From someone who's never seen the internals of a house built, this was an interesting video. I hope you'll have more videos of your work on this bungalow in future. It will be interesting to see the walls, cupboards etc take shape.
Hi there🖐Its easy for us guys to forget that not everyone know what goes into building houses, so its cool for me that you found the video interesting🤩There will be more videos of this project as it progresses 👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks, Del. FYI, I started out watching. guitar building videos, then started watching wood workers as well, and now I'm also subscribed to three carpenters in three different parts of the world (one in the US, one in New Zealand, and you in the UK). I look forward to your videos as much as I do any of the other channels I'm subscribed to.
Great video Del , just always check that your lay out drawn is not a photo copy, can't scale off them , I run my sole plates through the door opes and cut out later gives you a chance to move things around if needed, good to see you thinking about other trades 👍☘️🇮🇪👏🤟
Hi John🖐Fortunately this drawing was to scale, but it also has a handy scale printed on it so you can check the scale is correct if the drawing has altered due to copying👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi John🖐Its always hard to know whether to do longer videos or shorter ones🤔Ultimately, I couldn't have made this video much shorter, and I prefer it to be in one part, rather than a few👊Thanks for watching and your great comment😎Cheers Del
Don't worry about the video length Del, that 30 minutes flew by :) Keep up the good work, as a Chippie in Aus it's always nice to see how things are done elsewhere. We say Noggins here, Kiwis say Dwangs like the Scots. Cheers, Will.
Really appreciate you watching Will🤗Always really cool for me to know that fellow carpenters are watching, and especially cool when you come from different parts of the world😎Cheers Del
Del - When setting out and using the chalk line I find a piece of roofing batten, overcut between joist and floor, v cut the bottom of the batten, and a screw further up to take the end of my line. Wedge the batten between floor/ joist.
This reminds me of doing Rondo stud walls. Light weight metal wall and ceiling systems. We mostly use on commercial jobs. Shoot the base track on laser up the head track. Twist in the studs and crimp in place. The title of your channel puts you at an advantage using this method. My channel would have to be short arse Carpenter. You imagine every stud you put in you have to get on a hop up or climb a ladder. You wouldn't need to go to step training at the gym. It just isn't viable especially in your 60's. As you are upgrading your laser collection consider another one. I do a lot of glazed tiling and use a square set out laser these days instead of the old 345. Now when laying out frames I grab that. In combination with my line laser I can project a perfect 90 off any wall. Good to see a man happy in his work though and in shorts. The weather must be looking up.
Hi Dave🖐Yes, being tall does have some advantages😎I absolutely need to get a 90 degree laser, as like you say, perfect for setting stud walls👊(and glazed tiles😆) Weather is pretty decent now🤔well, decent enough for shorts anyway😝Thanks for your great comment😎Cheers Del
Defo knocking up frames is better on the body . Soul plate down then individual frames. Obv check stud sizes but even if floor is 50m out in places a few double wedges will keep it good all that walking back and forth to pick up 1 stud at a time is thing of past . Esp if working solo . Frames defo easier on body
I suppose its what you get used to, and I find bending down nailing studs to a top and bottom plate harder on my back than nailing each one individually👍As with a lot of carpentry jobs, there's usually more than one way to do it👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Good video del do you not like using express nails on sole plate just asking wasnt saying your fixing method wasnt good just wondering thats all keep videos coming they are great pal😀
I think Express nails are awesome Mark, but I tend to stick to fixings I can remove, just in case, as does happen, I have to make an alteration, or get something wrong😬 You have definitely reminded me to get some more on my van though👊Thanks for watching and your comment😎Cheers Del
More than one way to skin a cat as they say......Have done many many many Internal /External (Timber Frame) studwork walls they are all similar one way or another have found the best way over the years to knock up the partitions like a frame and tack them up in position saves the up and down and saves many hours of work and wear and tear on the Body/Knees/Back over time. Once you have marked out the floor fix bottom rail and use level to plumb up each end. CLS (Canadian Lumber Stock) is pretty straight but still give them a quick look to make sure all going same way. use the not so straight ones for short Nogs or Dwangs. Can even add extra studs to catch plasterboard before you put frame up can make life easier. Like I have said more than one way to skin a cat as they say...Looking good Del.
