no its true, my stand alone ecu keeps track of that sort of thing. I think I am a borderline reckless driver. The ecu shows I am over 95% throttle about 1% of the time. With full boost even less. Oh and within 1000 rpm of redline less than 0.1% of the time
Well my truck doesn't technically have a "red line" per se on the cluster... but it gets pushed to the max on pretty much every on ramp! The ol' Italian tuneup is a time honored tradition thats proven to work
@@pkennethv I normally ride a Yamaha R1, it does 154km/h in 1st gear so you never need to ride it hard. My friend asked me to ride her CBR 250 to the shop to get a new tire installed. She rode on the back, holding two new tires. "I'm givin her all she's got captain" felt so nice to ring her neck and not even be doing anything illegal. If I take my R1 to redline in 1st gear, even on our biggest highway, that would equal drivers license suspension and impound my motorcycle. Love small bikes.
@@toysareforboys1 I agree the small bikes can be more fun. It's why I kept my 500 ninja so long after getting an S1000RR. Many bikes between the two, not just a step up. The S1000RR does 151km/h in first and doesn't let up with the quick shifter. I have long highways around here and can get well into the 220+km/h territory, but if a cop caught me I'd get a ticket. Luckily at those speeds they aren't suppose to chase. Not that I do that a lot. On the 500 though you had to ring all the life out of that engine and it was enjoyable to hit redline multiple times a ride in multiple gears. Light then the S1000RR too, so it was flick-able.
@@josephmcgowan4436 I haven't don't a full suspension overhaul. Just replace parts as needed. Other than changing the oil and filter regularly, I just try to do good maintenance. Like keep the air filter clean, making sure the bearings, brakes, and everything is just in good working order. It'll need a clutch soon. I could baby it for a while but my daughter is going to be driving it soon.
Way way back in the day. The engine manufacturer of a vehicle I owned strongly recommend 10 w30. I thought I knew better. 15 w50 has to be better! Wrongo bongo said a few main bearings. The oil passages in the block and cylinder head were restrictive to the thicker oil. Sure the oil pressure gauge read higher. My uneducated choice was starving the bearings of lubrication. For a High School kid it was a very bitter pill to swallow. Conversely too thin and the same result. Everyone can armchair engineer all they want. Use the oil the manufacturer recommends.
One of these on diesel engine oil would be interesting. Especially the whole CK-4 (Compression ignition rev K, 4 Strok) and SN (Spark ignition rev N) compliant oils, and the Ford TSB on it. Made me dig way deeper into the actual oil certifications.
@@tangydiesel1886 technically, Ford reviewed a variety of CK-4 oils in 2016 and found that the API rating alone was not enough to guarantee their preferred phosphorus level. The 171-F1 spec does appear on some oils meeting CK-4. They're not mutually exclusive.
What I find the most unnerving about modern engines and lubrication, is that we still can't buy a vehicle equipped with a prelube system from the factory. As much as 60% of wear occurs at startup. There's absolutely no reason why they can't plumb an engine with with a pressurized prelubrication system. Mercedes did it back in the 20s, and it should've become an industry standard.
@@glengillham4629 - very true. Also, since every major engine now has roller cam follower or lifters, they've reduced the zinc content (for good reasons) but it there are other areas that have suffered for lack of startup lubrication. Areas of peak sideloading in the cylinder, especially.
@jessicacopeland1644 Surfaces are never devoid of an oil film, so I am having a difficult time understanding startup wear problems. Also considering the combustion chamber incinerates any oil film but cylinder walls and piston rings can survive with minute wear for tens of thousands of hours with regular oil changes.
what about a delayed start relay built in so the starter HAS to revolve a dozen times or so, rotating the crankshaft and thereby, the oil pump? before ignition? does that push enough oil up to help prevent dry starts? My '02 Chevy 8.1 lights up about the third starter revolution.starts right up.
What I’ve learnt ( the hard way) is race brake pads , track tyres , track suspension , ect ect don’t work as well as the same road items on the road. Race oil is no different .
@@joseacuna3239 Yes you’ve obviously had race pads lol! Also noisy and harsh pedal feel and some have paint damaging brake dust . I discovered every modification to improve track performance had a negative impact on road driving. Road oils need to be compatible with the cars emission systems like the cat and GPF or DPF , leave low carbon deposits, have long drain intervals, easy cold starts, low evaporation ( hopefully help reduce intake valve carbon build up) , good detergent package as well as lubricating moving parts . Basically it needs to work over a wider range of conditions than a race car oil.
