 bobbin is required) hook broken or missing, hook not rotating. The above question I asked? I'm guessing the machine is new to you. YOu can download a free copy of the instruction manual from SInger www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 It has the threading, winding, needle insertion, etc to verify you have it correct.

If necessary you can remove the entire vibrating bracket & both bars as in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jKN-yOOBwr0.html to work on the stuck screw, but I think that would be more work than loosening the set screw for the presser bar though. You can apply penetrating oil, such as WD40, to the screw and bracket. You can heat up the screw/bracket with a hairdryer. One effective way to loosen it is to give it the screwdriver handle some good raps with a small hammer while trying to turn the screw. That is easier with a helping hand like you turn the driver while I tap on the handle. Either the screw was over-tightened, it has old dried oil in it that has varnished and acts like glue, or both 👀 The methods I mentioned are to soften the old oil for turning, or the sharp raps while turning can "break free" a stuck screw. If you do not have a penetrating oil, soak a cotton ball in alcohol and stick it onto the screw/bracket. That can help soften the gunk. You do not mention any rust but if it is rusty, then forget the oil and use a rust remover or the sharp raps with hammer method to get the screw turning. Be patient waiting for the oil or heat to take effect. It can take hours.

Greetings, Mike. Is your machine a model 237? If the needle clamp gets twisted then the needle may be turned slightly. That might make the machine start skipping stitches, (b/c the thread could be pointed away from the hook point) but it's unlikely to cause slanted stitches. Please see my (long) reply to FASTBACK 124 on this comment page to read my "twist" on slanted stitches. Thanks for watching my channel.

Thank you, Paul. I thought about the clip and I know one will snap right onto the bottom and sit in the grove. That would stop the needle clamp from sliding off the bottom. The problem then is that the gib also is what the needle braces against when you tighten the needle clamp thumb screw. Without the gib, even with the thumb screw turned all the way in, the needle just falls right out of the clamp. I did find a company who sells the exact gib (going by Singer Part Number) and it is in the mail to me from Florida. $4.99 + 3.85 postage (jeez) = $8.84. If it is the correct part and it works properly I will show it in a video and list the seller. I still have no joy finding the silly thread guard so I'm experimenting with other clips and wire to rig something up that would work and last a long time. I think this 237 & sister machine 239 are the only models that use this gib and wire guard combo. Thank goodness for that. I think they probably had many complaints from the repairmen and if not I have done enough cursing for all of us, OHNO! I appreciate the comment Paul and we will see how it turns out. Take Care.

Although the presser bar setting has no effect on timing, you are on the correct path with the needle bar. Model 237 is the only Singer I have worked on where the timing is automatically set by setting the needle bar to the correct height.

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank You. I had missed your earlier reply to someone on the question of timing so it was good of you to respond. She is sewing great now with no skipped stitches.

That is what I believe after working on the machine and reading the original Service Manual. On other machines you can disconnect a pulley or a gear to separate the connect between the needle bar and hook and realign the hook to the needle point. The way the mechanical parts of this machine are made there really is no way for the user to break the connection; the needle bar and hook mechanisms are permanently attached. So when the needle height is right, the timing is set. It's an easy system and makes me wonder why it is not on more models. Those Italian designers were on to something I think. Thank yu for watching my channel.

Nope. ❌ Model 237 needle bar is part #86820 and in most of the 600s T&S models, the needle bar is part #172033 and lacks a jib so they don't work on the Italian-made 237. 😥 www.sewingmachinereplacementparts.com/product-page/needle-bar-for-singer-237-sewing-machine www.ebay.com/itm/175181651317?hash=item28c9a3dd75:g:SKAAAOSwilxiHiQe

Thank you. The timing is controlled when you set the height of the needle bar. This is because of the way the hook driving shaft is assembled. When you set the height of the needle bar like in this video, continue turning the handwheel toward you a little bit until the lower timing mark is at the bushing. At that point, the needle should be directly behind the hook point and the eye of the needle should be a short 1/8 inch above the hook point. According to Singer, if the timing is off it is because the needle bar is set to the wrong height. This information is on page 10 of the original Singer Service Manual for Model 237, which can be purchased here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ Thank you for watching Andy Tube.

