Great vids. Happy to find someone pushing the limits and using different milling techniques. I run a precision mathews small manual shop mill in garage and I'm looking to add one of these. Thanks for the content man. Subscribed for future vids
I agree with Jerold. I personally use removable carpet tape form my local hardware store. Depending on the part sometimes that is all I use and it holds well and also is easy to remove. I also use the t-slot hold downs for some parts.
Cool Piece. Instead of sandpaper on the bottom I would suggest double sided tape. It holds really well and adds almost no height. This is the first time I have watched a person dive into a 3/4" depth of cut. I usually do like John's suggestion of going smaller depth with faster speed rates/lower RPM to get my chip load. Great Video, really enjoyed it.
Thanks! Ya I finally found a good double sided tape which is amazing for signs and stuff. I haven't had the courage to try it on a larger part like this though.
@@AustinConrad I have made parts from small things up to 30"x30" with double sided tape. Works really well. I usually throw in a screw or two on the large parts just to make sure it can't move... It is a great feeling when your cut depth is perfect and it cuts down to the tape but not through it.... :-)
Great question. I'm actually still using the cutting edge because the tool spins clockwise as well. I'm machining using "climb milling" instead of "conventional milling". A quick youtube search will show videos that do better explanation than my self. Essentially, climb cutting is better for tool life due to chip formation, heat dissipation and is good practice on a cnc. Conventional milling is better for machines like manual mill Bridgeport's because they can be susceptible to the workpiece getting pulled along in a climb milling cut. I hope that helps!
@@AustinConrad hmm, I've had an Axiom CNC for almost 2 years and this is the first time I've heard this explanation. It goes against my reasoning about heat dissipation, but I'll do more research on it now. Thanks.
@@acerjuglans383 no worries, only reason I know about it is because that's what I went to school for and my instructors who have run cnc shops showed plenty of videos like this one to explain what's going on: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4Q4yRt1jHGo.html Machining is as much an art as it is a science and there's plenty to learn.
@@acerjuglans383 it's an interesting point. No major difference other than the simple fact that the wood chips won't take much of the heat no matter how you cut them because they are insulative not conductive like metals. So it's more of a stability in the cut, chatter and tool life reason than pure heat to the chip. Great question though
Your 1st cut using full side contact was scarry. Most people would take that down in segments eg 0.25" as well as shallower thickness of cut. Will cause less friction heat on your cutting bit & spindle as well as less strain on your machine. You could then run at a faster feed rate
Hi John! Thanks for the advice. It's true more traditional tool paths fit that bill. I'm trying to approach it from a high efficiency milling strategy which is high axial, low radial and high feed rate. In testing with the 1/4" endmill, the low flute helix angle meant I ended up being at a 40% step over to hit enough flute engagement to eliminate chatter. I also tested that recipe up to 200 ipm so it's not that bad here at only 90 ipm. Also the linear rails on this machine means my only limiting factor for rigidity is the belts and if I loose steps or snap and endmill, back off and try again right!
