Sharpening a Benchmade 940 Osborne with WATER STONES 

Haha Just be thankful the clip was editing to begin where it did, or you would have gotten quite the show! My EDC rotates just like yours does, GG!

Haha I appreciate it, Will!

Thank you! :-D

Thanks buddy! I appreciate your commenting and support!

Hey Eric, Thanks for watching. I do sharpen for a burr, but this wasn't one of my all encompassing sharpening videos. I recommend checking out some of my more educational tutorials. This one was more of a 'ride-along' sharpening video.

@@kyle_noseworthy I watched them all. :)

Man, that's a slick setup! Sheesh!

@@kyle_noseworthy Thanks. I've been brewing this up over the course of a few years. Works for me. I can always add/adopt, when I feel the need to, but this works for everyday stuff. Eg. when I help a friend with assembling furniture, I'll take my SwissTool Spirit, when it's more of a construction job, I'll take an extra beater/loaner, or when it's a campfire/woodcarving thing, I'll take my Mora 510 and a small hatchet/tomahawk.

I haven't been able to get my hands on a Tern, and I want one for the same legal reasons, but one thing concerns me about it, since there aren't any liners, and it's just G10 scales, if you were to push the scales together in the center, could you create some unwanted or unreasonable flex? Because I want to use it as a decently hard working knife. Since carrying locking or fixed blade knives outside of my property is a no-go, I'm very limited on the options I can use. The only two I have come across that meet the requirements for a blade are the Byrd Tern, and the Boker Plus XS Drop, I'm saying toward the latter, because it has steel liners. But the Tern is cheaper, and if the flex isn't as big of a deal as I think, then I would be inclined to buy that.

@@autumn5592 Go for the Tern, I've had it for years and it just works. G10 is incredibly stiff, it's not some cheap plastic. If I pinch it really hard, I can feel a tiny bit of flex, but you can't really see it. As an example: my Victorinox Huntsman flexes way more despite the aluminium liners.

@@kaizoebara Well, G10 is similar to Micarta (except G10 uses Fiberglass fabrics for strength), but I have made Micarta flex, so I was a little sceptical. Thanks for reassuring me though because I don't really see a point on spending ~20 more pounds on a knife that has exactly the same features (except for marginally better steel.)

You are correct, but the slurry doesn't help to much, to my knowledge. Especially on ceramic type stones like he's using. (Since they're so hard and abrading.) I would just use them to clean the surface materal, so you keep good sharpening performance. Though, I am inclined toward a rust eraser (since they shouldn't wear as fast, and do the same thing, while being cheaper.)

Thanks man! I appreciate that. Agreed on the sharpening methods. I think many 'experts' like to make sharpening seem wayyyy more difficult than it is. Stone sharpening is a skill that everyone CAN and SHOULD learn. It isn't rocket surgery!

@@kyle_noseworthy you’re welcome dude and that’s my feelings also, I think these “experts” want to make it seem like this impossible skill of the gods, and yes of course like any other skill it takes time and practice but it’s something anyone who is determined to learn this skill absolutely can. When I started free hand I was terrified of certain steels because I was always told and heard they were hard to sharpen, but they aren’t any more difficult to sharpen they just take longer, haha I sharpen s30v or m4 the same way I sharpen aus8 or 440c, they just take longer. Exactly hahaha it isn’t rocket surgery 😂

I don't want to seem like some kind of psuedo-expert or like I don't know what I'm talking about, I'm sure there's people that are much more educated in the topic than me, but I would like to say, there are some validity to the claims they're making; Some guy, not sure who, or why, but he was able to use an electron microscope to look at the edge of his knife after sharpening certain ways, and the pictures he took showed a difference between finishing with stropping strokes, as opposed to cutting strokes. The stropping strokes provides a more V shaped edge, where the cutting produced a slight concave edge. So, technially speaking, you could get a finer edge from stropping strokes. However, the people going around demanding that you sharpen certain ways is just idiotic, and I do see it constantly too -- So long as the person develops the muscles to work the knife on the stone, it doesn't really matter, if they hold the angle, they're gonna get a good edge. You don't NEED to only do one '''true best way'' of sharpening, you can do what you want. At the end of the day, even if you've got poor technique you can still get a very respectable edge, and defnintely a usable one. Personally, I do my bulk work on a220 grit, and 1,000 grit stones, with foward and backwards strokes, like Kyle does, except at the end I do stropping strokes (I have before I found out about the above information), because it felt the best for me to do, then I strop on a ~3,000 grit compound, and then an ~8,000 grit compound. Provides me with all the edge I need. Sometimes I omit the 1,000 grit stone, because it's a Japanese water stone, and I just don't feel like soaking it before hand. Source ; scienceofsharp.com/2015/10/20/sharpening-with-the-king-1k6k-combination-stone/ Only the first part is relevant -- It shows difference between stropping and cutting strokes, and it also shows a reduced sharpness by using cutting strokes with a higher grit. Though, I would personally say that this information doesn't mean to much, and is only really important for perfectionists, or the sort, where logical reasoning, and something like a 'workable edge' doesn't mean much to them. That said, it is still interesting to see. As for the 'making sharpening harder', I do absolutely agree, it does just confuse the topic for a lot of people, where a simple guide that just goes into the basics can get a person to have a knife that's shaving sharp in moments. People telling people to worry about exact angles, grit sizes, stone progressions, lapping fluids, techniques, and loads of other stuff confuse them. A little anecdote, I recently taught my 13 year old brother to sharpen, I told him two key pieces of information. 1) Keep the angle as well as you can. 2) Make a burr, remove the burr. I was there to point his mistakes, if they were bad (like gouging the stone), but I essentially put it infront of him, and left him to it. I did dull the knife on a brick, and in as little as 5 mins he had a knife that was shaving sharp from a 220 grit stone, and a 3,000 grit strop. People make it so hard for beginners to get into and enjoy sharpening, due to eltism and 'THE CORRECT METHODS.' I can see why people aren't willing to get into it. Anyway, that was a bit of a tangent. Best of luck, enjoy yourselves.

That's hilarious! Another interesting fact to continue this thread: This BM osborne was gifted to me by a guy named Bob!! haha

Do you make sure you raise a burr on both sides before moving up in grit ? Can't stress this enough if you are a beginer

@@Cleymant well yes, i can make a burr easily, though i think it may stress the blade

@@hirayaman246 maybe you press too hard on the Stones. I only had results with diamond and ceramic as well when I started. Make sure you spend extra time to deburr on the whetstone, it s sometime harder with softer stones

@@Cleymant im just puzzled when i can switch to the next grit- i mean i can make a burr on one side, then on the other and i can keep it like this forever.....

@@hirayaman246 once you got burr on both sides, make short and light alternate passes until you feel no burr from both sides. You have to ligthen the pressure as you go. You can then finish with edge leeading strokes alternating to remove the biggest of a burr