Hi Dick🖐I know the method you describe is widely used, but there's several reasons I don't do like that on new builds, and the main one is the floor is just roughly laid, oversite concrete, and can be up and down by as much as an inch. If I was to make all the walls on the floor, they would have to be to the highest point of the floor, which would then mean that all the places where the floor was lower, wouldn't touch the ceiling, and would need packing at either the top or bottom before being fixed. Perhaps it's not that big a deal go round and do this, but I've never tried, and maybe I'm just set in my ways😆I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Yes you are correct the floor can be out an inch in places we would allow for that depending on size of room maybe cut half of room in one size and the other half larger size (depending how bad it can be of course). Have seen floors an inch out on first floor 4 bedroom houses (how that happen ask the bricklayer on brick/block houses). Have seen the ground floor 6 inches out al over the house that was in Horsham, South of England (a story for another day). As per your "Nom De Plume" ...."The Tall Carpenter" you can reach the top Rail for fixing no problem I am 6 feet odds myself. However you have to bend down as well at every stud to cheat/skew nail that is extra wear and tear on Back and Knees. I have set up a bench in the past using carpenters stools nailing studwork all at same level. .....It is like making a loft hatch for the attic ...I have seen guys jump up and down of their Carpenters stools about 20 to 30 times to make the hatch and add Hatch lining /Architraves /Stops/Facings one at a time.....Make it all on the deck /floor/bench with Hatch lining /Architraves /Stops/Facings/Plywood fitted jump up once and nail/screw once saves time and far better job at the end of day. We used to plasterboard ceilings before studwork went up many eons ago all part of our job at the time. With price of timber now wonder they do not go back to that method. Job is looking good Del.
@@dickdoc3337 You make some really good points about getting set up in a way that minimises the stress and wear on the body, whilst working, and too many of us, especially when we are younger, just let our bodies take the punishment. It's not until you get older, that you realise you've worn yourself out unnecessarily, mostly because you've been to lazy or in too much of a hurry, to get set up as you describe. Great comment👍
I only ever make frames up and stand them like you Dick Doc . Nip round with a length of cls and check the ceiling height everywhere. If it is within half an inch cut all the uprights to the tightest point. If it it really badly out cut a walls worth of uprights at a time. It used to be a NHBC reg (never seen it enforced and I think now removed from book) that stud walls shouldn't be tight to the ceiling to prevent the lightweight studding becoming loadbearing and transferring roof load down to 1st floor joists.
@@stevehallam6495 Hi Steve🖐We had a building inspector that specifically looked for gaps between the end of the studs and the underside of the top plate, as he said they see a lot walls where the studs have all been cut to the same size, and where the floor level changed, the top plate was just hammered up to the ceiling chord leaving a gap. I know most people do it the way you describe👍Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Great work again del! Precise to the point. I always learned that you could hammer in those fischer plugs full, as we call them nailing plugs but then not in english of course but in dutch. Or are these 10 mil different types? Always inspired by your enthousiasm mate!
@@thetallcarpenter great to know, I always hate removing those nailplugs because of the crappy philips heads but enjoyed hammering them in (mainly when I still was an electrician (or sparky in your world?)). have a great week !
Another problem with concrete screws is if the holes not in the exact position you want you can’t tap the timber one way or another then tighten it up like you can with a plug
Great video for setting out, plus everyone makes mistakes and you're not afraid to show it. You didn't show us how you plum the top plate of the stud wall...
Do you mark the sole plate and your top plate then go to the marks? Just wondering what you would do if the first stud against the wall is out of plumb then all your marks are out that same amount. Also, do you measure each stud in case floor/joists/trusses are out of level
Hi Dan🖐I have gone into detail in other videos, but I do measure each stud individually to accommodate a out of level floor, and I mark the bottom plate at 400mm centre's on the bottom plate, and plumb up the first one from the external wall to the top plate, and then mark 400's from that, so it doesn't matter in the block wall is out of plumb👊Cheers Del
Mark your first stud 390 instead of 400 or 590 if your using 600 centres allowing for 10mm if the blockwork is out slightly, make sure your first stud is bang on level then mark the rest of that first stud. Mark your stud on your headplate on the marks then cut 2mm above the Mark giving you a snug fit so it doesn't move around as your trying to nail it. Great video BTW!
