I really appreciate this effort. Though I am now beyond what you'd consider the beginner stage, I can see there is enough information here to help someone get an initial grasp of single-hand spey. I was disappointed, though, that there was no mention of the advantages to the Airflo Scout and OPST Commando skagit head systems; this being they are designed to add tip sections to...and thereby offer a multitude of choices in what you want the line to do. You can have everything from a full floating line to a very fast sinking tip line...and anything in-between....by simply changing out the tip. This makes these systems extremely versatile when compared to a fully integrated line.There are drawbacks to these heads, as you mentioned in the video. Primarily it is dealing with the loop to loop sections in your guides. By the way, since you posted the video, OPST has come out with a fully integrated line called the Commando Smooth.
I'd just like to add that you can make the loop to loop connection smooth with Loon UV clear. I have the OPST running line and head and have to problem with the smoothed out loop to loop connection. Also it pays to get a spey casting lesson. When I fist got my OPST and didn't like it and put it on the shelf for a couple months (I went to a Royal Wulff Ambush taper). I finally got a spey casting lesson with the OPST and now I'm in love!
Thanks so much David for making the effort to produce this very informative video! I went ahead and bought the Rio single handed spey line for my 9' 5wt and am really enjoying it so far. I may try the Airflo Switch Float as you recommend for a shorter head (Rio is 34' I believe).
Thank you for your explanation. I was looking for a line system to cast streamers with a single-hand 6wt rod but it was so confusing. This cleared my confusion.
I've been trying to get my head around this topic, and fly line weights in general, for a while. Your presentation has helped me tremendously, thank you. One question, if I may : is this heavy head too indelicate for dry presentation?
No problem, thanks for the nice comment! As for the question its very dependent on the line that you are using but don't see it making a big difference. The line that I'm using is an Airflo Switch Float which has a long taper (scandi line). The belly of the line is 16' away from the leader so i believe its far enough away to not cause a big disturbance. If you were to be using a Skagit style line for dries I can see it making a bigger splash because the tapers are much shorter (6'-10'), but in those cases one can throw on a floating polyleader if the fish are finicky. In my case I didn't want to bother with many different lines and thought a scandi type line would be a good universal line. Also if delicate dry fly fishing if the bulk majority of the fishing you do it may not be the best line for you. I use the scandi line because i swing a ton of streamers/soft hackle, nymph and fish large stonefly/hopper dry fly patterns. When i m solely dry fly fishing i use my 4wt lined with 4wt Rio Gold (which is a half line heavier). This is my go to delicate dry fly setup since its great for overhead casting and ok at spey casting. Its not going to spey cast large distances but its good enough to spey cast a size 16 fly 30' away. Hope this helps you out.
Great. Please cut out the loud music. John very difficult to concentrate fully with the music and frankly, sometimes it just browns out the voice of the caster.
Assuming you have a modern fast action rod it should be ok and no it won't break. You may have to test a few lines to get it just right but for the most part, two line weights above is a good starting point.
First off thanks for this information it's very very helpful. Second I have a question. Since you want to over line your rod says 7-8wt to get the desired grains for a 5wt does this mean u need to use heavier leaders and tippets as well? I could see this being a bit of an issue for leader shy bug eaters. Thanks again for the video it cleared up so much confusion for me.
I fish saltwater all the the time. I now am learning to use a 3 at switch rod and it's very hard for me. So much flex in the 3wt and it's almost like I'm over loading the rod. I'm using a 250 commando smooth with a 10ft 95gr tip and I can't get my fly out of the water.
Leaning to spey cast takes time and I recommend getting help where you can. I found an instructor online who was able to break down my cast and give me tips to improve. Unfortunately the site is no longer active but i m sure if you search for instructors online you may be able to find something similar. If you can't find anything let me know i may be able to track down the instructor through old emails.
Made a few adjustments in my swing back for my D loop, I was lifting my rod tip with to much of a upward motion anf not sweeping enough and also I shortened my leader and tippet material. Made a hug difference
I understand that the color change on the line represents the end of the head so where is the optimal position for the head to be when you cast, roll cast etc. The Color change totally out of the guides or do you want some of it in the guides to load the rod?
Well all spey casts end with the roll cast, it's all about the setup leading up the the roll cast. There are numerous types of spey casts that will help you cast in different situations. Image you have just swung a fly and now its directly downstream of you from where you are standing. How would you go about roll casting the fly directly across stream from you? It may be possible to roll cast but not ideal especially if you want to get distance and accuracy.
I'm currently using an 8wt Rio Outbound Short line on my 8wt which weighs 330 grains so i wouldn't say 310 is too heavy. It largely depends on your rod, newer rods are made to be faster than older rods so the extra weight will really load these rods.