After it bugged me for a few days, I decided to re assemble this thing. I did some research, watched a video, practiced many times and more or less got it figured out. Here's the reassembly video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IZ686KUBnR0.html
My shifter stoped working suddenly and when i went to the repair shop he told me this can't be repaired and have to buy a new one. I wasn't in a position to afford a new one. I search a lot to disassemble the shifter. You are the only one who could do it. Thank you brother!!!
Mine got a lot of sand in it and stopped working so I decided to clean it. I decided not to remove the cable. Reassembling this thing was difficult and took several tries but I managed to do it at the end and it works again. Thank you very much for this video!
I tried to repair my ST-EF41-7R. I removed all the parts and cleaned it with soap and water. After I've cleaned it, I was confuse and dont know where to begin in putting all the parts. You're video really help me in putting back the all the parts in right place. I put on a special grease for plastic gears and yes, it was working now like a brand new shifter. Thanks again.
I have the ST EF40 7R/3L and it is still going well after a couple years of light work. Even with 4 years of zero use on a 2013 mountain bike. Only adjustment I have made is the barrel on the rear.
I typically wouldn't tear one of these down for maintenance, but I had so many requests of how to rebuild this shifter, I made a video about it. I think infrequent use is where the EF40/41 shines. It doesn't gum up like the other shifters can from sitting. However, under heavy use, these units definitely don't hold up as well long term.
Sir, My right side gear switch (front gear 1234567) is not working, I have the same one. I am very confused what should I do, I can't afford new one. Please tell me can it be repaired easily or please suggest me any other way... Please...
Step 1 - If you have an exposed section of shift cable , usually it's exposed from a piece that's on the frame where your cable housing is hooked into. The other end goes to the shifter. anyway, pull on the cable and see if the front derailleur will manually go through the gears. Do this with the rear wheel elevated and rotating the pedals forward. if it shifts through the gears, the problem may be in the shifter. Step 2 - disconnect the cable from the front derailleur. With no tension on the shifter, will it make 2 audible clicks? if not the shifter is bad. If it does, you just need to adjust your cable tension. Worst case, you can turn the limit screw on your front derailleur marked L until the derailleur is locked into the middle ring and continue to ride the bike until you can buy a new shifter.
My front shifter broken. I disassembled it and there it is, white plastic cylindrical thing is broken. Unfortunately I have to replace it. I will look for more durable one because front takes a lot tension than rear one.
Can I cut out and use just the brake? I'm converting to single front chainring and don't have another brake I'm using:Shimano Acera 7 Speed ST EF500 EZfire STI Set Black, pls help
I am also planning to do the same thing. And yah it can be done. You can follow wheel_o_life96 on insta, or just dm... Love to connect with like minded people 😇😇
Hí I have a problem with this shifter. I turned the front derailleurs barrel adjuster way to much and now it wont shift. I wanted to take it out but I cant
From what it sounds like, you unthreaded the barrel adjuster too far out? If so, thread it back in if you can, reset the cable at the derailleur fixing bolt, and fine-tune the shifting with the barrel adjuster.
This is the lowest quality shifter Shimano makes. Get the ST-EF51 shifter for a few bucks more and be done with it. Most of the internals on these shifters are plastic and they just don't hold up well long term...
Could you remove the brake lever Actually my brake lever is broken .. But i couldn't figure it out how to open it, so that i can swap that out with a spare shifter
Hey man. It's the same for the right shifter as well? I ask cuz I'm about to remove the whole thing and just want to replace the cable but the right shifter doesn't have a rubber plug. @@JoeyMesa
It would be interesting to talk to the design engineer hear how they came up with a system like this. They have to consider assembly time as well as cost.
My guess is this shifter is machine built (actually I'd guess all Shimano shifters are). I'm pretty sure the concept of this shifter design wise is the least expensive rapid fire style shifter possible for light recreational use.
@@JoeyMesa If it's machine built It would be interesting to see the process in action, to see how it's programmed to assemble. Someone had to come up with a prototype that was capable of being machine built. Even the low end stuff these days is pretty cool. Just imagine this shifter with better grade materials.
