I am looking forward to acquire a small Grizzly shaper. I really don't need a big one but even the smaller sibling of the family is a great addition to any hobbyist shop and it brings a lot more flexibility over a router table, I think.
I have a 5 hp shaper and really don't know how to use it to its potential. I would sure love it if you made several videos on shaper use. Especially baseboard trip and window and door casings. Thanks keep up the great content.
I have the Powermatic 5hp shaper and they are definitely worth what you get from them. The only thing I’ve found is you really have to be careful with these machines is they are not forgiving. If you make a mistake they are extremely punishing. I guess all these woodworking machines can be but this is the one I’m most leery of.
Just one tip - When you're changing cutters, spindles etc, put a piece of plywood or MDF on the shaper table to put metal objects on. Would prevent potential knicks / scratches from developing on the table surface.
Nice machine! Learned a lot on this one. As a hobbyist I'll probably never own such a machine but I do so e smaller scale shaping on my Shopsmith and it works very well for me.
Brother I was using my spindle moulder from 95 onward mine spindle is from single shaft that gives 6500 rpm it is used in single side your machine can rotate left and right what was the real use of this make reply.
Thanks for making this video. My dad was a cabinet maker turned general contractor. He had a shaper but got out of the business when I was like 14 so I barely got to use it. Then he passed away a few years ago so I was no longer able to pick his brain. Fast foreword to RU-vid and I’d see all these wood workers using router tables. Other than size I never was sure what the difference was or if there was one. I assumed the shaper was just a bigger permanent router table designed more for production work rather than hobbyists
Great explanation and video; however, you forgot the most important thing: ALWAYS DE-ENERGIZE THE EQUIPMENT AT THE POWER SOURCE (e.g., breaker switch off or unplug) BEFORE WORKING ON IT TO CHANGE TOOLING OR PERFORM MAINTENANCE. DO NOT RELY INTRINSIC SAFETY DEVICES TO DE-ENERGIZE THE PRIMARY SOURCE OF POWER.
Good morning I love your tutorials and I've been following you for some time now ,my question for you is what is the brand of red cutters and blades you use please send me a link to where i can purchase online I live in the Caribbean and would love to equip the shop with some of these blades and cutters
In England we call this machine a spindle moulder, I owned and used mine for years making windows and doors before selling it on. This moulder seems way better than my old Kity machine
I've heard of these Shapers but I've never seen on of them before in use.. How much would one of these set me back if I was in the market for a decent one my bro?? If anybody in the comments knows how much one of these would cost me please let me know if u have a moment.. Thanks in advance lads..
I’m looking into getting a jet router table but I am for sure going to making cabinet doors. Do I just get a shaper so I’m not stuck to shaker doors only?
Yo my man look up the difference between a timber frame come with Morrison in doubt versus conventional frame as far as windshield hurricane proof all that
Now you don't have a bit that just spins.. proceeds to say how it just spins. Says you can use any router bit in it, but doesn't say that most routers spin at 22k RPM max speed not 10k.
I've been scrolling comments looking for an explanation of what "it spins around unlike a router which...spins, around." 🤨 so once more for us dumb kids in the back, is there a difference or can this just accept larger bits/ spin slower & with added torque?
this guy has way way too much money. I could never afford what he has in his shop. Must be at least 1 mil or over. Your normal Joe woodworker could not even afford a fraction of what he has got for tools.
You forgot the most important thing. Router can cut your finger off but it will take .5 seconds. Shaper can do it 10x faster (and with a cleaner cut making reattachment more successful). But seriously thanks for this info on a commercial machine most of us won’t ever be able to use.
Great video. Unfortunately for me I don't use a shaper, I use a router. The shapers must be pretty expensive and the cutting bits must be expensive as well. Again, great video.
People purchase router tables and put the most powerful routers available to run large diameter cutters. One major problem with that concept is a router motor is a universal motor and the RPM drops under a load. . The torque and HP of a router is rated at its maximum RPM and not its actual working RPM. In order to ensure that the cutter is rotating at the proper RPM under a load, the router speed must be initially set to an RPM that exceeds the maximum safe RPM of the cutter. The final cutter RPM under load then becomes a hit or miss crap shoot. This can be observed by watching a woodworker cut kitchen cabinet door panel faces with a large panel cutter router bit. You can hear the RPM of the router drop when the wood is fed into the cutter. If the required cutter speed under load is 7000 RPM and to achieve the working RPM the cutter must be initially set to 20,000 RPM, the dynamic balance is off and the cutter will dangerously vibrate. For applications requiring smaller diameter cutters at high RPMs cutting small grooves and slots, a router table does a nice job. When the load begins to slow down the cutter RPM, a shaper is a better and safer choice. A shaper uses an induction motor which will either continue to turn at the initial RPM or it will stall. If the HP of the motor is too low for a given cutter diameter then a larger more powerful motor can replace the current motor or a larger more powerful shaper can be used for a particular job. Shapers and the HP of their motors are selected based upon the cutter selection and the load. If the proper shaper and motor are selected, the cutter RPM of a shaper will not change. This is a far safer option than attempting to push a large, high HP router past its intended purpose. The shaper in the link below (G0510Z) is sold by Grizzly Tools and was also sold by Harbor Freight. It is roughly the size of a router table but the similarity ends there. It is a true shaper and is a much better machine for applications requiring larger diameter cutters. It comes with both a spindle and a collet allowing the machine to use large panel cutting router bits without the dangerous high speed vibration issues. Because of the reduced vibration the cuts are much smoother. This model initially came with a 3/4 HP motor but a 1HP or a 1 1/2 HP motor can be easily switched out if needed. Once the motor is matched to the load, a shaper does a far better job than a router table for panels and moldings. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XK0ZM-AYodE.html This link shows several shapers set up as a system to produce kitchen cabinet doors. These are extremely powerful high precision machines designed specifically to produce cabinet doors. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R5TUG1v6O5E.html PHD
Other than cost, why would anyone need to buy a router table setup? I’m not saying not to buy a ‘router’ they’re obviously pretty much required. I’m saying a shaper is essentially a BETTER two in one
He showed a collet adapter that replaces the spindle. It holds whatever size collet you need, usually 1/4" or 1/2", to fit the shank size of your router bits. You could also use a variety of endmills in a multitude of sizes, and purchase collets for each size endmill shank.
Power feeders are AWESOME! They keep your hands away from the cutters and actually give a better cut than pushing by hand. I have powerfeeders on 2 of my shapers and one more for the tablesaw. Looking at one for the bandsaw now.
The shop I work at has power feeders on each of the shapers such a nice thing to have keeps me safe and like the commenter above said makes a very clean perfect cut The rule we have when running grooves is run it twice
Power feeders to make it so much safer. If your what is tearing out when putting a decorative edge on, you can back feed the wood. (Using the power feeder you can run the wood backwards from which way you should be running it)