@@bmxerboynathan Hi Nathan🖐We are on the same wavelength, and I actually mark my floor plate out at 430, 830,1230,1630 etc. The timber is 38mm thick so it leaves the first stud 10mm further away from the wall to allow it to be out of plumb, which is not too much as the dot and dab plasterboard is about 30mm thick👍 I then work away from the external wall pulling my studs to the line which is facing me, and then nail it up. Being tall, I am able to place the stud against the top plate and mark it with my pencil, and as you suggest, I just leave the line showing when I make the cut, and the studs holds in a treat as you nail it💪 Thanks for your comment bud
Hi Paul🖐We fit out plasteboard vertically, so noggin position isn't critical as long as its somewhere near the middle👊I keep my noggins no higher than 1100mm from finished floor, as they wont then get in the way of any of the light switches that should be 1200mm to their top edge👍Cheers Del
Wondering if you’ve checked level on your new red 12v laser? I’ve had 2 now and both have been 4mm off checking about 1m in from each end of the beam on the level line, whereas my old 3year old 20 odd thousand mile travelled dw088k is spot bollock on.
Hi Glen🖐Funny you should say that, as I HAVE actually checked it for level, AND against my old faithful DW088😎Reason being, my mate bought one and, like you found, it was out from the factory😬Great comment and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
How long do the blades tend to last ya when we doin studs we butt all the studs up agains the wall and cut throu them all at once what ya have to do to make money on site 😂
Hi Aaron🖐The 40t blades tend to last for ages in my chop saw, and I know you boys have to get things done the quickest way possible on site👊Thanks for watching and your comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter love the vids need a van tour go round with a stick and get the average hight then ya chopping 100 lengths and the 4.8 for soleplate and the heads chop doors out afterwards
Great video. Very informative and well presented. Love your work ethic and consideration for other. We recently moved to a timber framed house with brickwork outer. The transfer of noise between rooms and floors is amazing. Shame they didn’t use noise insulation when they built the house. Can I ask a question regarding timber framed partition walls. We intend to remove one between the kitchen and dinning room to extend the kitchen. I think the wall is load bearing. How are these type of timber framed walls normally constructed. Will I need an RSG to carry the load?
Hi there🖐I wouldn't dare try and assume how you might support the wall/structure above any walls you might be thinking of removing without first seeing the job👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Referring to 2x4's [which are at best 1.5"x3.5" as 'timber,' is a bit of a stretch. 'Sticks' are more like it. Timbers are not dimensional lumber bought from Home Depot's or Lowes. Timber is more substantial cuts or logs used in framing, as can be found in old barns from the 19th or early 20th century, where joinery was a craft. Timber structures are solid buildings, stick built is another species. A hurricane knows the difference. My prejudice if you will.
Great work. Your fisher fixings Del. Normally they are hammered in? Are these a normal thread. Nevertheless brilliant. I've done tons of studs over the years. We used to mark doorways and openings on the sole plates cut half way and this allowed for true runs this was sawn timber. Also we would set the corners back for a plaster board but nowadays this isn't done.. 👍
I'm a Brit in Canada and during these winter days of -36C have been watching a few of your videos. You are imparting years of knowledge! One of the best teaching carpentry channels! Thank you.
Hi Rich🖐I've got a buddy who moved to Calgary many years ago, and he often tells me of how cold it gets over there 🥶Appreciate you watching and thanks for your kind comments🫡Cheers Del
Hi Keith🖐I would be VERY careful drilling into the screed/floor if it had UFH in it😶I've just studded out a bungalow with UFH and was ASSURED by the builder/plumber that the screed was 80mm thick meaning I could drill about 50mm into it without hitting a pipe. I did this by setting the depth stop on my sds drill and using EXACTLY the right size plugs and screws. If I was in anyway unsure, I would just 'stick' the floor plates down with high performance adhesive or PU adhesive👍Cheers Del
Another great video Derek..really do appreciate the time and effort your putting in on these videos..great insight to setting out a new build..something I prob won't ever do but its always great to see the expert at work..do you have a model number for that bosch meter?
