Just got a mec 600 jr mark v and a mec super sizer for $100. Couldn't find a great video till this. Been told my multiple people it only loads 2 3/4 but it loads all the way to a 3 1/2 which excites me. Just got to get a powder bushings and I'll get to loading some shells. Thanks for the awesome video
Thanks for the refresher. I have not done this in almost 20 years and it was a fantastic review to jog the ole brain to help my daughter set up hers for 28g. Cheers!
I was just given a shotshell loader like the one in the video. It was in pieces, but I think most of the parts are there. I am missing the two bottles on top of the loader. Your video has been very helpful.
the resizing ring a 1/4. the ram tube needs to be lowered a 1/4 if your using plastic one piece wads pressure indication is not really critical. Wad pressure is set by the spring in the front of the loader that the ram tube fits through. I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as its giving you a good seal on your wad and everything is fitting in the hull like its supposed to. if not lower it a little more
ok yes they are all red and my drop tube is plastic so i will replace them both, i hand loaded a few with my scales just to set it up all looks good crimp looks like factory, primer set is good, but deprimer/resizer every 5 or 6 shells will buckle the plastic just a 1'8 inch below the crimp and setin wad pressure how is that done properly thanks for the info already made my life easier
ok will try that thanks i did have a problem of hulls stickin but noticed it was the rod that pokes old primer out stickin in the hull i grinded that down a little now shells come off no problem
have you ever worked with a texan fw loader i need help on crimping stage because the final stage is two parts in one if i go down on one the other gets out of adjustment i damaged 6 hulls already hope you point me to the right direction thanks
Yes you can. Lead bars are anodized RED. Steel Shot Bars are anodized Black and are shot size dependent. Make sure you buy a bar coded 302 for a single stage loader. If your drop tube is steel your good to go if it is plastic you need the steel conversion kit. to change from 2-3/4 to 3 you need to raise the coloumb up 1/4" and make sure that you lower the first, second and third stages the same amount. you can by pass the first two by depriming resizing and repriming set up for 2-3/4
@jtclays This is an old mec jr that my dad bought in or around 1968 if you have an old jr as you said its not notched to recieve the Ubolt for the decapping punch. it used to have a straight bolt for the decapping punch but as I am sure you know resizing high brass shells the cam would catch the bolt on the side and bend it. So I got a dremmel grinder and made a notch in mine and converted it over it works like a champ.
Thank you so much, have 1973 16 gauge from yard sale.Couldn't get it to work right, followed you're instructions to the letter, I'm making absolutely beautiful 1oz 16 gauge high brass shells now. Thanks again you're the best. Clyde
Thanks, I was having a problem with my final crimp. I was crushing hulls. I didn't know the loader was threaded so the die was just hanging there. Your video helped a lot.
Go buy a lee load all, yea I know it's plastic but you will have some hair left after you start reloading. waste a box or two. But he is right it will take a box or two or 3 or 4 or maybe 5.
ok if your having issues depriming resizing. First off 3" is all going to be high brass and will give you grief. I used to keep a pair of needle nose pliars to pop the resized hull out of the sizing ring. but back to your issue. if you are buckling your hulls you will have to raise the coloumb up a 1/4 do this by removing the bolt and reinstalling it in the top hole. in the base of the loader. then you will have to space your priming ram down 1/4 lower the decapping punch a 1/4 and lower
If you have the MEC collet resizer you may not have that problem. I would rather have the high brass as I seem to have problems with the short brass occasionally getting snagged when closing the breach of my over and under. With the high brass, this part is already down inside the barrel as the breach closes.
Hello, I have a question regarding the Primer Seating Station. Tried seating a primer and it will not seat fully. Is there an adjustment for this? Thank you.
Well there is a lot of things I don’t know from your question. Really there is no adjustment are you set up for 3” shells? You may need a spacer under the primer seating cup or between the seating punch and the press
liked and subscribed, I got one of these today used, and I think it's a 600 jr 82-85, I think, under the primer punch on the base there's a tab that sticks out.. I assume that's to hold the tray to collect old primers. it only has the 8 point crimp, amd no hoppers. do you know where I could buy the hoppers and 6 point crimp?? thank you for your time in advance!
you can go to MEC website and order parts for the JR They will get you the new style crimp starter that in my opinion is better really it just doesn't look like it. The catch tray I just use an old cake pan to catch the spent primers.
