Shop Talk - Tips for Printing PETG!

Подписаться 43 тыс.

Просмотров 40 тыс.

50% 1

In this episode, we will be talking about how we print PETG (see more here: amzn.to/2yWrpOH ) and share our tips with you guys! As one of the things we like to do is dedicate printers to filaments (i.e. TPU, PETG, ABS and Nylon) and in this case we used the JGAURORA 3D Printer A5S (see more here: amzn.to/3d6yE5q ) as we like the 24 volt power supply, dual Z-Axis, and over all stable (which is important) for this style of plastic.
Air Quality Video for PETG: • 3D Print Air Quality -...
Tip #1: Allow the hot-end some extra space (gap) ~0.1mm or so works well as you do not want to forcibly press the heated plastic down like with other plastics.
Tip #2: For a print surface we like either Blue Painters Tape (see more here: amzn.to/2Wg1Rnp ) for a high quality finish. Or we will use Purple Glue Sticks (see more here: amzn.to/2Ss4dhU ) as release agent for a knock off build-tek bed (see more here: amzn.to/35lzusd ). Other wise you will likely damage the print surface as well as the part.
Tip #3: Print with the bed HOT, I like 87c and I know many might say different. This is where I have found success especially with larger parts and open frame printers.
Tip #4: Print at the higher temps as I typically use 240c at the hot as PETG is a viscous plastic and it takes a lot to push it through the hot-end. In short heat helps flow and needs to be matched with speed. Also I can not say enough good about Capricorn Tubing (see more here: amzn.to/3f2fkrA ) for PETG.
Tip #5: Retraction, we are using 6.5mm at 50mm/sec with the Capricorn Tubing (see more here: amzn.to/3f2fkrA ) as well as tuning the movement of travel to reduce oozing in the slicer.
Tip #6: Slicers make a difference, I have had repeatedly poor results from CURA yet repeatedly good results from the KISS slicer on the same model. I believe the reason for this is the way the slicer implements the GCode is what creates this difference.
Tip #7: Print slower, as mentioned PETG is more viscous then other plastics so there is a STRONG relationship between speed and temperature. Here we typically print at 40mm/sec (Average) which some might think is slow, however the focus here is quality and the faster go, the lower quality you will see.
Tip #8: Nozzle size matters as we have found the best quality is achieved with a 0.4mm nozzle. Of course the larger the nozzle, the less detail however PTEG unlike PLA doesn't seem to react proportionately most likely due to the fact that PETG is not pressed down as other plastics are.
Again, PETG (see more here: amzn.to/2yWrpOH ) is an amazing plastic and with a few tips and tuning you too can get high quality results!
Want to see what we are up to daily? Check out our regular RU-vid Blog posts at:
Please visit www.DIY3DTech.com for more information on this and many other projects!
Check us out on Social Media to see what we are up too as we always have something cooking in the shop!
-Follow us on Instagram:
/ diy3dtech
-Follow us on Tumblr:
www.tumblr.com/blog/diy3dtech
-Follow us on Reddit:
/ diy3dtech
Subscribe to the DIY3DTech RU-vid Channel:
RU-vid.DIY3DTech.com
Subscribe to the DIY3DTech OpenSCAD Channel:
openscad-youtube.diy3dtech.com
If your looking for looking 3D Printer, Laser Cutter and CNC Swag (T-Shirts, Hats, Mugs, etc), please support the channel by visiting our online shop at: swag.DIY3DTech.com
Are you a retailer or product manufacture and would like your product reviewed? Please contact us at info[at]diy3dtech.com
Tags: #DIY3Dtech

Хобби

Опубликовано:

4 июл 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 75

@Spencer1609751 3 года назад

Thank you learned something new today about the Z offset and the nozzle hitting the PETG nerds and ripping the print off!

@edfairbairn6500 3 года назад

I could tell thats a a JGAURORA so after i watched your video. I did everything thing you said. It worked great. Just last night my old settings made Ramen. From the same part. Thank you.

@stephennorski2843 2 года назад

Thanks so much, best advice for me was to use KISS @ 87 degrees. I was trying to tweak slic3r for petg, couldnt solve stringing and gooping issues. With KISS,I just printed a flawless print at default petg settings. I haven't even run the calibration wizard yet. This slicer looks like its full of surprises.

@davidbutcher6637 3 года назад

Beyond helpful will try soon to see results

@JohnAldred 4 года назад

Try printing PETG on FR4 board (the same stuff they use for making PCBs, but without the copper). I've got a couple of cheap i3 clones that I've been using exclusively for PETG for the last couple of years that print on FR4 and it's awesome. No tape, no glue, no sprays, no mess. Sticks perfectly when hot (I'm usually 70-75°C) and pops off great when cold.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

Will try it as I made a phenolic bed for my TPU printer and it works great! so will try it... Thanks for sharing this!

