Thank you for giving us this free valuable lesson many are sitting on school writing an essay of paying thousands of dollars. Taking it up to the 7th course we go the main point especially if you are a GC like myself
Those look like some very well made block. I have seen some that your level would wobble on top of. Very hard to build a decent wall with trash like that but we did it every day. Good job. Good trowel, W. Rose always made the best. I also prefer the leather wrapped handle.
Nice to see you are using a Stabila Level from Germany 🇩🇪😊 Does she like your freedom units? She is only familiar to meters and centimeters. At least rectangular angles are also 90 deg in the US. 😅
Overall good information but I would like to see a better head joint. Many masons will have a full head joint then ruin it by sliding it down. This removes most of it. A better way is to push into block because it compacts the mortar fully without dropping down. Just something I have learned over the years and wish I was taught that in the beginning.
Yes i wish some would tought me that but recently i was laying block with a old school so he schooled me on that cause i would leave gaps and double work went i had to joint and refill them
@@bradmason8334 Rebar every 24 inches filled core. From footing to the top. Bond beam every 4 feet in height with a bond beam at the bottom and at the top. Durawall in the bed joints every 16 inches. If possible plaster/stucco one side of block to reinforce the entire wall. This is for extreme conditions and obviously have temporary supports until all is cured.
Thanks! Do you have to fill in the head gaps, for each level ? before the next level goes up. There is a hollow there I see, so wondering does that need filling also ? And secondly, would it be a good idea to fill the cavities of each block with mortar, or just a waste ? (have seen the vertical rebar cavities filled, but asking if its good practice regardless of rebar or not for overall strength ? Thanks again
It is common, especially in commercial construction, to run a vertical cell full of grout with rebar at prescribed intervals. In prisons they often pour every cell.
It can be made in such a way that a brick wall can be tied to the block wall. That type wire has loops on short wire that sticks out the side of the block. Another type wire is inserted in the loop and laid into the brick as you build that wall. Alternatively, you can lay both walls at the same time and put wider wire in every 2 courses or so. In that scenario you would use 12 inch wire for an 8 inch block wall with a brick veneer.
Interesting thank you but, what on earth is tab wire. Google doesn't seem to recognise it nor can I find any trace of it here in Europe. What are the 2 tabs for?
Well this guy's abilities of spreading mortar is good for a laugh are blocks here in the US are typically around 35 to 50 pounds each more the 50 pounds any more it's stupid 3" split face side walls with some center web 3" and corner blocks can and do get around 4" the engineers that spec the blocks don't seem to grasp that steel with over lap goes in these blocks along with electrical and plumbing and the concrete and steel are what give it its true strength and limiting them is not all that smart. 55 to 65 pounds a block one handed is no problem even with high rebar all day long small cut up jobs I will average around 200 big jobs with long walls are easy and I enjoy laying 400 to 500 a day plus that includes stocking and rebar placement and grouting and I double joint all my own work and build most all the leeds for the guys
I, hope he's building fish tank and not house because no hold drill for rebar as they call stell maybe this why some home cap size in earth quake they laid neath and he worked clean.
Sloppy! But its not coming down. I rate you as a good second year apprentice. Work on that jointing and plumb your first course from the face of the block.
@@thomasfyffe5192 Let me count the ways. First off, Its always a mistake to lay past a level. A level is only accurate to 3 mm. It says it on the level. So 4 blocks long max, Also, Plumb the face of the first course. Joint/pointing is attrocious. Dont just lay one block and then use the level. Soften your mud. The list goes on. Second year where I come from. Wire has been installed sloppy. Insufficient overlap left out and why would you use 2 seperate pieces? Thats just the lead, What other sloppy mistakes do you make on the wall to make up time? Because you didnt plumb the face of the first course, You more that the 3mm out on a level and wondering your whole life why. Every course is tipped the opposite way to correct it on the level. Mistake after mistake results in deficiencies.
Damn, another Union Apprentice with a RU-vid video. #1 You Always Double Butter, did you forget that ?? And you level from side to side first then long ways. Get a better level. With all these Union Halls just letting Anyone in, because of Dues. No Wonder Real Craftsmanship is almost dead.
@@robertkiser8465 Only Boots and Apprentices don't. I have Built Buildings that are on TV Every day including Multi Billion dollar Vegas Casinos. You would be Schooled Quick when it comes to Block, Brick, Stone, Concrete, Safe Rooms, or any Custom or Commercial work....🤣🤣🍺🍺
@@kensterling5217 Me Too! I belong to local 4 Indiana Kentucky, We throw full head joints 1st time we don't have to double butter, Slows down production.. I retired in 2017.. I worked on football stadium's baseball stadium's, glass furnaces, I've done it all bruh. Traveled all over the United States, Have trowel will travel that was our motto.
@@robertkiser8465 I always double butter and will still be the fastest. Most Halls used to teach that, I doubt it now. I walked in one years ago and nobody spoke English. But they also had trouble with different ones running off with the Union money. I have worked Coast to Coast and the Best Hall that I have seen is Portland local 1. The City is a mess. As for Building Codes....Vegas and LA are the Best, because the Codes are based on Earthquakes. Florida and Most places need to Really step it up. Michigan has the Worst Building Codes that I have seen and I thought some of the Hillbilly stuff was bad...but Michigan is definitely the Worst that I have seen. Actually I am a Master Mason, I have 45 years of experience from Coast to Coast. And the Master Masons that I have met, I could count on 1 hand. But I am still amazed at some people's tooling.....What...?? You don't have a Hubbard, you have got to be kidding me....In Georgia they do some of this Grapevine jointing, it's different. I do like talking with Masons that know their chit. What I see a lot of is Contractors taking Shortcuts, that really Aggravates me. Like Safe Rooms in Tornado Alley, most are easily under Built. These Contractors are Building these Safe Rooms and this Family is going to it for Protection but they are Under Built,...Very Sad, I am surprised people like that can sleep at night. And I look around and see Craftsmanship Dieing, it's Sad 😔
As a bricklayers foreman, if I ever saw that somebody measured the first course with the tape measure, I would personally take the tape measure and toss it
Why ain't there no vertical rebar in the corner? How come you ain't checking your height after each and every Single course? This is exactly why you're a rookie, and you will be called a boot in my state of Texas! Hell, you never even checked your overall height!😂😂😂😂😂😂
This guy is an inspector not a mason. He should watch mason 201 for proper technique. I watched up to the fourth block, made my comment and then left. I don’t want to learn from this guy. I
Just like a union worker. Taking 10X longer to so a simple task. I wonder if he had 3 guys off camera holding the ground down so it didn't move on him 😂
I wonder why he left the "TAB WIRE" hanging out beyond the exterior of the wall. You can see clear to the end , he did not mention why. Also, how is it cut off ? (If necessary)