All the adjustment instructions for the needle bar, and most other adjustments, can be found in the Service Manual for Model 237. You can buy and download the manual here for $9.95 manualsoncd.com/?s=237&post_type=product There may be other sellers of this manual as well.

I'm glad you found the video, Terri. About your Japanese machine and the singer 15 clamp; what if your machine is a Class 66 Clone, not Model 15? Several companies there made both models after WWII. Is there an actual Model Number on the machine? Or any name other than "White"? Even though the needle clamp may fit the needle bar, it could change the height of the needle and mess up the timing. Sometimes the bobbin tells the story. Class 15 bobbins are very flat on the sides and Class 66 bobbins have a slight curve, like a saucer. Try to get a model number or name and I'll try to help. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.

Thanks for watching. Since I am more a mechanic than a guy who sews a lot I'll answer from that point of view; mechanics. It is rarely a mechanical problem on a straight stitch only machine. On a machine that sews both straight and zigzag, there is a slight possibility that it is out of adjustment and when you are moving a lever to sew in SS the mechanism inside does not go completely into straight-stitch mode but remains a tiny bit in ZZ mode so you get a tiny bit of a ZZ stitch. The easy way to test it is remove thread and sew on a piece of paper or fabric that has a straight line. If the needle holes are straight and dead-on the line you are good. If the needle holes are on both sides of the line it is still barely in ZZ mode and needs adjusting. The more likely reason is the combination of the needle to thread to the fabric you are using. A larger needle makes a larger hole. When the hook wraps or twists the needle thread around the bobbin thread it forms a "lock" stitch, like a twist or knot together. If the needle is too large for the material, the knot slips into the hole instead of staying in between the layers of fabric. Even though the machine is sewing in a straight line, the visible knot gives you a visual of slanted stitches. The same thing if the needle is correct for the fabric, but the thread is too thin. Most machines' instruction manuals will have a chart showing the fabric to the needle to thread recommendations. Here is the popular model 301 manual, look at the chart on the very last page for an example >> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20301%20and%20301A%20Slant%20Needle%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf The other possibility to me is that thread is wound differently on a spool compared to a cone. Spools are wound with a straight (also called parallel) Wind. Spools ware made to stand upright and the thread pulled off the side. Cones are wound with a more criss-cross pattern. Cones are made to have the thread unwound off the top of the cone. If you put a spool on a horizontal spool pin and pull the thread off the top of the spool I believe it adds a twist to the thread. If you put a cone on a vertical spool pin and unwind it from the side I think it adds a twist to the thread. Also, imaging a bobbin wound from a spool from the side and a needle thread coming off a cone from the side, or some other combinations like this then all kinds of twisting may be going on. Look how long this reply is and I have not even talked about tension! Yikes. I say do the sewing a straight line on a paper test to prove the machine is functioning properly, then start thinking about the needle size. My Mom always used the smallest needle she could for the material with a corresponding size thread. One last truism; you will always get a nicer straight stitch using a straight- stitch presser foot and needle plate vs. a Zigzag or general purpose presser foot and needle plate. The closer the needle is to the foot and the smaller the hole in the plate the less the fabric will "flex" as the needle goes in and out. WHEW! That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

@@andytubesewing1953 thanks for your reply I will try all your recommendationsone of the things I'm definitely doing is using the same needle for all different fabrics that could be one of the problems right there thanks again and keep up the good videos

@124 - I have a Model 15 clone (White 470), it is a straight stitch only, and the stitch may be what you mention here, I'm just guessing. It's straight, just not perfectly in line, it has a slight slant to each stitch. Man it's hard to explain. I should take pic of it and see if that's what you are describing. I assumed it was a characteristic of this particular machine.

Yes, it could be. Best of luck!