@dondattaford5593 3 года назад

Nice informative I'm new to 3d printing and thanks for sharing these caveats

@DIY3DTECHcom 3 года назад

Glad you like them!

@gilangargyadyaksa3067 3 года назад

Thank you for your tips 👍

@DIY3DTECHcom 3 года назад

No problem 👍

@peterdmeter7933 4 года назад

I'm really happy with sugar water as a bed adhesive for PETG. Gives really good adhesion and once cooled the parts just comes of by itself. It's cheap, always available and smells a bit of childhood when the print starts :) Got the recommendation from a hackaday article. No problems with ants yet.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

Wow! Sugar water? This is a first I have heard of this :-) What is the mix ratio?

@peterdmeter7933 4 года назад

@@DIY3DTECHcom About 1,5 - 2 parts sugar for one part water. Mix and microwave for about 5-10 seconds (dependend on batch size) so the sugar can dissolve better. You want to end up with a clear thin sirup. Then wipe the mixture onto the clean and cold glass bed with a papertowel. Once is enough, you really just want to give it a thin coating. Here is link to said article (not sure if yt lets me post links): hackaday.com/2019/01/05/sugar-as-a-bed-adhesive-for-3d-printing/

@alexcrowder1673 2 года назад

@@peterdmeter7933 wow great tip! Thank you! The stock ender 3 printbed printed parts great for me in PETG, but they ripped pieces off the printbed every time lol. So i tried glass with some coating thats supposed to work for petg, but it only kinda works, its like 50/50 so i had to restart the print frequently and couldn't ever print multiple parts at once or one part would peel and mess up the rest. Hairspray works GREAT for me, but its not always at the dollar store and can be expensive at other stores. If sugar works anywhere near as well as hair spray then thats a game changer!

@Albertc0001 4 года назад

I have been squishing the first layer of PETG to try and prevent the part from releasing mid print. Normally using a 60 degree bed, will try the 80 degree and see how it goes. Thanks for the tip!

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

You welcome and try giving it a little space and see what happens as I didn't mention in the video however this also helps with the release...

@346151295 2 года назад

Hi I have a problem printing small circles/perimeter (like screw holes) on the first level. The walls just won't adhere to the bed. I have 80C bed temp (Carborundum Glass) and 240C nozzle temp. Did you solve this kind of issue before? Thanks

@ripper9111 3 года назад

Ok, I would like to give the head more space but when I do I can get the first layer to stick on painters tape or glass. Unless I squish the first layer of PETG down it will not stick.

@jefffarschon4270 3 года назад

Thanks for the video, I have the same printer and I am going to try PETG after switching to the Capricorn Tubing in the hot end. Questions: Which silicon sock and brand of PETG do you use?

@DIY3DTECHcom 3 года назад

Jus a generic silicon insulator and I use a number of differing PETGs just trying to stay away from the real cheap stuff

@roughcountryoutfitters4545 3 года назад

I just put a creality magnetic bed down on my longer lk1 can't get petg to stick to it at all. Tried tape, didn't work either. I am using cura. It worked great for my pla so long as the lk1 stayed running. It isn't a great machine. Got an ender 3 in today and once it's set up this lk2 is probably going back.

@duckeydave3603 2 года назад

Thanks!

@fozbstudios 3 года назад

Can you share the rest of your printing profile? Thanks for mentioning the z height! I’m really thinking that may be my issue !

@herdinstinct8282 3 года назад

So getting a faster printer, like the Ender 6 that can hit speeds of 150mm, won't actually be that useful for printing with PETG?

@coreymac2381 4 года назад

I have a dedicated PETG printer. I print on a powder coated PEI flex plate. When I need to print PETG on one of my other printers, I use 3D Fuel’s cleaning filament before I switch back to PLA. I haven’t had any issues with clogs or jams when I use the cleaning filament.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

How is the release on the powder coated PEI flex plate as far as any damage to the sheet?

@coreymac2381 4 года назад

I haven’t had any damage to the Powder coated plates from PETG. I wouldn’t try to print with it on a smooth PEI sheet without a little glue stick.

@gregmcdonald5986 3 года назад

I'm having trouble using a clone e3dv6 with petg. I seem to be getting constant clogging. From what I've read the problem seems to be the ptfe tube being used inside the hotend and an all metal hotend seems to be the cure. My problem is finding a cheap all metal hotend or even just an all metal heatbreak for the e3dv6 that's reasonably priced. Are you using an all metal hotend? or are you possibly using the Capricorn tubing inside the hotend? Thanks

@DIY3DTECHcom 3 года назад

You should be just fine (no I do not use an all metal hot end), the Capricorn tube is better but PTFE also works with a shorter life. Keep in mind speed and heat are related functions. If you are clogging (1) slow it down, and (2) bump up the heat. Keep in mind your printer is likely under reporting the temp. Also if your using a cheap Chinese PETG there are junk fillers, get a quality brand...

