I just bought a second hand tablesaw, and got a little worried when it produced a LOT of smoke from the cut. After cleaning the blade did not help, I finally figured out that the direction was reversed, probably because the last owner based it on the scoring blade, which was in the wrong way round. it does have an independent motor, by the way. interesting videos!
On the Felder version sliding table series called Hammer; the scoring unit can be added after delivery of the saw; several friends had ordered the Hammer Sliding Table saw and were told it is a factory only attachment with no post delivery adding of the score, but, this is untrue. One can add the scoring on Hammer saws. A parts grouping of the optional score is in the Felder lineup so just look for it. There are some main blade smooth cut higher end saw blades than can be used if a score is required, but, you have to make sure it is sharp.
I have a (smaller) Felder K700p with the mechanical (manually raised) scoring unit. Normally, I can take a 315mm (12.4") main blade. With the 100mm scoring blade, I can take a 300mm (11.8mm) main blade. Felder sells all of those, and they're pretty decent blades, so you can get pretty close to a 12" blade while still having the scoring blade in place. BTW, I've been really enjoying these videos, and have learned some techniques I had no idea about (like the Franz jig). I've been a slider owner since March.
Thanks for posting this Pete. The 2004 Felder CF741SP I had would not accept a 12" blade with the scoring blade attached. There are apparently so many variations it is certainly impossible for me to know them all. Steve
Steve, in all due respect, I differ when it comes to "scoring" saws. Here is my thinking: 'Tis true that the scoring blade is mostly used for melamine and vernier coated wood-stock; it is still perfect for those of us who do not like the tear-out that MOST blades do on the underside of the stock. This goes hardwood and softwood; and for plywood even if it does not have a coating. Yes, through the years, blade manufacturers have come up with ways to improve on this malady. But for MOST of the blades that we use, a scoring blade is a GREAT improvement to the cut. Tip: there IS a way to get a scoring effect by using only the regular blade. Before you make your cut, simply lower the blade so it is NO higher than 1/8". Then feed the stock from back to front. This will score it and it is very safe. Then raise the blade to what you want and feed the stock in the normal way. One VERY great advantage of this is; the score line is ALWAYS perfectly IN line with the cut line. For what it's worth. Keep up the good work dear friend. I hope you will be at the IWF show next month in Atlanta. If yes, let me know what day and time you will be there and I will plan to be there too. I am only 30 miles away I would love to meet you Steve.
Thanks for all of your videos, Steve. Very informative. I'm considering replacing my Saw Stop cabinet table saw with a slider but my biggest concern is space requirements. I have watched all of your videos trying to figure out your garage/workshop layout as you seem to create similar woodworking projects to me. Do you have a video or ideally a drawing of your layout you could post? Many Thanks!
Hi Bobby. I don't really have a video or drawing on shop layout but some of my project videos show the placement of my saw. My shop is a 3 car garage roughly 26x36' and the slider sits in front of the middle garage door positioned to allow the table to slide to the maximum extent and still clear my lumber storage. I have an 11 foot sliding table and it needs nearly 25 feet for the table to go from the fully retracted forward to the blade change position. This pretty much dictated where I could place it in my shop (travel from front to back of my shop left 6" clearance on each end and that was not nearly enough). Wingspan of the outrigger is also a consideration and it reaches not quite to the center of my shop with 3 foot of clearance between the saw and the garage door. I would suggest getting with the distributors for saws you are considering and asking them for the machine distance requirements for whatever length table/outrigger you are considering as this can vary significantly from make to make. Hope this helps. Steve
HI,i work on SCM panel saw. When I cut melamine material I see chips on the board at the trimming side.how to adjust and line up the sorer blade? thank you .
Hi Hector. My first recommendation is to contact Holzher for the part. If they no longer have the part, perhaps they can contact the factory and get the specs/drawings so you could have one made at a machine shop. Steve
I started getting copyright strikes on introductory music so I deleted videos with that music clip. And yes, that music was on a free download site and still available for use. Some battles are not worth fighting.
One consideration I did not know of before getting the T60 compact model Martin saw was the distance that Martin has between the main saw arbor center and the scoring blade arbor. Happens that the Felder on smaller 500 and 700 series saws is rather small center to center and one is limited to smaller main blades when scoring action is required. This center to center measure is also a consideration when wanting to have a custom blade made for cutting thicker lumber in the shop. The Martin brand allows a larger blade diameter even yet when running a 20" diameter blade and having the scoring blade removed. Sometimes a fine cut is required after a project is built and a band saw cut will not get the right results. There is a custom tool and saw blade company in Jersey that will take your money and spec requests and not deliver the correct tooth configuration. Avoid these boys at ALL cost. They are not woodworkers and you will regret getting a reworked blade-butchered that requires one to go to a professional shop to get the tooth height reworked again. Obviously, the Jersey people make blades out of balance and this is impossible to correct.
Hi Vincent. I am pretty sure my Martin T60 is limited to 400mm (16") diameter main blade. While I have a few Forrest blades, I no longer purchase them as better blades can be had for a lot less. Custom tooth geometry will cost more though. Steve
Steve, good morn; hope all is well over there. I had purchase that custom blade I mentioned and went thru 2 months of problems with that Jersey company. The blade that came with the T60, due to limited choice from Martin, was a "triple chip" and having had a custom 60T made for my Bosch 8.25" circular saw in the triple chip, I readily went for the 350MM Leuco from Martin. Well, you would know it; I stuck a thin board down into the slot and bent the overpriced 3 chip blade and called Leuco and got a new 350 ATB out of Europe. Apparently those blades from the hinterland are a notch better than the "premium" stuff stateside. I have since put a wave in two other Leuco blades. But, I can see the end of my Euro blade days after getting the bill for the latest including freight. Those blades are bout a quarter of the cost of a ceramic crown although you don't have to get something to dull the pain.?? ha ha I save the new Leuco for precision work and a 400MM rip Leuco rarely comes into play. Just received that 23ga Senco 2"er last week and having fun with assembly. Glad I waited and did not get the 21ga. Senco was in bankruptcy for a while but has come back. Norm is happy they still make his fav 18ga. I would like to affix a laser to my T60 so I can see the line for first cut rough edge lumber. I think the Altendorf machines are of the smaller C to C arbors for main and scoring blades. Felder did not have that parallel miter option for the 700 series or the smaller Format4 so I went with Martin. Felder tried to get me to buy the 550 but why buy a coffin for a 7 footer when the standard fit just fine.? The Martin should outlast both you and me. The later Martin models have improved dust paths vs. the vintage we have but with a good cyclone system we are OK. I have the Oneida with a custom older style plentum design that gives another 4-500 cu ft. I drove to NY to get the thing and got the mini cyclone that fits the CT33. I have paid for the Festocyclone due to current bag cost for the CT33. I have a bunch of those Gross Stabil clamps and have been hording those Pony #3700's as I track them down all over Chicago. If you are ever in Chicago, let me know.
I have 2 Leuco blades (one 11 years old) with no problems. Joe C. speaks highly of the Kanefusa blades. I would love to try them but you have to order them pairs. The largest blades I have are 350mm. I too have thought about mounting a line laser for cut sighting but haven't been too serious about it. I actually like the Gross Stabil clamps better than Bessey but that ship has sailed long ago. Never cared too much for the Pony clamps with the clutch plates as they often jammed on me. Steve
