Best way to know if a tractor works with certain attachment(s) is trying, and it's even better when you share, so a big thank you. That 5 gpm hydraulic motor might not handle rocks or construction debris but seems powerful enough for soil and clay.
Hey Tony. I don’t have enough holes needed to justify that purchase. I guess I could hire out the 25 to poke some, but at my age I’d probably just argue with the customer. For drama I manage just fine on the comments some of your viewers have! Lots of experts. I’m glad I know everything there is to know about everything already! Saves a lot of time Chief. If your attack is going as planned, you just walked into an ambush! Yep, been there. And yet here I am. 6 out.
I needed an auger like that 20 years ago when I installed all the fences when we had horses....Did every single one of the 187 holes by hand with a clam shell post hole digger and a wrecking bar to break up the hard pan.
I totally agree with you. It is perfect for what we do. I know some people would like it to turn faster, but I find that it just throws dirt around if it's faster. I think the T25 is a viable tractor for this auger.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Its not so much the speed, but the torque output to be able to bust through tough situations, or get through rocks, clay, hard pan, etc. Its not the speed, its the torque and yeah, if it goes too fast all it'll do is throw stuff everywhere, and makes more work later in cleaning up HAHA!!
LOL, yeah those things are a PITA. Everyone seemed to have needed one, until they tried to use it, then it just became a permanent fixture in their yard after the first time they tried it. Lots of them in my area, and very few of them ever get used after the first attempt because the ground is either too rocky, too much clay, or hard pan.
@@MikeOrazzi I see a lot of people just run the auger into the ground and call it stored LOL...not sure how that is on the auger over time, or how much better it is to hook up to the tractor later...but they don't seem all that useful since you can't safely apply downforce to them like you can the ones that attach to the loader....course with a small tractor too much force just raises the front wheels off the ground LOL....don't really have a need for an auger anymore tore all the fences down for a reason, and don't care to put any back up HAHA!!
@TonysTractorAdventure it's like drilling a hole in wood in something very thick in a tight place, you add an extention that's smaller in diameter than the bit and continue till your through then pull back take off extention rechuck bit and remove from wood
You certainly can do it that way. The only reason he says you can't is because of the limited lift height of the tractor....once you got the auger down in the ground far enough you can pull the pin or bolt and put the extension on and continue to go deeper. Probably better that way anyhow, less apt to bend something with the long extension and the auger trying to get things lined up and the hole started.
TYM fan boy, here, simultaneously I am a Milwaukee M18 Fuel fan boy. And I feel certain that if you were to get a vinyl cut decal that says Milwaukee M18 Fuel to put on the red hydraulic motor section of that auger it would improve it's performance greatly.
what size auger was this? I bet it would do a 24" just fine. What I find nice about this is digging down once. With rear PTO you have go up and down multiple times just so it doesn't get stuck in the ground.
I was told by my dealer to not use an auger on the front because if you hit a big rock or something that quickly stops the auger, it can do damage to the loader arms. What are your thoughts on that?
Your dealer has never used this auger. It is made for tractors. It doesn't turn fast. Think about it this way. When the tractor is pushing a load with the bucket. It takes a lot stronger side load than this auger can provide ten fold. Your dealer most likely has only ever seen or used a high flow skid steer auger. Not the same. Apples and oranges.
Hi Tony, Enjoy your videos. Being that you seem to be a main contact to TYM, could you make a phone call and see if TYM is ever going to offer e factory cab with heat and a/c on the t25 tractor. Would be a great fit. Amazing they offer a field cab with heat only when I would think tractors are probably used more in the summer when it's Hot. it would be a good competitor against other tractors in it's class. Thank You
It is a great idea, but it not feasible in a 25hp tractor at this time. They have the heated cab already for the T25. Heat doesn't require much power as it uses the free heat produce by the engine. AC requires an AC pump which pulls from 3 to 5 hp away from the tractor. This is a big deal. Kioti, Kubota, and a few more tractors companies have tried the 25hp small tractor with AC. Almost all the owners hate them because with the AC on they can only run 3 1/2' PTO implements. Imagine running through 6" grass and coming to a crawl due to lack of HP. The best solution is to add more HP. That is more complicated than most understand. Once the tractor goes over 25hp, it has to have all of the tier 4 EPA requirements. This stuff takes up space and will not fit under the T25's hood. Note, I did say at this time. There are new technologies that require less HP. Let see what the future holds.
@@TonysTractorAdventure The AC cab on the Kubota BX series comes with a 2nd alternator which powers the AC unit...what a lot of people don't realize is you have to run the machine at full throttle for the AC to work LOL...and then you are slightly limited in HP and in a small tractor, that 3-5HP bite from your total HP which already isn't much is a lot of lost HP...PTO HP on the Kubota BX2680 the largest BX size engine is only 19HP....subtract another 5HP to run that 2nd alternator/AC and you are down to 14HP, which is about the PTO output rating of Kubota's smallest BX1880. Mowing your lawn might be fine with 14HP, blowing snow might be fine with 14HP, but you probably wouldn't be running the AC at that point HAHA!! Curtis makes a lot of the cabs for these tractors...they probably could build a cab for the TYM series...the problem is the cabs are almost $10k without AC, and about $18k with AC.