Hi Arthur🖐I appreciate your comment, as it really does take a lot of time and lost earnings to make these videos😮 The laser measure is the Bosch GLM 50c👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi, suppose the walls were not full height and so you didn't have any solid ceiling to fix the stud head plate to, how would you restrain the head of the studs?
I started using a nog stick a few weeks ago after a fellow chippy said about it, definatly looks alot better on the end product when you look along them, all straight and not tipping. Great work as always really enjoy watching your videos always inspires me. Thanks
Del, first things first, your videos can never be too long. Keep them coming. Great set out mate. A whole morning planning and fixing the floor plates and then flew through the top plates and studs. Do you have any tips for stopping the studs jumping when you nail the top and bottom. I often risk the foot clamp on the opposite side and hop to Christ I get the right angle with the nail gun🤣🤣🙈
Hi Paul🖐I should have put more details in, but I was keen not to repeat things I've already done in other videos, plus, tge video was starting to get really long😵I Mark the studs by putting them against the head plate and putting pencil across them, I then leave the pencil line on when I cut them which makes them just long enough to stay in place as I nail them👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, as a joiner myself who does more or less the same work as you on a daily basis I salute you sir! Its great to see a man who takes pride in his work, keep the vids coming, Jamie from Glasgow
I appreciate your comment Jamie🤗and its always really cool to know that fellow carpenters are watching, and were all, pretty much, doing it same ways👊Cheers Del
Hi Raymond🖐Like every job bud, carpentry has its highs and its lows, and no one every videos working of crap jobs with rubbish materials for ungrateful customers who end up not paying you🤔Thanks for your kind words and for watching😎Cheers Del
Del, not sure if I missed it in the video but how do you make sure the header is bang on straight above the floor plate with this method? Good work mate 👌🏻
Hi Matt🖐Yes, I didn't make it clear in this video😬 Well, I did, but I cut the bit of video of me explaining it, and put it in a short video featuring the laser detector I use to help line up my laser with the bottom plate which throws a line up onto the truss bottom chords for me to fix my head plate on👍I guess I was a little worried that I was repeating, in this video, details that are already in previous videos🤔Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Bud🖐Its mostly down to knowing where the rooms are so they can be set out for each under floor heating zone, but also, (not in this particular case), some building control officers don't like the partitioning built on top of a screed that is laid on top of insulation🤔Thanks for watching and your comment😎Cheers Del
@@Bud-vd2xd Yes Bud👍 I would get 3m studs in this case, and then put a row of noggins in just above the finished floor level to take the bottom of the plasterboard. I have been asked by builders in the past to put down a quadrupole floor plate, to make up for the insulation and screed, because they didn't want to get me 3m studs😮 It was ridiculous and the shrinkage alone in all those floor plates would have caused all kinds of cracking🤯Cheers Del
Great job. Is there any reason you don't use treated lumber for your bottom plate instead of adding the dpc to it? Is it a coast saving thing or is it just how its done over there? Also a great tip for holding a chalk line down on a concrete slab when working alone is to use a 1 inch drywall screw hammered into the slab and hooking the chalk line onto that. I find the 1 inch drywall screws work best for that because they are really hard and much sharper then masonry nails and require less fuss to tap in. Try it out sometime.
Hi there🖐Even if we used treated timber, the building inspector would STILL want to see a DPC under the bottom plate🤔I'm gonna check out the 1" drywall screw into the floor next time as I have a few on the van👊Thanks for your comment and for watching😎Cheers Del
Hiya Del super cool studwork video as it really helps setting out me studs , so please keep them coming GL&HB coming from Dulwich London England(✌PEACE✌)
Really rather good....👍😀Btw Del, Scott Brown has a really good vid showing how he adjusts the wall studs once in place to eliminate any bowing in or out. And Clever Clevett has a vid showing how he lines all the studs up to account for 'crowning' before he fixes them in. Both worth a watch for any DIYer.
