Ski-Doo TRA Clutch disassembly, inspection and assembly by RawFuelTV 

this also helped out others. thanks very much

Yup. You're correct. Slight side to side is acceptable but rocking can often lead to sticking which wears parts and reduces efficiency.

Generally when we see moderate to significant wear we change out the ramps. They will still function however their efficiency and tendency to wear other parts is compromised. Preventative maintenance like this is a good way to get you to to the end of the lake quicker than your buddy.

I didint take the whole thing apart just the main cover got stopped by the spider nut that I did8nt know was there

Shaine MacDonald in this particular video we're working on the primary. It's not terribly difficult. Just ensure you take your time and maybe a photo or 2 prior to disassembly so you have a reference point.

No

Dennis kirk

Mike Krukowski, we use the primary clutch removal tool from brp so if you care to do it that way go to your local brp dealer and pick it up. If you don't have that available RU-vid search clutch removal water trick it will get the job done!

Have you checked your bearing behind the primary clutch?

But the downside is if you check it, you would have to buy the special grease they use for that bearing. Also the seal on the otherside of the bearing could break if you apply to much grease.

mikeracer27 you'll need to look for the factory punch marks, arrows, or small half moon cut outs for alignmemt. And they won't line up 100% but they'll be extremely close depending on you application of course.

Brock Kleiman unfortunately as you can imagine clutch tuning isn't as easy as switching out one component. Every change you make will have an effect on the rest of your shift or engagement action. If you really want to do some clutch tuning I recommend purchasing and reading the Olav Aaen Clutch Tuning handbook. It's the bible of the cluth world. If that's not your thing then look at purchasing a clutch kit from a reputable manufacturer like Cudney Racing. He's already done the calculations and will get you pointed in the right path. Check him out at www.cudneyracing.com or 519-682-0626

Raw Fuel TV I have already ordered a Dynamo Joe clutch kit and installed the adjustable weight pins, but I don't know what will happen when I use heavier or lighter weights

Brock Kleiman because the answer to this question is quite lengthy. I found an article on what the weights do. As well as the effects they have on the clutch itself and how the primary and secondary interact with each other. Check it out here. It's not specifically written for a modern day Ski DOO clutch. But the principals remain the same for snowmobile clutches in general. www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/tuning/tuning.htm Steve

ashiq

Brock Kleiman

Can handle as much hp as the belt and chaincase will take

I've seen em take 350+hp

During the disassembly process you'll see all the bushings/orings/spacers. There are 6 o-rings on your buttons (shoes, sliders) the buttons themselves, 6 spacers, the pins etc... the video looks at all of those components. If you still have problems locating them, check out the"owners" section of the Ski-Doo web site. Look in the parts section, find your model and you'll be able to view the clutch and all of its components in its entirety.