What a great idea. Now you need another drilling adaptor with lead screw so you can cut gear teeth. :-) By the way a longer spigot for your index gear to put the taper deeper into the headstock would reduce the risk of index gear wobble. You could also use it to make index wheels with drilled holes (instead of teeth) for the index peg.
Thanks David! I have another video on indexing where I used a tapered pin in holes. It had 100 and 48 so it had more options. This gear method is a little stronger and easier to build. I never used more than the 2 3 and 4 positions anyway. The mandrel length was dictated by drill length. Pipe would have been a good option but I didn't have any the right size.
Winky you could design the mounting bracket to where you could still get to the oil port. I do like your indexing extension arm you added to the compound. I had made my tool post drill as short as I could get it with still little room to index from the side. Thanks for the idea I will have to make me an extension arm now to be able to do larger stuff.
I might drill a hole for the oil cup and make an extension although removing two nuts is pretty quick. Yeah, the extension is handy but make it thick so it doesn't flex. .
If you have 42-45-48 gears you can do 1 to 9 divisions, plus some more like 14, 15, 16, 21, 24 If you have 60, it can do 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 12, 15 by itself.
Very clever, well done. If you have enough motivation, re-make the indexing arbor to gain more contact area when it is expanding. Drill relief holes at the end of your slots, reduce the diameter of the tapered draw pin and cut the same taper on the OD of the arbor. This way when you pull it in tight, the arbor will expand parallel to the bore. Right now it's more like a small hole gauge. [edit - like an adjustable reamer stays parallel when expanding] Stay safe and well :)
you may want a better indexing pin that is either a wider ball tip or one which meshes better with the gears to remove runout. if you ever forget, and the lathe is running and the gear-bar is present, that exposed gear is a safety hazard (binding pinch point...)
There is about .0015" slop in the pin but the shape of the pin seats fairly well. There is no significant load on the gear. If there was I would make the pin more like a tooth profile (runout?). I don't run the lathe with the gear installed although even if I did I have no business running a lathe if I can't keep my fingers away from the gear. There are many places on the lathe the are equally dangerous and very exposed. Personal responsibility and common sense need to be practiced.
Hi Winky, I just tuned into your channel the first time today. I sure would like to see a little better how you mounted your drive motor and Jack shaft for this lathe. I am curious the purpose of the lever that you moved at 6:04 in this video. I just inherited an older lathe that has the flat belt/Jack shaft/v-belt arrangement as yours but came in a box. Have you made a video on this arrangement or plan to?
That was a home made setup although the cone pulley and v-belt pulley came with the lathe. South Bend did make a drive system that attached to the v on the top of the bed that looked similar to mine. The previous owner of my lathe drill holes in the back of the bed and utilize these holes. it would be better to use the factory setup if you can. Here's a playlist of my south bend rebuild. maybe it will provide answers. The lever is a motor revierse. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vrXBkqC6ttc.html
Could go to your computer and design a plate with all the capable patterns this gear can offer and then adhere it to the gear. Just an idea. Thumbs Up!
Hi there from South.Africa. It is really nice to see you using the Southbend , all the tools you make and sharing it with us . It is absolutely motivating to say the least . I have a small Lantaine lathe and a Walker Turner drill press i restored . Me and my son are currently finishing an old 2 metre Cardiff lathe to add to the tooling for his turbocharger business that he runs from his garage at home . Your video on the square colomn drill press is just awesome . I recently bought a nice drill press but with a rediculously short pillar . I think it is a good candidate for a square colomn. Thank you for sharing all this good stuff with us .
Thanks you for the great comment. And yes, the square column drill press is a major improvement. If you make one, make the two arms that support the lower bearings a little wider and consider tack welding then in place. My table flexes a little under heavy load. Thanks again!
Thanks! I love this little lathe. I got a super good deal on it but you might say I brought it back from the grave. I need to get some new gears for it. They work but they are noisy.
@@WinkysWorkshop no the ferrule was too big for the crimper. I am going to start using the Wurth fittings that compedgex showed in his video. much simpler, quicker, easier.
