Back in the 1930s, 40s and 50s cars had oil bath air filters, that looked like a giant Brillo pad sitting in a pot of oil with a lid that fit with an opening around it to allow the air to get into the filter through the oily brlillo pad media and then on down into the carburetor. They kept the bigger rocks out of the engine.
This was great, Taryl. But it would also have been helpful to show a dirty filter being cleaned before re-oiling it. No one needs to find or buy separate pre-filters if they just see how easy it is to clean the one they have (regularly) with soap & hot water ~ Thanks, always good viewing 👍 👍 👍
Use fill a small bucket with hot water and liquid dish soap (i.e. the stuff they use to clean the ducks when an oil tanker spills). Submerge the filter and squeeze it/swish it until it isn't oily anymore.
Also it is important to change the air filter because a very dirty one will cause performance issues with the engine making it run slower which has happened to a mower that we own it was running quieter than normal and I thought this is an air filter problem and it turned out that I was right. I looked up on how to oil air filters and if you need to and I found my information very quickly and it was nice to see Taryl go over this as well.
This reminded me of time I helped a lady start her Yugo at night. I thought the choke was stuck, when I took off the air cleaner a swimming pool of oil saturated the paper filter. Well it's not good to run your Yugo without one, I told her it would get her home. It started and then gave a free light show from the cracked ignition wires and off she went.
I still have both the original foam filters for my 2 1973 and 74 Sears ST 16s, I oil both of them, they are great for plowing snow, I have all the attachments, things are tanks.
My Husky BT350 filter gets oiled. When dirty, washed with dish washing solution. Dry and use an old 2cycle oil mix bottle that has been emptied. I can always get enough drops out to lube the filter and boom, good to go again :)
I don’t oil the foam wrapped filter on my Briggs Intek, however that filter and foam are cleaned and blown out everytime that mower leaves the garage. My filters have held up well and had a long life for doing this. I know some videos are done for folks that largely do not routinely maintain their equipment. Nothing I enjoy better than to trigger trolls and watch them loose they’re _ _ _ _ when someone does something different than them 😁 For me I could care less what others do, knock yourself out 👏👏👏
You're supposed to oil it so you are mistaken, and doing it the right way means you don't have to "blow out the air filter" each and every time, but you do you. However, it doesn't matter so much if the engine uses a conventional paper filter along with the foam pre-filter. You over-maintain your equipment because you failed to read the manual 🤡
I have a bottle or 2 of K&N filter oil for my car and truck. I would think a light spritz of that on my mower filter would work well and minimize excess. I might try that in the spring.
This is how I have always done my filters. I like to use the two stroke oil because its normally coloured oil eg red or blue for the two brands I use. The colour in the oil means its easy to see if the filter is fully oiled or if it needs more. I don't agree with throwing out the filters when dirty given its easy to wash them out with dishwashing liquid and then after drying reoil them. We are too wasteful and throwing still good foam filters out is adding to that waste.
I ride and race dirt bikes. I don't 'clean my filter after every ride' like some say to do. A slightly dirty filter filters better than a clean one. I love saying that because guys get all pissy before they think about it. 😉 However, after just a few trips around my yard my lawn tractor air filter is beyond nasty! I reuse the paper filter for a year or more and replace the foam pre filter when it first starts to deteriorate.
Herby you are really upsetting the apple cart. Get ready for the haters. I am with you, Herb. No oil on my Quantum pre filter. Of course I've already been told how stupid I am even though I have worked on small motors since 1965.
Good video Taryl, but I'm torn about whether to oil or not. My B&S manual says 'not' to oil the pre-filter, which is exactly like the last filter you showed in this video. Will there be any harm if I do oil the pre-filter? Is B&S statement 'not' to oil it because they want my engine to wear out sooner so they can sell more? Thanks.
Too much oil, and the engine will run rich because the air intake can't breath due to...too much oil. Personally, I don't oil any air filter. Just replace them often. That alone is a major challenge to most mower owners. I cannot believe how cruel people can be to mowers.