@@Puddingtops got you, driving a full blown race car on the streets is never a good time and I’ve learn that the hard way. Now I’m balancing with a nice daily (Honda for reliability) and a race car, daily take me places and race car take me to podiums
Glad to see we're talking about ZDDP today. This is the big debate in my Jeep YJ group. We get the joys of flat tappet lifters AND catalytic converters.
it also depends on what is your geographical location. I have skoda and viscosity differs from 0w-30 when you live in arctic zone or Siberia and to 10w-50 when you live in hot or tropical climate. The most important thing are manufacturer norms that are selected f.e. in my case it's VW 502/507 and in my father's car (Opel Astra) is GM Dexos 2+
@@michalkuna1994 Very true! Here in Finland we use very thin oils like 0w-30, 5w-30 etc. Use some 15w-50 when it's -20°C and the engine won't even start 😅 And like you said, the manufacturers standard is the simplest way to know if the oil is compatible with your car, location is what determines viscosity.
Absolutely right. I have to order my high zinc oil from Summit, for my flat tappet engine. The majority of off the shelf oils are detergent oils and do not protect as well as my high zinc oil
i've been buying new cars for 40 years. i change the oil in them with the current spec. regardless of brand. never had any perceptible engine wear. the interior and body ALWAYS degrade first. why the drama over the "best" engine oil? if it says racing on the label--it's for race cars. now i'm done.
I once bought a used car that the previous owner changed the oil religiously every month. I couldn’t believe it until the dealer showed me the printout of all the service records for the car.
@@josephpatricio851 I had service records for an old volvo that showed the owner would change oil, all filters and transmission fluids every week. Had a peak into the the engine with an endoscope and it was clean as a whistle. Bit over excessive but can't complain really.
That's exactly what you DONT do...Oil should be changed generally every 5-6k miles, depending on your driving style. Manufactures recommending 10-20k intervals are trying to kill your engine so that you end up having to buy a new car every (x) years or so. That's how the business flows, bottom line
We had a crazy old neighbor that really started getting dementia and he would go out at 2am and fire up his 2004 Grand Marquis and hold the gas at WOT and back it up and pull it forward. He'd would fall asleep in his car and his foot would hold it at WOT and we'd have to peck on his glass and wake him. After we all called the police like 25 times adult protective services got involved and he was taken. He had no family and that car sat for 5 years and finally one day it was all sold off. Not sure what happened to the car, but it only had 4,500 miles.
Good analysis and now I understand better the reason some of today's motor oils have been reformulated. I recently quit using Mobil 1 in my C4 ZR-1, based on a recommendation from the C4 ZR-1 guru, Marc Haibeck from Haibeck Automotive in Addison Illinois. The LT-5 dual overhead cam engine originally recommended the use of Mobil 1 and it came from the factory filled with it. All 11 quarts. According to Marc, the zinc phosphorus content of a motor oil used in this engine is critical to minimize cam wear. Mobil 1 reformulated their traditional oils and decreased these respective contents of zinc and phosphorus over the years compared to their original oil recommended by Chevrolet. I did not understand the "why" until I saw this video. I have switched to AMSOIL which has a higher content of zinc and phosphorus compared to the current reformulated Mobil 1 products. I have used Mobil 1 products in all of my "normal" cars since the late 80's. I have had hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles driven with never an oil related issue. I was not aware Mobil 1 had a Racing Oil that would meet the needs of my ZR-1 once again. I will run this video past the C4 ZR-1 community for their feedback. As always a great video and thanks.
@@vGREENARROWv amsoil synthetics are some of the best oil you can use if you don’t mind paying the premium. Probably worth it on expensive engines that hit the track, but not necessary for dailies. Just stay on top of oil changes most importantly and use something decent like Castrol, Mobil, or even amazon basics. I like to use genuine/oem filters as well but wix is a great alternative.
@@vGREENARROWv Use the correct viscosity and follow change intervals. Never pass the 10,000 km mark and if the car is used in severe conditions(small distances everyday where the engine doesn't have the time to reach operating temperatura and never goes beyond 2th-3th gear. If you want to take extra care use full synthetic, theres some pretty good stuff like mobil and castrol at reasonable prices. If you are an car pervert with money to spend use motul, amsoil or redline.
Thank you for this info. It makes sense to have these differences in oil. As we all know, horsepower costs money, and if you spend $100 and get 1 extra hp, your one up on the competition!
