My 02' Blazer ZR2 8.5 10 bolt rear-end w/ 300k miles runs & looks amazing. However, I had a light wheel bearing sound at 25 mph. I found out it's my pinion bearing. It's not leaking, loose & the inside has the G80 locker. Very clean inside that rear-end. Thanks for explaining this. I was thinking of fixing it myself, but a local shop will do it for $400 if I buy the Master Bearing Kit. I just need to research. I hear mine was an order option for that G80 locker. They also said they would install a rebuilt 5.3 v8 warrantied engine for $1600 total, but my 4.3 Vortec runs like new. I'm still getting the sticker 16 to 17mpg w/ AC on.
Took me 4 months because of wrong parts delays etc. Almost done, maybe not perfect but i know it will be better than the cheating mechanic that was my last time repaired. Nice video 👍
I watched so many of the videos and this was the most relatable, for me, and I’ve been under my truck everyday changing shims, checking patterns, checking lash, back to changing shims, F me… but this video gave me some incentive so thank you for that
Hey. I showed the wrong side on the pattern. That was a mistake on my part. I'm so used to looking up at the rear while it's in the car so just know that the side I showed the pattern is wrong. That was my mistake.
Ha! Don’t tell me that!! It’s all good, my pattern looks ok, backlash is at 8, my only concern is that I over-crushed the sleeve to around 30 on an 8.5 but that was with the seal in so I’m telling myself that maybe that created a little extra drag, just so that I can feel better about it, and forget about trying to find a crush sleeve on Long Island, they look at ya like you made it up. Thanks again though
So I just pulled everything apart, pain in the ass but it’s better than it was, I’m in between 15-20 in/lbs on an 8.5, it was a little over 10 and I wanted to get a little more so I gave it one more quick shot with my impact and it was a little over 15,, I’m hoping that should be ok. So my parents have a place in St. Pete Beach, I was there a few times, went to Filthy Phils and the Sloppy Pelican, and some other place. Thanks again for your help
good info. you had mentioned you want to change the caps. i thought the caps were to remain in the same place and stay with original housing?. do you have the strange part# for reference.
Using an aftermarket cap theu get machined for the housing. You are correct when using the original or used caps. Always mark them and don't swap from rear to rear.
IF the pinion depth is set to specs (taking into account the plus or minus number etched on the pinion) then the backlash will be correct with the carrier centred. To accomplish this install the carrier with two shims that allow slight side to side movement and then measure this movement with a dial gauge. remove and measure the two shims together and add the dial gauge reading. Then we need to add the side bearing preload, usually 7 to 10 thousandths. Divide the end number by two. This is the size of each of the two shims needed. The backlash will be correct. the gear contact will be good. The bearing preload will be good. Too much preload is a common mistake that causes failure. Assembling a differential properly requires tools to measure pinion depth, if done properly it is not a guessing game. Manufacturers are NOT guessing when they assemble these and anyone that is guessing is not doing it properly.
I feel your pain brother same place same thing and putting grease and bearings probably is a great idea every time I go to check the torque and the backlash they get tighter and tighter and tighter