If the manual says to use oil and you don't, you're wrong. Maybe it is good that you don't use oil (you rebel, you) because apparently you cannot measure the amount properly? It's not rocket science, just use a little oil, but perhaps it is rocket science. 🤣 It's amusing that you're preaching about challenges but you personally are not up to the challenge. By the way, the foam filters are easily washed and oiled again, but the joke's on you for being an unnecessary parts replacer.
I never even thought of oiling the foam pre filters. Is this recommended by the manufacturers? I liked the old Briggs foam filters. Cheap, re-usable and effective.
@@Hjerte_Verke The mowers I have had the privilege to own for the past 60 years did not come with manuals. Most came with a carburetor but all of them.
Oiling the filter when oil isn't call for by the manufacturer would restrict airflow and act like a choke. You would be running too rich. OTOH not oiling it when you are supposed to would have you running too lean. 2:56 Vegetable oil in contact with air will oxidize and polymerize due to unsaturations in the molecules, and will become hard and rubbery. The intake has a lot of air going through it, so I would expect the filter to harden and take on a rancid smell if you use vegetable oil.
I don't use a straight oil to oil filters. Straight oil is often to restrictive. I use a 50- 50 mix of oil and gas. This more easily penetrates the foam for complete saturation. When you squeeze out the foam the oil sticks to the foam and the gas doesn't. I also let it set and air out. The gas evaporates out of the foam. I tried a K&N filter and used the K&N cleaner and oil. These came in spray cans. Real easy to over oil. When you spray it on do so lightly. You want to barely coat the foam. If you see it it's too much. 5:26
Just use a lighter oil dude, and not so much. That gas and oil sounds a bit overcomplicated. Any oil can work such as a lighter machine oil, the manufacturer just recommends motor oil as it is always at hand. However, I use the recommended amount and never have a problem
My KROLLER engine's filter uses those foam prefilters over a pleated paper filter. By the end of the summer there's oil all around the CARBATRATOR and manifold. Is this normal or maybe I'm using too much oil?
I have a Kroller motor in my 2000 Toro wheelhorse 268 Hydro & the dealer said to not even worry about oiling the prefilter, just wash it out every season. I should have probably listened to my gut instincts. Then again the main filter doesn't appear to be dirty when I look at it or hold it up to the light?¿
One less thing I worry about with my battery powered zero turn mower 🫤. I've been a die hard gear head my whole life.. grew up in the late 50's to mid-60's street rod days.. I miss those days they were awesome but I digress. I gotta say fellas when it comes to my mower I don't miss the belts and pulleys and the hoses and mower deck hell and the filters and goin' to get gas and luggin' cans around and gas filters and the winter time carb gum ups.. none of that nonsense. Yes I know they're expensive to buy.. and depending on the size of your property limited on how much it mows on a single charge (I'm out in the country so mine mows about an acre and a half of tall tough grass with some weeds if I set it on high speed ..and it will do 2 acres if I set it on regular speed). Like it or not they're the future. Trust me I'd much rather mow the lawn with a sweet '56' Chevy gasser! Lol. But it would scare the neighbors cows 😳. I hope Taryl does some videos on maintenance issues on the electric stuff. They're not perfect machines but what is! There's a lot to consider if you're lookin to buy one.. my best advice is DO your homework and listen to what Taryl has to say.. he sees it all! 👍
I get Briggs machines where the owner says the air filter is clean but the engine isn’t running properly. They don’t even realize it has a pre-filter installed. I pull out the pre-filter out and it looks like Fluffy's been living in there. On Briggs Quantum engines, it’s better off without a pre-filter. IMHO!
I sold a nice 3 wheeler to a kid 3 weeks later he bring it back mind you he was riding the piss out of this thing the whole time, with his dad and told me i sold them a piece of shit, I took it a part they took the paper filter and pour like a quart of oil in to the filter and carb and wounder why it stopped running. later on they came back around looking to buy motor cycles off me, no sr i dont have anything for sale lol
As the others have said, no dust in the winter. But also, a paper or foam filter could get clogged very easily by melting snow (water residue) getting sucked into the filter and then freezing solid.