Thanks for the video. that got me to look for a 48 tooth gear and it appears that i have one covered in rust, when i cleaned it it showed center marks at certain points for indexing already, i think the previous owner did that.. or the owner before the previous owner... ;)
Sounds for all the world like an old repulsion induction motor when it starts.. Love your lathe.. I have a 1957 sixteen inch South Bend running on three phase.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
Yes, I bought 20 motors for $100 just to get this motor for the south bend but I ended up keeping 9 of them. I need to take the motor apart again. I cleaned it up and replaces the wires that went through the housing. I need to take the shorting necklace apart, occasionally it won't start and it's getting worse. I milled a slot in a cover and installed a remote reverse lever. You can see the lever when I reverse the lathe while tapping. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xauJcjrINy0.html
@@alexblackburn627 My 1957 started life as a turret lathe.. I changed everything over to engine lathe configuration.. I too ran mine from a 5hp home made rpc until I got three phase from the power company.... I have enough power from Entergy to run 50 hp now.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
meg I need to look into my energy company! I already trolled them over a duel lug power meter to power my garage sub panel and have yet to complete that endeavor hah. If you don’t mind me asking, how much did the line cost to get 3p into your shop not including the breaker box and such? I’m in Cincinnati in a residential cul-de-sac so I probably don’t have the option. My 1951 index 55 knee mill and lathe running together really suck the life out of my RPC’s 3rd leg
@@alexblackburn627 I live right across the street from a power sub station so the three phase overhead line is very close... They hung a small transformer for the third leg and use the existing transformer feeding my house for the other two legs.....It is 120 240 208 "open delta" that is about 87% efficient but it is better if you have 220 single phase motors....I had to cut a check to the power company for 1000 dollars for them to supply to the meter which I had to provide....If I would have had a large enough demand, they would have provided what I had to pay them for for free.. cheers; Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1 on Practical Machinist)
I’ve got an old Craftsman/Atlas lathe that has a large gear in the headstock(keyed to the spindle) with 60 small holes evenly spaced on the face of it. There is also a locking pin that fits into whichever hole is aligned with it. This is a very easy way to index the spindle/ chuck etc. it is built into the design of the lathe. Nice project though.
I've seen these before and it's a good idea. I probably could have used the bull gear teeth in my lathe too. My Logan has 72 teeth which works out well, not sure about the south bend.
You would not believe what I paid for the lathe. No counting the gas to drive 120 miles it cost me $100! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vrXBkqC6ttc.html
Hi Winky. When I try to bore out a hole to a larger size on my Jet drill press, the bit always gets stuck in the part and often the whole chuck comes out of the spindle. I’m using a key to tighten the bit in the chuck. What might be wrong? Thanks, Paul
Maybe the hole you are enlarging it too close to the size you are drilling. If you are enlarging a 3/4 hole to 7/8 the bit will grab. Bigger steps in drill size will stop this. As far as the chuck coming out goes.... I'd say the tapers might be in bad shape.
Logic and reason took over. Driving to the grocery store puts me at much higher risk that anything I was doing in this video. Safety is important and I'm sure their are times when I could do better but there has to be a balance. Fortunately this balance is now decided by me and not a paid safety person that is trying to determine if scratching my ass is a safety violation.
I think I have a video up where I made a cutter by knurling. I was exposed to increasing diameter and making cutters for softer materials in my dads race shop. In his case, he made tools to line bore 356 and 911 cases when there was an issue with the crank binding as the case was torqued up. I've also considered making an expanding mandrel by producing an incomplete thread. ;-) Gaining the expanding taper from the end of the tap/threads. I've not used the method yet. A lathe without an indexing method is an issue. I need to make a better drilling rig. I like yours. I have a tool post drill press that is pretty large for my lathes but it is inspiring me to consider doing in useful size.
I've used the taper on the end of a tap for making threads to expand a pipe in a hole but you need a way to access the bolt head. It would work well for a cutter like your dad made. The mandrel I made in this video worked very well. Making the large bore and band saw cuts deep was the trick. Making it from tubing would be easier to make long which would be a plus. Mine was limited by the drill length.
as an alternative turning a taper on the shaft to seat into the headstock bore on the gearbox side would align the tool as well, assuming the headstock bore is true. Great Idea, I will be making one for my SB in the future.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you. The simple indexing setup you made looks like an OEM. Nice job. Like you, I spent a ton of time on my first indexing setup, which is now dismantled, and a new, simpler one is on the way. I'm more visual than analytical. I have to make it to see if it works. I've gained a lot of respect for those who design complicated machines. My first boss told us, "We do it nice, because we do it twice!" :)
@@Rochesterhome I worked for a large magazine printer for 39 years. I ran a press for a while but the last 15 years were spent redesigning presses and related machinery in problem areas. I think I had a slight advantage due to having run the machines for the previous 24 years but it was also due to my ability to visualize a modification and even see it in action in my head. For many years I thought everyone could do the same but apparently most can not. If you think you have this ability "LEARN CAD". It will open the flood gates. I learned Sketchup which was adequate for my needs but if you are younger than 45, learn something like Fusion of Solid works.
