I have a 52hp mahindra 575di 1990 model here in India and it runs great not have many modern features like yours but this thing heavy built it's been 30 years and i still use it
Thanks for your review! I have a 6075 as well. Got in July of 2019. As of now (four months later). I have put about 180 hours on it. I'm using it A LOT. Ours is no cab, 15 speed manual, shuttle shift, ag tires, 4WD with loader. I completely agree about weight and traction. We got ours half way through haying season. Before the 6075, I we were getting stuck ALL the time with the haybine during cutting and the baler during baling.. Once we bought this thing, we baled the same fields for the second time after even more rain and that tractor just laughed at the baler and full haywagon. Never spun a tire...nevermind getting stuck. This tractor is the PERFECT weight and tire size to put its engine to the ground. My cousin bought a Kubota M7060. Similar horsepower... but the weight and traction of the 6075 is far, far superior. My wife laughs about the first time we baled with it. We were doing a problem field, she came over to check on us after filling four wagons. She asked how it went, and I said, "This thing is f***ing UNSTOPPABLE!" OK... maybe I was a little over enthused... I find that the low end lugging power is lacking... for instance, if you're out on the road, hauling a full load of hay where traction isn't an issue... you're going to have to use a lower gear and keep the RPMs up. You have to smartly shift sequentially up through the gears and maintain RPMs. Once the RPMs are up, the old turbo is whistling and it's pretty hard to stop. This doesn't bother me. I'm not into drag racing. I'm not into speed and momentum. Traction in the field is much more important, and I have always been able to shift to a proper gear to get the work done or get the wagons home. My opinion is that this comes from the pollution controls. The engine is set to never smoke... as opposed to dumping a bunch of fuel in and smoking like a house on fire when you need low end lugging to get a wagon up to speed. I also like these pollution controls. I like being able to put in an 8 hour day and not smell like diesel and smoke when I get done. The pollution control system, in my opinion and the opinion of friends of mine that have new Kubotas... is a very good system. There is no DEF and there is no need for the high RPM "regen" that the Kubotas do. The downfall may be that there are components that have to be replaced after about a thousand hours. But, you pay now (in DEF or in wasted fuel during high RPM regen)... or you pay later (in replaced components). I prefer the latter... it's a one time thing, as opposed to a nagging everyday thing. Engine is super quiet, just like you say. And... of course... the muffler is hot. Every tractor's muffler is hot! :-) I HAVE used the remote hydraulics on mine. They work great. The loader is A BEAST! I have had a minor leak with a cylinder. The dealer is covering it under warranty. I like the manual with shuttle shift on mine better than hydrostatics I've driven before. With 15 gears, it may as well be hydrostatic. I can always find the perfect gear. The starter on mine has worked like a champ. Your issue doesn't seem like a juice or cable harness issue. Your solenoid is clicking. It's either the solenoid (clicking but not actually making contact) or the starter itself sometimes the starter motor gets a dead spot. Just my opinion. I don't think that temperature or the cable harness has anything to do with it. Ask the dealer to just put a new starter/solenoid on... even if just to prove that it's NOT the issue. ONE WARNING!!!! On mine, without the cab, the shuttle shift lever is positioned in a spot where your hip might hit it as you climb on and off the tractor. It's tempting to just put the shuttle in neutral and apply the parking brake. DO NOT DO THAT!!! MAKE SURE THAT YOU ACTUALLY PUT THE GEAR SELECTOR IN NEUTRAL... WHY? Because, if the tractor is in gear... and only the shuttle is in neutral... you can easily hit that shuttle when you climb back on the tractor THE TRACTOR WILL START MOVING BEFORE YOU ARE IN THE SEAT!!! Easy solution to the above. Everybody in my household has been specifically instructed to shift the transmission to neutral before getting off the tractor. That makes the position of the shuttle shift a moot point. I also think that the above is a moot point on cab versions of the tractor, because it's harder to hit the lever with your hip climbing in.