They no longer put Sponge Type Filters on Push Mowers and a Oil Type Filter should never Touch a Dry Paper Filter. Sad to Say but All Push Mowers that have Briggs. Engines are Total Junk..
@@Hjerte_Verke Saying they no longer use foam type is a bit of a broad statement. While a lot of newer equipment now uses paper filters there are still some that use foam. It's probably just a ploy to get you to purchase a new filter each time since you can't wash and re-use a paper filter.
I do not suggest cooking oil or any other oils that you would use in the kitchen because then mice rats and other rodents will chew on your air filter and mess up your wiring
I always put a few spots of oil on them then mashed them almost flat on a rag to get the oil throughout the foam filter medium, and get rid of any excess oil. When they got dirty I washed them in Tide powdered laundry detergent, oiled it, smashed 'em on a rag, and stuck them back on the machines.
That obviously doesn't confer expert status on you or your profession, but even K&S filters use oil and sell a special filter oil (automotive performance applications). It's the best combination of the old oil bath air cleaner and the modern kind with a foam and/or paper element. Did you know older engines used an oil bath type?
@@Hjerte_Verke Did you know they also came with a rope and wooden handle with which to start the motor. Quit acting all high and mighty. Basically calling us stupid/ignorant. That attitude is just not warranted.
I have been using motocross air filter oil on everything from rc cars to dirt bikes or anything with a foam filter. Just soak it in oil, squeeze out the excess and let it sit overnight to get any remaining oil out. I like the motocross oil because it’s extra sticky and captures all the dust. And clean the foam in hot soapy water. It is more expensive but a lot better!
Most people, like 99 9/10 % don't and you never hear of problems e/ piston rings wearing out. Only a commercial mower will EVER need a filter. It's cheap for the mgr to include on a new build and it serves as a fire suppressor. But most people are conditioned to believe it's even needed. Taryl: What will the "dirt" hurt? Be specific. Rings. When was the last time you saw piston rings wearing out? NEVER. The rest of the mower will wear or rust out 1st.
Another great informative video, I agree with some of the others that recommend bacon grease, it would smell so good while you are oiling the filter:) Thanks for all your work, you guys rock!
I think Taryl may have pre oiled his hair with bacon fat. That's why Elkskins hangs around there so much. There's stuff called foam air filter oil, Belray makes it, that is made for those pre filters and washes out easy. K&N makes some too. That engine oil might be difficult to get out of the filter just like bacon grease would be hard to get out of Taryls hair.
I never oiled my prefilters, figgered they were just to keep out the large chunks of stuff and the regular air filter would get the rest but now that I think about it being able to wash the prefilter will help the disposable part last longer. Oh yeah, quick tip here: you can go to a fabric store and bulk buy open cell foam to make your own air filters. I've been using a couple yards of it for many years now for replacements.
No need to buy a new foam filter or pre-filter, you can hand WASH them with mild detergent or dish soap, let air dry and then re-oil. This is stated in many a Briggs-Honda-Clone engine manual
You can wash them... for a while. Eventually they fall apart. They are cheap enough that it makes sense to replace them if you value your time. Either way, any maintenance is better than no maintenance.
Wash them in turps, not petrol then wash the turps out with soapy water and rinse. Dry in the sun thoroughly. Don’t over service them and with motor bikes use some grease on the sealing surface at the front of the air box to make doubly sure no dust gets through. The turps will wash the grease seal off too. You can wash a good spare parts, not after market, filter many times.
