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Thank God i found this channel! I was looking for someone that could demonstrate this blinking effect simpler but never found that channel until now. And thanks to this channel i understand how to build cool circuits that are useful.
I love small youtubers like you who reply to there veiwers as much as they can and i think it's even better to see a big youtuber do the same, i am subscribing.
Man, this is SUPER useful for guys like me who do sci-fi modeling, because that behavior is identical to a strobe on a radio tower or an aircraft anticollision beacon! Awesome!!
thanks that you told it works on 9V. because i looking for 4,5-5v. And those hindi channels never told that.
2 года назад
Have tried it, actually works (but have used a 1500 uF capacitor, SMD led and 680O res). At 12 Volt, this make a really annoying flasher. Edit: Now have tested it with a 2.2) resistor and it blinks slower. If the resistor is in series with the rest of the circuit, it will define the charging rate of the cap.
Cool Stuff! I remember, way back then, we used to build a similar circuit but instead of a reversed polarized transistor we were using little neon bulbs. They too exhibit negative resistance at breakdown voltage. Except, then, the neon bulb was both acting as the transistor and the LED.
I heard your voice instantly thought of my favorite comedian who passed recently.. Man I just found your channel, I love electronics, and you sound just like Norm MacDonald. You earned a sub from me man, by the way it still isn't working, I change the cap, moved stuff around and it just stays on.
First of all thank you because in the collage almost 20% practical knowledge got. At this point, can you find answer of these questions - Q.1 How will you built your idea into the Electronic circuit? Q.2 How much heat will flow into the Earth due to that Electronic circuits?Also how will you calculate?
Thanks! This is about as much as this circuit is good for. It produces about 1/16th of a watt of heat which will go into the air until night time when it is lost to space.
I really loved this one a lot , At first i was frustrated wondering why mine did not light nor blink. at 5V , Then i see You were going above 9V. and I got mine Blinking Yay , I put resistor between Collector and Led rather then from 9 to Emitter and it still worked out. So I guess this is what You call breakdown voltage to Transistor since the base is free floating. this part i am very new to but i enjoy the theory behind this
Once the capacitor charges to a high enough voltage, the transistor breaks down and starts conducting. The capacitor discharges a little through the transistor in the process before the transistor turns off again and the capacitor can start charging again.
The NPN is designed so that the Collector is more positive than the Emitter in order to work properly. If you make the Anode more positive than the Collector by enough, then current will start leaking from the emitter into the base, which makes it start conducting even better, until it conducts almost freely for as long as a high enough voltage is maintained.
In Europe the BC547 or BC548 transistors are more common. Their pin-out (with the flat side facing you) is C, B, E from left to right. I found that the BC548 transistor starts doing this at around 11.5v. I was using a 3k3R resistor and a 1000uf capacitor. The power supply was reading less than 1mA of current draw, so a very low power divice. At most 499uA.
It Actually Works but it does Blow a 3mm Led Light and you can't put 2 Leds on this Circuit without 1 of the Leds Go dimmer then the Other..Cheap to Build...about 25 cents per build
LOL I don't know what happened but it started get brighter and it quit working. Maybe the transistor went bad? I put it in a component tester and it now reads as a diode and only pin 1, and 2 are reading.
This circuit is probably pretty rough on the transistor, so I wouldn't be surprised if it fries some of them. It's more for fun and simplicity than as a practical circuit. The more you can limit current the better. It's a finicky circuit, so it hard to tell where things go wrong.
@@Electronzap Okay I see, I thought maybe it was my 9v battery so I decided to hook it up to a regulated 12V power supply, it did the same thing came on and stayed on. I'm going to put in a current limiter and see how that goes, until then time to mess with Flip Flops. Thanks for the suggestion. I will keep you updated
Takes a while to learn, I still have a long ways to go. Just start with the simple stuff and keep adding to your knowledge and it will end up being a lot of fun and rewarding :)
Thank GOD 🙏🏾 and thank you very much for sharing 😉 WHY did you choose to leave the base of the transistor open 🙄 and place a 1uf capacitor to hold the circuit steady 🤔
Glad you enjoy! The base is floating because current will flow through it from the emitter easier than the collector and can probably throw off what happens during the emitter to base breakdown in other ways. Between pulses, the capacitor is storing up the current needed to pulse through the LED.
Any idea how to calculate the flashing frequency for a circuit like this? In my case, I'm working with a ~30V LED, caps and resistors are more expensive for higher voltage so I need to make sure I get the values correct.
No, sorry, I don't have any idea how to calculate the frequency. This is not a well published circuit, so if there is a formula out there, it is probably hard to find. Most regular capacitors can handle 30V. but you are probably right on needing to look for a high enough wattage resistor.
Rami Ghazzawi : Right On! The frequency could approximated to 2/( R*C ). Or rather from 1.??? to 2 ish / (R*C) . In fact, the nominator value will vary depending of the current supplied because the (Led+Q) discharge time will not vary based on current( which represent the discharge time) . Where the charge time will vary .vs. Supplied current. Since the frequency is 1/ ( the SUM of charge and discharge time) it become obvious that the frequency will vary .vs. Supply current ( hence voltage) . But not in a linear relationship because of the constant discharge time. In the end we could express frequency as : F ~~ 1 / ( k + R*C*K ), where k is the discharge time constant and K is a factor of charge time that is dependent of the charging current but will become almost a constant as the current increase.
Hello, first of all the video is great as a building tutorial. But i cant seem to get it to work properly. I have the correct components and i built the curcuit the exact same way you did but all i get is a very very low constant light. so low you cant even see it without a camera in nightvision mode. I am powering the circuit with a 9V batterie. I have zero know how about electricity or any of this stuff i just want to build a blinking IR light that takes as little space as possible. Hope anyone could help me. Thannks!
I needed a volt or 2 more supply voltage for a blue or green LED than the red LED. I relatively recently learned that 9V is just barely enough voltage to flash the red LED this way, and that 11 - 12V will work better.
@@Electronzap hm i tried a 12V batterie and i can barely get it to light up constantly but it looks like it is struggling to keep the power. when i remove the resistor it lights up bright but it never blinks EDIT: i now have connected a 12V batterie and a 3V batterie. now it blinks very fast. i connected 4 1000uF Capacitors to it and it seems to slow it down. the LED i am using should only need 3V so why does my circuit have such a high demand of Voltage? I am sorry if i sound frustrated. I just dont get it. and i probably should go search on some forums^^
LEDs have a forward voltage, usually 2-3V that must be exceeded for it to light up. Any more voltage than that usually goes across a current limiting resistor. Usually you want a resistance that limits current below 20mA. So, you can go as high as you want in voltage, but the resistor gets a lot hotter as voltage goes up, so it's wattage rating is the limiting factor.
It only worked when the transistor collector and emitter were connected to the power supply in reverse from a normal circuit. I think this is taking advantage of the limited reverse voltage protection properties of this particular type of transistor.
Check out that "ramp up" behavior of the LED cause by a sawtooth wave. :) I have video discussing this Esaki Oscillator by the way. Fun stuff. Try touching the middle leg for cool distortions.
You are most welcome! This is one of the 1st circuits we DIY synthesizer folk attempt to build. We all fail, but some of us refuse to give up. :) The next one is the 555 timer (and 556 for the Atari Punk Console) and then on to things like the CD4093 and CD40106 ... the coveted CEM3340 is the Mother Lode!! Oh yeah ... and op amps for filters and pre-amps ... I thought I could skip the power distribution part but that is the most important. :)
