I've done exactly this, on my bike and together with the rough intake and smooth exhaust, plus increasing the throttle plate diameter (with a lathe, from 26mm to 28), and a Teflon thicker gasket perfectly matched. I have no idea what power or flow it has now, but the engine now it's capable to rev up to 11500 rpm, from 10500 previously. The intake valve wasn't perpendicular to the seat tho, so I've got it done professionally and they told me I've done a wonderful job!
Everyday i learn something new about racing engine work, this seems extremely sketchy but if it works it works. Also title says simple, but this seems pretty advanced
Hats don't cause baldness. I very rarely wore a hat throughout my life. I started balding at 21. My old boss wore a hat every day of his life and has a thick mop on top of his head. He's 25 years older than me. I'm 38.
Another great vid...thank you! One takeaway from this vid is how disappointing the castings are on these heads! I would have been quite upset to have unboxed these after laying down some hard-earned cash! Your upgrades are an absolute must!
Love your explanations. What I'd love to see is, you actually porting and making the changes and not just the before/after. Maybe you have one and I just haven't seen it, but it'd be really cool to see the changes taking place as you port them. Then we could see the different angles you're doing it from and maybe get a feel for how much pressure you're putting on it and the speed of the bit. Just a thought, Merry Christmas!
Thanks for recommending CHA! Their prices are a lot better that anything I've seen out there, and they look like quality products! Merry Christmas, Eric! And Merry Christmas, everyone! o7
Something I like to do is shape out Carbide tools to go at the end of a scraper and do the blending of the chamber near the valve seat by hand so there's no chance that I can harm it
Kickass content again, Eric 😎. 6 CFM @ 500 4 CFM @ 600 means nothing when your gaining 20% at lifts below that! Huge! Prices to expect per valve back cut is that 30-60# you mentioned?
Eric, I typically use a 1.8 factor for flat tappet medium performance engines for HP per cfm. In a mild performance engine I would hope for something over 1.2. That would make these heads worth around 36 HP. Like you said though, only the dyno will tell. Great video, thanks for the tips.
On a 06 5.9 Cummins how much power do you think port matching both the exhaust side to manifold and the manifold to turbo is worth? I took out a ton of metal. About a quarter inch, and flareback about an inch and a half. Due to how the intake shelf is I could not do any port smoothing of any sort. I am just a noob with a bit of common sense. This truck has a ton of upgrades, but curious how the free ones helped. If its apart I am gonna do all I can before putting it back.
Baldness is caused by dht but more importantly, the scalp gets stretched by the masculine bone features in the male skull. The stretching causes low blood flow and then dht starts to accumulate and starve the hair follicle of nutrients. Your diet can be a factor, things like alcohol and especially beer, has estrogen (ironicly all the guys quit drinking budlight over a transgender but all beer is high in estrogen) the imbalance of hormones can cause your body to convert some estrogen into dht and exacerbate male pattern baldness. You taught me something about porting and I'd be happy to know I helped you too and if you needed a good excuse to have your girl give you a scalp massage, here it is.
I would like to see you take a factory gm 990 head and see what kind of flow numbers you could get I wander could they be ported bigger valves 2.250-1.940 valves would feed a 605 bbc budget build
Doesn’t doing this lower compression? Also if that is true is it worth doing to remove and smooth ledge? Do you think it’s pointless if it’s just a mild street engine? The reason I ask is I did some bowl blending and port matching with a burr and smoothed out any casting flash on some iron heads that I read had a decent flow rate. I bumped the compression with pistons but didn’t want to go backwards after doing so. Thanks
Can I put valves large enough to just about touch like these are, If I have plenty of room (kinda plenty) on my 7.3 Powerstroke diesel heads if the valves are 1.675” and where the seats sit there is 1.94” across? There is even more room to cut out for larger custom seats, even a middle hump that looks horrifically clogging for air to pass during overlap, that is another .12”, so theoretically it looks very easy to reach 2” OD seats if machining can cut through the integrated valve seats (intake valves are integrated but looks like the exhaust valve seat can be pressed out) I have found it very difficult finding anyone with in depth knowledge on 7.3 diesel heads, or anyone that has any videos about anything to do with helical ports in these types of diesel heads. For reference I chose to stay with a Stage 1 Cam for my dedicated tow rig but here are the numbers: intake lift .430” exhaust lift .433” intake duration 186/exhaust duration 195 Lobe Centerline 107. I Hope that is informative. I changed the name of my previous channel to Coast to Coast Diesel Enthusiasts about a week ago, and started with a few rough and unrehearsed videos I fumble through but I’m trying to help the diesel community to understand there is more room for efficiency and flow, especially compressed air from the turbo and being a boosted induction application, that’s left on the table when folks only increase fuel from injector size, and that sorta goes into outer space levels of fuel real quick but also brings excessive heat with it. What are your thoughts and do you have any ideas about how to improve the 2 valve design with a stock flow that is very dismal compared to Cummins design. I like Powerstroke and Cummins both and respect both platforms, although I do not know much about Duramax engines yet, I am willing to learn about their platform as well as I develop my experience further into the diesel design and engineering. Although the RPM ranges are much lower, Boost plays a crucial role in the low end torque development and I am confident I can Pioneer a formula to enhance these products performance and even help drop EGTs during load with more airflow through the heads. Any suggestions or recommendations would certainly be appreciated. Thank You in Advance if you have taken the time to read this and have a quick moment for an experienced response and recommendations.
