I had my pair of 1851 Nay revolvers worked on by TheOutlawKid. He installed Cap Posts, Cap Shields, and Action Stops. Shooting 20grains of Graf's FFFg, 380 round ball, and Remington #10 Caps @ 25yds.
I have several pietta 36 calibers I have a pair of matched , with the carbine stocks, both of them I believe R-rated at the 10 inch barrel length. at 50 to 60 yards they are almost pin-point accurate I love the hell out of them and I enjoy shooting them! love the video
You can always tell when someone is used to shooting automatics, because they shoot a revolver the same way: with two hands. I owned and shot black powder pistols for years, as did others I knew. No one ever found it necessary to adopt the two-handed "stiff-arm" stance in order to hit something.
Yep that's my go to stance. Use it for autos and revolvers and find it's steady for hitting at 25yds. Been shooting that way for 20 years. If you have a better way post up a video.
Good video . I have both , the 51 Colts and the 63 Remingtons , original and reproductions . I've been shooting them since 1962 when it was the 100 anniversary of the Civil War . I'm giving my age away . I prefer the 51's over the Remingtons ,they naturally point better , but the Remington don't jam as much .
i have two 1858 and two 1851.. I dont get why people like the 1858 over the 1851.. the action and ease of firing, weight , and accuracy is better on the 1851.... by far, its also much quicker to swap cylinders on.. the 1858 you gatta juggle the loading lever, and so forth. Both are nice guns, but the 1851 is much better in my opinion
Cabela's here in Oklahoma City still has a full selection of black powder revolvers starting at 199.00 and up a month ago but no caps luckily I stocked up on them last year and I got plenty of powder too black powder pistol and 22 revolver's is about all I shoot
Someone at my local gun shop brought in several used BP revolvers. I bought 4 of them. A Spiller and Burr $150, A Whitney $150, and Remington 44 $150 and a Rogers and Spencer $200. How did I do?
For those that shoot mid 19th century cap and ball revolvers as they should be fired you'll never have a cap issue. For those who cannot learn or understand how to use these guns properly, and prefer to handle them as modern cartridge revolvers they may need that additional pin for cap issues. Unfortunately people no longer understand the past technology.
@@drobs7279 when you pull the trigger. Hammer hit a cap. Fired. Then when you cock it please start rotating whole arm to right. Then when you cock full the cylinder rotate and fired cap parts fall down. The turn back to shooting position. Pull the trigger. It is like rotate wrist 90 deg right when you cock hammer. Sorry for my English. Time to sleep. Ps: I had pins. I swapped to the welded bar.
@@michal.abramowicz I was being sarcastic with Charles in my comment above. Lots of BP shooters think their way is the only way to do something. I call BS on that. There are multiple ways of shooting these things. I'm well aware of the many methods of firing cap & ball revolvers so caps fall free of the action. The point of the cap post and cap shield is to allow you to rapid fire the revolver without needing to turn your hand sideways or point the revolver up in the air, hoping that the caps fall free. Your English is fine and I do appreciate your comment. I enjoy shooting cap and ball revolvers. Black powder is addicting. Firing these guns combines 2 of my favorite things - Shooting and American Independence Day Fireworks. Love that bang and cloud of smoke.
@@drobs7279 i have movie with double discharge ;) from my 1974 euroarms colt 1860 army replica ;) this colt has been recovered from trash. I need some work on frame. Cap on niple is still to close on frame ;)
Looks like it nearly jammed the cylinder after the sixth shot and had to be hand rotated to clear. Another cap chunk fell out of the loading cutout. What's the point of the cap posts if they don't work? I guess no cap fragments fell in the inner works, but the cap post needs tweaking.
Good thing it only has 6 shots... but I get what you are saying. The fired caps somewhat stick to the nipple vs being ejected off to the side or down into the action.
Cool Brass grip give perfect look .frame steel give durability .I Iove caps and balls shooting WHEN USE IS SMART ........ ( im too sad when i see a beautiful BP with chimney crush by dry shooting ( ROA is an E X E P T I O N ) full of rust..... its TOO SAD...because... just oil after shooting can give you time for clean it ....is steel is isolated of oxygen rust cannot atrack . I do the test and after 12 months no cleaned BP ( old san marco in end of life lool) have ZERO RUST
I believe he moved to Alaska and I don't see him posting as much on The Highroad. Your best bet would be to join the BP Forum on: www.thehighroad.org Another BP smith that does the same work is: www.goonsgunworks.com/ Jackrabbit1957 is 3rd member on the Highroad that smiths C&B revolvers.
Talked to him just now. You can contact Sergio at zoidburgdr@yahoo.com. He does following for mods on Pietta C&B revolvers - cap post, hammer shield, torsion spring wire setup, action stop and adjusts the hammer cam and bolt leg. He currently has a fast turn around, too.
That was my first reaction as well, the wedge is coming in from the wrong side and no blast shield cut away for capping. The world makes sense again now that he explained it😂😂