I am having with my 600 Jr. I have some pictures showing the problem. The crimp is point down toward the base when I have loaded them. I have readjusted the prescription. This hasn't helped. Help please.
Most likely you don’t have the proper powder shot wad hull combination all 3 of those items must take up a specific amount of space in the hull, if you are sure this is all correct back the plunger on your final crimp station all the way out and see if this fixes the issue
Great video on the 600jr! Had to laugh when you mentioned the nitro cards and cushion wads. When I started loading in the early to mid 1960s, that's all there was. Then there was the plastic "H" wad that replaced the nitro card and finally the one-piece wad we know today. One tip I would add is when adjusting the cam at the final station, loosen the screw just enough to allow you to move the cam. Then hold the cam in place as you retighten the screw. My experience has been the cam wants to walk out of position as you tighten the screw if you don't. You are correct, it can be a little tedious setting the machine up, especially the final station. But once it's set up you should be able to load thousands of shells without any problems or issues. Any changes after the initial set up should only require a little tweak. Patience can be the most important tool in your kit.
I would suggest you could be experiencing a couple issues. First are you one hundred percent positive that you are only dropping 1 oz of shot? If I am not mistaken your bar should read 302 and 100 for a one oz lead bar if its steel shot your dropping 1 oz is a lot of shot and the pink wad will not work for it. Next thing to check is the final crimp loosen the socket head cap screw on the cam and move it up as high as it will go and try again. then slowly move it back down to get a good crimp.
Boy, did I need this. I picked up a loader a couple of months ago for a really good price but it was all out of adjustment. I got everything straightened out except the final crimp. After watching this it took about 5 minutes and a half a dozen shells to get it dialed in.
I find a little variability in the overall length of the empty hulls. Enough so that it causes variability in how well the crimp closes. Some crimps are fine, and others have the small hole in the middle. I overcame this by punching overshot discs out of discarded Tyvek envelopes and inserting them over the shot before crimping. That was enough to keep the shot locked in without having to worry about the hole. It's a great timesaver for me.
i bought a used 600 jr it was all set for 2 3/4 lead, i want 3'' with steel shot mostly #2, the shot bars and bushings are too small can i just buy a bigger shot bar and bushings and will it be all ok then, great video really helped set my loader up thanks
I inherited a pre 82 MEC 600 JR and used this video to help me see what was missing, and how to set it up. Got the parts ordered and have installed them. I'm testing it out now and so far I've adjusted station 1 correctly and will continue adjusting as I load. This has helped immensely! I very much appreciate this video.
I have an old Nick Jr I would like to know where some of these washers go cuz I am having trouble with my slide bar smoothly moving it seems like it wants to jam up when I go to slide it
One of the shortfalls of this reloaded is smaller shot wants to ride the charge bar and jam things up. Through years of using these loaders I’ve learned to slap the charge bar instead of gently pushing it. It works better for me. If you look at the newer bars you will see they have a rubber insert in them intended to help with this but in my opinion they don’t help much. Try slapping the charge bar from side to side not gently and see if that helps you
@@cdcropper You are correct sir. Occasionally, the bar wants to shear a pellet or two as you move the bar to drop the shot. I use the "slap" technique as well. And you are correct on the bars with the rubber insert as well. It helps some but not much.
Once you get the final crimping station adjusted, does it fit tight or can you wiggle it? Is there suppose to be play in it or should it be secure. I’m trying to set one up. Having a hard time with the final crimp.
Thanks a million for publishing something this thorough. Got my 600 Jr. secondhand and it was pretty much set up for the exact same hulls I intend to reload- but I wanted to see something like this just to be sure I was doing it right. Can you give me your opinion on casting lead shot? I have a #3 shot mold and have used nothing but the "tape" / sticky type wheel weights for the first batch. My question is whether you think this will be hard enough, or whether I'll need to cast the next batch using the clip on type wheel weights that contain the additional tin and antimony. Do you have any experience with this? Thanks again-
M. Pearson I've always bought my shot. It's pretty hard so I don't know if the soft lead will do what you want or not. I'm assuming you are casting buck shot. I don't use buck shot at all. It's not legal for hunting in Missouri so I wouldn't shoot enough of it to justify the mold
this video is super handy. I found a 600jr in the back of a local thrift store. it has a lot of surface rust but is fully functional just missing the drop tube and the shot hopper. but it needs to be completely dissassmbled cleaned and put back together and setup this has me on the right path thanks again!