Vintage parts can be found on eBay and some private sellers. The models 237/239 presser bar part number is 170063. You can find it on this page: thriftyfarmgirl.com/singer-237-fashion-mate-sewing-machine-parts If by "bottom bearing" you mean the bushing the presser bar slides through on the bottom of the machine nose, that part number for models 237/239 is 92978 and you can find one on this page from the same seller. thriftyfarmgirl.com/singer-239-fashion-mate-sewing-machine-parts Thrifty farm girl, Connie, is a well-known trusted seller of vintage sewing machine parts. No worries.

Yes, Paul, very different than the 301 gib. It sits vertically in the needle bar like an upright letter "C" www.secocorp.biz/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/P1650169-1.jpg

Nope. It's from 1992, about 20 years newer than I work on. I've never even seen any of the models like this made in South America. Sorry. You can probably find the service manual on eBay for $10 t0 $20, and sometimes online too.

You're welcome and nice of you to comment. Take care.

Not sure what "casing" means to you, but here is a video for removing the needle plate and bobbin case on a 457 SInger. Start about 3:30 into the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6JTWF4rQbog.html Here is a video about cleaning, adjusting, repairing a class 66 bobbin like the one on your 457 machine, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HT5XZ5eYYEQ.html If these videos do not help you fix your problem, please put a video of your situation on your YT channel so that I can see what is going on. Good Luck.

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for your quick response and directions, which I will check out later this evening. (BTW, what I call “casing” is the round metal piece I drop the bobbin into.)

@@mary-----6293 What confused me was your wrote "so the casing doesn’t move". I thought you meant the bobbin "case" but the case never moves on your model; it does not turn or rotate. The bobbin case is supported by the Rotary Hook and that hook does rotate and the bobbin itself rotates as the bobbin thread is pulled off, but the bobbin case is stationary. I hope the videos help you out. Good Luck.

@@andytubesewing1953 I was just getting ready to get back to you. I now know how to remove the bobbin case and was able to get that thread out, thank you! However, the rotary hook apparently isn’t moving as the needle isn’t getting threaded. I saw another comment from someone having this problem and am now looking at your 2+ hour video “How to replace the top gear on the vertical shaft” at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M3bFtlV1Y6s.html . I am not an engineer and am wondering if this will be over my head, although your videos are extremely clear. So I’m assuming I should be able to do it with your detailed video, but please let me know if this might be too much for a novice. I’m only 20 minutes into it and with all the steps/parts, do you also show step-by-step how to put it all back together? (Haha, I’m sure you do, but thought I would double check since I am chatting with you.) BTW, your time making these videos and for answering all the questions, mine included, Is very appreciated - thank you so much!

@@mary-----6293 If you are able to use the tools I don't see why you couldn't do the work. In the comments are people saying they did it and had never done anything like it before but followed the directions. Youngish and oldish folks have done it. I'm not saying it will be a breeze, but it is a very doable repair. It takes me about 30 minutes, but I've done it a few times now. By removing the bottom cover you can see if the timing belt is moving when you turn the handwheel. or remove the arm cover and look down inside, under the arm shaft with a flashlight and see if the gear is broken or without teeth. The needle not picking up the bobbin thread can be a timing issue too, so be sure it is the gear before going too far. People have also told me they paid someone to do it, like a handyman, boy scout group, and even a shop class at the local high school did it for a class project. Having a family member or friend help makes it more fun. One Mom and her 13-year-old daughter wrote me that they had a blast and it cost $20; $10 for the machine at a thrift shop and $10 for the gear. If you look at the timeline below the video screen I have chapters marked that allow you to go to any particular section of the video. You can skim thru the video at double speed to get an idea of the whole process too. The longest journey begins with the first step and the work is very rewarding when you are finished. Maybe read some of the comments too.

what i mean is that the timing mark is in a diferent location to the normal singers.. so it was good to see this