Is that an "accidents happen" in the top left corner @ 5:00? 😆 Eric only kidding....personally, I knock down all the sharp edges then lay down some 3M YELLOW painter's tape to the deck surface, intake runner inlet, and exhaust runner outlets. Non-ferrous bits grab at anything and.....ugh. some of the things I've I've had to pay for. Btw thanks for the CHA info
I was wondering. Don't you change the displacement of the cylinder head when you do all that grinding? How do you keep each one balanced with the others?
When you port and polish a head like that you remove a lot metal from the head and you loss compression so you would also need to skim the head to bring up the compression again assuming there's room for the valve to open and close without hitting the pistons otherwise you have a nice smooth and fast reving engine but maybe less power
If you flow more air into the cylinder due to blending and the back-cut then you don't lose power. If you flow more exhaust out of the cylinder you then can fill it with more charge. It's a win-win.
@peterdarr7267 it's a win win to port and polish the inlets and outlet your gaining but also losing on compression, compression is more important otherwise you have fast reving smooth engine but not as powerful
When you grind any material on the head below the valves that reduces compression and incresses capacity cc, you can shape the area around the valves to flow better but you would still need to skim the head ideally
So after you open up the combustion chamber you need to mill the head down to get your compression back I've read you can mill 80 thousands off a small block head before the intake has to be cut is that true ?
Any interest in doing a set of Big Block Chevy heads from Blueprint Engines? They're supposedly 119 cc Chamber, 358 cc Intake runners 125 cc Exhaust runners with 2.300 in. intake valves and 1.880 in. Exhaust valves. I'm running a hydraulic roller w/ .647 in. Intake and Exhaust 258 degree intake and 266 degree exhaust @ .050 with a 112 degree lobe separation. Dyno says its making 742 hp @ 5,850rpm after that it dives off a cliff though. They're on a 598 cu. in. BBC right now, but if I had to do it all over I think I'd go down to a 555-560 cu. in. Just to have more area on the sides of those pistons. That bottom ring is just about where the pin is on those H-Beam rods with a 6.480 length, and a 4.500 stroke. Its a standard deck height block with a 4.600 bore. It sounded great at the time when I bought it, but now I've learned so much more over the last two and a half years, only nice part is now they've lowered the HP by about 20-25, and when I asked them what they'd changed, they told me they didn't have records of what they used in 2020! Can you believe that? Anyhow, if you have any interest, about how much would it cost to get those heads worked over, and how long of a back log are you running right now? Its almost the end of the season here in Wisconsin, so with winter, unfortunately, right around the corner, it'll be time to pull some things apart and prepare for next year. Thank you in advance.
This is what I did to my 862 ls heads. Have you flowed them before and do you think they picked up much? I couldn't find anyone local with a flow bench I would have loved to do a before and after.
Erice - EPSON ET-3750 Printer. Print quality is excellent, but you'll like the cost of ink (savings). Got mine at Costco, probably get it on Amazon too.
You aren't unshrouding the valves, your just making it look good. Try running the valve out .100 at a time and measure the distance between the valve and edge of the chamber. How much clearance at what point depends on a lot of things. From the little of the work I can see you've done you have left some flow on the table.
The flowbench would disagree with you. The small amount of flow gained from the small areas you could unshroud would be a loss of horsepower from the decrease in compression ratio.
Hats don't cause baldness, or loosing hair it's genetic and testosterone driven. I was in the military, over in the scorching heat and humidity in Saudia Arabia always wore hats and still wear hats today and im 65 years old, and still have all my hair with no areas even starting to show only thing showing up is a little gray strands of hair showing up over the past 10 years.
Changing the chamber size does not this change the compression ratio and do you make the chamber sizes the same and skim the head to correct the compression ratio?
Of course, yep. You'd want to make sure the top cut of the valve job blended nicely into your work though, so you might still need to come back and lightly touch up the blend w abrasive rolls.
Hats causing baldness is an old wives' tale - its all genetics. You have a bad habit of mumbling at the end of your sentences/statements - your voice trails off. FYI