Upon further review, it could definitely be assembled by hand on an assembly line type set up. I figured out how to put this thing back together after watching a video. I'm sure there's a few specific tools that make it pretty quick and simple. Shimano has been making fishing reels for a really long time, so I bet there's some carry over engineering wise from that as well.
Can you make a shifter/brake combo just a shifter? Remove all the brake components and have it solely for shifting? I have some nice brake levers and I also love the shifter
Not on this particular brake /shift lever. Shimano makes the shifters separately that are pretty inexpensive for the set, but 8 speed only as far as I know. Those have the same index points as a 7speed drivetrain, so they will work: amzn.to/2AL0A0D You can get some inexpensive 7 speed Shimano knock offs though: amzn.to/2AeLccS
@@JoeyMesa I have one more problem, I folded this handle and everything works nicely only when I change the gear, if I want to change from 1 to 2, it jumps to 7 at once, skipping all the gears, I don't know how to fix it. best regards.
This shifter is P.O.S. I’ve replaced the first one stock from the bike after two years of use and not even a year later I had complications with the second.. I decided to repair and disassemble to make adjustments and reassembled several times with springs popping parts all over and eventually found all pieces each time and had everything back in order yet it doesn’t work.. I’ve been trying to see if there’s a specific configuration of the inner gear alignment or what.. Thanks for making this video. It’s a shame that modernity of commercial products are made to be replaced not repaired… often times made to last long enough to sell then break and buy a new one in the disposable capitalist consumer society.. End of rant..
There is a plug on the opposite end of the shifter body where the cable exits the shifter. I made another video going over this shifter a couple years ago: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-61kc7Rk1Ky0.html
Yeah, just shift it all the way to the small cog or the highest numerical number on the gear indicator, disconnect the cable from the derailleur, remove the little rubber plug on the shifter that’s opposite of where the cable goes in, and push the cable out.
It's because they switched to "indexed shifting" a few decades back. My Freddie Grubb & Cinelli I raced on 1963/64 had exactly the simple levers you describe. Lever pulls a cable and you move it as much as you like (continuous, no clicking from one to the next). There was a thumbscrew you kept tight so's the cable don't pull it back again. This thumbscrew squeezed a thick plastic washer between the lever alloy and the alloy of the seat that bolted to the frame, so this thick plastic washer being squeezed gave friction to hold the cable where you had adjusted it to as the derailleur springs were trying to pull the cable back again. Dead simple but you have to ease it through the gear sprockets and then fine tune it to centre on the sprocket so it ain't rattling every single time you change front or rear derailleur. It's a skill we learned to do as we rode & raced. The "Indexed" (I think invented by Shimano, SIS = Shimano Indexed Shifting) they use now clicks the cable == precisely == one space from one sprocket dead centre to next sprocket dead centre so it changes many times faster with precision than our 1960s simple levers, but it makes the mechanism real complicated with the pawl (dog) & teeth & return springs and whatnot. So then, much better, faster, more accurate shifters now than the 1960s but massively more complicated to maintain and they break far more easily. The other thing is back in 1963 we had 5 sprockets (all road bikes were called "10 speeds" to indicate a "racing" style, not touring) and they've steadily gone to 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 (I think) over decades so the sprocket spacing is getting much smaller so it need fancy mechanisms to get the chain quickly == centred == on the sprocket. Especially if you're racing you don't want the chain rattling half off a sprocket while you fiddle with it like the old, simple continuous-lever-pull type.
Those small white plastic pieces are the only reason this such a bad design if one gets damaged then shifter is useless. I have the same model when i damaged,i opened it completely and then also Packed it again.
Probably. The brake lever body is basically one piece with the shifter base. You could cut the brake lever off with a hacksaw. I feel like the path of least resistance would be to purchase an individual shifter or the set. A nicer 7 speed Shimano shifter is under $18 and would be much more durable long term. amzn.to/2FUdXhR