I took my foam filter out of my 1972 MTD rototiller (was with my grandfather when he purchased it) for the first time since it was purchased, it fell apart in my hands, should have just left it for another 50 years. Now I have to find a new one, if they still make it. Oh it was oiled and more dirt than filter. It might run better with a new filter,
The foam is a labyrinth , a maze. The dirt has to make sharp turns as it goes through the foam and it sticks to the oil. There should only be enough oil to coat the tiny strands that make up the foam. You are not trying to fill the voids with oil. Think of an oil saturated rope. - I wrap the freshly oiled foam with a paper towel and squeeze the filter. This will force the excess oil out into the paper towel. Do NOT wring the foam. This will tear the fibers.
Pre-filters that come in contact with paper filters should not be oiled, they are designed to catch leaves and grass, not necessarily dirt . Some cartridge type filters have a metal mesh screen around them, the pre-filters covering them should be oiled. Oil should never come in contact with the paper filter, it will stop air flow.
Yes,I wash mine out with dishwashing liquid, let it dry out, stick it into a small bucket then soak it with engine oil then I wring it out as per Briggs and Strattons service manual instructions then I refit the filter. onto my 3 horsepower Briggs and Stratton powered mower !
You're automatically elevated to genius status in the comments section. So many are bewildered that you would oil an air filter (and leave the oil filter dry lol).
Worsh it it in awesome degreaser. Hose it. Step on it. Squeeze the water out. If you have 2, you can use the other one while it dries. (Quote the elkskins) Before he eats your dinner
there are lots of bad advice out there....lol... how can oiling cause problems..if over oiled it will foul a plug at worst...but soon clear up and be fine... no oil can destroy an engine quicker
I keep an extra around to replace and put mower back in service immediately ...clean old one let dry...oil and put in sandwich bag ready to go for next change.....it dosent take but a few minutes.....so unless prefilters are really cheap.....cheaper just to clean...especially if your lawn is not that great and you have dusty areas....Im lazy and just mulch my leaves instead of raking...try to do soon after a rain but sometimes have to do it when its dry and dusty....especially natural areas i cut 2-3 times a year...dont like them getting to natural 😁
Dawn is the best for washing prefilters. Rinse well, squeeze out and dry on the boiler or on the floor in front of your fridge where the warm air vents out, or outside in the sun on the deck railing.
Whoa!…hold on there trex. Some mfgs don’t want you to oil due to the fact the paper can draw in some of the residual oil and ruin the pleats. The foam pre filter is to stop larger particles/debris from wedging their way in between the pleats of the paper filter. It’s why it’s called a PRE filter. Rarely do I oil prefilters unless the mfg specifically calls it out.
Agree. If you oil those pre-filter socks you risk ruining the paper main filter. I keep a couple of those pre-filters on hand and swap it out every month or two during mowing season. I wash it and then put it back in rotation. This keeps the main paper (expensive) cleaner longer.
A dirty air filter will limit the amount of of air going into the carbatrator thus making it run rich.Fouls your plugs.The cold air intake on my truck is pre-oiled because it's not a completely sealed unit but traps the excessive dirt.If I over oil it, it screws up the MAF and wants to lean the motor out.
A machine that can breathe or struggles to get air will never run correctly nor will it last very long if it does in fact still run with a clogged filter. Between air filters and oil changes I can’t think of anything that will benefit the useful life of any power equipment. Well, maybe not letting knuckleheads run it would be up there, too.
Back 40 years ago I raced motorcycles I squeeze to much oil out of my filter an after the race I checked the filter an it sucked dirt because of it. I would also add grease the mating surfaces of the air box.
I raced Dirt Bikes for 15 years...we use a better oil option. Foam Air Filter oil that starts off liquidy then gets sticky/ gummy and will hold up better in heat or just normal as regular oil will drip downwards and the Dirt Bike products ( they will say they setup sticky - some are no better than regular oil )... the filter will stay better for you longer if you use this type of oil..and cleaning is the same... i usually use a solvent tjen warm regular soapy water to finish the cleaning ( dishwashing detergent is all you need ) ..rinse it in plain water....squeeze it gently to get the water out and let it dry...i usually have an extra filter so one is ready to use and one gets cleaned etc... We stopped using regular oil in the 1970's.... they said plain oil too but it is not the best option..the better oil isn't expensive and will last many years too...