@@MrThunk123 First about the timing marks. I have seen a small number of SInger Machines where the timing marks were set to spots other than the bottom of the lower busing, including one at the top of the upper bushing. I've never seen or heard of a Singer Model 531 Sewing Machine. I can not even find a picture of one. I can not find any documents whatsoever for it. ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-500+.html The Singer class 500 machines, Stylist 502 - 507- 513 - 533 - 514 - 518 - 538 - 534 - 543 shared mostly the same parts. If you feel your machine looked like one of these you can find the service manual here store.tandtrepair.com/sm-513.html use andy-h-yt coupon code for 20% off if you buy. I have worked on model 513 and it did not have an unusual timing mark setting. ru-vid.com/group/PLsCOZgzzaiKLELksv_-MWE7tiAuzOgQj0 I did find pictures of a NEW HOME model 531 and also a BROTHER 531 but the only SInger 531 has the complete model number of 531B-8BL and is an Industrial Sewing Machine Model. I'm sorry, Will I just can't help you with this one. 😢

First about the timing marks. I have seen a small number of SInger Machines where the timing marks were set to spots other than the bottom of the lower busing, including one at the top of the upper bushing. I've never seen or heard of a Singer Model 531 Sewing Machine. I can not even find a picture of one. I can not find any documents whatsoever for it. ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-500+.html The Singer class 500 machines, Stylist 502 - 507- 513 - 533 - 514 - 518 - 538 - 534 - 543 shared mostly the same parts. If you feel your machine looked like one of these you can find the service manual here store.tandtrepair.com/sm-513.html use andy-h-yt coupon code for 20% off if you buy. I have worked on model 513 and it did not have an unusual timing mark setting. ru-vid.com/group/PLsCOZgzzaiKLELksv_-MWE7tiAuzOgQj0 I did find pictures of a NEW HOME model 531 and also a BROTHER 531 but the only SInger 531 has the complete model number of 531B-8BL and is an Industrial Sewing Machine Model. I'm sorry, Will I just can't help you with this one. 😢

Andy, im soooooo sorry, i just realised its a 351 - just checked the machine to see what it says on the side… and does look rather simolar to the genie. Still very hard to find information about

@@MrThunk123 Oh, it's a 351 👀 Guessing it was made in France in the late 1970s. Never sold here in the USA so extremely difficult if not impossible to find documents, especially the Service Manual, here. None of the sources I use have any info whatsoever on model 351. No Joy from Andy Tube, sorry.

So it used to grab the thread before and just suddenly quit? Although most Singer machines have a method of timing the hook point to the needlepoint I've never found it on this model 237. In the service manual the only mention of timing is by setting the needle bar to the proper height and when that is accomplished the needle/hook is "in time". It has to do with the mechanics of this particular model compared to models with drive gears or timing belts. If you've lost timing you can verify the needle bar is still at the correct height and has not been pushed upward, like by a needle break or other hard happening. Be sure you are using the correct size needle, 15x1, and that the needle bar/clamp is lined up properly and did not get twisted to one side. Verify that the needle is inserted all the way up into the clamp. Differences of 1/16th inch will easily cause a timing loss. Clean the machine as instructed on page 54 of the Instruction Manual. Be sure to turn the latch and swing open the Shuttle Race Gate and brush any lint or debris out of the area. A nice oiling as shown in the manual is always a good idea. If you need a copy of the manual you can download it free from SInger Support at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=237 I always start by pulling out the needle thread and rethreading to be sure I did it properly. We have all spaced out and missed a step. BTW, when you say "doesn't grab the thread any more" I take that to mean you can not even raise up the bobbin thread thru the needle plate. If you mean that it is "skipping" some stitches that could be another problem besides all that I mentioned.

@@andytubesewing1953 dear Andy Thank you very much for this detailed answer. By does not grab the thread any more I guess it used to. I bought it from someone, she says it works but obviously it does not sew. I did change the needle thread it many times but it does not form the chain even though the thread is raised up from the bobin. I never had that problem. But I m used to berninas more than singers and I don't repair machines. I figured out it might be just of problem of hook timing but I m not an expert. I m gonna do all you said and see if it can work. I put singer brand needles. I let you know. Again thanks a lot

More importantly I forgot to tell you that it always cut the thread at some point.

@@kaylaimage3385 It's a good way to start troubleshooting and eliminating possible causes. Especially the cleaning. Very rare to have a timing issue with this model.

