Setting Batter Boards Running String Line 🚧 Building A Workshop 

I appreciate the kind words. Always appreciate additional tips. They help out everyone.

20 years used to seem like a long time. . .

yes, much appreciated sir. great work explaining everything

Love the enthusiasm!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad to hear it!

Great to hear! Good luck on your build.

You're very welcome!

Glad it helped.

My pleasure!

Good luck!

Thanks!

No problem 👍

As cool as the other side of the pillow. 🙃

Thanks a lot

No problem

Thank you Mr. Barry. It does take a certain amount of patience.

@@simplyeasydiy Who's Mr Barry? i thought we were friends, and my friends call me Barry without the Mr bit. ha ha ha. Barry (ENG)

You are so kind

No, it is not an issue. Why would it not be an issue? Because you already know what your diagonal measurement should be and you are checking that measurement on multiple occasions. The pins are for visual reference. The tape measure has the final say.

Thanks!

Thanks

It's actually not different at all. Pier and beam systems are the preferred foundation on slopped ground. You see buildings with piers a foot tall on one side and 4 feet tall on the opposite side. Don't get distracted by how level or slopped the ground is. Only two things matter. Footer 12 inches below frost line and the top of each pier level.

I'm assuming you are talking about a continuous footer on a slope? If the grade cannot be leveled or it is cost prohibitive to level the site out then you would use "step footers". In that instance you take more from the high point and less from the low point until you get to your step. Then you start all over again. However, all of the footer must be the required depth called for by code in your area. I live in Florida and we always level the grade. Step footers are rarely used here.

Gotcha. Yeah It’s only 100 sq meters 10x10 it shouldn’t be to costly . Thanks a mil bud

If your frost line is 32" then according to the code in my area the footer would need to be 44" deep. Code here is 12" below the frost line. You would need to verify if it is the same in your area. Rebar in footers are code as well. I have a video on footers that was posted just after this one. Check it out. Good Luck.

If you wanted piers that were 4 blocks high instead of one like I did, you would just calculate the height of those four blocks with mortar lines and set your batter boards at that height. As far as keeping critters out from under the building use skirting of your choice. Always maintain airflow under the building. So don't fill the space under the floor with garbage and other nonsense. If you use a solid material like sheet metal instead of a lattice style skirting cut vents in the skirting every 8 feet or so.

Sill plates are pressure treated 2x8's. Floor and Rim joists are 2x10's

Huepar. I have not had an issues with it. Been on countless job sites over the years.

If you're talking about one like what I have in this video I wouldn't buy one if you only have a few projects to do. Their are other methods of leveling that are just as accurate without laying out several hundred dollars. Get a line level set and be done.

I don't remember the brand name off hand. It's been with me for awhile. I don't recommend spending the money for laser levels for the basic homeowner that may only use it a couple times at most. String bubble levels are fine for small projects like she sheds. Good luck and enjoy the build process.

@@simplyeasydiy thank for taking the time and sharing that information. So yes I've been very successful so far with a string, line bubble and a 4' level

If you watch the next video in the series that may answer your question.

@simplyeasydiy I did end up watching them all and yeah, it was answered. 😄

Do whatever works for you.

This is a good question. A lot of You tubers will tell you that every step in the construction process must be perfect. Everything must be "Plumb, square and true" at every step in order for it to be right. I think they do this in order to maintain a majestic quality to their content and the industry. In reality no wall is plumb and no corner is 90 degrees. In reality, every step, from laying out the foundation to doing the finishing work is a honing process. Every step should get you closer to a square building. The pins are not the end all, be all step for a square building. Should they be as straight and secure as possible? Yes. Will your building be something out of a Dr. Seuss book if they are a quarter bubble off plumb? No. If you are off a little here you can still bring it back in line when you set the piers and again when the sill plates go on. In fact you could be perfect here only to be off after you set the sill plates.

@@simplyeasydiy Thank you for your reply and insight. I am and have been trying to set out a concrete pad for a shed over the last week. I stuffed up my string lines I thought I had them right but didn't go back and check all the measurements of the actual width and length. I moved my strings too much and thought I had it right due to the diagonal measurement being the same. Pegged in all my boxing yesterday only to realise it's 80mm larger on one end. So now I have to undo it all and set out again. It's been so frustrating.

Hammer on my hand😂

Couldn't find my big hammer. I didn't have a workshop.