Thank you for the clear and concise instruction and video quality. I sincerely appreciate it! The Mercedes shop wanted an arm, a leg and my classic wrist watch for parts and labor.
Thanks, you push nice videos. My 2 cents experience: I put the following coated discs from ATE (ref 24.0110-0331.1) 2 years ago, so far nearly no rust. For the lubrication of the guides, I used Liqui Moly Ceramic paste (ref 3418), quiet resistant to salt/water.
"yeah well, what can I say, it's a brake disc" has no reason being this funny, but it is :D And really good to learn about the brake pads, I just got my summer tires and I asked specifically to please check my brakes and they said the pads need to be replaced in a couple months (appointment already made in 2,5 months from now), but I couldn't help but worry if it's dangerous. Good to know it would make a strange sound if too worn!
I only plan to "downgrade" to a smart 451 soon, your videos are really enjoyable to watch in the mean time. Keep up the good work, will be following you. Regards from Germany!
Probably best to go onto the Euro Car parts or Autodoc app or website. They are pretty good at giving all the specs on there and will have far more detail than I can provide. Good luck with the Hillman Minx - great bit of classic motoring there!
Your brake pads came with bolts. Mine were advertised with bolts (Amazon) bu came without bolts. The seller told me I don't need new bolts and to use the old ones, so I am wondering why bolts are supplied with some. Is it because they need replacing each time the pads are changed, or just in case the old bolts are corroded or damaged during removal? I have bought new disks and pads but after watching your video I think I should get some more things such as brake cleaner, copper slip, and a breaker bar. Then I should be prepared 🙂 Thank you for your video, it is very helpful. It would have been useful to also see the jacking points but sure I can work that out for myself, or find another video.
Sometimes you get bolts, other times not - I’ve seen both over the years. If concerned, you could probably pick the bolts up from the main dealer for very little money. It’s nice to do the finishing touches when carrying out a job! The jacking points are marked out by arrows/indentations on the plastic side skirts. As these cars are so short, jacking up at the front or rear point on a given side can raise the whole side of the car which makes positioning of an axle stand very straightforward. Work safe and I hope it goes well!
Unfortunately not, the bolts holding it in place are only accessible once the disc is off. To make it worse they can also be seized on older vehicles or coastal cars.
There are two designated jacking points on each sill, indicated by a little triangle at each location on the plastic sill covers, underneath. If in doubt, double check the handbook for precise locations.
I enjoy your videos and they are very informative, but in this particular one when you used the flat screwdriver as a prybar on the pad to compress the piston I found myself putting my hands up screaming "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!" Lol. Also, no need to be so stingy with the grease on the face of the hub. Great video though.
Haha. That is a very old screwdriver which is perfect for just easing the piston in just a little so the pads can overcome the lip on the disc when removing the caliper. The pads and discs were trash anyway so no worries if they got damaged in the process. I’m pretty frugal with the copperslip as if applied too generously, centrifugal forces spin it out to places I don’t want it. Thank you!