Sharpstar 130HNT First Light 

Danke für das Video, es ist wie immer gut gelungen und informativ. 😊

Welcome back! Missed your videos. Glad to see you still got your sense of humor and are not afraid to include mistakes you've made or struggles you've been having. I think it only makes the video more relatable. Good luck on your thesis!

Very well made video, interesting too. Thanks!

Welcome back Tim😊

I have similar scope - Epsilon 130D with Moonlight Motorized focuser (zero backlash). Awesome scope package! Scope was collimated by Takahashi USA 1.5 years ago. Never needed collimating, despite taking scope everywhere.

It's a great scope. I have the 150

Congratulations regarding (a) finishing another year at university & surviving the exams, and (b) your purchase of a new telescope! This was a very interesting video, and your image of M31 is impressive. I am looking forward to more of your feedback about the Sharpstar 130 HNT. One question: What camera did you use to capture the data for M31?

I can highly recommend barlowed laser for collimation

Be careful not to get the aperture virus lol. I now have a 250 10" Newt optimized for photography and I already plan upgrading to a 300mm/12" astrograph. For every 5cm of aperture diameter you add, the differences are absolutely colossal, makes it look like you are upgrading the Hubble to JWST and you can start imaging tiny galaxies and planetary nebulas in ridiculous detail. The only problem is that 300mm telescopes start getting very heavy and you need to upgrade the mount to something truly professional. If EQ6R worked very well with my 250PDS and full image train, 300Q or RC12 will utterly destroy the mount, requiers a heavy payload mount. Congrats for the decision to get a reflector, they are sometimes nasty to use and calibrate and balance, but the images they can get are fabulous!

Great review!! How are you liking the 130HNT so far? What filters are you using and do you think a 7x2” filter wheel would be too much for the image train?

Good afternoon, congratulations on your purchase, I'm very interested in following your new project, but I'd like to leave you with a tip for photographing nebulae/ Ha and OIII, it's better to think about buying a filter prepared for these F2.8 That's what happened to me, after buying a Samyang F2, with my Antlia ALP-T I didn't have as much signal as I expected. I ended up deciding to buy the new IDAS NBZ II, and it was the best thing I did.

Have the 15028HNT version, and the focuser stiffness can be tube a little. Removing the pinion with the four 2.5 mm screws reveals two allen keys that allow tightening and centering of the drawtube. Placing pinion back on is trivial, put four screws bakc and its working again. sometimes they can be too tight, or too loose giving tilt that you cannot remove unless the drawtube is just right. Askar and sharpstar focusers on refractors have these two centering screws on the top side where they are easily accessible, older designs like this are underneath and need the pinion assembly removed for a few moments to adjust. Rarely needs fine tuning again unless thermal (hot and cold repeatedly from use and storage) unscrewing after several years requires it.

I’ve been also thinking about this ota, at the end I went with an Askar FRA300 for the sake of simplicity.

You should collimate with a Cheshire not a laser, well at least not a cheap one . And go all the way out with a smaller collimation eye piece to see if your rotational axis is aligned (usually don’t have to change anything if you bought it new)

Sounds like you aware that fast newts have off-center shadows in the donuts when collimated. I find the tribahtinov mask method of fast new collimation is the least ambiguous and most systematic way of doing final star collimation on the primary mirror...highly recommend giving it a try 😀

I like your final image very much but would recommend to adjust the colors of the center. For my taste it is a little too obvios combination of different imageparts. Besides that it's great. Die you find out already how often you need to readjust the focus? I've heard different things between it has to be collimated often and can't hold calibration on the one and it's very focus stable on the other side.

Looks nice.

Is that an ASI2600 Duo camera? If not, how are you guiding?

Hey, ich hab den großen Bruder. Also den 150er. Kleiner Hinweis, das Bild des defokusierten Sternes passt so. Der Sekundärspiegel ist mit einem Offset aufgeklebt. Deshalb entsteht auch ein ein asymmetrischer Donut. Das Gerät ist bei mir mittlerweile quasi ersatzlos im Einsatz. Auf einer ZWO AM3 das perfekte Equipment zum Reisen. Grüße Jürgen