Shooting F1.4 and STOP Camera & Lens Blur !!! 

I absolutely love how you explain things, it’s easy to understand and really friendly. This was rather informative as I had some similar problems with back focusing when shooting wide open. Keep up the good work!

I saw another video that shooting wide open you smooth the models skin. It is better to stop down the aperture. The problem is why you spend extra money to buy a fast lens if you are going to shoot at f2.8 or f4.

Had exactly the same problems with focusing on my Nikon D7000.

When I'm not time limited, I switch to manual focus mode and pay attention to the color fringes the focusing assistant turns on in my area of interest.

This definitely a good lesson. Finding a problem and working thru it. Without processing with an editor, what do you do to make these photos look better when its hazy outside like this?

this is fantastic, nice tips

Andrew, can you fo more mirrorless photography tutorial?

I always like your videos.. and often go back to some of them. However, I particularly loved your problem-solving section.

Thank u

You can always go Old Skool...Manual Focus!!

Superb 👌

Interesting video. In my opinion are all the photos blurry to me. Try an other camera and see the difference. Yest you have to Kalibrate the lenses. Hope to see a new video with clear and sharp portraits

Hi, Andrew, would you please teach us more about how to shoot contrast focusing method because the way you took the shot was sharper than traditional phrase focusing method on Nikon apsc DSLR cameras. Thank you!

DSLRs are notorius for having viewfinder phase focusing not aligned with contrast or dual pixel (live view) focusing. If live view was easy to use for flying birds, and if it didnt drain the battery quickly, I'd shoot live view all the time for accurate focusing or adjust the lens focus calibration in camera which changes the viewfinder focusing to match it with live view. The only thing is not all cameras offer such focus fine-tuning feature.

Great video!

They use black mist filter

Now, I might have to upgrade…

Super

MANUAL FOCUS is the right answer!!!! If it is still blurry, change your contact lens, or get eyeglasses. Why doesn't camera makers make SPLIT PRISM anymore for manual focusing? That is really good for film cameras. They should have it on DSLRs/MILCs.

lol sorry but I have to say the problem is the Nikon camera !!! I had that issues so many times ...

Could not understand much

That Z fc is sexy... 🤩

It is bad. Like very bad.

conclusion: at least buy a z 5 or z6

Spent too much time explaining to the point I got even out focus sorry I got even blurred than before I first watched your. ❤❤❤ video

If you look at the fine yellowish lines at the border of her iris, if it is not a effect of a contact lens then this girl need to consult a doctor, could be a very high level of cholesterol.

Its like an impressionist painting background shooting at 1.4...shooting in the live mode zoom in to the eyes and watch the screen for amazing results (Zeiss 85mm)

"Conclusion? this girl has blurry eyes" I spat my drink out, good belly laugh.

If you want to keep working with Haylynn, I'm sure there won't be any complaints. She looks very much like a fashion model, and she poses well, too. It certainly has become popular to shoot wide open to get all the bokeh one can. But the main subject does need to be sharp. I haven't done a focus test in a while. Maybe I should do that. I'm going to start shooting my mirrorless camera more, so - two focus tests, coming up! Thanks for another helpful video.

Thank you for sharing video,,,good

Blurring a background to where it's indistinguishable most of the time makes precious little sense to me. Then why make the effort of choosing a beautiful location only to blur the f**k out of it, making it just a wash of blurry color? I already hear some of you going "That's my style. It makes my subject stand out and looks really beautiful." I counter with you can blur a background but it doesn't always have to be blurred to oblivion. Choosing a gorgeous location and blurring it to colorful soup is illogical at best. It's a very one-trick-pony way of shooting everything. Nothing wrong with blur but the level of blur a lot of you want in your images is just ridiculous to me.

You make photography as simple as cooking with Wok with Yan. Looking forward to signing-up on your premium courses soon.

Quick question, is it the camera or the lens that goes out of calibration? Oh for the days of split screen manual focus SLRs where you did your own focusing and nothing was faster or more accurate.

Technology helps Make us work better and easier… given an option I will buy mirrorless camera.

She is an angel, that's why she is blury :)) Dreamy girl :))

Also make sure it's not on AF-C. Yes I did that like an idiot and each recompose was a refocus. Easy to miss these things without the reading glasses 🤣

Sony has perfect eye autofocus even with 50mm F1.2 (e.g. Sony A1, Sony A7IV)

I like your video but still get some flash technique

Andrew, just do not forget that in APS-C the depth of field equivalent of f/1.8 is f/2.8 already. If you use f/2.8 it will be more than f/4 equivalent

You should say more about why calibration wont help. Or maybe demonstrate it.

That's exactly how I ended up with a mirrorless camera:)

I dont have whatever problem u are showing.

Oh crap, the reason for your poor focus is the drab background for your composures, and the paleness of your model (although she is cute). Therefore the problem is the camera's battle with contrast. Geez, your results are poor considering the cost of your equipment. However, thanks for trying.

Excellent info and video

Trade it in for a Canon, blurry will be gone. Lol really great videos keep up the good work very informative and if you ever stop being a photographer you could be a stand-up comedian very funny😅

Andrew you're a very good teacher and funny too. Love you man...

You never run out of beautiful photo models 🎬💃📸😋🤳💯 for sure out of focus now🥰🤪📸lol..😁 This is a good example that if you take a macro shoot and lock the focus on an object how easy it is to get out of focus if you can not keep the camera still.

Simple solution is to shoot in manual focus.

Of course, we old guys will simply manually focus on the point of greatest interest.

I am studio photographer make a video 35mm.1.8 vs 50mm 1.8

Thank you so much Sir Andrew, i watched this show for 3 times just to make sure i dont forget . You are one of the best on youtube. Love your teaching .

