I am in the US, and most of my shoes are made in Wisconsin by Allen Edmonds. They are like some other manufacturers in that they have moved some of the manufacturing overseas, but the bulk of their traditional dress shoe and boot lines are built here in the States. (They have a factory in The Dominican Republic that does hand sewing, and some of their blake and top down stitched shoes are made in Italy). Allen Edmonds isn't the top of the line of shoes made in the world, or even in the USA, but they are certainly very good. Handcrafted through 212 steps, Goodyear welted, premium full and top grain leathers (typically), and importantly with enormous range of sizes and widths. You get a very good product, which with care will last decades. There are all good reasons, but there is one more. One that I think applies to all of your viewers. It is that by buying shoes from that brand, I am helping keep that kind of craft in my own country. Sure, you can ship good products to low cost of living countries and teach them how to make good shoes, but that only hastens the end of such work at home. It matters to me that various traditional crafts remain a part of our employment world. Not everyone wants to work in a high tech field. Keeping craftsmanship in our home countries requires us to purchase from those companies.
I agree with you janerkenbrack3373. I live just 40 minutes away from the Allen Edmonds factory in Port Washington WI. I like to wear a good, quality product like these shoes, Made in USA. The older I get, the more I want to know from where a product is coming from. I have shoes from British manufacturers but the bulk of my shoes is from AE.
! 100% agree with you sir. It is very important that we retain our craft and heritage industries. Support local quality where we can. If we don't , it will become another aspect of lost sovereignity in our respective countries.
Just picked up my first pair of Barker shoes yesterday while im here in the uk. Have been shopping for something quality in Australia for a while now and nothing is of the quality. The first instant my foot was in these barker shoes at their factory i could instantly tell the difference.
I converted from the cheap shoes to the quality shoe aisle over the course of the last 6 months. I can feel the quality difference when I walk in these good shoes. My feet feel better and it is more comfortable to be in the shoes all day long. I agree with Ash, that the full grain leather is much more accepting of shoe cream and wax. Also the shine looks much better and is longer lasting. I wear Allen Edmonds, Trickers, Loake, Grenson and Cheaney. I bought them mostly on eBay as new or pre-owned and have never paid the full retail price. I rather own only 1 or 2 of these quality shoes than going back to the cheap, cemented shoes from a department store.
Ive been a convert for 7 or so years. My Grandfather always had quality shoes and I was sick of store shoes cracking and splitting. All of mine are: sale, factory outlet or ebay (little use or foot impression left by previous). Cheap shoes wear out, quality shoes wear in.
Most interesting video. I’ve lived around Northampton all my life, and even worked in shoe factories (as a contractor electrician) about 40 odd years ago. Old boys working there like you said for decades and all their working lives, and different family members etc. Such a shame so many have closed due to cheap ‘average’ quality imports. They call it progress !! Just subscribed btw.
Funny thing about Clarks, for me at least, is that it is the first ever “quality” shoe brand I was introduced to by my brother 18 years ago. I suppose all things are relative. Before that I don’t remember where I got my non-athletic shoes, probably just whatever I could find here or there without really getting into a particular brand. Over the years I have had probably close to 10 pairs (all made in China or other Asian countries and none in the UK) that I bought from an outlet store in America and I really have been quite pleased with the experience. Only since about 2-3 years ago have I gotten the knowledge of the construction and brand of truly high end shoes. And with my newly gained knowledge now I know that Clarks is actually sneered at by shoe aficionados. I think all of my Clarks have/had cemented soles. None ever came apart. All have lasted nearly 10 years or more. I only remember one pair that failed by the rubber sole developing cracks and letting water in, after at least 5-6 years of service. They have all been supremely comfortable. At least a couple pairs were given up on because the rubber soles wore smooth and became unsafe on slippery surfaces. To say that Clarks shoes are no longer worth it may not be totally fair. In terms of value I think I never paid for more than $60 a pair and many for much less. My Clarks have lasted me so long and I still think that the prospect of lifetime shoes could be a little boring. Certainly now I am beginning to appreciate the benefits of excellent workmanship and the value to keep shoes for, nearly a lifetime. However, now I work from home and only go out perhaps 3 days a week my 15+ pairs of athletic shoes and several pairs of Clarks can last me another 15 years into my retirement. I haven’t found justification to spend $300 and above for footwear. In my recent craze of watching boot content on RU-vid I learned about the likes of Red Wing but still don’t want to spend that kind of money. In the Black Friday period I finally bought a pair of J Crew Kenton Pacer boots for $170. That is my first pair ever of pseudo higher quality construction footwear. It already satisfied my whims so I think I’m good for a long while.