AC pump or alternator. It is robbing horsepower from the engine. I know several people who own these tractors I spoke of. They are not happy with them. I don't think the technology is there
The Kioti suffers from the same issues as the Kubota. When the AC is on, it suffers from severe power loss to the PTO. I receive over a thousand comments each week on my social media channels. I go to tractor shows all over the United States. Every owner that I have talked to who owns a 25 horsepower tractor with an air condition Cab is unhappy about the mowing speed and the lower power. Maybe in a few years they can get air conditioner so efficient that it's possible. I know this is not the answer that you want, but you will regret buying a 25 horsepower tractor with a cab and air conditioner. It would be better to move up to a 30 to 35 horsepower tractor with a cab and AC. You would be able to pull at least a 5 ft implement at reasonable speeds.
I definitely recommend this over a rear mounted auger. I have a hate hate relationship with a rear mount auger. It is rated at 5 gallons per minute but it seems to work. Really good on the T25. I think you will have near the same results that I do as the tractor's hydraulic systems are very similar.
@@TonysTractorAdventure turns out the deere splits it’s hydraulic pressure 50/50 Between the steering and implement which is only 3.5 gpm each. I’ll need an upgraded flow balancer to run more to the implement and less to the steering.
The TYM T25 does the same thing, but when you are not using your power steering, most of the flow goes to the implement. Unless you are steering, you are most likely getting around 6-7 gpm
@@TonysTractorAdventure That's good to hear. I've never seen one on film or any advertisements for that option. I REALLY want A/C but I know a tractor like this is to small for that.
I would love A/C just like you, but I don't have A/C on my bigger tractor either. I would bust the windows out in the woods. Those windows can be as much as $1000. Still, being cool on a hot day might be worth it.
Would this work with a 254? I would like to buy an auger soon and would also like to buy a stump planer bit for it. Do you have any suggestions with regard to the kapacity of the TYM-254 ?
@@TonysTractorAdventure Thank you so much for your reply. Are there any quikk attatch 3rd funktion augers that would work with a 254? At least that you know of?
Not to be the safety guy here, but you don't want that cut off wheel to explode into your thigh. It's not a fun experience to go through. I now always have the guard on when using cutoff wheels.
Thank you for looking out. I have the scare too. I have learned to always have it pulling away from me except when I don't. LOL! I do appreciate your comment.
@TonysTractorAdventure I typically just ignore the things people do, I'm guilty of doing plenty of sketchy things myself. Especially on a tractor/equipment. I'll chime in on a few things that could be deadly or cause some real problems as a P.S.A comment for the ones who don't know. You see pretty safety concerned about everything you do, and I'm glad you're one to preach on safety as well.
Right off TYM's website: Implement flow 4.18 gpm Steering flow 2.77 gpm Total flow 6.95 gpm As a comparison my Kubota BX2680's total flow is 6.2gpm...with about 1gpm going to the power steering, and the rest goes to implement flow...but if you are using implements like you have your loader maxxed out, you get no power steering assist....so the pump does have a provision to bypass the power steering to send full flow to your loader, or 3 point or 3rd function or rear remotes I assume...I just know with my BX2680 if I am using the loader and trying to lift something heavy, I get nothing for power steering assist.
At start of video - Man on ground needs to learn correct hand signals to give to tractor driver rather than talking over tractor engine and some rather unclear hand motions - she did a great job understanding what was required - also have tractor idled back a bit when just positioning things especially when there is someone on ground in close proximity.
I’m pretty sure that they’re all over here. Dug a trench for a ground-mount solar installation with my backhoe; what came out of the ground was about 75% rocks. 🤨
question: why wouldn't you use the bigger tractor with the PHD ? Also, Pilot holes might not have been a bad idea. ( I don''t mean to be a backseat driver, but just saying
I doubt my Kubota BX2680 would run that thing 5gpm that the auger claims is the bare minimum, to make the bit spin I believe, you'd need closer to 9gpm to really make use of it. Maybe in perfect already loose soil, but not in the hardpan/clay crap we have here in southern Idaho. You'd just end up with a permanent auger bit in your yard. The augers that mount to the loader sound great, but you gotta have a big enough tractor to run that hydraulic motor, and most of these little tractors don't, or are on the very bare low end of the requirements and won't give many people the results they think they should. Those 3 point hitch augers are a PITA for a lot of people. I'll just stick to the shovel and regular old clamshell post hole digger and wrecking bar that I've used for the past 30 years.
I just showed it worked really well on a 4.9 gallon per minute system. You are right about the rear mount it postal diggers. They are the bane of my existence. They had this hydraulic motor made specifically for the low flow tractors.
@@TonysTractorAdventure 5GPM is total output, loader operation and the auger running off the 3rd function, I bet it would really struggle if it would work at all. Given the soil conditions in my area, it probably wouldn't have enough torque at that low of an output to break through the hard pan, and I don't know of anyone in my area that has one of those augers to give it a try...an awfully expensive attachment to "try" LOL. The nice thing with the loader mounted augers though, is you have downforce, where with a typical 3 point auger you don't have that, you have to rely on the auger being able to dig in and pull itself down...and then get itself stuck LOL.
You obviously never worked with seasoned oak before. Especially seasoned oak and the knot. Any impact driver would be a good driver if it did half as well as the one I have.😁😁😁
