SHELLY PRO SERIES | Professional line for supreme home & facility automation 

Exactly

We need the dimmer version!! Are they planning to release it?

It is genrally the importers responsibility to get certification.

I would love that

I'm not sure if they plan to create a dimmer or RGBW controller, since those, at least in my opinion, don't fit in well with a central installation. What they do have here are the sort of things that do make some sense as master on\off switches.

Sorry for the late reply (just saw the video now). Consult with an electrician, but I'm assuming that, as long as you have phase and neutral, you should be fine. Yes, I know in the UK some houses use a ring topology, and that can change things, hence "consult an electrician" to make sure. As for higher currents, you'll need to use contactors instead. That's what I have had to do with an EV charger circuit that can pull over 16A. You replace the existing circuit breaker for that particular appliance with a contactor breaker with the same rating, and use the Shelly to control the contactor, which in turn turns that particular circuit on or off. Basically, the Shelly acts as a low-power switch that powers a much higher power one. Do keep in mind that sometimes the contactor can "bounce" when turning it on or off. Meaning it can go back to on when you send the "off" command, and vice-versa. It's gotten better on my implementation (Shelly EM) over time, but I never got it to work 100% reliably before I moved out of that place. Not sure if it was a Shelly issue or a contactor issue, because the bounce would be more frequent when the circuit was under load.

​@@nanianmichaels This is me being curious about it, not something to bother an electrician about. It seems that Shelly is lacking in the higher currents, which is a shame, as if you are going to use this to monitor and control each circuit, your limited to 16A and below circuits, like lights. I have 12 circuits in my home, and only 4 would be suitable. 4 outa 12, not worth it. For me, I would have all the standard DIN rail breakers for all the circuits (MCB, RCD or RCBO/AFDD), then have these in line after them in a double rail config. That way, I have the electrical protection from reg breakers that are known to be really good, and the flexibility of smart control + monitoring. I did come across some smart Zigbee/WIFI/Bluetooth circuit breakers that are made in China from a company called Tongou. That put me off right there, but after researching them, they seem to be a reputable company that caters mainly to the industrial sector, and been around since the 90s. And they offer from 1A to 63A, from simple monitoring to full control + the standard protections as normal breakers. While that is the case, If I did go for these, I would still go with the in line method as i said before. They seem to be a good option, BUT it is a product from China, so the big question is, would I trust it to work as intended? If only Shelly would increase it's product line past the 16A mark. Have a look urself if ur interested. elcb.net/product-category/smart-circuit-breaker/

2:17 Shellys should work with Homeassistant. They even show it at the end of this video

Late to reply, but ALL Shellys have been basically a drop-in and couple of clicks to setup inside Home Assistant for a few years, now. You don't even need a third-party script anymore.

Late to reply, but from the video and the documentation on the 2 Pro, it seems to be basically a DIN-mountable Shelly 2.5, with all its capabilities, plus all the other fun stuff that the ESP32 brings, like Ethernet and BT.

Yes, they mentioned it in the live

@@mon4e3yy Hi Monica, can you pls give me a link? I'd like to watch that. Thanks

you have the option set to follow rather than flip. You turn the light off with the app, then the switch has to be flipped to off position then to on position to make it work. Just change the option to flip. It is in the one pole video if you give it a watch

@@doccock100 Thank you got it. Going all in on Shelly. Hope for the best!

@@anandhaponnampalam shelly rgbw2 video and go to 4:06. the option is now called toggle or edge. You have yours set to toggle. Now change it to edge to do what you want. Of all the systems I would go all in on shelly if I was you. Its not the prettiest but the function, I think, is the best.

Don't need a 20A. The 20A breaker is usually for 80% which is 16A. And the 40A they do have now for the 4p

Hi, there. Late to reply, but I have only seen the video today. For higher currents you can use a contactor breaker. You replace the current circuit breaker with a same-rate contactor one, and connect the Shelly to the contactor. I've used this method for a "dumb" EV Charger that can pull over 16A. No Power Metering on that solution, though, unless you're using a Shelly EM specifically for it. Also, do keep in mind I'm in Europe. IMMV in the US.

They're not safety devices. The over power cutout feature is nice, but it's not a substitute for an overcurrent protective device. You will still need a circuit breaker.

a shelly pro is an array of relays fitted in a box that carry the same function as any other switching device, thus they are always placed behind a safety device like a circuit breaker.