Thanks for the in depth info once again. Here I was thinking I was going the wrong direction for my S2000 that sees track/road use. I'll keep using the normal oil and focus on speed mods like a new visor on my helmet...
So the answer is yes you can, in the summer, since it will flow like crap in cold weather, BUT... if the zinc content is higher in the race oil, it will foul your cats faster. If you expect 200k miles out of your cats, it may not be a good idea to use race oil, but then again if you drive it like you need race oil....you won't hit 200k cheaply anyways, if you even make it there. XD At least that is my take on this info.
Catalytic converters are super expensive though, enough so that they can total some cars when they fail. Would you like cars to have very expensive failures more often? That's the balancing act they have to play.
@@cpufreak101 no they're not. I can get cats for my truck for less than $300, and that's for 2 of them! and it takes a long time for the zinc to clog up the cats if it even does. I have always run my trucks on high zinc oil and I have never had to replace a catalytic converter.
In 1969 we used 20-50 in our 440 Mopar HP engines. While at the track, we'd watch the 'big boys' run straight 60 weight. Today, we use 5-30 in our 650 HP Corvettes. The car I drive home uses 5-20 in it's V8, and my wife's car uses 0-16. Of course, you don't buy a race engine for MPG, but this shows how oil technology is headed to lighter oils and longer oil changes for the masses.. in the years to come, I'd imagine no oil for our electric cars..
Mobil 1 has come back to me as my favorite oil. I'm really liking both Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage with Purolator BOSS oil filters running 10K OCIs. I keep my eye on the oil level, but otherwise don't worry about the oil between oil changes.
YES it's okay to use Racing Oil. IF you know what you're doing. Reserach the TBN and base the intervals on that. Racing oils usually have a TBN similar to regular Oils, so there's nothing to worry about. Also, look at the additives present. If it's a modern formula with Molybdenum and Boron or even organic friction modifiers then don't put it in your 40 year old Muscle Car. If you don't understand it, don't use it. And don't think anybody else but you is liable if your engine does go kaboom.
When Moto Guzzi went from 1100 to 1200 in their engine used in the Griso (around 2011 - 2012) they used DLC coated flat tappets. The DLC coating got beaten to death and Guzzi had a warranty program (but never a recall) to convert the engine to roller tappets. I had the 2012 model (the best looking one by the way..... :^) ) and had the work done at 8K. There was anecdotal evidence that engines that went too long for the upgrade, with all the dead guts of the DLC swirling around in the oil took out the big ends. Naturally there was hot discussions about this on the forums. :)
I find the zinc additive interesting as I believe it is necessary in my snowblower. A snowblower engine is generally running at max load during its entire operation. I have never had zinc additive explained like this before, Thanks!
@@JAMESWUERTELE It's all we have ever run for two generations. Small engines will pull start in the winter on 5w-40. No need to change it out for summer operation. Have a 20hp gas compressor. Probably 1500 hours on it now. Runs like a champ dead of winter, or peak summer.
Any engine oil that is recommended for a snowblower will have zinc in it, but the load isn't that bad with its low springpressure so it's no point in going above and beyond.
Standard grade oil should be fine for most all applications in consumer cars. I bought a $10k Escort in 94 and planned to drive it for many years. I started using a synthetic oil. At just 50k miles someone t-boned my car and almost totaled it. Having worked on cars all my life I replaced the two doors, rocker panel and B-pillar, pocketing $6k. Figuring the car was mostly depreciated, I dropped collision/comprehensive coverage and started using the cheapest oil I could find, many times Walmart Tech something. I was still changing the oil on the manufacturer's normal use recommendation. At 180k miles the engine was still running great, but the car was otherwise starting to wear out. I then doubled the change interval and the car just kept going. At 260k miles the car was rear-ended and totaled, but the engine was still the strongest part of that car. I've never paid for anything more than the manufacturer's recommended oil since and I've never had an oil caused failure. I don't change oil any more as I gave up on gas engines the better part of a decade ago.
Have you ever thought about doing testing between multiple different oil brands? I know there are tons of different oils each manufacturer makes, but you could narrow it down to one viscosity and maybe all of them have to be their top full synthetic. Doesn't have to be that, but something like that to simplify it. What kind of tests you do I guess is up to you.