Real Good Honesty Review of Mahindra Tractor.., I bought a 2019 4550 ,, Rear tires filled, Grapple extra.. Bushhog... I got 50 hours on it... It's a Super Strong Heavy Duty well built machine.. International harvester based.. Mahindra was part of the Willy's Jeep too.. Theirs in credible History Behind Mahindra Tractors... Super Heavy Lift capacity, real iron Steel built, heavy weight machines, translates to traction, lift balance, push.. Price Price Price compared to other brands... Truly is Best Buy... My Mahindra would Eat the Orange, Green, Blue machines in same HP class.. Great Video!!! Make some more Mahindra Videos.. 👍
Traded in 2655 HST Mahindra for 2023 6075 with cab like yours. I have all the same feedback as you, 100%. But, would not make a different tractor decision. I like it.
About the warranty issue: I watched the videos that you reference before we bought our 6075. At the dealership, I read their warranty, especially the section where it says that they don't warranty "commercial" applications. I asked our dealer about this specifically. What he said is that the warranty is only as good as your dealer; because the dealer determines what "commercial" means. He said that, in my case, even though we have a farm, we're OK; because it's a sole proprietorship homestead-type of farm. Just like you are OK using it for sort of a "logging" application. Our dealer told me that the commercial application clause is in the warranty to cover Mahindra in the case where the tractor is sold to a major operation, like a factory farm, where you may have multiple employees, who may be poorly trained, using the machine. In my case, the tractor is used by myself and close family; and it is a major, major purchase. It behooves us to take care of it. This is our asset; and we want to maintain it. If it was being used by somebody's "employees", they tend to be rougher on machinery.
For the coolant, we just have coolant on hand but it is the extra tank. However, we just thought it was wear and tear but can't find leaks anywhere. You can use any traditional 50/50 premix formula. We are on 240 hours of use and had to put in less than a quarter jug the entire time. For the starter issue at the end, we had to put a stock heater on it because we were having starting issues at about 6 degrees or below. We are in Colorado and it gets cold out here in the winter and the dealer just couldn't figure it out. It cost us about $160 and realized that the oil, etc is fine but we just put in a plug to heat the engine block ahead of time and it works. For it being a diesel, we understand the glow plugs but had to plug it in at times when it gets cold. It doesn't happen that often but a fair observation and concern. Thank you for doing the video and appreciate the honesty with everything. It is so hard finding videos on this size. Thinking on doing one for the maintenance since we do it ourselves to help others out.
I've had my 6075 for about a month of usable time. 68 hours on it. Your review was pretty good. One thing I'd like to see Mahindra add would be a forward and reverse light when the tractor shifter is engaged. It only has a neutral light. I also would like to see LED lights used instead of the old school lights that are OEM. My seat won't hold air but a day. Every day I have to pump it up. The read hydraulic remotes and flow are great! I run a batwing shredder, and it will flat pop those wings up. I wish Mahindra would get in the game of having a U.S. parts warehouse... If you need something they don't happen to have, it can be a LONG wait to get the parts from wherever they send them to the U.S. from. If Mahindra wants to get a better reputation with owners, cutting that downtime due to parts availability is a good place to start. Luke please keep us informed if you have anything else relative. Thanks!
The seat is made by Grammer with cheap parts. If the Grammer name is on the seat they use better parts. We have the same seat in the tractor. It also leaks air.
I agree with your parts warehouse in the US. I have a new 6075 with 33 hours on it and have been without it for two months. Waiting on a clutch assembly now which is not in the US. I like everything about the use of this tractor when its running but if I have anymore problems with it that I have to wait on a poor eta for parts I will sell it and purchase something else. I handled the Mahindra Roxor and the parts supply for them was not very good either. Purchased this tractor because my rep said they were great tractors and didn't have the supply issues that Roxor was having as a new start up. Not sure now. Really hoping this is a one time warranty issue. The front end and cab had to come off to repair this tractor.