What was your camera u were using for this shoot?

i ve been shooting for more than 7 years with all my cameras and lenses around f1.2 and 1.8, it is not as bad as presented. I buy an expense lense to shoot as wide as open possible. So i woulnd t buy a lens to shoot above 2.8. In real world of photography 1.2 works just fine if you practice.

I have found the same thing with the Pentax k-3 I have. At 1.4 shooting through the eyepiece it just a little less sharp than shooting with live view. And at any rate, having a model with eyes as beautiful as those blurry would be a crime! 🙂

Reminded of the time when i shot with one of my friends camera, and the entire viewfinder was blurred up no matter where the lens was looking at, took me a while to discover that the viewfinder's diopter could be adjusted and it was off by a lot.

GOOD LEASON I LIKE YOUR EXPLANATION AND YOUR SMILE LOL

This is the worse episode I have watched from you Andrew yeah sure shooting at the widest aperture can be tricky and im sure you know how to make it right. In this video you showed that it can't be done with a dslr which is ridiculous, instead you fixed the problem by shifting to a mirrorless camera totally insane. Bad episode Andrew. 😔

You should try a Fujifilm X-T3 ... What a JOY to work with! I have self used Nikon for 15 years, but just shifted, I should have doing this for years ago, much better pictures. I mainly use ISO 100 or even ISO 80 ... With no problem at all.

Superb content!

Awesome tutorial breakdown how to shoot without blur. The model look gorgeous

Unless the lens has been calibrated to the Nikon body, that is very possibly the reason why you are getting soft results 1.4. In this instance you are back focusing, and it's easily corrected. It was sharp on her hair/ear. Both my D7000 and D850 needed to be calibrated to the lens and it made a huge difference and has nothing to do with the age of the camera.

So how to get sharp photos on old cameras?

That is way i buy mirorrles camera .

Hahahaha yes! Focus and... Oh noo not again ahhahaha 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂 omg! Super awesome!

That was a wonderful lesson, Sir. I have faced such problems with the 1.4 Lens. This video is very helpful. Thanks so muuch.

I use back button focus, no issues's then....

Great video but now I am confused. focusing use viewfinder vs LCD screen which is better?

I would say find a location for the light, as at F1.0-F2.8 the background is irrelevant as so out of focus. I do a general composure, focus, then shoot. As in post processing you can adjust minor composition issues. Then I only manual focus.

I really love your videos, but IMHO this time it is far away from the spot. Maybe you should use state-of-the-art cameras from Olympus or even Sony, which have eye focus detection. Furthermore, the lenses, especially the Olympus Pro lenses, are absolutely sharp even at f1.2. But, if you want to be out of focus, try to focus manually. ;-)

now I have a reason to buy one mirrorless camera 😁

hi Andrew and team... nice comprehensive presentation in rainy day... good explanation with different cameras and lenses.. stay blessed.. .. always have chance to learn new..😍😍😍

He is too behind technology, still focus, recompose.

Really interesting video. Great model too. Love the interaction you get with your models😊👍

I am going to tell your wife ha ha

Hahahaha nice background! I guess hahaha 🤣 you made my day

GREAT INFO! Shooting wide open for portraits is great for blurring out the backgrounds, but you explain how to focus on the eyes! Thanks...

💖💖💖

What I could understand myself... I checked the pictures with the Nikon D7200 and Nikon Z50... The same results that the lens wide open, Nikon 50mm F1.8 and Yongnuo 35mm F2 are not sharp and stopped down to 2.8 they are not sharper than the Sigma 17-50mm F2.8. Resume, only very expensive lenses or the new Viltrox prime lenses are wide open sharp! That you need to calibrate the lenses is safer, and your old camera is good for the Junk My old Nikon D7200 didn't change the calibration.

You're explanation always great...👌

You speak like jackie chan

How old will your camera be when it's focusing out of place? More than 5 years?

Love how he teaches. He got great sense of humor so it is not boring to learn

When you have to shoot portraits with a blurry background why not stopping down and getting closer to the subject, or making your shuttle speed lower and stopping down as as much as you can with a higher ISO level?!! Focusing isn't a problem for a portrait if you keep your depth of field in knowledge as to where to focus and how much will be in focus!! For example, if you focus between the the eye and the ear you get away with out of focus nose to back of the head even with a wide aperture!! But still to be on the safe side one must stop down to remain sharp all and all and the last but not the least why we always try to take pictures with a blurry background when there's wonderful background around and I mean the atmospheric portraits are sometimes great like the one you have here with a rainy day and everything was under the vail of soft blanket of atmosphere!!

So not shooting in the low f number like 1.4.... 🤔 hows that most photographers do shoot portraits in those f1.2, .4,.8 2 numbers? And they are still sharp with no so good cameras 🤷🏽‍♂️

Today's digital equipment is so sharp it surgical. That's OK for commercial work I guess but for personal work I use older cameras and lenses where I actually have better control. Some of it 40 year old Nikon, I can still get tack sharp if I need it but I can still control other looks.

… so the lesson we learned is that your camera needs calibrated?

Nice one Sensei!

Great lesson, thanks.

A DSLR camera body needs calibrating for front focus or back focus issues on a per lens basis, if the body supports entering an offset. In my experience, it is a very tedious process and requires a methodical and meticulous approach. This is one reason why I switched to a mirrorless body, and I have really enjoyed the absence of the need to calibrate. I also appreciate EVF and focus performance on the mirrorless body, and generally nail my focus even at f/1.4. Enjoyed your video, and I think it helps to demonstrate that understanding your equipment is important when taking photos, let alone the art of composing and prepping for photos. Keep up the great work!

That's why I use Canon. I focus lock and recompose always