Yeah you need to start using flux and also invest in some wide kapton tape to use to sheild other parts from the heat. But turned out alright well done.
Yep, flux is your friend and would have helped the surface tension of the solder pull the package back into alignment. And yes, kaptan (or even some aluminium foil) does a great job of protecting the "melty bits" that may have been added after the initial reflow operation :-)
I'd like to try a silicon baking sheet with various shapes cut into it. Got to get all the gear first. (Actually going to try the technique with a heat gun and a Pelican HDPE dinghy with a hole in it, should protect other areas from the heat.)
i am also a SMD "noob" and i found that flux and new solder makes everything easier and leaves me with better results. i've done like you did this in the past but i found sometimes the solder kindof "dies" on me and makes a really weak join. but after watching folks like louis rossman and other smd workers i learned the importance of flux and fresh solder. been following you for a long time and i like all your stuff and i wish we were neighbors! =) we share most interests but i am more mechanical and want to learn coding so bad. seems really hard tho.
Chris - (I think it's Chris, right?) You are AMAZING!!!! I've told you many times, but have to say it again - I just love your vids and each time I see you've posted one, it makes my day! It seems like our brains are on the same wavelength because you post videos on things I think about, but never have the courage to try - and you inspire me to try them. For the TS100, I literally got mine last week and the very first thing I did was take it apart and remove the barrel connector and replace it with one I had laying around (one attached to a cord). I direct soldered it to the board of the TS100 and now the unit has about 2" of cord coming out of it with a barrel connector that easily attaches to the jack of my goggle power cord and many others (i found the TS100's barrel connector to be very "un-standard" - it didn't fit anything I had laying around - and I sure wasn't going to buy one if I could MAKE one, lol) I'll send you pictures if you want, just let me know. About replacing that gyro - that was simply amazing man. Great job! (when you dropped the old one on the floor I busted out laughing - that's SO something I would do - "that one's long gone..." lol Most importantly, Thank you! I take on all these little endeavors too, but I just don't have the patience to document it all and post videos because it takes SO MUCH MORE TIME and effort to film and edit them - and the manner with which you deliver them is so well done and pleasant to watch (not to mention your sense of humor) so thank you for all your hard work. Keep em' coming man - just can't wait to see whats next.
Well done on you QFN package swap. I've done a bunch of MPU6000 replacements on the CC3D and Revos when I was Project Manager for Openpilot, and built a lot of prototypes boards for testing like OPlink Mini with the soldering team. When you need to replace one just add some no-clean flux and Kapton tape the connectors to protect them from heat or you can sheld them with some thin metal, reflow with how air is the only way to get them off without overheating. The reflow temp for the QFN is (260 +5/-0°C), so you had a good outcome.
Wonderful, I diid the same a few moths back and was just as succesfull with virtually the same equipment. I did clean up the before I soldered the mu6000 on and instead of using solder paste I used a lot of flux. The flux recommended by Louis Rossmann actually. I too have started keeping all the broken ESC's etc... It just is so darn fun and satisfying to do ! Congratulations on your succes!
Dear Chris, Like so many already said here: FLUX is the key ! Put the right amount, move your heat blower around the chip until it place by itself, and job done , thats'it ! But anyway , nice first try ;)
yeah with flux smd rework is easy the flux just sucks the part in to place .. assuming you dont have your air turned to max flow. and you can allways dress the pads aafter with an iron tined with solder after if you want. clean up flux with a bit of iso and your done. Daunting at first. but easy after. This vid show how easy it is even as even without flux you can achieve success most times
To stop the connector melting remove it, but it requires another bit of skill. Get a small flat screwdriver & try & lift just the plastic without digging into the PCB with the screwdriver. Do this at one end then the other until the plastic comes off. You can do this to most connects up-to floppy & motherboards IDE slots, but with longer connects you have to start at one end, then the middle then the other end. Repeat this until plastic holder is removed. It requires a bit of skill as the number of pins go up, but it's something I have mastered some time ago. NOTE: You are not de-soldering any pins, that stays on the PCB. You can do this to a lot more connects, ie fan, USB, serial, ect, ect. This also includes right angle connects too. I only remove the plastic holder when soldering near these header's, but I never remove/de-soldered the pins itself from the PCB, that always stay on the PCB.
Oh and about your thoughts at around 10:20. What I find the easiest and most reliable way to do this kind of repair is like this: wick all the solder from the pads with a solid amount of flux. Apply fresh leaded solder (easiest to handle, and least likely to fail), it's ok if there is a small blob of solder in the center, we'll take care of that later, if it's too big its going to be harder to place the ic but not impossible. if it's too little the connection might not be proper. Apply more flux. Heat the pad until solder melts (leaded solder melts way easier), place the ic on the pad. Surface tension should start pulling it into the right spot. Apply slight pressure on the ic and all excess solder from the big pad will form a blob outside of the ic, just ignore it for now. Now surface tension will pull the ic into the right position. gently poke it with your tweezers until the ic has jumped into the correct position by itself. No apply some more flux and use your iron with fresh solder and gentlygo around the edges and reheat the pads to make sure all of the have the right amount of solder on it (flux will take care of this) and is properly connected. After this the blob of solder will be gone as it stays on your iron. the pads only take as much solder as they need as long as flux is present. Lastly, let it cool down a little and remove the remaining flux with 99.9% IPA. Done.
i am amazed that you do not have more of a following. i read quite a few of these comments and they, as i, seem to have the same appreciation for the VERY interesting and varied projects you take on, as well as the quality of production you place into your videos. please keep up the great work, i've watched every one of your vids for a coupla years now! just moved from Coral Springs, Florida up to the central part so now i will be signing with: Russ from Ocala, Florida - usa
Hi Russ, my overall channel views have declined from an average of about 9000/day to 4000/day over the last couple of years, while during that same time gaining 25k subscribers. Doesn't make a lot of sense really.