Of course I wanted the best protection for my Mopar 360 engine. Whilst visiting the drag racing I noticed the top fuel dragsters running straight 70 weight oil. I figured if this oil could protect these engines it would be a piece of cake to protect my engine with only 500hp. For over a year now I have run it on straight 70 weight oil. Great oil pressure, zero oil consumption, zero regrets.
I just sold my old Tahoe, that has 300,000 miles on it. The only reason it lasted that long is regular maintenance. I changed parts as they wore out. Didn’t have to do much to the motor. Just out a different style valve cover on it, because the factory valve cover has a problem with the drain holes clogging up, and would cause oil to go through the Pcv and it would burn the oil
@@kristoKR-zj8oi There was a story on Yahoo about oil change intervals. Their opinion was you can quit changing your oil every 3k miles and go for 5-7000k miles to save money and natural resources. This was back when full comments were still happening. 100s of comments about "I go x miles," and such. Then there was a comment by a guy who claimed he was an "SAE-certified" mechanic. He said the only way to know for sure is to have your used oil lab tested. He recommended Blackstone Labs. They do lab tests on consumer vehicles by sending you a sample-gathering container that you ship back to them, which they use to perform the tests. I tried it and the lab test report said I had too much lead in my oil - I was either adding lead to my fuel or my main bearings were wearing out prematurely. They were correct - I only got 395,000 miles out of that Camry.
@@pistolpete9978 i dont think oil interval should depend on miles... Mostly on driving style, how high the engine revs and so on... My car revs at 3000 rpm at 60 mph, so it spins a lot for low speed...
Nope, not a good idea. Race car engines aren't built to last, they're built to generate maximum HP. The engine under the hood of your car however needs to last more than 1500 miles. They usually use 0 weight oil for qualifying and always have an oil heater hooked up to the car when it's sitting in the pit lane for an extended period.
Do u not know that already ? Lol that info gets released on the brochure of the car and with e85 you already know how much you're going to gain depending on your engine setup
It’s not, there’s been numerous head to head comparisons and you get what you pay for with RP. I’m a believe of Amsoil myself, it’s up there in the comparisons too
@@dontyouworryaboutit_ I've never tried it. It's hard to try other brands when youre very happy with one. People say it's too expensive but at Walmart's that carry it its $40 something for 5 quarts by me. In a part store its $13 a quart
Nascar teams, in addition to INDYCAR and Formula 1, will warm the engine oil and coolant close to operating temperature before cold starting the engine. This further minimizes the importance of the winter oil viscosity.
I remember seeing somewhere that in, say, Hospitals they have giant diesel gensets in case power goes out. Pretty much the same thing is done. All the fluids are maintained at operating temperature as once the power gets cut the gensets are immediately pressed into full RPM
I run my highly prepared classic cars with "racing oils", which means tons of zinc, 10w60 (yes, this exists !) for easier cold start compared to 20w50 and higher oil pressure when hot (and bothered) in the summer. My classic mini with its A-Series pushrod engine revs up to 8k rpm when needed (=when I need to hear a beautiful sound) but rarely sees over 7k even when driven hard in those french B-roads and high viscosity, high quality oils are a part of what helps this engine not grenading itself, considering it only has 3 bearings. For road use, go thick, you don't really need those 2-5% theoritical increase in HP, and you will keep those horses for longer.
When I got my first Alfa Romeo back in the 1980s the official recommendation was 10w50, but you couldn't buy it where I lived. Fortunately it was rare to need to start the engine in freezing temperatures, so mostly used 20w50. Later on had a race prepared Alfa and sometimes used a 25w50 Pennzoil, which is what the engine builder had used. One again, not too many cold starts. Having 10w60 available these days is kinda crazy.
You make no sense. Guy says use the recommended viscosity but don't use the recommended interval 🤣 I'd say the complete opposite. Because the lower viscosity recommend is only to meet caafe mileage standards while under warranty.
I've use Mobil-1 EP in all of my vehicles, even my lawn tractor for a long time. I constantly see videos posted on RU-vid showing Amsoil to better the better option. I would like to see a credible knowledgeable person like you debunk the myth with factual information.
If this your first time on the internet ? First off parts farm on RU-vid already did it for u and second a simple search looking up TBN and additives for each oil will give you your answer, doesn't get any harder than that lol amsoil is the best period, Mobil 1 is trash compared to it
Why can't we just get the ingredients list on oil labels, as we do for food and shampoo? Our right as consumers to know what we are buying outweighs the desire of companies to keep their trade secrets.
