This is super nit-picky, but Dr. Ashby once mentioned vaseline and chapstick act as coagulants. But, I've always done the same, basically, so I'm slightly torn.
I bought one of these a few months ago after seeing the Ranch Fairy’s video. My single bevel grizzly’s have never been better. Thanks fellas for the updated video. Great stuff
I bought one of these sharpeners a year or so ago, i watched the first video Troy did on it and was instantly sold. I haven't used oil or water to clean the stones, I stumbled upon using a pencil eraser to clean the stones, it works awesome! especially on the ceramic. I think whatever method you choose the keep the stones "unclogged" will definitely work but the eraser works for me and i just wanted to share this with everyone
Mike is one of the best people I've ever met in archery business, He replaced heads for me numerous times and I fell down and split the furrel on a couple of the heads and he replaced them right away for me no issues and he even sent me a hat and a pin
Troy brought up in another video about the sound difference that a coarse bur makes verses a refined bur when cutting paper to test sharpness. A coarse bur makes a zzzzzt sound and a super sharp refined bur makes a ssssst sound. Very helpful.
I bought a Work Sharp a couple of years ago for my knives and it's been amazing for that. I'm trying the black hornets for my crossbow this summer and glad you put the sharpener to the test on them. Will run a comparison using it vs the staysharp jig.
I watched a video by work sharp and they used a pencil eraser to clean the ceramic instead of oil. They said it made it so you didn’t need to oil anything to keep dirt and metal dust out of everything. Gonna give it a try when mine shows up. Love all the videos guys
I'm 59 years old, I bought a ceramic stone already shaped to the angle of 3 blade broad heads, They also made four blade models...cost $10 in the 90's.
FYI - If you keep your stones wet (just barely) the stones will cut better. Keeps the metal shavings suspended in the water and improves cutting. Especially important when you're using the ceramic for preserving the life of the stone.
I have the Smith 50596 handheld sharpener like that and I have actually filled the edge down on the clamp itself so it doesn’t get in the way of smaller stuff. I can actually sharpen bear bleeders with it.
Blue sharpies work best for me. The black is difficult to distinguish from shadows and reflections. Machinists use blue Dykem layout fluid to mark steel. Just a tip some may want to try.
I messaged Ranch over a year ago and told him I was using the Precision Adjust on his Broadheads and others. He hadn't heard about it yet. And I was letting him know his bevels were not right and you had to reshape the bevel from above 30 degrees. They had some metal issues they were trying to work out and couldn't get the right bevel. He really liked the idea of the worxsharp and said he would have to look for it. Looks like he found it.
Great video! Not boring at all. I love my stay sharp setup thanks for letting us know about it last year Troy. I’m switching to the magnus single bevel serrated next week.
I have found a flat top glass cup-preferably clear glass with water on the rim, is the best way to hone an edge…you can really hear the difference in edge issues over the length of your blade. With a little practice you can work out uneven areas and control the angle vs a leather strop
They made an elite model thats solid metal and it comes with a table top style clamp for the tiny blades and makes them way easier it also comes with digital angle reader so definitely worth the few extra bucks for the upgrade
That sounds like the professional precision adjust model which is almost double what the elite is. I have one and I think it’s well worth the extra cost.
always remember a super sharp edge damages faster then a sharp edge and always ends up blunter after impact. broadheads are classified as a hard use blade, no hard use blade is ever sharpened to super sharp since it loses the edge to quick and becomes useless
I appreciate the sharpening video, but what's the difference between the magnus single bevel and crimson talon cleaver? They look nearly identical, same shape, blade thickness, etc.
That is a nice looking sharpener. I ordered one after seeing this video. I've been using the Lansky sharpening system which is very similar but not nearly as safe or easy. It sharpens great so I know this one will do the same with less hassle. Keep these great videos coming.
Shoutout Magnus Bullheads. Shot my first turkey with a bow this spring. After many frustrations with the 200 grain "Solid Dcap" I switched to the Magnus Bullhead. Much cheaper. Better arrow flight. Less messing with my bow sight. Better outcome, better product.
