Setting up your Samick Sage Recurve from start to finish. Learn proper assembly, setup, stringing your recurve, adjusting brace height and shooting techniques. A great start for a great buy in a recurve bow.
What a GREAT video. 341.2k views at this point. My bow story started out in the early 70's. I was shooting nocks. After being away for awhile a couple of years ago I decided to get back into bows and wavered between a crossbow and a recurve. I chose the crossbow, of course. Oh, it's the gun of bows alright...but a complete boat anchor to haul around and negative minus 40 balance. I'm still pining for the recurve. Used to be around here there were bow specialists on every corner. All gone. So I see for under a couple of hundred bucks I can get a good (new)quality recurve and all the doodads. My wife will not be happy one of these days. Learned two new things...the twist and the three finger under method. What a GREAT video! Thanks, if you're still around. Neat! Gonna stash it away for the day.
@@goodlux777 Well sure Rob. Except unlike a gun there is no balance to 'em. Takes brute force or a real good prop to shoot the things for top accuracy.
Can I suggest you watch a few you tube videos of seasoned archers firing their arrows. Watch everything they do - how they stand, hold their bow, how far they draw back the arrow etc, and try to copy their habits. If you do, you will become an excellent archer!
I am new to using a recurve bow and is having problems putting the string on and looking for assistance and your video helped me more than anyone else's. Thanks so much for sharing this information with all of us new users.
he didnt say it but the string will have a loop that is bigger than the other and you want to put that end on your top limb so you can slide it down when your stringing
@@lpburke86 The sage I received a week ago sept. 22 has the B55 dacron string with one larger loop. I thought they sent the wrong one at only 58" long but now know it is supposed to be.
This was really helpful. We just bought two of these for our family (different draw weights) and we're all enjoying the bows. They came with virtually no information so your video really helped us out. Thanks! And +100 on recommending a bow stringer!
I found this video really informative, particuarly on how to install the limbs and string the bow. Very clear instructions. This is also the first I've heard of twisting the string, and what exactly brace height is and how to check it. I recently ordered a Samick Sage of my own after spending the better part of this year learning to shoot a cheaper, 25lb recurve, and I'm looking forward to seeing how well it performs in comparison.
You only twist the string IF you need to increase or decrease the brace height of the bow. Depending on string type it will also 'stretch' at first. It is not really stretching so much as it is 'tightening' up the twists allowing the string to lengthen. It usually takes several times of stringing and unstringing the bow the first couple dozen shots to get brace height set up. Good luck.
Thanks Brad. It appears by the tracking # that I will have my bow this Fri. Looking forward to using it with my son. I looked to see your other videos thinking that a novice like myself will get a lot out of. I see that you only have a few. I'll check back to see some future tutorials and product demos. Thanks!
Looking to purchase this bow for myself being a beginner and all. And I must say this was a highly informative and very satisfying video. Thank you very much!
Oswaldo Gutierrez Just as a tip, if you're a beginner - do not go by these poundage guidelines. 40-50 pound limbs for a beginner is just nuts. You need to be able to shoot ~70-100 arrows at a time, to enjoy the sport and not hurt yourself, go with a lower poundage draws weight. Limbs are pretty cheap so if you want to increase draw weight when your back muscles are used to it, it wont be expensive. If I would have started with 40-50 pounds draw weight, I would have only been able to shoot 10-15 arrows before losing form. That kills the enjoyment of shooting really.
"will you answer a question from 3 rivers archery?" Please see link... hahaha thank you for helping me refer people always asking the same basic questions!
Great video! I've taken lessons from 2 local archery ranges, and everybody seems to give slightly conflicting advice. I will have to ask them about the 3 under next time I practice.
New Neighbor here, I moved from Central Oklahoma to Far East Texas,. I pulled up your website to see where you are located at. I see it is a work in progress,. Anyhow, great video here my friend. Looking forward to seeing more from your company. I hope you have a blessed week my friend. (PS NEW SUB HERE) Dale
The bow is quite nice but the string is only so so, put on a more modern flemish twist in a better material and it made a big change. The rest didn't last long so I cleaned it off and put on a bear rest and now it shoots really smooth and quite. Even with the extra few bucks this bow shoots really nice.
i have ordered my 3rd bow " but first recurve bow 50lbs its a mongolian hunting/horse bow 50 lbs my feather arrows came today " my other 2 compound bows a junior vortex barnet 29lbs and my ASD pro hawk 75 lbs are cool bows but i eagerly await my delivery of my first recurve :) cool vid
if this is your first bow I would definitely, definitely recommend 35 pounds. this will help you immensely with properly practicing form and consistency when shooting. the muscle memory will develop with time and with the Sage you can get higher poundage limbs at that time. IMO anything above 35 for a new shooter is a bad idea
I think trying out different draw weight bows at a shop in person can be much better than online recommendations from anyone including your 35# recommendation. Doing this, a shop can set you up with the correct length arrows, arrow spine and field point weight as well for the bow that will work for you. For example I bought the 45# sage starting out completely new a month ago after trying out bows in a pro shop and it was a good starting weight for me; however, I'm 6'1" with an athletic build and 30" draw length so I can't speak for most. They also measured my actual draw weight at the 30 inches which was 48ish pounds with the bow I purchased.
What he says about putting the nock half an inch higher is very important. When I set mine up, I logically assumed that I'd nock an arrow, then use a square to square the arrow with the string, then put the nock above. This shot horribly, the arrow kicked way out as it flew and I didn't know what was going on at first.
