Shop stereo with Car Audio & ATX power supply 

Roger that

The newer ps's might have different specs. I would check their website for a more detailed schematic. Usually the ps fan is on its own circuit on the AC side. The more demanding D amps obviously draw more amps. Honestly, I would hesitate to use anything more than 500 rms Amp with this method. Probably best to just get an inverter that has the wattage needed if you're trying to power more than that.

Combining all the 12v wires will give you plenty of continuity.

Id put it in line with the yellow wire, your 12v + wire. But i guess first, what are you trying to protect? Then put the fuse upstream from it.

@@dont.ripfuller6587i think he wants to protect himself

Pretty sure, they could have different colors. Best to refer to the power supply manual.

Yes u can

@@palli9660 Thanks for the reply!

Always good to have a thick solid ground, especially if you have a large amp

I doubt it

phillip - your amp fuse rating is a guide to how many amps it will draw at full load. So your power supply needs to have the ability to output at least that many amps to achieve full output of the amplifier.

Jason A okay,. I'm using a 500rms watt amplifier by MTX audio. That amplifier has a 50amp rating. So I did some math. 12volts x 50amps = 600watts. The power supply that I need is 600watts by thermeltake. That PSU outputs 12volts with 42.6 amps. This should be enough for that 500rms amplifier?

@@phillips3390 sorry for the late reply. Fuse rating is only relevant to the amount of amperage it draws (current). It doesnt necessarily relate to the wattage of the amp. If your amp has (2) 25 amp fuses, you should have a power supply that can handle at least 50 amps of current.

No. The amplifier uses the power that it needs and it won't exceed that range. The psu will support UP to 50 amps but it doesn't mean that it works that way all the time. For example if amp needs 1 amp at 12v the psu will give that amp 1amp at 12v, no more no less 👍😉

(I’m talking about on the power supply itself, not the amp)

Do you normally have good results deviating from the wiring diagram/directions? - lemme save you some "well fck"s... - stick to instructions. Wandering off course will result in stupid unreplaceable components being fried because you sent voltage where voltage did not need to go.

Haha, haven't yet. I have heard many people using a small 12v source like a power bank or rechargable lithium. I am doing a version 2 with a smaller amp this next week. I'll keep working on that part

If you put a toggle switch between the accessory turn on wire for the radio (red) and a constant 12v wire (yellow) you can turn off the radio while it's still plugged in then turn it on when you go to use it and keep your presets. The wall outlet power will basically be your battery and the toggle switch is your ignition... At least that's how it worked for me just never unplug it from the wall.... Lol

yes try turning the gain down, mine does it sometimes on a xbox one psu

You can add any switch you want, key or not. Right now I'm working on figuring out a battery power for the constant

Im using an AC/DC transformer (wall wart) to power memory when ATX off. Used a DPDT on/on switch which simultaneously switches power source and turns on/off ATX.

If love to see what you used for constant power.

Too bad YT doesn't send notification on responses- 6 months later but... constant power for memory is a simple plug in AC 110/12v transformer, rated at 1/2 amp (can be any amp but standby memory used is pretty low). It is connected to a selector switch that either connects radio yellow wire to ATX or to transformer. Its a DPDT on/on switch, it also simultaneously turns on/off atx., which is the key to make work. ATX main switch is left on, the green & black are used to turn on/off ATX, when ATX turned off radios yellow wire is connected to the transformer keeping memory alive. On yours would be easy to retro fit, minor wiring separating the radios red & yellow running the radios yellow thru switch so it receives power from atx or transformer, red left to atx output. The ATX green and black and run to other side of switch. I made a couple of messy videos but don't like redirecting folks- this pic should explain. i.ytimg.com/vi/J11jwL3wNwk/sddefault.jpg. Main point is memory- battery works if your moving radio. Mine is hard-mounted in shop and this simple explanation got wordy....

@@BettyHatesEverything How do I prevent my settings being lost when I turn of PSU? I don't want it running 365 :) There must be a way.

That's probably a great idea. I'm going to do an updated version soon. Definitely add that to this next one

​@@BettyHatesEverything would love to see an updated version of this

I'm building a newer version of this with a much lighter amp and sub. I have heard that you can use a 9v bat to keep the settings. Going to experiment with that soon.

@@BettyHatesEverything Thanks Jason. My electrician friend gave me the solution. Using a battery is unsafe as it would receive 12v from PSU. I am going to use PSU for main power and laptop charger for standby. The 2 negative wires of the 2 supplies are connected together. The 2 positives go into a switch that will select which one outputs 12v to head unit. Hope this helps. Atb

Yeah, it kinda sucks. So many new ones that are smaller, more efficient and way more powerful. This is just what I had at the time

Lol not that I'm aware of, but I take no responsibility if something does. Haha pretty sure any time you are working with electricity, there's a risk of something, but if you do it the way I did, it will work just fine