Just bought this after watching the video and sharpened some Simmons treesharks to hair popping sharp!! Thank you guys!! Going to try to magnus 150 single bevels this fall I think
With the quick detach clamp you could just remove it and hold the entire clamp assembly to run the back of the single bevels across sandpaper on a flat surface. I have a piece of glass glued to an oak board. I place the glass next to the edge of a table and it allows my entire kme jig to be held while placing the broadhead flat on the glass. This way your main angle never has to change. I've also done the flat side at the same angel as the bevel, just much fewer strokes to get rid of the bur. It all works. Good stuff.
I'm running Iron Will single bevels and brought them up to a mirror polish. That should 1) reduce drag through the animal and 2) be inherently more rust resistant. I sharpen them with a stone and rather than beveling the backside of the edge, I lay it flat on a strop and give it a couple of swipes. But as a knife maker, I may have to pick up one of these rigs, it'll make sharpening my knives a lot easier.
I admit, I havent been able to give up my file. It was such a source of pride and a hard-earned skill getting a Grizzly, Magnus, or an Ace Broadhead literally shaving sharp. So what I did was, I recently bought a fold-out diamond hone I can use like a file. 200, 400, 600 grit......and I can see that 600 grit makes them very smooth and clean. Cuts paper ok, but those rubber bands just pop on contact.
I really like that Magnus has been doing cut on contact broadheads for a long time.... even when it looked like the industry was going away from them. They just kept making products they believed in. Now that people are switching back to COC heads and they could have an opportunity to increase their prices and really take advantage of the situation. They keep making "affordable" broadheads all while tweaking the designs and improving their products. I also like wasp for sticking to their guns as well. Wasp makes a "traditional" broadhead that is fantastic and its not super expensive. I think the released a single bevel version as well
RF question I shoot single bevel iron wills the bevel is around 34 to 32* I see this only goes to 30* will that machine work off hand or can that machine go a little higher up above 30*
I bought one of these sharpeners when they 1st came out. Specifically for broad heads.. love it and great to see a video on it.. What are your thoughts on the new Slick Trick single bevel heads??? I’m trying them out this season. So far I love them.
If you’re willing to spend more money for some extra convenience, the Wicked Edge sharpeners are the best thing going. They allow for setting two different bevel angles at once so there’s no changing the angle setup to switch sides. They also have a way bigger selection on diamond grits, ceramic polishing stones, and strops. I bought one for my dad for Christmas a couple of years ago not really knowing what it was, but ended up blown away by its performance. If “scary” sharp is the goal, the hardcore knife guys using the Wicked Edge have that figured out. Instead of checking sharpness with paper, they are literally splitting hairs with their edges.
I bought this setup last season along with some broadheads and i have to say it does not seem to work as great as they make it seem. It is not easy to sharpen a broadhead with this sharpener, it wiggles and moves around a lot. You can only tighten plastic so much before it brakes.
I bought the work sharp sharpener for my knives a couple years ago and I tried it on my broadheads … then I saw Ranch Fairy do it … I was like “he stole my idea”.
I feel bad. I saved and saved to get the sirius sharpening set. Since I bought it I have only seen the fairy sharpen on this kit verses his own stones. 😞
I own my own sharpening business, 2 quick tips that will help! 1. Moisten your stones with water as you go. It will help your stones cut better. 2. Check out a diamond imulsion or buffing compound for your strop! That will be a huge game changer for your deburring!
Also, you will be most effective with your time if you sharpen until you have a burr on the opposite side that you are sharpening. At high grits, it will be very difficult to feel but you can use a small post it note or other thin paper to check for one. 😊
@@jeffbuszmann5752it will work but will take a bit different technique. You can find other videos on how to do them. There may some better options though for doing the serrations like a diamond rod
Mike and Magnus are awesome. I killed my first deer at 13 with a magnus blade, and last year I killed my first public deer with a magnus black hornet. Shot placement is everything, but man those broadheads kill! 25yds and down.
Suggestions for crossbow hunters? I use rage they have done good on everything I have shot 3 deer 3 hogs. Some of us are not able to draw a compound bow.
You don’t want to only sharpen half of the bevel though because then you would be increasing the angle. That’s the whole point of the sharpie, so you can match the angle on the edge. He’s saying as long as the outer edge is sharp then you’re good. That’s not necessarily true because that wouldn’t mean you are at a steeper angle than what it came with. The finer the angle, the easier it will cut BUT you can go too fine and it’s not as strong.
