This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other RU-vid instructors need to learn a lesson from this man. If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs. This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional. All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that! Do it the right way! Great video!
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed. Step by step instructions and great visual information. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!
your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it
I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster
The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate. He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.
@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.
I learned how to adjust valves by reading my old chiltons repair manual. Any chiltons or hays manual works fine. I follow the instructions and the order it says to follow. I run through twice to make sure I didn’t miss any. And I install the intake and valve covers. I never have to make an adjustment. I always do this with the intake off. I watch the pushrod contact with the lifter plunger. I watch to see when the pushrod makes initial contact and can watch the plunger move. As soon as the pushrod makes contact with the plunger, I tighten the rocker a half turn and I’m done and move to the next valve. Gm never ran the valves hot, and never had to readjust the valves when these engines were assembled. This method has worked every time. The only time you have to pull a valve cover is if there is an issue or something is wrong.
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
Yes I agree spinning the pushrod is a good way to check for zero lash but I adjust all the valves that are closed on number one then rotate to number six compression and adjust the rest it's worked for me for about 45 years and hasn't failed yet.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
good video I learned this after many frustrating years doing it like i was taught (the wrong way) whats better yet on new builds I mark bottom centerline on each lobe before installing cam then look through lifter bore for mark, lube lifter, install and adjust, move to next mark do same.
You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
Great instructions for the balancer with the 90 degree marks, if you don’t have the marks you can watch the running mates and go through the firing order to find tdc
I'm done a tons of gm small block I'm always using push rod turning method then runs the way they shut with no problems we all have different ways to do but it's good video for begginers
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...
Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.
if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.
He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.
350tbi here. I got what sounds like lash when truck starts first thing and continues until truck is warmed up. Almost sounds like a small diesel. Brand new reman from auto parts store
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
I think this is a good way to do it, but a word of caution on this procedure: If your rockers are really loose, or like the nut isn't even on there at all, then the method you show for checking TDC on compression or exhaust won't work. Because in that case the lifter will lift the pushrod, but the rocker won't engage the valve since it doesn't have the nut run down as a pivot point. It will just jack the rocker up the stud. And in that case the exhaust valve won't open, even on the exhaust stroke. So if you put your finger on the hole, it will blow out the plug hole on both compression and exhaust. It could lead to a false starting point for the adjustment. That being said, even in the worst case you'll still be right 50% of the time. And if you repeat the finger test a few times you're bound to catch the issue. But I just mention it in case someone is completely unfamiliar with the operation of the motor and may not realize they have to run the rocker nut down almost all the way down before starting.
I would like to point out as i just learned the hard way that firing orders can be changed. Even though this 63 impala has been in my family since new I had no idea my grandfather changed the firing order to a LS during his rebuild in the late 80's. So to those DYI'rs out there check your firing order before using this method.
@@charleswittmer the video is a 327 small block not a LS. My 63 327 was retrofitted with a LS head and LS firing order to match. Explain your point again grandpa?
Great point about lifting the socket, I could see myself screwing the adjustments all up cuz the socket was holding the pushrod down... Still don't quite understand why the "spinning method" is wrong though...
when you turn off the engine some of the valves will be open the spring pressure will blead all the pressure out of the lifter so after it sits for a while those lifters will have plungers that are loose you can push the lifter plundger up and down by hand the lifters that have cloeed valves will be pumped up they will feel solid if you try to move the plundger up and down so some of them will spin all the way down the the bottom of the plundger travel (Way to Tight) the others that are pumped up will not spin as soon as you get to 0 lash (too Loose)
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks for your reply, I think I understand now....I think what you are saying is that it is fairly easy to "spin" the push rod even when the plunger is compressed slightly, much less friction. I "readjusted" the lifters on my 73 Chevy when it had over 200,000 miles on it. There was no real clattering, just a bit more on cold start up...I remember the "half turn down after zero lash" method you talked about, but obviously did it wrong...The engine would barely run after I "readjusted" the lifters, so ended up loosening most of them a 1/4 turn or so.... Sure wish I still had that car....
Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.
@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!
@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.
Something you said is very important. You said dont use the spin lash method because some of you lifters might be collapsed and some pumped up. Thats a Problem itself no matter if you use up/down lash or the spin. You want all your lifters to be released. Meaning fully extended. Period. If some of your lifters are collapsed and some are not. Your always gonna have problems. .
exhaust just starts to open adjust intake. intake just closes, adjust exhaust. its a lot easier and faster. it works on any engine, hydraulic or solid. any number of cylinders.
I never use the factory type lock nuts, they can & DO rattle loose. I always spend the extra few bucks for a set of allen screw polylock rocker nuts as they can't ever come loose when tightened correctly. ( yes, even on a stock rebuild) Plus, they can be adjusted for just about ever ! and never back off when you lock em down .
I have built thousands of SBC in the last 30 years with stock rocker nuts never had a single one come loose most people don't realize they are 1 time use only so every build needs to have a new set of rocker nuts the problem of backing off happens because people build an engine and try to reuse the old rocker nuts and they will back off from engine harmonics and vibration because they lose their ability to self-lock after being removed and reinstalled
Am I in the Mandela Effect? I remember when I was young, before I went to diesel, All the manuals I looked at stated 3/4 turn static or running on stock sbc and 1 turn on inline 6. They stated, it puts the lifter in the middle of its travel. With the valve covers off I like the valve overlap method, as far as I know all piston engines fire on closed valves.
Except if the lfter pumps up and keeps the valve from completely seating. Closer to zero lash also gives the lifter more chance to stabilize with 1/8th turn down.
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
Stock or not, always adust intake, then the exhaust, on separate rotations. You adjust the lifter on the OPPOSITE order of fire from the one that is FULLY OPEN. That is the ONLY WAY you can be on the very back of the lobe on the base circle. With #1 intake fully open, adjust #6 intake 1/2 turn in from ZERO lash. 1 - 6 8 - 5 4 - 7 3 - 2 6 - 1 5 - 8 7 - 4 2 - 3
Lift push rod, don't spin. Push rods have round balls on both ends, they are going to spin so false reading. Rocker moves side to side! Yes, it pivots on ball in the center and push rod. False. Used GM specs of 3/4 turn past zero lash, otherwise you will revisit the adjustment. Use sister cylinders as #1 Exh goes down, intake goes up. #5 is sister cylinder on base circle of cam, it is adjusted next. Order; 1,8,6,5,4,3,2 Sisters; 1-5 8-6 4-7 3-2 (Firing order, cut in half) Rock the first / adjust I & E on next sister. 6-1 5-8 7-2 2-3 Rock ------Adjust + 3/4 down. DK, ASE master since 78, retired
@@charleswittmer After all, I use metal dye on valve tips to see if the middle target is dead on. Ford 360cu in were the worst for guide wear. You could see light thru the sides.
Seems to me as long as the piston is coming up on compression stroke, you could adjust both. Is this wrong or does it have to be tdc? Thanks, really enjoy your videos.
great video but i have to twiddle all three of my thumbs to get it right , i stick one in the spark plug hole and the other in the exaughst hole and use the long shaft to get the lash where it needs to be and fuck it up every time
