I just learned about this third axis thing this winter while recovering from a couple of hand surgeries. Wish I would have known about it last winter so I could have checked mine before missing a huge bull at 52 yards down hill after waiting 20 years for the tag. I missed a smaller bull a couple years before that while shooting down hill. Both shots felt great and I could not understand why I shot right on both shots. I pulled my bow out and looked at the sight the other day and you can visually see how far off mine is. The bad thing is, my sight does not have a 3rd axis adjustment, and it is not a cheap sight. Time for a new sight!
What sight is it? Thats surprising. Black gold is amazing value and customer service for the price. Not crazy heavy but still plenty durable and brightest pins in the game. Ive been eyeing the CBE V3 vertical 3 pin but wanna see if its durable enough first
I’ve been running an older version of thy IQ Micro retina lock. It has been a great sight, very accurate. Most of my hunting is on fairly flat/rolling ground so I’ve never had that issue. I’m looking at the 2024 model B3 Archery Exact Rize Hunter with the 3 pin vertical scope. I’ve also looked at the same black gold. Hard to make a decision when there are so many quality sights.
@@codypursel332 if ya looking at that also take a look at the CBE trek V3 vertical 3 pin. Right around same price point and little easier features it might seem. I have yet to have either in hand tho. When i look it only comes up for 2 pin vertical B3 sight. The micro 3V also allows for micro adjust pins for the top and bottom pin. Middle pin is fixed which you would sight in first
My only question after watching this awesome video and thank you for the simple man explanation. when you are shooting, uphill or downhill I was taught to draw like flat ground and pivot at my hip up or down because if you draw your bow aiming up or aiming down it can change your anchor point slightly. Is that correct?🤘🏹
Asking for educational purposes. But if you adjust 3rd axis once for downhill then again for uphill wouldn’t that change the initial adjustment? Having a hard time grasping that part
Levi, I know you’ve done a bow build and arrow setup. But you’ve recently changed your brand of arrows. I’m new to the archery world and recently just bought a phase 4. Would it be possible to get a full hunting bow build. Bow, sight and arrow setup you use to hunt whitetail. Much love! Keep grinding and chasing the dream.
I do hit left uphill and right downhill, consistently. You said you can counter that with your 3rd axis…is it just a form and/or consistency thing or can I really do something with my 3rd axis to fix that? Assuming 1st and 2nd axis are perfect, 3rd should hit the same up and downhill right? But I’m definitely consistent left uphill and right downhill. Thanks!
When your third axis is off, your uphill vs. downhill shots will always hit opposite of each other. Uphill-left/downhill-right. OR. Uphill-right/downhill-left.
Agreed. You need to shoot your bow to get it right. I learned this back when you had to shim or do whatever. Sights and scopes weren’t even designed for this.
Do you adjust 3rd in your vice before you shoot it in? I rarely have to move it much while shooting. In fact, the adjustment is usually so small I go too far.
Theres a tool Hamskea makes thats good and gets it very close by doing the door jam trick. Its on MFJJ’s channel he shows how. Then recommends to check and do it outside at longer distance to get it dead on
@@Orr_s That's the one I use! And rather than watch a video I had Devin from Hamskea show me how to use it. Because I had the chance, not because MFJJ isn't correct. I haven't seen that vid.
So I have a question, and let me know if this is wrong and could you educate me on why/how it would be wrong? On my Mathews Lift 33 I adjust my 3rd axis using a square (carpentry speed square) and put it against the riser and slide it out until it touches the scope housing then adjust the scope housing until both sides of housing touch evenly against the square. To me if we are trying to get the level and sight square/matching the bow then that's a for sure way to get it perfectly square with the bow itself and take all the guess work and human error out of the equation. Thoughts?
The problem is that when you draw the bow back the tension on your cables increases greatly, pushing your cable guard to the left for a right handed shooter. Meaning that your riser isn’t perfectly square to the target at full draw. That’s why if you line up the string with the arrow when the bow is at rest and look at your sight pins they are usually slightly to the left of the string. So if you’re sight bubble is perfectly square when the bow is at rest it won’t be at full draw.
Mike is totally right. You're method will get you close but you have to sight in 3rd axis drawing back for the reasons Mike said and also make sure you have all your weight you'd usually run( or quiver) because it will change it as well.
As no one is a perfect shoot, isn't it better to ajust it with a 3 axis Leveler like a Brite Site? You know everything is leveled. Shooting uphill or downhill, they might be a leveling issue that you might want to not shoot your bubble in the middle.. bubble in or out of the shot... just asking not hating here! I'm no Levi here! ✌️👌👍👊🎯♥️
The brite site jig would get it perfectly leveled BUT like you said, no one shoots perfect so since everyone torques the bow in some way, shape or form, it’s best to “shoot in” your third axis like they’re doing in this video. That way the third axis is essentially “tuned” specifically for you and whatever torque you put on your bow from something as simple as hand pressure.
@pos.tanker.yanker I see what you mean, personally I rather go the way that the bow is perfectly tuned. If I miss a shot, the problem is behind the bow and improving my technique.. my bow is out of wack as we dont have any good bow techs here. My vanes ares hitting the arrow rest.. I corrected my sight to make good shots, but the problem is the tune..
The Brite site will get you close but to be perfect you need to draw. When you draw the bow you and the cables are imputing torque and load into the riser which in turn moves the sight. While on flat level ground, it doesn’t affect the level. But uneven ground, you fight it back to being level which cants the bow making you miss left or right.
@velasquez8 nahh if the bow is tuned right, the strings are not an issue .. anyway, you seem passionate about shooting bows . So am I! Long live the shot!
@mayhem035 it def does add torque to the riser. That's exactly why the 13 world champion shooter in this video said to get it perfect you can't do it in the shop and have to do it drawing back because it changes. For sure he can tune a bow perfect and is saying that as well. It's just physics. You are totally correct though about the most important thing is improving technique. Many people have bad technique and can't even see the difference here to even shoot good enough to fix it. Good luck in the woods this and and on the course my guy.
