Excelente muy bien me gusto y es así como se debe trabajar con mucho orden y limpieza de las partes para mayor seguridad solo un detalle de mi parte para los que nos gusta para aprender la cámara muy largo hay detalles importantes que no se ven muy bien. Un saludo desde Costa Rica Cental America.
You can buy a much better Chinese engine at harbour freight or princess auto with a cast iron bore and ball bearings. In 1960 this was a great engine but it stood still while time marched on
how does the kill switch stop the spark; does it ground it or unground it, I once thought that when the handle is pulled for starting that it grounded the coil for starting, but that doesn't seem to be the case after all. I don't understand how it works to start and stop the engine except for the brake that stops the spinning.
Nice Video although the ring end gaps should be 120° apart not 30°. on my motor i bough at a yard sale i had to hone the cylinder for a 1 hundredth over Piston. I also replaced the crankshaft seals and the seals on the PTO. you did not use a locking mechanism for the connecting rod cap bolt nuts like the OEM bolt nut lock tabs or at least loctite blue
I have this exact engine on my lawn edger, and I've been looking for a replacement gas tank. Do you know the part number? Any help would be appreciated. I have enjoyed this video a lot.
Doing the same for my 3.5 horizontal shaft engine. What determined which case gasket to use? Since there are 3 in the gasket set, did you measure the thickness of the original gasket or did you use a dial indicator to determine the end play? What are the end play specs for this particular engine? Thanks... Louie
That is a great question... Sorry, you're right, I did not mention any socket sizes. I like to have my students find what size they need either through trial and error or by looking in the manual. With that said, unfortunately I do not remember the size I used for the flywheel. I will try to remember to check when I get back to school and post a reply. Thanks for watching!
They’re different for each model. Yours probably isn’t the same as his which is why he said to reference the manual. You can look yours up online by looking at your model numbers specs
@@knightfallgame Mine is exactly like is, 3.5 hp, that’s why I watched his video, hoping to get the right info, I don’t like to put more torque than the one recommended by the manufacturer.
@@charger440 for all Briggs L head under 13cu in (about 5hp) head bolts 140 inch lbs, Conn rod 100 inch lbs, and flywheel nut is between 55 and 65 ft lbs, increasing with size generally. Crankcase cover is 85 inch lbs except for some weird 10 cu inch models that like more. Source: just reading it right off the Briggs service manual.
You mistakenly mentioned the ring positions as 30 degrees offset; while they are set at 1/3 of the circle apart, correctly they are 120 degrees from each opening. A complete circle is 360 degrees, but most realize what you meant.
What a shame, why use plastics gear against metal gear, so maybe when they break you have to buy a new one again? What is the logic of using weak parts inside the engine? No one will try to fix it for nothing, when you can buy a new one with 0 interest for 12 months to pay at Home Depot!
Cheap and good enough. Not many companies could build as inexpensive and engine that was still good enough for most home owners. Honda Stayed clear of this market because they could not compete. Even some Chinese clone Honda and kohler engines today use plastic cams. Good enough and long lasting enough. The plastic cam was an inovation Also quiet.... No one will fix it because its so cheap to manufacture a new one.
The ! BIGGEST ! PLIE ! OF ! CRAP !! ENGINE !! TO !! EVER ! WASTE !! TIME !! FIXING !! IT !! ONLY ! EVER ! HAD !! TWO ! OF THEM ! AND ! SAID ! GOOBYE ! TO ! CRAPPY!! ! BRIGGS ! AND ! STRATTON !! IT !!QUITE SIMPLY !! BELONGS !! IN ! THE ! METAL !! SHREADDER !!
