Shop Made Fly Cutter for Milling Machine (220 mm diameter) 

thank you, appreciate your feedback :)

Thank you :)

Thank you :)

Thank you :)

Thank you :)

Hello Frankish, thank you for positive feedback, fly cutter is definitely must have and a fun little project with so many different approaches :) How big is your milling machine?

@@JustAnotherCraftsman Its a 9*32 inch knee mill (Its a Precision Matthew 932Ts 3 phase with a VFD). For a big FC I intend to angle the head so its 1 to 2 though off the vertical so I only cut on the leading edge as I only have about 24 inches of travel.

I genuinely like the wording "only 24 inches of travel" 😀 . I think that is plenty and it'll allow you to do a lot of projects. Also, the weight is important in term of rigidity and approx. 500 kg of Matthew 932Ts mill is good. Yes, no machine shop is big enough as well as no machine is big enough, but manipulating 100+ kg parts is no fun without crane. The heaviest part I machined was in the video about anvil restoration (90 kg) and I would definitely skip this opportunity next time 🙂.

@@JustAnotherCraftsman Yeah "only" right? I really wanted to buy the 949mill but it was above the rated weight for the tailgate delivery. One of the things that important to me is to not leave my Wife with several tons of iron she would have to deal with when I eventually pass away. At least with the smaller machine it was somewhat easier to move when its eventually sold. Mind you for only another $1000 the 949 was very tempting.

Thank you 🙂.

Happy to help, you'r welcome :)

Thank you, glad to hear that :). I used acidic bluing in this very case. The solution is combination of distilled water, vinegar, salt and hydrogen peroxide. It is the best approach for bigger parts, because unlike with alkaline bluing, there is no need to manipulate with large volumes of hazardous solutions. Amazing video, covering this topic, did channel dans-hobbies , video called: not so slow rust bluing

Rust it and then boil it in water. I use warm hydrogen peroxide saturated with table salt then add like a third vinegar. Warm the solution and piece to like 40°C to help the reaction a little, then brush on the solution and it will foam up instantly. Let it react for a 30-60 s then brush with a plastic brush and repeat until you have a uniform rusted surface. Maybe plain water works but I've always been using tea as some say the tannin helps with pigment or something. Not sure if it has any chemical effect. The thing is that the boiling process turns the Fe²O³(red rust, hematite) into Fe³O4 which is black(magnetite). I've done it a few times on japanese style sword fittings, neckless and an armour bracelet. If you want it dark brown instead of black you don't boil it for as long.

Appears that I can't share certain things but I have an old video from 14 years ago where I make a bracer with some pictures of the oxidation process.

sinta-se à vontade para copiar o desenho

@@JustAnotherCraftsman OBRIGADO AMIGO

@@JustAnotherCraftsman saudações amigo esporadicamente faço algumas matrizes de furação ou estampo gostaria de dar este acabamento preto no aço , qual e o processo???

Moc děkuji, zatím drží, byl to můj druhý pokus s kyselým černěním a celkem spokojenost :), recept mám z youtube

Hello i used approach presented by channel dans-hobbies video - Not so slow rust bluing. All you need is vinegar salt and hydrogen peroxide.

@@JustAnotherCraftsman thanks

I wouldn't call you a newbie, If you are already so far with your project. I designed mine for both, hss bars as well as carbide holders. Well, it depends a lot on what material do you plan to cut.

It is an old Hauser boring head with MT1. There are many options out there, it depends what are your needs 🙂. You can find them cheap on aliexpress and similar platforms. Boring head or boring bar, as you've mentioned, is the correct term.

Thank You , I was wondering about the angle. The inserts could be purchased for the material. I enjoy your page. Thank You for your reply.@@JustAnotherCraftsman

Man, I gave you info on different tool, I just realized 😂. It is inner boring bar for lathe. I bought one from Beyond aliexpress store. I have long time good experience with them. The price is good for the quality. I don't remember exact type, but I can look once I get home. Thank you for the feedback 🙂

Thank You@@JustAnotherCraftsman

Thank you for the response 🙂. I belive that the starting thickness was around 30 mm and i ended up with 28 mm. I am currently out of shop, so I can't verify the dimension.

@@JustAnotherCraftsman Merci

And where are you from mate? 🙂

@@JustAnotherCraftsman Nizhny Novgorod, Russia

acidic bluing, you force rust a piece with combination of hydrogen peroxide, table salt, and acetic acid and than boil it in water, repeat if necessary

It's Hauser 2BA jig boring machine made in 1943. Old piece of equipment, but still very capable. I used it for casual milling of aluminium and plastics, before I bought my milling machine.

You are very close, TOS SUI 40 😉

Another beautiful soustruh 😅, I have the classic s28

@@PoYoTheWild My uncle has the S28, what an amazing piece of machinery 😁. Ideal size for home workshop. You probably already know, but it used to be part of a mobile army repair shops, so called PAD - pojízdná armádní dílna - mobile army workshop

I saw some photos of a green s28 on the back of a army truck yes

I had an mn80 first, then sn16 and now s28. Will be the last one probably

Indeed :)