@dragnet53 3 года назад

I agree with you and Cura sucks. You earned a sub! So far I am starting to like KISSlicer. It's kind of complex, but have to get used to it.

@patprop74 3 года назад

I am, really not a fan of the blue tape, but I'm rather bios and a huge fanboy of 3DLac spray adhesive, and it works great with Petg, i also like printing with Petg, acrylic glues are really amazing to hold parts together. the only thing i don't like about PETG is it finishing properties, if you finish a part as is, then it's fine, but if you have to do any kind of sanding, it scarps the look of the part as it likes to gum up and the tiniest of dust permanently sticks to it and parts come out looking dirty and can't be wash to make look clean.

@johnahamelv 4 года назад

I am new to 3D printing. I began printing a few trinkets with the PLA filament that came with the printer, but I have by now gone through almost 4 spools of PETG filament (Prusament, Hatchbox, SUNLU) all with good results using the same settings. I plan to try next MicroCenter's Inland filament as well as eSun from Amazon and FilamentOne PETG. I am using a heated bed with a textured surface. I am not using an enclosure, but I am printing in a climate controlled room. Other than heating the bed, I am not doing anything special to the bed (no hairspray, no painter's tape, no Elmer's glue, no Unicorn tears, etc.). I am using a 0.4mm E3D V6 brass nozzle. For the first layer, I am using 240°C/85°C for extruder and bed, and 250°C/90°C for subsequent layers. I am very happy printing with PETG so far.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

PETG is a great plastic and I am guessing your using a slower PLA setting which will work (faster ones will cause issues). One of the main issues is PETG is very sticky and damages beds because it take a hammer to get it off so in that vain you have been lucky

@johnahamelv 4 года назад

@@DIY3DTECHcom Not just lucky, but consistently lucky. 😉

@Joshuaellis420 Год назад

I tried the red I ordered pla+ but got petg new got it to stick

@oneheadlight8000 2 года назад

We print 245 with a 0 degree bed. Print about 150 spools of it last year with 12 printers :) .. On blue tape we found we can save a lot of electricity with our prints if we leave the bed at 0.

@3d-explorer 2 года назад

Thanks for this info! I have heard of people that print PETG without a heated bed, but not many details. Are there particular brands of PETG that you would recommend to use or avoid for printing with a bed set to 0? Thanks again.

@oneheadlight8000 2 года назад

@@3d-explorer yes.. we prefer 3DXTECH, prusament, and atomic.. the scotch brand blue tape with 3M adhesive works best.. duck brand didn’t stick at all and left a residue on the bed.. we get 4-5 prints on a single piece of tape before swapping it. Prusament seems to print the smoothest with this method. If you have to add heat then 60 degree bed is plenty.. I see a lot of people using 80 for PETG and that is a waste.

@GregAtlas 4 года назад

Your issues with the "larger" nozzles is likely due to the hot end not being able to heat the material quickly enough. This is where the volcano and super volcano come in handy. I've been printing with a 1.2mm nozzle on a super volcano for about a month now and even with the super volcano I get a max speed of 40mm/s due to the heat absorption issue. PETG is quite heat reflective. When I was first setting up the work computers with the 1.2 and 1.4 mm nozzles I discovered a problem with Cura that I didn't notice with smaller nozzles. When starting infill, the extruder wasn't starting its extrude in time It would leave a gap at the beginning of the infill and complete just fine. I was changing all of the relevant settings and driving myself nuts trying to figure it out, but then I switched to the Prusa slicer and it hasn't been a problem ever since. Edit: I definitely recommend using the super volcano over the regular volcano. The regular volcano cools off from part cooling, filament temperature transfer, and ambient temperature way too easily while the super volcano has been a champion.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

Your 100% correct about the temp and needing a lot more heat. Since I made the video using a stock printer wanted to stick with that. Also yes on the Cura issue it has a lot of bugs...