I have a number of good quality British shoes and boots all purchased in charity shops at great prices. Last week got a pair of Black Thursday boots, an American brand brand new for 7 pounds.
I live in New York City. I generally buy Allen Edmunds or Alden shoes. Great brands for quality shoes. Crocket and Jones is having a sale now during the holiday season so I’ll stop in and see if there’s anything there that I like. 🍻
Excellent video Ash. The mention of the last is a key point, with which I completely agree. I’d recommend paying close attention to finding a last which matches one’s foot shape, makes such a difference.
Hi Ash, many thanks for this video, I cannot agree more. The only thing I like to add, as an advice for your shoes to last a lifetime, is to never ever wear them for more than one day. Use shoe trees and leave at least one day between wearing them again. I personally own a few couples of shoes that are now almost 30 years old. Quality pays itself back. Keep on posting more of these videos please as I cannot get enough of these!😊
I have had Church shoes which have lasted me a good 20 years. A few tips, is to keep them well polished so that the leather does not dry up and crack, keep them in a good pair of shoe trees and give them a 24 hrs break before wearing them again. A good shoe is an investment in your health.
Another excellent video Ash such s pleasure to watch.yesterday I purchased a pair of seconds loake 1880 dark brown country Chester shoes for half price at £140 all because a minute defect.I’ve moved up to loake because Dune & other high street brands tend not to do half sizes either.first time out of the box they look great and feel very comfortable.
Picked up two pairs of Tricker's boots during the recent sale. They are indeed, boots that you'll use for life. Impeccable craftsmanship and very hard wearing. I believe William Lennon also makes very good, hard wearing footwear. Looking to get a pair of those next.
I agree, good quality shoes are very important! Its like car tyres, a £15 tyre is not worth it, it puts people's lives at risk! Where as £250 tyres are way better. Like with shoes, £15 shoes can cause medical problems in the long run, where as £400 shoes are better for one's feet and lessens the possible medical problems. Like with quality car tyres and shoes work out cheaper in the long run! Here in NZ we can by shoes for $25 that may last for three months - over 12 months $100, over ten years, $1,000. Loake shoes around $600 (1889) are way better! I like to add, cheap shoes don't normally have arch support as to the quality shoes!
I've got a couple of pairs of Barker GYW shoes (a black leather Oxford I hardly wear now, and brouges I recently brought for work in the office in the summer). I used to wear Clarks to the office because I commute into London from Surrey, and the walk to the office can be quite hard on the soles. Typically, the Clarks would last about a year of being worn twice a week. This year, they lasted 3 months before the heels fell apart. Similarly, a pair of Clarks goretex boots fell apart after just 30 wears!. Furthermore, the price has gone way up (I used to get them in the Clarks outlet for about £30-40, now they are all over £50). I'm switching to all GYW shoes, and because I've had to buy quite a few pairs recently (due to the Clarks not lasting), I've had to look for some cheaper options. I've just brought some Loake Seconds Aquarius Boots for £110, and as a bit of an experiment, I have purchase some Samuel Windsor Chelsea Boots for £50. Samuel Windsor are making goodyear welted boots in India, but from corrected grain leather. They are not really worth resoling, but may work for my needs because they can still be reheeled and it's the heels that always go first for me. Loake are making their 'design' range in India anyway, at least unlike Loake, Samuel Windsor are charging a more appropriate price for that kind of cheaper labour. What will let them down for sure is that leather, but one of my pairs of barkers also isn't full grain (the Oxfords are the hi-shine range, I didn't do my research before buying that pair 5 years ago!)
you must have enough full leather shoes to rotate.with shoe shining schedule kept in a shoe tree individual cotton shoe bags recognize when to remove the prior wax from a shoe and recognize what condition your shoes are in and apply the properly restoration products i like saphir
I took the plunge and bought a pair of Loake brown Chatsworth Chelsea boots last year from The Brogue Trader in Cardiff. UK made, they took a little bit of breaking in, but I love them so much I bought myself another pair in black for more formal occasions or dark suits. Barker are another excellent company.
I purchased a number of Church's shoes many years ago in Chicago. Remember to condition your leather, rotate and use shoe trees. That is what makes good shoes last a long time.
