Simple DIY PCB with a 3D Printer 

Details in the previous video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IJxqXk-wdJw.html

Goto aliexpress and search 200w (5.5”) or 300w (6.8”) 12000rpm 48v max spindle and they come with er 11 or 16 collets for $15-32 shipped.

Don't use same rotary tool as you would have same issue as Tech2C with tolerances and z-play. Just having a Dremel would solve this problem alone, as Dremel have a much better flex shaft. I had some chineseum rotary tool and Dremel, and even tried dremel flex shaft as a router on aluminum (bad idea), killed and changed bearings in flex shaft. Everything about Dremel is better than cheap chinese stuff, but even dremel have tiny bearings in a shaft, not very suited for side-load. BUT For this application I'd rather buy cheap 12V brushed motor with a small collet chuck (used and sold for purpose of drilling PCB).

@@glennedward2201 search "double bearing 775 motor" and "er11 chuck" instead..

@@avelkm A fellow AvE fan?

We call them mouse bites. 3 small holes and 2 larger holes on the outsides.

Maybe print your own adapter with a spring between the bearings? Should be a nice usefull project. That is what i am planning for mine....

Bummer! I totally thought it's Dave!

suraj bhawal Bob's your uncle!!!

lol

Blimey!, It's smaller than half a bee's dick!

took me a minute to figure out that it wasn't Dave speaking :o

No, Dave's voice is a higher pitch.....for a hoot, on Dave's channel turn playback speed to .50 ...he then sounds like a drunken Grandmother.... :P

I tried bCNC a while ago. The auto bed leveling I couldn't get to work. I have used Marlin's inbuilt bilinear ABL using alligator clips on the PCB and drill bit. WD40 is a good idea!

chilipeppr fro me works fine but i like bcnc too.

Solder mask has different purpuses. This is just a PCB without filling plane. Solder mask goes on top of traces and all the areas that need to be isolated to either improove safety ratings, or protect againts environmental effects or ESD, or improve tha range of soldering temperature/heat that traces and pads will withstand... The purpuses for filling empty board space with a polygon or leaving it blank are completely different.

@@Mr.Leeroy yes I agree with everything. My comment was related to the fact that milling only the isolation paths would be enough and milling all the copper surface away is not necessary/waste of time, but them he said on the video that he did It this way to make soldering easy as there's no solder mask, which makes sense because there's much less to short circuit with.

I get the use, but I found this wording of "acting like a solder mask" wrong on so many levels. If you are having such problems with shorting, I'd suggest improoving soldering skills starting with using no flux solder wire and learning to apply gel flux manually controlling the amount for the actual solder task. You would be surprised how much it affects the result. I don't know how one would accidentally short anything even across 0.4mm gap and especially 0.8mm here. You have to actually make effort to create a bridge across a gap, because when solder is heated in flux it acts like a drop of fluid that due to it's density is highly attracted to other metals and it's particles to each other. So solder makes nice rounded shapes and just splits across the gap or jumps to one side. To create a bridge you actually have to apply less flux to control how 'slippery' it is for the blob to jump across the gap. Comes with practice.

Yes I agree. I had enabled the auto bed level feature in Marlin firmware of my 3D printer, and the intention was to show bed leveling for the V bit. If I can remove the slop in the flex shaft I'll revisit it.

Tech2C best option would be buying a dedicated brushless motor with collet included besides to less noise it has the capability of rpm control

The problem is basically that the copper clad laminate isn't guaranteed to be flat across it's surface, i've seen 'ripples' greater than 0.3mm. So what the Mach3 probing tool does is profile the surface and generates a Z axis pre-distortion of the G code to compensate for the out of flatness surface. Also, I would order the Gcode files, so that you drill the holes first, the route the tracks, then clear the copper, then do the outline. This stops pads from ripping off when the holes are drilled afterwards, as there is more copper around them.

There is no additional software needed in Marlin as its build in, just once enabled and mapped in Marlin (up to 12 probe level points) in ConfigH, and you use G29 command. Then follow this video to wire the touch place (in your case, you don't need one. Just clip the ground to the plate, and + to the end mill). marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-abl.html marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-abl.html

Is the "autoleveling" some device/sensor that Tech2C can possibly attach to the 'mill head' of his 3d printer, kinda like the one used to detect the proximity of the bed when using the 'printing head'? Actually, can the same sensor be used for autoleveling?

Yeah I've never made a custom PCB but this tripped me out not using any chemicals.....but hey I guess it'll work for anything that doesn't need to be packed in tight!

Is black spray paint good enough for etching chemicals?

yes.

Let's be honest here, we've all overestimated certain sizes in the past...

@@pco1984 that's fair enough, just curious didn't mean to offend anyone.

Well I bought the PCB for this video, so I don't have an immediate use for the left over PCB afterwards.

You mean because you weren't thinking.

*smack dab

freaking true. Dave Jones the second :-D

lol

i legitimately thought this was Dave from EEVBlog's second youtube channel lool UNCANNY

Exactly 😃

es, you sure do sound like dave also sharing the accent and clarity. Could you pls advise on another software as flat cam seems to be paid now?

With the flex shaft there isn't any fixings visible to take it apart, so I'm not sure how I can fix it. Regarding the V bit, it would cut widths of only 0.2mm so clearing vast amounts of copper would take a while. Plus at the price I wouldn't want to prematurely wear it out. For small PCB's yes I would.

I went to the local hardware store to see if other flex shafts had the same play. Yep they did, so I think it's by design than a fault with my unit.

The design considerations for these were never specced for high z constraint. That doesn't mean you couldn't install some lateral thrust bearings. As these dremels are intended for operation at very high RPM, I wouldn't recommend simply removing the lateral play by constraining the existing bearings or using any sort of friction shim or spring. You either need paired roller/thrust bearings or cone bearings that take care of rotational and lateral motion at the same time. The later are preferable since there are fewer surfaces for friction to be introduced.

I know. I hate chemical etching and then trying to drill tiny holes by hand. This approach seems much better for home prototyping and testing before sending out to a fab house.

But it's so cheap these days to just order prototype boards from china, why bother?

Time. I can go from computer file to finished board. Ironed, etched, drilled ans cleaned in under an hour.

And you get no solder mask and no silkscreen... Not to mention absence of plated through holes.

It all depends on your needs. I use the toner method to label the info back on when I need it. Haven't found the need to solder mask, I just put solder where I need it. I don't wave solder so it doesn't go everywhere. Stick a piece of wire through a hole and solder both sides, now it's a plated through hole. I'm not saying the DIY method produces a better board than ordering from China, but when you are doing a one-off board or just a prototype, they do have their advantages. Mainly time and cost.

Very lucky there! I'm about to switch over to another flex shaft with no play. Cheers!