@@larryo1705 , ALL tractor manufacturers are having supply issues right now. I think mt dealer told me Mahindra has most of everything for most models now in a warehouse in Houston. They are getting better. I know I've had less bugs to work out of this one than my 100hp Case. But it's settled in to be a good tractor too. I have over 800 hours on my 6075 now, and it's running great! Hope you get your tractor back soon. I know it can be frustrating.
The starter is because of your shuttle shift neutral indicator switch. If it goes bad it won’t start at times even if your neutral dash light comes on. I had the same problem.
WRT to the start problem, look at your grounds. Common ground type problem characteristic. Check the ground strap on the starter, engine to frame, etc. Nice review. I have a 4025, love it, may be buying a 6075. THANKS!
I just ordered a 6075 pst cab today. Buddy seat updated, loader updated, cab updated. The starter issue sounds like a similar issue they have on zero turns with the magnetic shift solenoids. The fix is basically adding a 12v relay to the starter from the battery. It’s basically a more direct path versus going through safeties. Good review thanks!
I had a 2005 cabbed 4320 (5300lb, 48hp, 4 family), owned it for 3 years and had situations often where the rear wheels went off the ground, I had 700lbs on the back for ballast and that tractor really needed 2000lbs of ballast. I sold it and bought an open station 5555 (55hp 8000lb) and it’s night and day more stable. I added 300lb bolt on weights to each rear wheel and it’s plenty. The 6000 series is a bit of an upgrade over the 5500 series but I really like my 5555 so far. I have had no starting problems on my 5555, no matter the outside temp, I turn the key and it fires right up. Power shuttle would be really nice, mine is a mechanical shuttle, no matter what I have to shift but I can shift on the fly where the 4500 series can’t.
I have had two mechanical shuttle shift Mahindra's they were great tractors but the power shuttle is a game changer 👍 Try adding fluid to your rear tires for added weight. It puts the weight down on the ground where you want it 👌
Also... I forgot to add. The parking brake lever. The parking brake lever next to the seat is problematic in non-cab versions. It has a cable to the brakes, and if you look underneath, you see that the cable goes down and then back up to get where it's going. This is a perfect location for water to gather. Mine has frozen on me during the freak cold snap that we got early November. It does loosen up as you use the tractor, it would seem that heat from the brakes must work its way up the cable or something. But, I do not engage the parking brake when I park it overnight in below freezing weather, because the last time I did, it froze that way and I had to drive the tractor with the brakes on for a minute or two to get it undone. My guess is it's a moot point with a cab, since no water gets on the lever/cable. I also wonder if I should simply put a slice in the cable sheath at it's low point under the deck to ensure that water drains out. PS. I'm in Central New York, and we got 10 inches of rain this October. A record. So, if water was going to ever get into a parking brake cable... that would have been the month.
Great video. I have about 100 hours on my 6075 and have experienced 2 problems, alternator failed and tractor would not go into gear after it was at operating temperature. If you let it cool back down it would then work again. Mahindra recommended to replace hydraulic oil, which was covered under warranty. This corrected my problem.
Great video. Have you ever worked with a Mahindra on steep inclines, 15% or so? I was considering a Mahindra but unsure how stable it would be on hills. I work primarily on forestry projects, so logging up/down a hill and towing a trailer as well. Any thoughts on hills? Would a tracked tractor work better?
Our 4535 2014 model ate coolant. Dont sweat it. Just watch the temps and do a walk over before every day. Im in heats pushing 110-120F sold it to get a larger tractor. Believe ill get this model. Was either this or a yanmar just yanmar deal is further away than the other.
re the starting try swapping the battery sounds crazy but one of my vehicles did the same found out it was a cheap battery that did not always give the required surge at the first turn.. This also happend to my friends Range Rover cost a fortune to change ignition switch and some re wiring then an old mechanic suggested the battery both he and I thought he was off his head but guess what he was right he reckoned it was something to do with the big draw from all the computer things and if the battery is not 100% this can happen. No disrespect but Mahindra might have put a cheap battery on the tractor " worth a try" good luck and good vid !!!!!!!!!!
if you put antifreeze in your back tires and your front tires you won't have trouble in the snow with the tractor it won't slip it'll make it bite and grab
Mahindras are Toyotas of tractors, most sold, fewer bells & whistles(fewer repairs), reliable, and cheap. Fuck JD for those complicated computer systems and their anti-repair shenanigans.