Construction wise I have a pair of shoes from a Italian brand named "Velasca" which I think they have a store in London if you want to try some of their products. I have a single monk strap called the "Garzon" which I liked for a while, got it on sale. The only difference is that rapid has a mid-sole & the out-sole stitch around the mid-sole ends like a welt. This is suppose to give it more resole & water resistant the normal Blake stitch. 1 downside I think is that you can feel the stitching in the insole. I can feel it when I'm stationary it's a weird feeling not good or bad. The break-in i find no different from a GY shoe even though people say Blake stitch is easier to break in. There is also stitch down where the uppers ends are flare out & stitch right on the out-sole, this is more for rugged shoes like hiking boots which I also got from Velasca. Again this is for more casual footwear like work or hiking boots. Difference sources have conflicting accounts if this method is more or less water proof & the numbers of resoles. there is another method more recent like on sneakers but where it's a glued shoe but the sides of the outsole is stitched. Like my bean boot for example. the entire bottom is rubber but the upper is both glued & stitch & to resole them properly you have to send them back, luckily I have a store near me to send them back for resole recently for around $45. it's not a everyday shoe , I most likely wear them out faster if did. It's more for snow or rain like hunter wellies in the U.K. For sneakers like Crown Northampton does this method & have their own resole program but I don't think the local cobbler can really resole that type of sneaker. I think Goodyear welt is the best option for both casual and dress footwear. like every cobbler can resole a GY welt & the welt can be replace if heavily worn out. I hope most of my GY shoes last me as long as king Charles does. For one of the most richest man on earth who can easily toss away old stuff but choose not to & get it repaired if possible which is commendable.
For the SA boots, think Velt Squins (almost Felt Squins), I used to live in them as a kid, my mum was from Cape Town originally. But it cheers my heart to find they're still around, and that you've picked up on them :-) As for Clarks, for around the same money, Loake seconds are a far better investment imho.
Ash you are a Real Chap Sir ….. been subscriber since your initial days and glad to see that channel is growing. Visiting UK 🇬🇧 in a month or so and surely I m heading to Northampton to check out and shop a pair or two of 👞 I will be most likely stopping by at C&J , Trickers , Church’s and Chaeney etc as Edward Green & John Lobb seems to be out of budget 😅
Great vid Ash. On the point of resoling , and the number of times it can be done on a proper shoe. I’d say, after resoling a few, ‘ if the welt is renewed by hand and the old stitch holes in the upper are re used, a shoe can be resoled effectively as many times as you like.
Other than the actual welt to outsole stitch, which really needs to be done on an outsole stitching machine, it's fairly easy to resole a goodyear welted shoe yourself. Good components are not expensive and if you are a pretty craft competent chap, with a couple of modest tools, you can do as good a job as any standard cobbler. I've done three pairs and my work is as good as any I've come across. I do have to rely on a friendly cobbler to stitch the sole to the welt though, he is kind enough to do that one operation for the price of a couple of pints. @@darbyheavey406
My son-in-law bought a pair of black cap toes some years ago. They are an American brand called Denton which mercifully no longer exists. The shoes are cheap, poor quality with terrible leather. I gave him the same shoe by Allen Edmonds and even polished them for him (mirror shine). They are visiting for Christmas and I had him bring his Dentons. I used Saphir Renovat and black shoe cream, and a couple coats of Saphir Medaille D'Or, and am now mirror shining them. The leather is uneven and has small flaws, but with many coats of Saphir Mirror Shine, they are starting to actually get a proper shine. It will take more time, but I promised him a miracle, and I know I can deliver. I buy mostly Allen Edmonds and always on ebay. Some gorgeous shoes. A couple will soon need new soles, but are well worth it.
I used to have cheap shoes. Yes, inner sole made from vinyl, plastic sole… cardboard heels. On one pair they got slightly damp and one heel fell off. On another pair the entire sole fell off. Then I moved on to Dune and Russell & Bromley. Both were Blake stitched and had a fake welt which was meant to make them look like Goodyear welted ones. Then Loake Design from TK Maxx and then moved up, saving money by buying Loake seconds in Cambridge (there is a shop there). Then I found out that even the 1880 wasn’t made entirely in the UK and started to buy Tricker’s.
