Simple DIY PCB with a 3D Printer 

Details in the previous video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IJxqXk-wdJw.html

Goto aliexpress and search 200w (5.5”) or 300w (6.8”) 12000rpm 48v max spindle and they come with er 11 or 16 collets for $15-32 shipped.

Don't use same rotary tool as you would have same issue as Tech2C with tolerances and z-play. Just having a Dremel would solve this problem alone, as Dremel have a much better flex shaft. I had some chineseum rotary tool and Dremel, and even tried dremel flex shaft as a router on aluminum (bad idea), killed and changed bearings in flex shaft. Everything about Dremel is better than cheap chinese stuff, but even dremel have tiny bearings in a shaft, not very suited for side-load. BUT For this application I'd rather buy cheap 12V brushed motor with a small collet chuck (used and sold for purpose of drilling PCB).

@@glennedward2201 search "double bearing 775 motor" and "er11 chuck" instead..

@@avelkm A fellow AvE fan?

Maybe print your own adapter with a spring between the bearings? Should be a nice usefull project. That is what i am planning for mine....

We call them mouse bites. 3 small holes and 2 larger holes on the outsides.

Bummer! I totally thought it's Dave!

I tried bCNC a while ago. The auto bed leveling I couldn't get to work. I have used Marlin's inbuilt bilinear ABL using alligator clips on the PCB and drill bit. WD40 is a good idea!

chilipeppr fro me works fine but i like bcnc too.

Solder mask has different purpuses. This is just a PCB without filling plane. Solder mask goes on top of traces and all the areas that need to be isolated to either improove safety ratings, or protect againts environmental effects or ESD, or improve tha range of soldering temperature/heat that traces and pads will withstand... The purpuses for filling empty board space with a polygon or leaving it blank are completely different.

@@Mr.Leeroy yes I agree with everything. My comment was related to the fact that milling only the isolation paths would be enough and milling all the copper surface away is not necessary/waste of time, but them he said on the video that he did It this way to make soldering easy as there's no solder mask, which makes sense because there's much less to short circuit with.

I get the use, but I found this wording of "acting like a solder mask" wrong on so many levels. If you are having such problems with shorting, I'd suggest improoving soldering skills starting with using no flux solder wire and learning to apply gel flux manually controlling the amount for the actual solder task. You would be surprised how much it affects the result. I don't know how one would accidentally short anything even across 0.4mm gap and especially 0.8mm here. You have to actually make effort to create a bridge across a gap, because when solder is heated in flux it acts like a drop of fluid that due to it's density is highly attracted to other metals and it's particles to each other. So solder makes nice rounded shapes and just splits across the gap or jumps to one side. To create a bridge you actually have to apply less flux to control how 'slippery' it is for the blob to jump across the gap. Comes with practice.

Yeah I've never made a custom PCB but this tripped me out not using any chemicals.....but hey I guess it'll work for anything that doesn't need to be packed in tight!

Is black spray paint good enough for etching chemicals?

yes.

Yes I agree. I had enabled the auto bed level feature in Marlin firmware of my 3D printer, and the intention was to show bed leveling for the V bit. If I can remove the slop in the flex shaft I'll revisit it.

Tech2C best option would be buying a dedicated brushless motor with collet included besides to less noise it has the capability of rpm control

The problem is basically that the copper clad laminate isn't guaranteed to be flat across it's surface, i've seen 'ripples' greater than 0.3mm. So what the Mach3 probing tool does is profile the surface and generates a Z axis pre-distortion of the G code to compensate for the out of flatness surface. Also, I would order the Gcode files, so that you drill the holes first, the route the tracks, then clear the copper, then do the outline. This stops pads from ripping off when the holes are drilled afterwards, as there is more copper around them.

There is no additional software needed in Marlin as its build in, just once enabled and mapped in Marlin (up to 12 probe level points) in ConfigH, and you use G29 command. Then follow this video to wire the touch place (in your case, you don't need one. Just clip the ground to the plate, and + to the end mill). marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-abl.html marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-abl.html

Is the "autoleveling" some device/sensor that Tech2C can possibly attach to the 'mill head' of his 3d printer, kinda like the one used to detect the proximity of the bed when using the 'printing head'? Actually, can the same sensor be used for autoleveling?

Details in the previous video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IJxqXk-wdJw.html

Let's be honest here, we've all overestimated certain sizes in the past...

@@pco1984 that's fair enough, just curious didn't mean to offend anyone.

Well I bought the PCB for this video, so I don't have an immediate use for the left over PCB afterwards.

You mean because you weren't thinking.

*smack dab