Great video! Thanks to your video, I replaced the front struts on my 2005 Hyundai Tucson this weekend. Your step by step instructions were very helpful, it saved me a alot of money. The only difficulty I had was removing the sway bar links, they were all rusted. I had to cut them off using a grinder, but overall the entire job was pretty straightforward as long as you have the proper tools.
Yeah, sway bar links can be a pain when the threads rust up and the link starts free-spinning with the nut. Glad our video could help you with your repair! Thanks for watching and commenting! It is always good to hear when we can help someone save some money on a repair.
Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful video. You're making it look so simple I think I can do it in the driveway no problem. This is extremely educational video to me. Thanks a lot. I would love to see timing belt replacement on the same car, as this job is coming up at me soon.
Glad we were able to help! I don't think the Tucson we filmed in this video was in need of a timing belt any time soon, but I will definitely put a timing belt replacement on the list of things to film for a future episode!
Thanks for watching! Glad we could help! I will put ball joint replacements on the film list. The next time Ken gets one that needs them, we'll make an episode out of it. We do have a couple of episodes where he takes the ball joint out of the knuckle and puts it back in later in the video. I don't remember how the control arm is set up on the Tucson, but one of these videos might help - since the hard part is getting it in and out of the knuckle anyway. If you look at episode SG1, he takes the ball joint out at around 17:10 and puts it back in at 34:50. In episode SG2, he takes the ball joint out at 1:24 and puts it back in at 5:21. Hope this helps!
At about 20:30 where you had to be the "bigger pain", I used really wide vice grips that I clamped on the back of the strut & straight across to the knuckle (there's an indention on the back of the strut) which, with some manipulation, was easier getting the bolt through the top hole. These vice grips don't have the grip teeth but just rounded tips. I wish I could put up a picture of them but you might know what I'm talking about. Thank you for the video.
Yep, those are typically used for welding to clamp the material while still being able to see and access it. That is a good idea. I will relay it to Ken. He might use it as a "tech tip" for a future video dealing with struts. Thanks for the comment - any time there is an easier way of doing something (as long as it's not more dangerous or damage causing), we are all for it. And thanks for watching!
These struts came from completestruts.com. Ken says they are a bit softer ride than most. Monroe or Spectrum would give a closer ride feel to the original equipment. On this application, he says you wouldn't want to go with KYB (even though they are some of the best shocks/struts) because they are more performance oriented and less inclined toward comfort.
Hi , good video, but you dont show how assembly the strut with coil spring on the top. Is very important the placement of Seat Assembly-Spring,Upper. if it is not fitted correctly, then it causes noise when the steering wheel is turned. The big hole of of ''Seat Assembly-Spring,Upper'' must be positioned in the same straightness as the bottom hole of the shock absorber.
Good point if you are assembling the struts yourself. Ours were a complete assembly, so we did not have to worry about that. If we do a video where we actually assemble the struts from the separate parts, we will be sure to mention this. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Make it look so easy! I had my back ones done, i have an 06 Tuscon, and since getting them replaced, something metal rattles back their. Never had the sound prior. I've taken everything but the spare tire out of the back and still hear it. Do you have an idea what this could be? I know, kinda hard when you can't see or look at it.
Metallic rattling in the rear usually indicates a sign of a loose heat shield around the exhaust. You can check that by banging on the tailpipe or muffler with your fist. If you hear the rattle, that's most likely the culprit. Other than that, the only other thing we can think of is if the top mounts on the struts were not tightened completely and there is movement on the upper bolts when going over bumps. You can take off the plastic covers over the wheel wells inside the vehicle and get someone to ride in the back seat and watch to see if there is movement as you drive. Good luck and hope you find the problem. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
You would have to have a full service manual or a repair guide program like Alldata or Identifix. Haynes Repair manuals and Chilton repair manuals might have the specs for those bolts, but not sure. However, you really don't have to worry about specific torques for any off these bolts/nuts. They are not pressing on bearings like an axle nut. All of them can be snugged up with a 3/8ths ratchet or a regular wrench. No need to crank down hard on them. The lower strut bolts that attach the knuckle can be tightened with a half-inch ratchet and wrench since they are so much bigger. Also, you don't need threadlocker with any of these bolts.
my 2011 tucson rides like an old p/u trk. i have changed wheel size from 16 to 17(both hyundai) to have extra sidewall flex. that and new tires have helped but my teeth still chatter on most roads. dealer and tire shop both say its normal for this model. any thoughs / suggestions on how to tame this beast ?
Struts would be the next logical step if you haven't done them already. Since you are looking for a smoother ride, go with an OE ride quality or smoother strut. Gabriels tend to be a smoother ride. I've heard differing opinions on Monroes, but they usually have an OE-ride-quality quick strut option so you don't have to separate the shock from the spring (very dangerous, even for pros). I would not suggest KYB's for your situation. They are great for performance and hauling, but they tend to give a rougher ride.
If the setup on yours is the same as ours in the video, you won't need to get it realigned after doing the rear struts. Usually, rear alignment adjustment is on the control arms, so as long as you don't start unbolting those, you should be good to go.
Sway bar might be twisted. Try sending a ratchet strap around it and your floor jack to pull it down (the sway bar itself, not the link). If that's not the problem and the two are way off, you might want to measure the distance between the sway bar link bracket and top/bottom of the strut on the old and new struts to make sure they are the same. Sometimes parts that claim to be OEM setup are not. Ken has had to send parts back and get another brand many times for this very reason.
If vise-grips didn't give you enough of a bite to get the nut to spin, try soaking the nut with penetrant (like PB Blaster) and walking away for a while. If that doesn't work, the only two options are: 1. To heat up the nut with a mini blowtorch (or an induction heater if you have one) to expand it enough to spin. You will still need to hold the back side of the sway bar link with vise-grips to get the nut off. 2. Worst-case scenario, cut off the sway bar link from behind and pull the stud through the hole. Either way, you would have to replace the link - obviously, if you cut it off, but even if you heat it, there is a good chance the rubber boot will warp or melt allowing moisture and debris in that will cause premature failure. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