Hi, I just got two pair of shoes from India, the fellow said these were manufactured for Clarke's in the UK. It was inexpensive and for my rare urban use, will suffice. 😅
Some of Loake’s sub 1880 tier shoes are still marketed as ‘Made in England’. This was previously called the ‘Shoemaker’ range and was priced at 75% of the 1880 range. These shoes generally use lower quality corrected grain leathers. Honestly, not worth it unless you are a fan of a particular style or can pick them up at a discount - the step down from 1880 in leather quality and construction is stark after prolonged wear in my opinion.
I agree. I have owned ‘Shoemakers’ grade shoes and they are a world away from the level of 1880. I only recommend buying 1880 range shoes/boots from the Loake collection.
Agreed re: Clarks. Their "Clarks Originals" line i.e. desert boots, Wallabees, desert treks and so on are probably the best they make now but they're selling them all over the world, like Dr. Martens or Timberlands. There is really no reason to buy anything else from Clarks now & not even for children. My niece's school shoes from Clarks weren't exactly cheap and not only did they fall apart very quickly but the leather was like the cheapest stuff you find from Nike & she'd scrape off the top layer just playing
What people should really consider is that quality like price is a spectrum and not a binary. Ash covers well some of the aspects of judging quality based on one’s own priorities: construction, leather type and source, fit, and design are all components to consider and must be tempered with expectations relative to price. Handmade shoes cost more because you are paying for skill and labor (which will depend on where it is built).
I wish we had a culture of high end shoe making around here; even the men's clothing stores just sells one or two brands and none from England. I would have a $500 pair of shoes if I could buy local and know that a factory could resole them. We do have two independent shoe repair shops, but I've only used one for sewing other things. . I am very reluctant to mail order as the fit can vary from brand to brand. The only reason I have a pair of Allen Edmonds was not so much that they were used, but rather that I got to try them on at the local thrift store where I bought them. Like a watch, it just seems right that as a man gets up there in age, he should have a pair (ideally two) of shoes that will last him for the rest of his life.
Good oratory and advice, as usual. In the past year, I moved over to Allen Edmonds, a quality shoe manufacturer in the United States, and have been happy with them. I had been wearing Johnston and Murphy and Bostonian since the early 90's but unfortunately, they are no longer quality and made overseas and inferior.
Great stuff Chap. I think they make some pretty good shoes in Mallorca too. Goodyear welted vs Blake stitched handmade shoes, I wear goodyear in the wet season and outdoor activity and blake in summer and office hours. The quality of the stitch thread that hold the sole is of high importance, I sadly see some shoemakers going down in quality to save money. The best brands use a hot waxed thread. All the best.
My go to daily boots are normally Loake or R M Williams. I was so angry with myself when moving house that I accidentally threw away a pair of 15 year old RM Williams boots. I find good footwear improve with age.
Ash, do you have any experience or opinions on the NPS Essential Collection, manufacturered in Northamptonshire? I know that their Solovair shoes are fairly well received, but I haven't seen any reviews of their dressier shoes. I didn't have time to take a look at them when I was in England and I'm still curious about them as they're not especially cheap or incredibly expensive and don't seem to be widely discussed online.
Sadly I have yet to experience anything from NPS. I really am not drawn to their clunky soles to be honest. They have a strong following, but they don't really enter my orbit of style - sorry.
I've a blake stitch loafer and the price to restitch them is more expensive than the retail price I bought the shoe for. So a bit of a conundrum for me
Loakes are good, Cheaney is better but then there is a completely different level where the nonsense starts. Edward Green, John Lobb, Church's or Gaziano and Girling for example along with a number of "designer" brands. These aren't bad shoes but they are seriously not significantly better than many others. I was told when I was boy that we were too poor to buy cheap shoes and I've stuck to that but that doesn't mean that a high price will always deliver value. Grenson for example make some really good shoes but are not prohibitively expensive. Do your research and buy wisely. Don't follow names, follow quality and value.
It is very difficult to buy quality shoes online. Size variations and comfort levels are the main issues. My size is 8 but for some companies like Edward Green and Crocket and Jones sizes, I need size 7.5 but a bit Tight fit.
I plan to buy a Loake ROYAL Derby Brogue Double Leather Sole F-Medium (Burgundy). Is it superior to a low-end 1880 like the STRAND? I'm buying mainly for durability.
I don't agree regarding the comfort. Today people are buying cheap shoes because they are more comfortable than Goodyear welted ones. Trickers shoes are just heavy, clunky and chunky, feeling like a brick. There are blaked stiched Clarks costing £80 and they are comfortable and light.