@@WinkysWorkshop I downloaded a CAD program months ago. I couldn't get it to work. I have a short tolerance when it comes to computers. :) I'll make another attempt soon. Unfortunately, I blew past 45 long ago. :) Why do you attach age to CAD?
Hi Winky, I like this idea also. It does look a lot easier to make. I wouldn’t mind making both kinds of Indexing Wheels. Mainly because I don’t have very many extra gears, although I could get a Lot of combinations with the Gear. I want to make the larger one to try and make some bigger Dials for my little 6” Atlas. Hopefully someday I will have a bigger/better Lathe. Thanks again
For indexing on the lathe, why do you need to make something to do it? The lathe already does it for you because when it is threading it makes the work rotate a certain number times per inch per the thread pitch. The idea here is reversing the concept that so that by measuring the cross slide movement with threading engaged you can convert that to a degree rotation in the chuck. (So for a 8 TPI engagement, every full rotation = 0.125"; therefore, with that TPI engaged, an eighth of a rotation of the chuck would be 1/64" = 0.015625" which while small, is measurable) Just put a dial indicator on the bed against the cross slide, and have the compound 90 degrees to the cross slide. With threading engaged, rotate the chuck (by hand) until the dial indicator says the correct number. Move the compound back the same distance so the tool stays where it should. Do your operation and then zero out the indicator and repeat. I've been meaning to try this out on my lathe, just haven't gotten around to it yet, so let me know how it works out.
Glad to have someone like you willing to share the knowledge. I’m a young man who always should interest in metal work. The older generations I’m around wants to keep the knowledge a secret for some reason. But now I’m passing them because of people like you.
Your so right, why do some of the most talented people want to keep what they know inside.....it is so foolish....my brother is a pottery turner, and has some wonderful glazes, and he said he will die with them in his head.....WHY?......his glazes are one of a kind..... I may have convinced him to write a book on them....I'm a former High School shop teacher....and I shared everything with my students....
Thanks... yeah, it was a lucky find. You could use a 24 tooth and get most the same combinations. The gear I found is very heavy duty... massive overkill. I'd say you could find a lighter weight 48 or 24 tooth gear on ebay fairly cheap. Even new for around $35 maybe.
But what if you want to make a 6 fluted reamer. You cannot have the reamer have even spacing, because that would cause chatter. Would you skip some teeth? It needs 1st 0 2nd 59.0769 3rd 121.1538 4th 178.8462 5th 241.3846 6th 298.8462 Degrees. But 1 tooth is 360/48= 7,5 degrees. So that is off to much. A normal dividing head has a 40 to 1 ratio, with 39 holes disk. 2nd 4 holes less, 3rd 5 more, 4th 7 less, 5th 6 more, 6th 5 less. So could you get a lot of gears to make it so that you get these ratios? I have seen lathes with a dividing head. And i definitely need one if i want to make reamers. The way you did it is pretty clever! Would a closed stepper motor, and pulley wheel be good as an dividing head for the lathe with that kind of precision?
@@WinkysWorkshop Its how it is written in the book Machinery handbook 27th edition. "Irregular Spacing of Teeth in Reamers", page 833. Its to prohibit chatter. Ive read a lot about making barrels for rifles. And on chamber reamers. They need to have the uneven spacing. And its a real hassle to get it drawn in 3D CAD. Let alone to machine it. A reamer that can ream out existing barrels is even harder to get right while those are spiral reamers, so they wont get stuck on the rifling. If i ever want my blackpowder gun to shoot straight i will have to ream out the barrel with a spiral reamer, and build a cut rifling assembly with gears and pinion gears, like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-piaZjbdu4Ok.html. I think its amazing. Then you really need something to keep the right angles when making the grooves, but you will need the spindle bore to house the barrel. So putting something in the bore wont do. So im still looking for a solution. That can do everything, uneven spacing, and even spacing, without obstructing the spindle bore.
I'll remove it when I'm not using the indexing. I usually oil it about every 3rd time I use the lathe. Probably over kill but I run the bearings a bit on the tight side and I'd hate to burn them up!
