To get that right on you need to pull the spark advance down one notch. That’s the way Henry timed them back in the day. And you will never have to worry about that kicking back if you go to hand crank it.
Love the Model A segments! For the Corvair? I’ve never had the opportunity to see one disassembled, that would be fascinating to watch. In any event, thank you!
That quirky Corvair engine would be a blast to build up, and they must be getting fairly rare these days. At the very least, inspect it for hidden damage.
Kyle, at 1:55 .... As I remember, the firing sequence of the Model A is 1, 2, 4, 3 and thus you identified the third rotor contact as going to plug 3 rather than 4 and the fourth rotor contact to plug 3. Nice video though, keep'em coming.
I loved Corvairs. Rebuild it, start it up. and put it in a Corvair Monza, or even better find a Corvair Monza Spyder. I started college in 1965 and one of my buddies had one. We loved that thing, especially in the snow. Regards, Solomon
Use the plug in the cam cover. Drop it into the recess in the cam gear. Set the rotor to point at the #1 contact in the cap. This gets you close Adjust distributor for decent idle and power.
Tape the water ports when drilling out a broke stud , medal shavings will kill a water pump down the road , also after heating a stud and trying to use an easy out, try a little freon on the stud , heat expands medal and frees its rust weld , now freon will drink the stud and it will walk right out , it works
I also don't see these degrading, short of severe corrosion of the conductor itself, or some corrosion in the connection points that can be cleaned off.
I had a '64 Corvair Spyder (turbocharged) right out high school and it was a blast to drive, although the torso lag was tremendously late. Rebuild it to your specs and have a good time with it. Just a note, it will bolt up directly on a VW transaxle. We used to swap out the VW engine with the Corvair engine in our dune buggys.
Rebuild the corvair engine and put it in a dune buggy. A friend of mine had one back in the 70s. Those engines are very powerful for dune buggies, more so than the VW engine versions.
I've never seen a dismantled Corvair engine. Dismantle it and look for wear and tear. Once it's inspected, look into how to raise performance. With current technology, you could make it turbocharged with great power and reliability. It's how I would do it.
Please don’t destroy the flat six, just refurbish it and talk us through the process,maybe one day put in a beach buggy 👍 Or better yet sell it to me 🤞
You're probably experiencing a weak spark when you use the manual advance. Look at the rotor's location. It should be further on the number one post when the points open. Fun stuff isn't it?
Excuse the ignorance, as I recall, T's and A's both had on-the-fly timing adjustment on the column AKA spark and throttle. Wont this help emanate timing / pinging / pre detonation problems? My family had several when I was a kid, hard to recall years ago. Also, the corvair motor. You should talk to Tom Cotter, have him find another corvair that needs work and you, Davin, and Tom do a complete restoration OEM or restomod on it, using that engine after complete rebuild. Sweet!
Overhaul it and use it on a small homebuilt airplane. Unusual but fun. Plus, you could get a different group of viewer if you contact EAA aka Experimental Aircraft Association. They can vhook you up with local clubs or individual builders. On top of that you'll probably get a ride or 2 in a small airplane.
A build up in the Corvair motor would be very interesting. I have observed a number of air cooled VW rebuilds so it would be very I interesting to see the similarities and differences with the Corvair.
Take the corvair engine apart to diagnose any possible problems. Do not break the case. This engine is also simple. My engine is a 110 hp in a greenbrier van dlx. 1965 Good luck
Kyle, you do not have that engine timed correctly. You are reading the correct book but following the procedure incorrectly. This is a very common error. The TRAILING edge of the rotor needs to be exactly lined up with the pin for #1 plug. You have the LEADING edge there. Remember, you said yourself, the rotor is turning CCW. As you advance the spark lever, the spark will move up from the trailing edge toward the leading edge, the more you advance it. Do it again this way and it will run smoothly.
Dude that donk has a flat low profile, put it in a porches, build own superstructure with tunes or square tunes that fit within each other then put a gold colour bolt through the tubes. Don't weld. U can heat tubes a little to help bend then. Use laser system rented to perfectly square your superstructure. U can buy a cheap thrashed out factory race porches for 2k usd. Run some korea made Hancock's. 5 bolt, all just cheap stuff off counter, buy Ford parts where possible, only run Ford lifters and engine parts.
I just wish you would have road tested that Model A to make sure that it's timed right. I think you're right about giving it a little more advance than the book says., I believe they want over 50 bucks for that Les Andrews book at the local old car parts place. So that'll have to wait until we see automotive swap meets again. As for the Corvair engine, I'd get it running if possible and sell it to help finance the Model A rebuild.
good night, my name is Ricardo, I have a ford A year 29 I live in Campinas S.P Brazil I'm in doubt, can you help me? I need to check the point of the car's engine, remove the screw from the command cover and place the end of the screw in the hole in the command gear, which is the top dead center (I only know so far, and the rest) you can help me ?
Yes it can. Replace the 2 distributor drive shafts and eliminate half the slop. Replace the distributor drive gear (inside the valve chamber on the side, under the exhaust manifold) and eliminate the rest. No need to drive a Model A with this much slop in the rotor.
Blow it up with dynamite. Just kidding. Look into the advantages or disadvantages of installing a turbocharger. Those engines are notoriously underpowered. Thanks.
NEVER advance and engine by turning the fan, especially on an A. Also, get a distributor wrench from Mac's.....It's $15 and will make the job much easier. PS You're car is still not timed correctly. An A should idle smoothly with less than a quarter of advance. I noticed yours was all the way advanced and when you to the advance out of it it died.
You should replace that distributor with a modern mechanical and vacuum advance. Also, I'd love to see a series of super detailed rebuild videos on the corvair engine. Maybe put it in a VW.
I think if I remember corvair motors were rotory and they had a bunch of issues. I think block leaks was one. I suggest a total tear down to see what they look like and seal up like VWs are by shops now days.
The Corvair engine was an air cooled "boxer" 6 cylinder just like the 911 Porsche. It had hydraulic lifters and rockers like a Chevy Small Block. The first "Turbo Mufflers" come from turbocharged Corvairs.
Sorry, but you set the timing incorrectly and can lead to the crank handle kicking back if you have to hand start it. Also, you are giving the car too much advanced when you pull the handle all the way down.