You're not supposed to saturate the filter in the oil, so there's no dripping. I think you're just overthinking the issue---BUT you are a racer and whatever the budget allows, you can justify and racing has its own issues. Not sure I'd want stickier as that sounds like it would clog in minutes; whatever. For us regular dirt bike trail runners, regular motor oil works splendidly.
@@Hjerte_Verke nope...been a mechanic fir 50 plus years....and it isn't over oiled if done correctly..it coats it but breathes..and over thinking isn't what i do ... i raced pro and know alot about what i talk about.... i use it on my garden tractors...regular oil will flow down and then your filter has no oil in top part..oil is the fine filter on a foam filter....without oil it is not working properly - why they tell you to oil it....i do squeeze out excess oil...but you learn to add it slowly and cover the filter....if it's too hard to read ?? probably can't understand why we use it..only idiots use a plain oil on foam....but hey? at least oil it....
@@Hjerte_Verke the reason it sets up sticky is it will not run off ..even lightly oiled filters will start losing the oil .the sticky part of the setup keeps it suspended on the filter to continue doing the job ..to keep dirt out of your engine..as to affordability? it isn't expensive...saves rebuilds...is pennies to use....you are over thinking this...lol
@@Hjerte_Verke any dirt bike rider nerfs to learn tips..ignorance isn't being smart..the oil is an improved product anyone can use..and should....how often do you clean your filter???
@@Hjerte_Verke the sticky part also grabs the dirt better than plain old oil.... before i raced..i rode trails..we all did that..racing isn't high tech till you get into bigger races etc.... you spend money wisely or you pay more by bad maintenance .... anyways my tip was for those interested in different options only...not an order....i give help for Free..like i did when i raced....
I think I had PJ1 filter oil, otherwise I used yamalube. But on dirtbikes I cleaned the filter every 2 or 3 hours. My lawn equipment get the filter changed every 10 years..LOL
Won't the oil effect how much air is going through the filter? What if your motor didn't have a filter that needs to be pre-lubed, you oil it and now the carb is going to run too rich? Less air flow. I will try to oil my next filter and see if there is a differance.
It's just a light amount of oil; if it is dripping off you used too much. The oil is only there to collect, trap and isolate dirt particles. If your engine runs richer, you can lean the mixture but that's a given as the A/F mixture is always adjusted with the air cleaner installed.
Thanks for the info. I have not been oiling my pre-filter. Does seem like some oil would transfer to the paper filter, no matter how much you blot it. Maybe that doesn't matter?
Without watching the video, I go by manufacturer’s instructions. If I can’t find any then it depends on whether it has a prefilter, in which case I always do.
All right so you said I could use any kind of oil and my prefilter is very thin for my Husqvarna. So I sprayed with Pam and then squeeze it with the paper towel
I have never oiled a foam filter… didn’t think it was necessary? How would anything get through that much dense foam? I just take em out and clean them off after every use
Read the manual? It's just a light amount of oil, enough to make it moist not dripping wet ...and yes the performance is still there. Tons of motorcycles and performance cars (see K&N filters) use oiled air filters. K&N is the king of reusable air filters.
Yes obviously, i have a k&n filter in my truck but honestly they don’t perform as well in dusty environments than just the plane paper filters do… the reason they claim to increase Power is cuz they have less restriction. And back to the point they are built much differently than a sponge…
If you take the time and read your owners manual, it will explain this exact situation. I have a 2009 JD X-320, 22HP Kawasaki engine with 700hrs. on it and it runs the same as when new. Typically it takes 1 or 2 Oz oil. for this. The pre- cleaner for X series is about 6 dollars. I change it after each week. The actual air cleaner is still like new. If u oil it, it won't run correctly. I did what he said , buy a couple extra.
YES. Over and over, as long as you want. The old L-head manuals state the same thing, but nowadays they want to sell more parts so that info might be left out