@@lukedaoutdoorguy7639 I'd say the solenoid on top of the starter is probably the cause of the issue with it not starting straight away. You can here something try to engage when you turn the switch however it's not firing up the starter.
@@garrymuir1442 That's my guess too. The solenoid is trying. It's clicking. But it just isn't making enough contact, until it bangs back and forth a few times. My guess anyways...
@Luke you mentioned "Mahindra" never charged a dollar for warranty repairs, even cover transportation to and from shop. Was the transportation a courtesy from your dealer?
Brother if you run a multiple hundred+ acre cattle ranch in the steep open big mountains of swva and southern west Virginia when you put hours upon hours on one you will understand why people pay for the John Deere, in your application this is the perfect tractor, but I have run the exact same tractor to a T , also have a 80 horse 4x4 loader cab tractor Massey and a 90 horse John Deere, the John Deere will go places and pull and push things the other 2 won't think about, I have a 27 minute video of me in this tractor pulling a 17ft 2 axel trailer with about 4+ thousand pound of wood on it up a steep muddy snowy hill, got stuck and couldn't move, with years of experience, I was stuck stuck when I had made the same trip all day with the John Deere, sketchy and still slick but she makes it we're the others don't, I pulled both the tractor and trailer of wood together out with the John Deere and a 17ft chain, was absolutely shocked and impressed, I like the smaller Mahindras, the 50 and below bore power gear drive tractors but when it comes to 70+ h.p , the John Deeres and new hollands and big boys really shine and make a difference in alot of more ranch like applications, especially hydraulics and power /comfort
In the shop three times? Issues starting? And now eating coolant? I get the price deal I just picked up a new kubota m7060 for 52 out the door. Never had an issue with my 2017 L3301 I just sold. Idk just from what you stated I would not get one. But that’s me.
The 6065 has less hydraulic LPM than the 3650 it is only a few LPM but the 6075 has more than both the 3065 and 6065. So maybe it could be a restriction or valve adjustment?
The John Deere you had was not comparable size, it was a hydrostat and the biggest compact tractor, not a utility tractor, weight steps up tremendously in utility which would make it feel alot less tipsy but none the less u have nice equipment and looks fun!
Quick question on the starter are you turning the key all the way without pausing or do you turn it till it's on for a few seconds and then turn the rest of the way to start? There could be a capacitor which works like a "electricity hopper" it has to fill before it sends the correct amount of power consistently similar to a hopper now they can hold a charge for 10 seconds so I'm wondering if instead of leaving the key in the on position before the final turn to start charges the capacitor which then sends power to the starter now why it may seem to go on the third try is you were providing pulses of charges fast enough to Beat the dissipation of the capacitor
Do you notice the center of gravity being higher than the 4066 since the 4066 has smaller wheels/tires and just being smaller/narrower tractor than the Mahindra? I have been debating 2 different frame sizes to use around the house. Hard to not want something that might be too big for using around the house.
The mahindra is way better balanced than the 4066r. I found the difference to be one of the major reasons to switch machines. I have never lifted one of the mahindra tires off the ground. I had nearly tipped the JD several times
I cant find in the manual where it says how to reset it. On page 36 it talks about the service light indicator but only states take it to a mahindra dealer for resetting. I would call a dealer and see if you can talk to a service tech.
Thanks I will call Dealership where I purchased the Tractor You do a Great Job with your Videos and they were one of the Main Factors in my purchase of my 6075
Our dealer told me how to do it. It's too complicated for me to remember. You have to shut it off, pull out a fuse. Turn it on, put the fuse back in. Click the key on and off a number of times. Turn it off. Maybe fiddle with the fuse again. Something like that. :-) Like I said, it's some combination of the above ... I just can't remember what that combination is. But it did work when I did it.