Well presented good quality review and instructional video. Naysayers go ..........video shows all there is one needs to begin. Own several Samicks's. Very decent bows. Even Polaris does good job. And that comes from all life compound shooter! Go figure. Good review hands down!
Good video. However, I am consistently amazed at how people shoot and recommend to heavy a draw weight, either traditional or compound. Over twenty years ago I was shooting 50-60 lbs compound while others were shooting 70. Speed was the in thing and I watched them struggle while I enjoyed easily pulling back every time. Amazingly I had no problems ever killing deer, etc. Glad to see delusion still exists.
I hunt with a 110lb Horse Bow lol. Love punching heavy broadheads clean through the shoulders and out the other side. Makes tracking easy when they drop on the spot every time.
That is the exact bow that I got today. BUT like a fool I did get the 50lb..... probably should have gotten the 30 to 40. My arms are not as big as yours at all, and yours were shaking a bit. So I may order a different one tomorrow, let one of the kids (30 yr olds...haaa) have this one. But your instruction is greatly appreciated, sir.
you prolly dont give a damn but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Clay Hugo Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Thx very much for this informative vid. I have a 35# Sage coming. I'm coming from shooting spring air rifles, and definitely appreciate the importance of lighter cocking weight, particularly at first, in learning technique and increasing enjoyability of shooting.
Video is clear, but as mentioned a number of times in the comments - these "starter" bow weights are totaly wrong. Learn to shoot properly with a 30 - 35lb (less for a lady) and when accurate - then up the poundage. If you plan to hunt with it - get accurate first.
Nubian Emporer its different..try a 30# with a compound bow all that poundage is gone when you pull back..with a traditional bow you hold all the pounds depending on draw length.
I just started with a recurve takedown and I got a 28# my draw length is around 30 inches..so happy I didn't go higher in #..getting form is important..work your way up.
I started with a 45 lb as a first time adult Male, never wanted to admit I couldnt even draw fully to my anchor point. Been working out my back a lot, got into kayaking as well and still struggle to draw fully without straining pretty hard. So I stopped shooting it. Well now that I heard Ted nugent recommend that you start at an easier draw weight because archery shooting should be a fluid not strained, I got 30 lb easy limbs to practice with. I want the act of drawing an releasing to be easy. I'm not hunting anything any time soon anyway. I'm hoping that by actually practicing the full technique of shooting an arrow it will make it easier to move up to the 45 lb limbs I got initially.
Compound bows have let-off so you are not actually holding 55 lbs. with a recurve you are holding the entire draw weight (maybe more or less depending on your draw length) the entire time. Huge difference between the two. I run a 60 lbs. draw weight on my compound, but only a 45 lbs. on a recurve.
I'm 65 yrs old and been into archery for about 3 years now. My bow is around 40lbs pull weight, which for me is fine. At the end of a day's shooting the arms and shoulders can get quite tired and achy.
I’d start someone on a 25lb bow honestly. People are weak and will overcompensate for weakness with poor form which is even more week. Neat video. Got a 60# sammick sage when I was about 12 years old and shot the crap out of it. Now the riser is worn and has a small hairline crack, so I’m considering buying another one because it’s an awesome bow for the money.
Great video for basic introduction if thinking of buying Sage. It really is a quality bow for the price. Shoots nice, feels good in hand and looks beautiful too. But there are a couple of things in this video that might lead you wrong if buying this. It's about the bounds... I own two of this with a different bounds (25 and 30), with right and left handed ricers (I shoot both sides, something like 25% left and 75 % right. It's because have had shoulder issues from other sports so I can keep the muscle balance better this way). As my draw length is something like 29" right and +29" left, I can get more boundages out of the limbs. I have also noticed that the strength curve of this bow isn't linear, it's kind of "back thight". As tried 40# bow with a quality limbs that bow feeled similar at the end of draw as my 30# Samick does. In my opinnion and experience the limbs of Samick Sage are very sturdy and hard to draw at the end of your draw. Even with my 25# limbs I can shoot quite well longer distances too, because of this quality. So if this is your first bow to buy, I really recoomend to start with much lower poundages than told in this video. I even recommend you to do that weather you are muscular or not. The muscles needed when drawing a bow are very unike, I bet you have never before activated them same way. Get the prober technic right first with a lighter bow (especially hard for men to do this cause of ego etc) so you MIGHT avoid shoulder problems which are something I think allmost every archer will have at some point of theit carea. And one thing more: the string included the package is not that good. It's like a wire. So get a better string as soon as you know what kind of string (material, number of strains) is best for your draw. Ask someone make a one or buy one. I made mine and it's way better than the bulk included.
I like the video very informative great review. I would really like to buy this bow but my draw is 27", which from what I have read makes the bow to short for me. Can I still use this bow If I was to say get 40LBS limbs the extra draw length would just make the poundage more or is the bow just to small ?
The bow srtringers I have come across and indeed use, have a pocket on one end and a fairly large loop on the other. Also, they are made of webbing. The technique of stringing your bow using one of these bow stringers is slightly different to the method you use with yours. Perhaps, if you have one of these bow stringers, you could demonstrate. Also, once you've marked your nocking point for the arrow on the string (either with a bit of brass or with some dental floss), you will soon come to realize that this nocking point is not in the center of the string, meaning the string can only be put on the bow one way round if you wish to get the nocking point in the right place. To overcome this problem, I tie a small piece of colored thread onto the loop at one end as a reminder of which way around the string goes on my bow - usually the smaller loop which fits straight onto the nocking points of the bow. (A bowstring, as already mentioned, usually has one loop smaller than the other - this smaller loop goes on the bow first, over the nock at one end!). The larger loop is the one that goes on the other end using the stringer.