Hi Matt🖐You couldn't see in this video, but I look down every stud and place all the 'bows' the same way in the wall. Ant really bad ones get put to one side and chopped up for door heads or noggins👊I'm pretty lucky as I use a timber supplier that only stocks decent, straight timber🤩Thanks for your comment bud, and for watching😎Cheers Del
Nice work Del, nice to see a chippy checking for square on short studs, tilers will love you😁. I love the bosch distance measure, do you use it for stud heights or tape them, wondering if it's accurate 🤔. I was taught run the sole plates tru doors , but I do it like you now leave them out and follow chalk lines. Lot easier. I wish I had your height for nailing studs to heads🙄🤣🤣. Great video keep them coming 👍
Hi Paul🖐Being tall, I am able to put the stud against the top plate and mark it directly with a pencil, which is fast and accurate👊Thanks for watching bud and your comment😎Cheers Del
Nice video Del! Liked your little stick to mark your noggin height and help shoot off into position! How many days did it take you to Frame all this up?
Hi! What's the reasoning behind putting the roof trusses on before raising the internal walls? Wouldn't it be easier to nail them on the ground and stand them up?
Hi Jens🖐 The concrete floor is just rough cast, and not particularly level/flat, so I find it easier to cut each stud individually before fitting👍Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
Great question Alan🤗This plan is, I think, a structural plan, so I just measure straight from it onto the building. I have done jobs before, where the plan dimensions are more critical, and in these cases, I'll find out the finished wall make up, and allow exactly for it👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi I'm about to build a stud wall in my house 4m long, how do you make sure the chalk line/laser line is 100% straight? So if I was to build a wall of it everything would be square and straight.
Hi Lewis🖐Just keep the chalk line pulled nice and tight and it will always mark a straight line👍Use a square like the one in the video or do the '345' trick off the straight line to keep and walls coming off it at perfect 90°👊Cheers Del
Wondering if you’d travel to Bournemouth to build my timber garage. I watched your playlist last year of the garage you built. I think I’m going to have similar problems with levelling the structure as the moron who poured my slab made a right mess. What areas do you cover??
What lengths of timber would be a good use of materials. My garage will be 6m x 7m and 2.4m to the eaves. I read somewhere that 14 lengths per 10 foot but it didn’t specifically say the length. I want to avoid wastage as timber is costly at the moment. 60 x 3m or 3.6m or longer 🤷🏽♂️
Hi Tom🖐Being tall has its advantages, one of which is have an 8 foot reach😝 I'm sure someone must make foot long pencils😆Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
I wont be selling the noggin stick direct Mark, but am planning on selling people the drawings with the dimensions on so they can make one themselves😆(I know what your thinking, where do I send my money🤣)Cheers Del
Hi Sadaqat🖐I actually prefer to cut and fit tge studs individually, as making the panels on the floor is a lot of bending down/kneeling😬(my poor old knees are worn out😵) Thanks for watching bud and have a nice weekend 😎 Cheers Del
hi Dell great work mate, not sure if you do it already but at the ends of my studs where it meets another atud wall square to it I leave a 15mm gap so the plasterboard can slide through !
Hi Brit🖐That's amazing that you that bud, as that's exactly what I used to do🤯 I stopped doing it as the tackers preferred to work out from the internal corners😵💫Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Great vid as always - followed your guidance to rebuild my own stud work upstairs (had paramount board originally) and couldn't be more pleased with the result! Mine took about 3 weeks to finish though; measure 861 times - cut once! Thanks for all you do - keep 'em coming!
@@thetallcarpenter Any chance you do work in Grantham for fitting some Deanta doors?! I have 3 custom size doors that need fitting in addition to another half dozen standard ones!
Something I like to do to strengthen openings and probably overkill is build the opening to accommodate an additional stud either side. Theirs then a stud supporting the door head and above the door head to the head plate. Also gives extra rigidity and more fixing for linings
That method's only used in the UK when it's a load bearing wall. Usually in full timber builds. Would be overkill in this build as the blocks are supporting the roof.
I never work on price Neil, despite the opportunity it gives you to earn more money than on day work. I know my customers/builders are getting their jobs done cheap, but its how I prefer it👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
