I also have other problems, can you help me? i don't know how to place the carrier spring oil which is in the mechanical part of the povver engine thank you 1000
You mention 420 to 405 meaning there is a 15 T of wear, then you want to go 3/4 of and inch. Where you get to need a 10 T shim? Thank you for the video.
With the amount of backlash that was in the machine, I figured it would need the thicker shim so that's what I had out for the video. We can be fairly busy in here at times so I finished the gib with the thicker shim so that the camera person could get back to her real job. That gave me time to get the proper size shim onto the gib for the end of the video.
Sorry Mr. Steve it is Gib. How much wear can there be before you replace your Gibs? Both of mine have pretty deep groves worn into them. thanks for the video.
It really shouldn't matter if you have deep grooves as long as it still has adjustment on it. You really don't need to worry about shimming them until they are completely bottomed out when you are trying to adjust them. Give me a call if you have any other questions and myself or one of the guys can talk to you. 1-800-285-5271.
Great Vid! I used it! BUT, if you ran the table all the way to its right, wouldnt it be easier ( no long screwdriver needed) to reach the adjustsing screw...................? Just asking
After you are done with the shimming and need to adjust it you need to have the table back in the position that you normally use it. Most people use it in the middle and it makes it much easier to adjust with a longer screwdriver. I'm sure many people manage without it, but we showcase how we do it and how we think it is easiest.
Could you say the model of the wiss scissors are , couldn't see them now. Not thought of shimming a gib but just bought an M300 lathe that needs it. Thanks.
good evening I hope you remember me I'm Valter from Naples Italy I saw your movie courteously could you tell me what kind of sheet metal you use and thickness ? Thank you
We use a steel shim stock. The thickness is going to depend on how much play you have in your machine. If you email me I can send you a set of written instructions so you can translate them easier: support@hwmachinerepair.com
How do you adjust the machine if the Z axis is off in the Y direction? I'm guessing you need to adjust the knee? I'm getting .030" depth difference in 7" of travel along the Y axis.
It's possible that you may just have some wear in the column. There are things that you can do to check but it's to much for a RU-vid comment. If you want to call and either ask for Barry or Zack and we can walk you though it.
@@HWMachRepair thanks. I didn’t realize there’s a gin on the knee (hopefully since I’m away from work atm). Hopefully going to have someone adjust it. Thanks for the offer!!
My BP X axis is very loose in center. If gib adjusted THERE, table goes dead tight very soon after moving table. Yes, so the ways are worn in the center of travel. Any way to correct ?
Unfortunately, this is usually caused by worn ways. The only things that you can do are adjust the gibs the best that you can, which is still going to be a little tight in some areas and loose in others. You can also get a set of ballscrews, which will allow you to push through the tightness more easily. The last and also most expensive would be to get the table, saddle, and knee reworked. Sorry it's not going to be an easy fix, you can give us a call if you have any questions: 1-800-285-5271
@@smarty7364 That isn't something we can help with on this platform. Please give us a call at 1-800-285-5271 or 260-422-0020 and we can help you over the phone.
No one clicked down thumbs. I am a wanta be machinist - but I am a master draftsman. I don't comprehend trying to bring a machine spec into tolerance with such a butcher (meat cutter) approach. Your marks & cuts are guaranteed to be within 1/8" plus or minus & your shim is within 0.003 of what is actually needed. Not sure what you are producing with this mill but do question what tolerance you guarantee you customers??? On the other side of us beginners viewings, I am watching an apprentice chase his tail with endless scraping to bring his machine into perfect tolerance (& no intro as to what he had to start with). Can you bring these counter perspectives together for us, the wanta know group of beginners? I do intend to ask the opposing vicar in my quandary the same (he has simply dragged on oh so close to the point of - well he is so far from achieving his goal that I just can't....after all what do I know & I'm simply trying to learn.
I am not sure you understand what this video is about. It has nothing to do with rebuilding a mill, the shim is nothing more than a patch in order to remove some slop in the ways until you are able to get your machine properly rebuilt. When we rebuild a machine we regrind all way surfaces to flat and straight, build up the ways with Turkite to return them to original height and hand scrape the surfaces to flat and straight to less than .0005". We then hand scrape the gibs to proper fit with no shims.
Scraping a mill costs 1000s. It depends on how accurate you need your machine to be. I have a worn out mill I use for face cutting steel blocks and I keep my newer mill for more accurate work
Our educational system continues to produce people who "know" lots in theory but understand very little of how things actually work. I suspect your draftsman mastery would be substantially improved by a stint in a machine shop making things - you might see the world in a wildly different light.