@TheChapsGuide: I think a personal attack does not help. I think you agree with me that using facts and arguments are better. @brunokoch672: Goodyear welted shoes need to be broken in. At the beginning, they are stiffer than cheap shoes. Some people would even say uncomfortable. These shoes need up to 40 hours of accumulated wearing time to shape to your foot. Cheap shoes do not do need this step because they are made from softer and less expensive material. This might be the reason why you think that cheap shoes are better.
I wore Bass shoes for years but their quality went bad. I bought a $40 pair of used Allen Edmonds cleaned them up, went to work on them with Saphir products. Used expensive shoes trump cheap new shoes in every way.
As a Canadian I have a question about your fire. How'd you get it to not blow its smoke in your direction? No matter which side I sit on, the smoke finds me, even when upwind during a gale. All kidding aside, I enjoy your content and find it very informative.
If someone ist looking for a lifetime boot, he should look after pacific north west workboot brands like Nicks or whites. Sadly they only build boots...
Great video, Ash. For me, the first consideration is a shoe that fits my foot shape. So far, I find that Loake are a good fit. I am planning to venture to some of those "city's" that I hear about and walk a little further along the counter and try on some Cheaney, Tricker's etc Keep up the good work and Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Hey Ash i recently bought my first pair of cheaney boots. Actually a pair for myself and a pair for my partner. My partners were sent back in disgust the quality was appalling the boots didnt even match. I kept mine as they were just bought for bad weather use but the quality is far below any of the loake 1880s i own mis shapen toe box on one boot and big gap in the heel lamination on the other. I dont doubt they used to be top notch but Cheaney have let themselves go in my opinion.
There is no comparison between Loake and Cheney, despite the bad example you have sadly encountered. Whilst I like Loake and own many, many pairs, they are undeniably a mass produced shoe brand and even their highest offering, is only modestly well made. Cheaney are leagues ahead in work quality and component quality.
what are your thoughts on some of the shoemakers in Pakistan? I have bought a leather coat from one and it will outlive me,but know nothing ofthe shoes.For years,I have been wearing Allen Edmonds,each pair last me a decade or more
@@TheChapsGuide Thank you.After I watched this great video,I went to an online resale venue,and found a pair of brown Royal Tweed Cheaney derby's in my size (12 B0,for not much.They look in hardly worn condition,so decided to buy them and give them a try,but yes,I have been happy with Allen Edmonds over the years,although they have discontinued some styles,like the kiltie tassled brouge loafers.I used to wear those in the 80's,and still have a pair.
@@TheChapsGuide ,thanks,I will.However,after much back and forth with the owner,I just bought my very first pair of proper English shoes in my size,they are Crockett and Jonesx George Cleverly brogue Balmoral Oxfords,in a dark brown.They look never or hardly worn,for about $225,which is about what I would have paid for a new pair of AE's.I do thank you for th knowledge and experience you have shared.I think these will last me a few years and look sharp with some tan or beige wool slacks and a blue blazer and white shirt.Thanks again
Because you spend your life either wearing shoes or lying in bed, it makes no sense whatsoever to skimp on the quality of either of these purchases. I took your advice, Ash, and did some Ebay shopping for shoes just the other day, and I managed to purchase a pair of Allen Edmonds brown wingtip Oxfords, and a pair of Allen Edmonds brown tassel loafers -both in size 12 EEE- for about half of what I would have to pay at full retail. Both appear to be almost new, with no visible scuffs, and minimum wear on the soles as well. As you have said frequently, shoes are the foundation of one's outfit, and a poor quality pair can ruin an otherwise attractive ensemble. Another reason to invest in quality shoes: women definitely notice men's shoes, and will often form "first impressions" of the men they encounter based on the appearance of their footwear.
Have to disagree with spending at least or more on Shoes than your Suits. I wear Oxxford Clothes Suits which have a RRP of $9k here in Australia. My Church's Custom, Vass, Barker Handcrafted are perfectly fine at a fraction of the cost of my Suits. No need for me to spend 9K on Shoes. A person buying a bare minimum dress shoe such as a Loake 1880 an equivalent priced Suit will be rubbish @ RRP, poor fabrics, fused, poorly manufactured. if your'e buying quality Shoes, don't skimp on Suit quality. Otherwise your advice is good. Cheers.