@yogimarkmac 4 года назад

Don't waste tape. Print on glass for a beautiful smooth bottom finish (I use a little hair spray). I use PETg all the time (it's my favorite filament). 60-70 bed temperature works fine. I don't use any extra Z for PETg. I printed a big square enclosure the other day with no perceptible warping at the corners. When you pull the print off you want to see only very fine lines between the print extrusions otherwise you won't be getting enough surface area contact for good adhesion. 0.5mm nozzle is my go to choice, sometimes I'll use 0.4 or even 0.3 if the part really needs the detail and is small.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

Thanks for commenting, know a lot of people like glass however I have not used it in years as I go in between glue stick and build tek or the tape. Just never warmed up to glass I guess

@Yavorh55 2 года назад

How do you keep the tape from being pulled up by the print and causing warping? Seems like the tape is a lot easier to get pulled up from the bed than any other print directly on the bed

@PlayerCraftPro 2 года назад

If you don't use the tape, you will take the bed with the print. Petg is very sticky

@GrandpaBill 4 года назад

I'm thinking that machine setup would also be good for TPU.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

If search TPU on my channel I built a custom TPU printer from my old i3 and CNCed a phenolic bed for it so. I also use a little different slicer settings too

@richardbrown2290 4 месяца назад

thanks. tried Kiss and for some reason it does not like the Marlin 2.06 system. Thanks anyway

@djagamo4345 3 года назад

Sorry but I couldn't understand him properly when he said which slicer he used. I've been using cura and have had terrible luck, which slicer did he recommend?

@BuckFoeJiden 3 года назад

KISSslicer

@Fm-ss4uj 3 года назад

Do you need the fan on for this material?

@DIY3DTECHcom 3 года назад

It depends on the desired out come as if you print with no fan the higher PETG filament temperature will aid in creating super-strong layer adhesion. The molten PETG will stick to the previous layer well. However if you need better detail, as well as reduced no stringing, you should use 100% PETG cooling fan.

@Fm-ss4uj 3 года назад

@@DIY3DTECHcom thanks for the quick reply so if I wanted strong but less stringing can I increase retraction speed or retraction amount a bit i got a delta that goes a little faster than a Cartesian on average

@davidcrawford6505 3 года назад

Your advice has been the best for my setup. I have a Anycubic chiron with Overture PETG. 240 hotend and 80 bed at higher nozzle height. Then the blue tape for adhesion. Resulted in a beautifully printed flat part with absolutely no warping. Thanks for sharing.

@RomanoPRODUCTION 4 года назад

blue tape for everything here + glue if needed

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

Was using glue as a release agent on the build tek but had so curling corners so switch back the blue tape...

@chrisbrown519 3 года назад

ive aced cura im printing cleaner than you 70mms trick is minemal retraction, i do like your painters tap idea my printer is qidi plus also i found the biggest hurdle is leveling the bed perfect i use .05 higher on the norm on the nozzel also my printer is enclosed hence the speed

@shemp308 4 года назад

Except for the tape I agree! keeping in mind i dont use the tape! printing with PETG filament for about a year everything he said is what i do.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

What do you print on? Know some people are using powder coated PEI flex sheets.

@ShabbernigdoXingjian 3 года назад

@@DIY3DTECHcom im trying to use the PEI sheet now . its why im looking at these videos i cant get PETG to stick for shit. Tried 91% alcohol wiped down / windex wipe down / dawn dish soap and scalding hot water scrub down / glue stick / masking tape / it wont stick to fkn anything except paper. Im about to just print it on paper and rip what i can back off when the print is done.

@XxThingsThatRawrxX Год назад

my ender 3 starts printing and then drags the dried filament all over the bed smh

@pmflav 4 года назад

Saw the blue tape and felt sad. Found a glue stick works well on all filament types.

@DIY3DTECHcom 4 года назад

I have had better luck with the tape then the glue stick for PETG, please keep in mind as unlike other plastics here it is as acting as a "release agent" whereas I have had issue with glue and corner warping...

@basslinedrc3dfpv827 3 года назад

Wait till you try out Hairspray

@groznyentertainment 3 года назад

ABS does not stick to glue stick, and also a glue stick is not a release agent - its not petroleum jelly

@pmflav 3 года назад

@@groznyentertainment uhm. What. It does stick to abs. The glue sticks we are talking about are water based. And also assists with parts removal post print. Stating this from experience. Please understand how the glue stick actually works.

@groznyentertainment 3 года назад

@@pmflav I used the children glue sticks school supply type. they work on pla great.. ABS is a pain to print with. My 2 solutions were the abs slurry (acetone mix with plastic brushed on bed) or use the printing sheets like the one on this video - ( it will stick if bed is cleaned with alcohol - but there will be warping issue) .

@TheNewBloodDan 3 года назад

On Facebook groups people make fun of me for still using painters tape

@DIY3DTECHcom 3 года назад

If your using your printer for multi material it is the best I have found...

@TheNewBloodDan 3 года назад

@@DIY3DTECHcom I use pla and trying get petg to work, do you have the link to the slicing software you use for petg???

@MyEyeOnYou 3 года назад

Glass bed and if small items hairspray....large prints nothing...

@DIY3DTECHcom 3 года назад

I cringe when I hear hairspray & glass the tape works great and if see my newer video I also have built a dedicated printer using bakeligh material which also works well...