You will NEVER see an "ingredients list" on an Engine Oil bottle -- because the rights of Oil Companies to LIE to us overrides our rights as citizens to know the truth.
Jason, I have two "older engines" that need more ZDDP because they are both flat tappet engines. My 1994 F150 has a 300 CID inline 6 cylinder that has had Valvoline synthetic since it was new. It now has 417,000+ miles on it with only one minor overhaul. At 235,000 miles, it was leaking enough to justify the overhaul, and a new cam and lifters were required because of minor cam lob scoring and concaving of the lifters. It is about ready for its second overhaul now. I don't use ZDDP additives or racing oil in it because it is reasonably nice to its oil. My other old engine is a 1966 Chevy Corvair, which has an air cooled 6 cylinder boxer engine. Because it is air cooled, it is much harder on oil, and I've used racing oil in it since I overhauled the engine 5 years ago. The higher ZDDP content and the need for higher viscosity are the reasons I use racing oil in it (Valvoline 20W50). GM originally recommended 30W high detergent for it in most climates, but as we know, 30W is hard to find these days. So, since some of us "old engine" guys are faced with changing oil standards due to changes in engine technology, maybe you could create a video for us on this subject.
Wow, Toyota engineers would get a good laugh from reading your post about your "famously durable" Ford 300 CID that needed overhauling at 200,000 mile intervals because even as far back as 1975, Toyota engine valve trains were designed to still be unworn at 500,000 miles.
Verlayder, Ford straight 6 engines oiled the camshaft first and the crankshaft second, so any lubrication issues show up on the camshaft first. I could have reused the camshaft and lifters, as there was no clatter and wear was minor. I've reused camshafts that were more worn than this one, but since I was already inside the engine, I replaced parts that help me track wear in the engine.
Could you do a video debunking the myth that smaller engines in performance cars are more likely to break than larger engines. Due to them "having to work harder". I personally think it doesn't effect reliability, but maybe I'm wrong.
I am afraid there is nothing to debunk. When you think about it, you can notice a difference in strain that needs to be put on an engine to do certain amount of work, between smaller engines and their bigger counterparts, and we are talking about performance cars, those are not going to be driven in calm manner. On top of that i need to specify that i am writing about engines wearing out
Smaller, turbocharged direct injection engines experience low speed pre ignition (a form of engine knock) much more than large engines, so there’s definitely something to the myth. In fact, the major OEMs (Ford, GM etc) demanded the new GF-6 engine oil spec specifically to address LSPI because it is becoming so widespread. Effectively, at low revs / high load (acceleration phase) the fuel dumped into the combustion chamber dilutes the engine oil and you get a volatile mix that self combusts before the spark plug fires. The pressure wave runs in the reverse direction of piston movement and can tear apart the top landing pretty quickly. Lubricant chemistry also seems to play a part - so in GF-6 oils the detergent chemistry is moving away from Calcium to Magnesium. Hope that helps a bit!
@@LubricationExplained Best exemple is the L15B7 from Honda 1.5T, the pre ignition drive me nuts, looking my kcontrol on ktuner and running always 91+ gas.... i really hope the new GF-6 engine oil will help.
If you look at engine rotations per mile, it’s often engines that run at lower rpm that last so long. If the same engine had to turn 50% more in a lifetime it would wear more. Aircooled VW engines always live a shorter life in busses than beetles. Busses are geared higher and are heavier. I think it’s a given.
@Nick F Don't be so rude. It's not my choice, Europe thinks I can't handle a big boy's bike. :´( That is what happens when you are ruled by Germans and French.
Racing oils work wonders in small engines and equipment hydro systems, as the extra ZPPD and phosphorus really allow the engines and pumps to last a long time. Road oils have much less of those because they ruin cats.
@@kingzionmusic I'm not enought of an expert to know for sure, but If it's classic enough for the computer to not notice it gone (or no computer at all) probably. There are classic car oils out there thought you probably should try first. I know amsoil makes some, as well as royal purple. Most of these guys have a info line you can call for more info on their products.
We need to experiment with MR fluid, ferrofluid and self-siphoning fluid lubricants. MR fluids are pretty neat because they increase in viscosity in response to electromagnetic fields, meaning that you can choose exactly where they are high in viscosity versus low in viscosity, but unlike ferrofluids they aren't necessarily attracted to magnets, and thus they can still flow freely. Meanwhile, ferrofluids can basically be forced to adhere to any parts that are slightly magnetized, thus preventing metal to metal contact and effectively creating a frictionless surface. Then there's self-siphoning fluids... These are exactly what they sound like.
