The pins for idlers and the Ge5C are great mods. I have been using them for nearly two years. My V2.4 has over 8000 hours of print time and all I did was keep it greased and replaced the belts. So glad I built it, even before the good kits were really a thing.
I used the BFI and BeefyZ instead of rama, They kept splitting. I replaced the toothed gear idlers with fushi 395 bearing stacks for longevity and much smoother operation
Congratulations with you Voron and your new hobby. It is a great machine and your upgrades are making it better as the stock configuration. For me the main disadvantage of a Voron was that the printer became a hobby in itself. Trying to make it better and faster costed a lot of time. Meanwhile, mine never became the reliable workhorse I needed at some point. So I had to make the decision to sell it and to buy an reliable machine. For me that was the Prusa XL. For hobbyists who just want to print in 3D I can't recommend buying a Voron kit. Better buy a ready assembled printer. Bambu labs has nice budget friendly printers that just work.
I can't agree more, it does become a hobby in itself, and the time and cost investment definitely is not for everyone. The point of reliable workhorse is hard work, I feel like I've gotten mine almost there. Lastly, well said. if you like 3d printing, buy a reliable 3d printer, if you like 3d printers, build one! Thanks for the comment and support!
I would also look at idm/cartographer/beacon instead of using tap. I’ve bin using tap for a year with adaptive mesh. Using idm now instead and it’s just so much faster to start a print and get a god mesh on the bed.
I have looked at the IDM stuff, for the time being I feel like money spent on aspects that are lacking would be better. Tap has and is serving me well, maybe once the printer reaches the spot id like to see it in, ill mess around with some other probes! thanks for the comment!
Am I correct if I assume that building the voron and the satisfaction that the end result gives you is why you started this project? In the end the easy way would be to just buy a x1c and start printing with it.
C920x works fine for me with mainsail, klipper, and crowsnest..? Just use it as it was my old webcam, and decided to use my pi cam 3 as a tool head cameras on the rear x gantry extrusion pointing at the nozzle.
yeah I managed to get mine going as well, but it was a nightmare. my recommendation to anyone looking to buy a camera is to get something less expensive that will work out out of the box
If I want to mimic this exact color scheme, is it obvious on which parts to print teal and which to print purple or is it pretty custom design not easily replicated?
I did opposing parts in one of each Top right xy joint purple means bottom left is purple (etc) then on parts like the screen holder you only have 2 pieces, so one of each
Very nice build! You seem to be going pretty hard on the mods. I'd hear your opinion on how you rank he mods in terms of usefulness. There are so many Ender mods that are fairly pointless. The voron community seems to have a lot of well done mods but I find it difficult to evaluate what is actually useful or makes a difference. Are pin mods really worth it? Which mods have made the biggest difference to print speed or quality? Which mods are mostly for style?
Hey! first off, thanks for becoming a Seb-scriber! If I had to rank the mods in this video, the top 3 have to be: The filter, the webcam and the gantry backers. great bed mesh, no smell, fast heat up time and remote monitoring are all excellent Quality of life must haves. The rock and rollers are very practical for this size of machine, everything else isn't "necessary" per se, but they're all better than the stock counterparts, quick panel removal, a touch screen, clean cable management, Can Bus and the others are very easily justifiable. Many others have said this before, but the beauty of the Voron is you don't build A Voron, you build YOUR Voron. thanks!
Hello, I have to give a big compliment to your beautiful videos / explanations / presentations of the Vorons and now also Micron. You rarely see that on RU-vid. Greeting
Im wanting to get a voron 2.4 as a first printer due to the flexibility of being able to mod whatever you want on it and since with good part sourcing you can get a high quality printer. In your opinion, to make a setup like yours, would it require any specific previous experience or knowledge to be able to make a voron? I am wanting to build a voron that is enclosed, has a heating element for engineering filaments, has the bigtree screen and has an auto toolchanging system for multimaterial prints. The main reason i want to print is to be able to make high quality parts for engineering projects and to be able to print 3d printed rc plane components How long would such a build take and do you have any reccomendations for highquality parts to build one?
I had 0 experience building 3d printers before this and had never soldered or crimped wires. I work with computer systems however so I had a "background" in the right area which definitely helped. Heated chambers are a forbidden subject on the Voron discord, and I don't know of many people that have managed to print engineering materials in their Voron's, You might want to look into a different printer if that's your use case
@@Browzzrr honestly, engineering filament isn't a must, since the majority of time I will use CF filament would be replaceable with carbon fibre rods since they are lighter and steonger
How do you like the filter? Building a 2.4 now, cant decide on the nevermore or the filter. Also, what do you use for an umbilical cord? I see all these nice colors, not sure where people source the sleeve from. Nice build btw.
I ran the nevermore for a few weeks, its a great mod, easy to implement, it just didn't remove all the smell, maybe 85%. The filter heats the chamber twice as fast and completely removes the smell while printing, couldn't be happier with it!
@@Browzzrr having researched the mods I think I’m going to sell the 2.4 and built a new one. I want to have stealthchanger and therefore need to rebuild half the gantry and upgrade to a new board. For now I will upgrade the hinges add The Filter and print parts for a v0.2 built
I would start with something like an Ender 3 and work your way up from there. The Ender 3s are inexpensive, and simple. Easy to upgrade as well. I bought my Ender 3 V2 about 3 years ago for about $167, though nowadays you can find them for less than $100 in some places. I've made a few modifications to this printer so far, such as: replacing the stock glass print bed with a magnetic PEI bed (for better first layer adhesion). This was about $15 replacing the stock extruder setup (extruder is mounted to frame and feeds filament into hot end with a tube) with a Creality Sprite Pro direct drive extruder (extruder and hot end are combined into one unit. Easier to load filament into, and can get to hotter temperatures, allowing you to print a wider range of materials). This was about $80 installing a bed probe (this enables automatic bed levelling). While on this printer, you still have to manually level the bed with the wheels at each corner, the probe helps correct for any minor deviations from true level, so you don't have to be as precise. This was about $35 replacing the stock version 4.2.2 motherboard with a version 4.2.7 motherboard. This one has silent stepper motor drivers, reducing some of the noise output of the printer. I plan on replacing this board with an SKR Mini E3 at some point as those boards can make the printer even quieter, through the use of this feature called stealth chop. You also have the option to add a WiFi module to this board. The version 4.2.7 motherboard was about $30. The SKR Mini E3 v3 is about $44. Placing the printer in an enclosure. Helps keep the dust off it, and reduces some of the noise level, really important since this thing is in my bedroom. Also helps keep harmful fumes from circulating into the air with the help of its HEPA filter. (though if you only print with PLA, you don't have to worry about fumes). This was my most expensive upgrade so far, at about $200. I sprang for one of the nicer ones with acrylic side panels and LED lighting. Replacing the stock firmware with MRiscoc's professional firmware (though at some point I plan on running Klipper). This was free. Klipper is also free, but requires the use of a single-board computer such as a Raspberry Pi. I also at some point plan on adding linear rails to the Y axis to help stabilize it and enable faster print speeds, along with upgrading the stock bed springs in order to not have to level the bed quite as often. I also want to upgrade the fans on the extruder so I can make it even more quiet. Upgrading from the stock 0.4 mm extruder nozzle to a 0.6 mm nozzle will also help improve flow rate, allowing for faster prints
Watched this video few times now while waiting for my kit to arrive. Hell of a build, and thanks for all the mod suggestions. Your color choices are right up my alley, and I gotta ask what filament you used? I’m starting with a traditionalish Black and Blue setup but need some purple on it ASAP.
