This is a CNC box design with a sliding lid held on by magnets. The magnets were purchased off of Ebay (www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-x-1-4-x-...) The box is created on the Shapeoko using Carbide Create.
Thanks for these videos. I’ve been woodworking for quite some time but have just recently purchased a CNC and have no experience in using them. Your videos are incredibly helpful and inspiring. Thank you!
Never fully grasped the nuances of this video until this morning when I rewatched and designed along with it. Taking into account the dimension differences in my stock, magnets and the orientation of my jig made it a challenge, but I think it helped me understand the concepts much better. Can’t cut it until tomorrow. I hope I didn’t make many mistakes that I’ll have to learn from.
Another great project. Not a carbide create expert at the moment, so trying to decipher all the toolpaths stacked on 1 model was a bit confusing. Novice mode would be to draw base & top as separate entities, then because it would look more complex,use dovetail bit for the slides in base & top!
I have also been following for some time as I have a thing for small containers / box's myself. I am very new with a shapeoko and cnc in general, these smaller projects with your great step by step tutorial has been a great help. But I still don't get it sometime !! Interested in sharing the files for that project? Just had to ask.. I am willing to donate to the cause for a little help in making some changes in your prior projects too if possible. I do have a lot of great ideas but am just learning v-carving at this point !! Thanks Again Great Work and Keep it up..
Awesome - I am a beginner and learn a lot from you - busy so I have not played with it as much as I would like - thanks. Hey I have an idea what is you make the top the U shape down and the bottom the T up - that way the box can be deeper - hope that makes sense.
That's a pretty good idea, especially for 3/4 wood. You will still run into limitations of the bit and the z-axis for anything over 2 inches thick. I would be curious to see how this turns out if you try it. Thanks for watching.
Good and clearly explained video once again. Just a comment, maybe you should use the offset tool to size inside and outside of the box instead of calculating and creating a second box.
Normally, I use the offset tool for boxes that just have a simple friction fit lid (see my other videos). In this case I wanted a little more control over how much material is left for the slides and the magnets.
I tend to like the Amana Specktra bits (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725RG4R9 ). For wood, I would definitely use a downcut bit. Upcuts are great for situations where you need to clear shavings out (aluminum and plastics), but with wood, pulling up means you are pulling the wood fibers towards the surface, where they have no support. This means they are more likely to break off and give you a "fuzzy" edge on your cuts. With a downcut, the fibers are pushed down into the ones below, which gives them more support and makes for a cleaner edge cut.
@@johnearlclark I know the feeling. So many things to do, so little time. I hope you can share a video on making a puzzle box at some time. I have gotten good at producing boxes & cubes after making a Jig and Carbide Create for templates. Couldn't have done any of it without your excellent videos to get me going in right direction.
The magnets provide enough of a grip to keep the box from opening when stored in a purse or backpack. To get a tight enough fit with dovetails, you run the risk of the box sealing itself shut when the temperature or humidity changes.
There is in newer versions, but the implementation is pretty clunky. If you look under edit, you should see "Show Layers" when you open the dialog you can make new layers, color code them, change their position in the stack and move things to different layers. However, you have to close the dialog in order to continue editing the file. It makes switching between layers difficult and limits the usefulness.
I use Carbide Create for designing and Carbide motion to run the machine. They do what I need and they are very simple to use (They come with the machine and are also free). I will sometimes use a vector program like Inkscape to create something complex (like carved designs on the box top) and import it into Carbide Create to make the final Gcode. Lot's of people rave about V-Carve but I have not tried it (there is no Mac client).
@@johnearlclark can I create whatever image I want on the programs you use for design? Like inkscape for example, can I freely draw specific black and white images then transfer to cnc? Or can I upload a picture (a drawing) I took with my phone to inskscape and make edits?
@@michaelwalsh2522 Sorta... There are two main types of images: bitmap and vector. Bitmap is made up of tiny dots and vector is made of math. Carbide Create understands vector drawings. This is typically what you get with illustrator and inkscape. However, you can take a bitmap image file (like from your camera) and have inkscape do a trace. If you do a quick search on RU-vid for Inscape Trace bitmap, you will get quite a few videos. Save your file as SVG for import into Carbide Create.
It's been a while since I have cut any of these, and a I tend to do them in batches (2 or 4 bottoms or lids at a time). I think its about 15-20 minutes with the bit change. Maybe less. The quarter inch bit can chew through the material pretty quick.
@@johnearlclark Thanks for the reply, at that speed it seems like CNC beats 3d Printing for making things to sell, as long as under 3 inches high that is : ).
If you are asking about the one that appears about 10 seconds into the video, it was made based off of my cube video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tuaxRnWCrwU.html That particular one is made out of mirrored plexiglass and etched from the back (removing part of the mirror) with a v-bit (or diamond drag bit). Is that the one you are asking about?
