Ken, I ran into this exact same issue many years ago. Someone recommended that I use metal pipe (about 8" long) for both connections to and from the pump and transition to PVC from there. The metal pipes worked as heat sinks and kept the PVC fittings from getting too hot. This solved the issue for me and as far as I know, it never happened again. I realize that your real goal is to shut it down before it gets that hot, but it may be worth the effort as a backup plan.
This is a great tip, I will also strongly suggest using brass or 304 steel connections if your pump propeller is made out of steel. This way you help prevent corrosion in the system. Also another recommendation is to use female connectors and let the pvc be the male ones so you can't break the connector if overtightened
Great video. Great solution. Not enough people are creatively solving problems. I am glad you are sharing stuff like this, and perhaps encouraging others. I of course love all of your content. Phase two of this project could be to alert you that the pump has kicked off due to high temperature up at the house. A 100 decibel alarm would work. Just kidding, I would do anything less than 120 decibels. The old solution saved the pump, by melting the pipe AND lowering the pressure permanently, acting like a fuse for the system. This new solution will continually cycle the a dry pump until presumably you notice your dry garden. The new system will save the PVC, but in the long run, I think it will put more stress on the pump with out an alert at the house that will alert you to a dry well.
Just attach a tether float (used in many sump pump applications) just above the foot valve so that when the water level gets too close for comfort to allow it to suck air, the float will fall and break connection. When the water level goes back up (usually 8 - 10 inches) the float will reconnect the circuit and your pump will resume pumping, assuming your system hasn't fallen below its low pressure cut-out point.
A commercial grade flow switch with timer circuit. The type used on commercial boilers. They shut boilers off when water has been interrupted. They mount in-line of piping.
This seems like treating the symptom, not the cause. (Although the thermostat as a fail-safe certainly isn't a bad idea.) There must be a way to detect the level reliably. Float, electrical conduction, ultrasonic, and so forth.
I am surprised you couldn't find a float switch or able to rig up something. That's too bad. Maybe there is something used for those deep septic tanks? Hmm. got me curious.
Great vid. Maybe you could add some thermal paste (for computers) between the housing and the thermostat? It could improve its accuracy further if the paint was removed from the pump where the thermostat contacts it. Just an idea.
I’m confused. You’re concerned about connections melting but not the pump which is the more expensive competition of the set up!? If for some reason your pump over heats, is the second thermal protection from a dryer shut your pump down until it cools down? I noticed when you tested in a cooking pan, when the temperature went down your circle was complete again and the light came back on. If that happens to your pump after your well dries, clogs, looses prime et cetera, until you intervene, that pump may kick on and off so many times to warn out. I wonder if there could be a set up to alert you the situation.
Very good idea. Alternately, this would be a good chance to run a little $4 Raspberry Pi Pico with a flow-meter on the output. When the power turns on you the Pico powers up and starts a 1-2 minute timer. If at the end of that time the flowmeter is not showing any flow, it engages a solenoid which shuts the pump off. Easy enough for school kids to learn K-8, cheap and marginally better than a thermostat perhaps.
How much elevation is there above the pump house and storage tank? Additionally the heat is likely from friction of the water in the pump volute when the pump is not moving water, not motor heat.
I can see problems with your idea. The main problem, as I see it, is the thermostat will continually cycle on and off when you run out of water. So the motor will continually cycle on and off, over heat, cool down, ad infinitum. That is extremely hard on the pump. (Not to mention running up the power bill). They do make manually reset thermal switches.. One might consider using a thermal switch to switch a latching relay which will latch open when the switch opens, disconnecting power to the pump, Then it is a manual reset. The pump would then not run until you have manually reset the switch after verifying there is sufficient water in the well.
There is a pressure switch that is made for that situation. It will shut the pump off if the output pressure is too low. When it does you have to manually reset it. Just look for a low pressure cutoff square D pressure switch. When the pump overheats it will melt the impeller and the wear seal inside it. BTDT I used to have one for my 100' well but I used the jet in the well not on the pump itself. My well is only a 4" pipe so pumps are rare and expensive for it. Finally there was a $160 3.5" import one on amazon a few years ago. I went with it and it's been great. On yours I would just swap it out with a cheap submersible pump. They use far less power for the water pumped and last allot longer. The low pressure cutoff switch is also usable on the submersible pump as well,
My pump has that very switch. And under normal conditions it works. But, when the water level drops and the pump starts drawing in some air it does not.
@@MANaboutTOOLS Have you tried adjusting the low pressure cutoff lower. I have had good luck with the square d ones but not with the off brand ones that come with the pumps.
Those low pressure cutout switches get confused by a pressure tank in the system. If there is no or little water use when the well runs dry, the pressure in the tank can be enough to stop the low pressure cutout from shutting off. Ideally an irrigation system does not use a pressure tank and pressure switch but simply turns on the pump when there is a demand for water. Then the low pressure cutoff works better. In this system I think I'd be focusing on a tethered float attached to the inlet pipe in the well.
@@Sylvan_dB Thanks for that comment. I could easily add a valve between the tank and pump so I could effectively turn off the pressure tank. That would make testing easier.
Surprised the pump body get as hot as it does under pumping conditions. Sooner or later the heat will destroy the pump seal and your vibration if probably caused by errosion of the impeller due to oxygen entrained in your water. Inlet piping may be too small fir a 3/4 horse pump.
Это решение - костыль. Тем более пластиковая стяжка со временем от температуры будет деградировать и в конце все-таки отвалится. Чем не устроил обычный поплавковый выключатель за 3 доллара?
Have a look at: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XNLB0AizBFg.html (How to make a Holding Circuit, with just one Relay - 313) - using two float switches, to set the level that the pump will run at. If there is no water in the well, the pump never runs. If it starts running and the level drops below the lower set hight, the pump will lose power. Just copy that design and have the relay act as a power switch to the pump. Would work on any pump, and no need to modify anything except the power in. Or just have it on the power outlet.