I'm installing a supercharger in my BRZ, I live in Southern California so the summer heat will require me to go from 0w-20 to at minimum 5w-30 and due to the the stress changes I will have to use an oil with slightly higher ZDDP. So I chose 5W30 Motul 300V, granted I wish they made it with a little less ZDDP as 1300 ppm is "usually" the max useful limit before it affects the the vitality of an engine, theirs is 1724 ppm. +424 ppm doesn't seem to much over but I will find out after the next oil change(every 3000 miles) when I have the oil tested.
I never truly appreciated the how much went into producing oils until I saw a behind the scenes of the Mercedes F1 paddock, they had a couple of Petronas chemists at each practice event to analysing the oil.
Out of curiosity, which car runs on a 20k mile oil change interval? I have heard of people inadvertently running a 20k mile oil change interval with no detrimental effects (which is a serious credit to modern engine design and oil performance), but not as a recommendation from an OEM.
I just use the cheapest oil from the local supermarket, just change it more often (3-3.5k miles). I don't know if I'm slowly destroying the engine, but I had no issues so far.
"No issues so far" is the warm fuzzy feeling that comes back to bite a lot of people. Too many drivers go ahead and use the wrong oil, and think it must be OK because the motor didn't immediately explode. Now, "slowly destroying the engine" is the right way to look at it. No engine lasts forever, but if you could get 500,000 miles using proper oil or 100,000 miles with the wrong oil, wouldn't that be worth taking a moment to make good choices? It's not always about the engine, either. I've seen a few dozen people use commonly available diesel engine oils in Mercedes BlueTec engines. 2500 to 3000 miles later they have warning lights going off and are looking at $4000 to $6000 in emission equipment repairs while the motor is fine. That's an expensive mistake.
@@thesleepyweasel3775 I agree, however I am not using the wrong oil - it's correct viscosity - just a cheaper supermarket brand. Also, I've only paid about £630 (870 usd) for the car, I'm not buying top shelf oil for it.
I change the oil in my ZL1 about every 2k... and when I track it I run a race oil for the weekend and change it back to a road oil. I changed my oil before I got paid to change my oil... i just like the way it feels!
Another great review. I am no engineer but for daily drivers, this isn't exactly rocket science. I feel that for any daily driver the oil you use doesn't much matter as long as it is roughly in line with manufacturer specs and changed regularly with a premium filter (skip the Fram).
Nice One Jason!!! I use for my BMW M2 BMW oils. My Lexus also using Lexus oils. Never had one issue. I used to be the dude who was also at the local store trying to buy the next best oils and filters. Because I did not trust the dealer oils. I know now that oils are built to run with that engine setup - Great video!
Its just who pays then. If you have an close look you will see all these "brand oils" are produced under licenses, the best oils are full synthetic. Motul, amsoil and redline all make top tier synthetic oils.
Thanks for the video. Learnt more about ZDDP. The more common additive in race spec Oils is Moly. Does that cause any harm or benefit? Also race Oils are generally Type 5 Ester based, so do not need so much pour point suppressants as they cling on to the cylinder walls. Thoughts please @engineeringexplained
Oil change intervals aren't just a mileage interval but also by a calendar interval, e.g. or 12 months. So if you car does 1500 miles in a year you need to change the oil because it is a year old. The other thing about road cars V NASCAR is that a road may have to do a dead stop from 70 mph upwards (approaching a roundabout at speed and then seeing at the last moment it isn't going to be clear as you thought and rather then proceed onto it you have to make a dead stop). The road car won't be dry-sumped and may experience surge under braking (negating the use of lower viscosity oils).
....long before the ubiquitousness of synthetic crankcase oil, 1988, I got my hands on some AeroShell 80w Synthetic 4-Stroke aircraft engine oil. It had the consistency of jelly. I dumped it into the hot engine of my VFR500. The internal engine noise was cut in half. Then I jumped on the bike and rode 500 miles. The next day...another 500 miles and two speeding tickets...
I've been running Mobil1 Synthetic in my 1996 Jeep XJ 242 since break in, have 360,000+ mi. on it now. Mobil1 5W-30 or 0W-30. Filters have been Fram, MOPAR, and WIX. Neither the valve cover nor the oil pan have been taken off for anything. I do need to change that factory valve cover gasket, but it leaks less it seems with Mobil1 Synthetic High Mileage.