Glad some of yall love yours cause our 2019 6075 turned out to be the biggest piece of junk we ever owned. Mahindra has been worthless helping us. Be careful and don't catch your right side step on anything, its mounted to the transfer case. It will split it and they won't help with the bill. The dealer actually caught the step on the trailer unloading it and tried to blame it on us. They wanted us to pay 15k to replace the case. We had it welded for 3k, but still has a pin hole leak. The bucket is weak compared to my smaller 50hp Kubota. The rear wheel lugs constantly vibrate loose, the hydraulic lines and seals constantly leak, and the AC constantly builds up condensation and a steady flow of water is constantly dripping in your lap. Everything about it is a disaster.....constantly! We are seriously thinking about getting an attorney and going after Mahindra since they refuse to make any of the issues good.....
Sounds like 90% of your problem with your tractor is your dealer, I'm on my 3rd Mahindra and my dealer (Yell county Gin in Dardanelle, AR) is very helpful and prompt in answering my questions and providing service if needed. They are the reason that I don't buy from any other dealers in my area. Service after the sale is EVERYTHING 👌
Please don't irritate In India we use world class automobile or lifestyle brands from different countries including America... They are not clime to proud... Peoples need products that have affordable price and good quality... They don't thin where they come from.... I used lots of branded clothes from around the world. To me Quality and price is important even it's from China...
All Mahindra tractors are manufactured overseas, either in India or China. The only two people that Mahindra gives a job to is the salesman and the mechanic that keeps fixing them. Buy American and give your kids or grandkids a job. Buy a John Deere that is made in Augusta, Georgia, John Deere employees thousands of Americans.
Run, don't walk away from the dealer if you ever think about buying a Mahindra. THEY ARE A Gigantic P.O.S.!!! I have one that Has about 225 hours of service. I would guess that I have put in at least that much time just in repairs, replacing stuff that falls off and trying to get the stupid thing to run. The Mahindra operators manuals are useless, full of wrong information; so what ever service you want to do you can't just look at the manual, but must research it. RU-vid helps, but it doesn't have everything. Also Mahindra parts are extremely hard to fine. And since it is a Mahindra, stuff will break and fall off. Still not convinced? If you get to the point of talking to a dealer, ask him/her to DEMONSTRATE how to attach and remove any implements. Don't let him get by with telling you how to do it or watching a video, have him show you. Save yourself time, money and frustration, DO NOT BUY A MAHINDRA. Seriously, don't do it.
@Doc Savage i had an open control mahindra 45hp for 500 hrs before i upgraded. Zero issues with the tractor for myself. The person who owned before me traded it to the dealer for a large mahindra with AC as he was older. He had zero issues with the tractor. I litterally had to order my tractor as my dealer couldn't keep them on the lot. I was number 8 in line to get a 6075 and even then another dealer tried to bully their way to get the tractor i had purchased. That alone says a lot about the brand. If you treat a machine like crap, itll be crap. If you treat it right, itll be a great rig. Yes, there are some lemons but not like people claim in the thousands they have sold here
@Doc Savage That would be the best way to do it is to build your own. What many farmers around me have done. Including a farmer pulling a tractor rear/trans and matting to a pickup that had the rear cut off to mount a sprayer onto. I learned from the older, now mostly passed away, generation of farming. Grease, fluid levels, and so forth every day of operation before turning the key, or jumping the solenoid. I too have ran crap tractors on equipment thats too big or small. New or old, everything is a piece of crap. Just need to give it the best chance to last as long as you can before it fails. Right now im batting whats the best 12v transfer pump. Don't want to spend $500 but i also dont want a cheap one that quits in 4 fill-ups. Thinking GPI for $250ish on Northern Tool, but Fillright is top dog at $500+
@Doc Savage not sure if you deleted your comment, but its not here. Im unsure if youre aware, but there is a list of banned words they use scanning comments making sure they are not in. I believe your word "cr*p" is what took it off if thats the case. Use the * key when cursing.