@@kaylaimage3385 YES! "more importantly" for sure 👀😄 "Always cut the thread" is quite different from "it doesn't grab the thread anymore". LOTS of possibilities for the cause of that. Just Google "sewing machine thread breaking" and you'll find plenty of things to check. I always enjoy the, "said it used to work" part. I mean, I used to be slim with plenty of hair, but... sigh. I will say I had one machine of this model that was very difficult to find a breaking thread on. It did not help my hair situation at all. After days of this and that I bought a Service Manual for it here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ and started checking all the factory settings. On page 8 I found directions for setting the distance of the needlepoint to the shuttle and when I checked, my needle was actually rubbing on the edge of the shuttle which caused the breaking. I reset the space to the recommended .010 inch and that solved the problem. A retired Singer repairman later told me it was a rare happenstance but he'd seen it a handful of times. He said he usually found a bent needle that caused the rubbing. I'm not saying this is your problem but making you aware of possibilities. When you get tired of fooling with it, find a nice Singer model 403A to sew on, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XvMTj5wVlJU.html or even a nice model 347/348. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5VrRLK7YZ-g.html Good luck, Kayla Image, and thanks for watching my channel.

Can't send photo

Your channel is amazing! Great work! Sheer patient and good hearted man. It's a tidious work what your videos suggest! Hats off to you dear!

So the model 298 was not originally sold in the USA, and I do not have parts or repair records for it. I have never worked on one either. I did find a free download of the original instruction manual which you can get here: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20298%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf I will say that with the dozens of different machines I have worked on a good cleaning solves 85% of the problems like you mention. If you can't clean the mechanical parts, at least download the instruction manual and follow the lubrication guide and put oil where it says to do so. If the parts are merely "stuck" with old, dried oil, cleaning or oiling can free up those parts and allow better or even normal movement. It may take hours/days for the old oil to loosen up. Using a hair dryer on low temperature can also help after putting oil on the machine. You can be a little generous with the oil and wipe up the excess after the machine starts working. Of course, I feel it is best to clean with a degreaser/cleaner like Krud Kutter to just get the 30 to 40 years of gunk out of the machine. If you feel something is broken or"jammed" that cleaning/oiling did not help it will be more difficult to repair. I'm sorry I have no experience with your model 298, but I have 400+ videos separated by model number, that you can browse thru to get some idea of cleaning and adjusting. You model has a hook more like model 237 and 301, but some of the other parts look very different to me. Here is the playlist page: ru-vid.com/show-UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public BTW, no one here in the US or Canada that I wrote and talked to had worked on a model 298 or had records for it.

I did not see a way to adjust the front-to-back position of the needle. There is a method of adjusting the parts below the needle plate if the needle is hitting part of the hook, and that was all I found. You can buy a copy of the Service Guide online here for $10: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-237-sewing-machine-service-manual-download/ As you mention, some vintage machines do have a way to position the needle in the plate, like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ri5sz9vHB6I.html The only adjustment I know of is the left-to-right for model 237. I will mention other things I have found as the cause of needle strikes on the needle plate. I'm not saying this is your problem, only mentioning them as an FYI. Wrong type of needle for the machine (uses Singer catalog 2020, also known as 15x1 size). Needle installed wrong. Bent Needle. Wrong or aftermarket needle plate being used. Bent needle bar. Needle bar installed incorrectly, ie: turned a little bit in the clamp that holds the needle in place. I have found all of these situations over the years. I suppose your whole needle bar vibrating bracket could be bent or out of position, but I don't know how that could have happened other than a bad drop of the machine. I will say that when I first started with these machines I had a similar problem of needle striking the plate and after trying various things I used an abrasive cord to enlarge the hole in the plate. It looked lopsided afterward, but sewed well and did not seem to affect stitch quality. I bought the cord here: shop.sew-classic.com/Abrasive-Cord-to-Smooth-Needle-Plate-Hole-Burrs-SCSE52.htm I think you could buy it at a hardware store also. Sorry, that's all I have for you.

Presser bar height setting for 237 and 239 is 7.366 to 7.62mm, .290 to .300 inch Both models adjust the same. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bRjfg2VaqP4.html playlist of 237 videos: ru-vid.com/group/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h A fully restored 239: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f8hsnrqpYUE.html