@@iforce2d I have subbed to quite a few sites where I pop in every few weeks or so. Not sure how the stats are collected, but I fig that views per day would be related to the number of vids published, but over what period? Ytd? last 360? Is it the # of subs or # of views what drives the money? Still and all, It must be a great feeling knowing that your work reaches out to so many people!
I think by the book method would be to clean the pads, flux solder and regular iron works well. You can remove excess solder by a wick. Then probably re-tin the pads and use flux or use solder paste for fresh soldering. With smd stuff it really helps to use flux when soldering (and desoldering). Well done for the first try if you're really new to this. It takes a bit of trying to get used to what temperatures and air flows work and what not.
I’ve done a much easier SMD job using a Banggood microscope. One of those tiny capacitors let out the smoke on a tiny micro kwad. One of those brushless all in one guys. That use the PCB as the frame as well. I had won it at a race event. (Also ran, I didn’t actually finish a single race lol) I contacted the seller of the product and to my surprise they sent a whole new one. As soon as I plugged it in, another cap smoked. So I had two free micros and nothing to loose. I successfully replaced a burned cap with a good one. Plugged it in. And yet another cap smoked. I gave up at that point. But a fun and confidence inspiring little job. I did go on to successfully replace the giro ribbon on a kakute f4 board.
I played around with some settings in the video editor, will try this gamma+contrast change for next time: www.iforce2d.net/tmp/smdRecording-before.jpg www.iforce2d.net/tmp/smdRecording-after.jpg The 'after' is about what I see on the screen while I'm using it.
As many have already said - flux is your friend here. Also, you may find a higher air temp helps. Although this might seem counter intuitive, it actually cuts down the risk of damage to both the device you are (de)soldering, and also collateral damage to surrounding components because the solder melts faster before everything else soaks up the heat. I have found that masking the rest of the board with some thick aluminium foil, or captan also helps save plastic parts from heat damage. And... It's a bit late now as you've just bought it, but a binocular microscope makes a huge difference. As you have found out - lack of depth perception is a real pain.
1:45.. Open it and remove the Jack Connector. Then add very flexible (Silicone type) multi-strand/wires/Cable to the connections on the PCB. Hot Glue for a stain relief if nothing else. Then a good quality inline Jack connector of your choosing on the other end of the flexible (Silicone type) multi-strand/wires/Cable. Will be easy to change the connector in the future. 7:05.. use an exacto knife (or simiilar tool) and put a scratch mark on the defective chip. You may thank yourself later.
Looks good. A couple things though. If you're putting any pressure at all on the chip you're removing its too much pressure. When all the solder is molten the chip will come of with no effort at all. Next some kapton tape around where you are working helps to shield other components (aluminum foil works as well its just a bit more cumbersome) . Finally you'll have better success if you get a good flux paste and use it at every step (clean the residue with 99% ipa each time) . Super finally it'll help a lot of use solder wick to remove the old solder then add fresh solder to each pad before setting the new chip.
The secret is flux, flux and more flux...BEFORE attempting to remove the chip. Secondly, don't try to lift the chip before all the pins are heated sufficiently otherwise it will tear part of the printed circuit. This is done by giving the chip a light tap during the heating to see if it moves. When removed, flux again and suck up all the remainder solder with a GOOD solder wick tape. Then apply solder paste to all pins and reheat. Doesn't matter if it overlaps slightly as any excess can normally be removed with the solder wick. Surface tension is usually enough to move the chip to a central location all on it's own without any interference. Practice makes perfect.... :) Kapton tape around adjacent parts will protect against inadvertent destruction. Also a product called Quik Chip that can help with removal of multipin ic's. Plenty of videos on the subject out there.
So in response to your question about the TS100 connection issue: I haven't really ever had an issue. You might consider opening up the iron and seeing if the ground contact is properly tensioned. Either that or locate a barrel jack with a tighter fit. I love my TS100 and use it for basically everything, especially running it on 24v makes it run really well. Good heat output and very stable control on the higher voltages.
I've replaced tiny smd voltage regulators and cap's on micro vtx's more times than I care to think about as well as some other smd work. I only use a normal iron though a hot air would be great for qfn package chips and to assemble my own boards. It feels good when you can fix something and have it back in the air without having to wait for a replacement not to mention saving a couple bucks is always nice in this hobby. Also as some others have said use flux and even clean and re-tin the pads if it needs it and check out Louise Rossmann on youtube for pointers on smd work. I wouldn't worry too much though just don't hold it in one spot too long you want to heat the board evenly by moving the air in a circle around the part and if you heat it up enough it should pull itself right into place with capillary action especially if there is a little flux or even solder paste on the pads.
When you remove a component get some flux and some solder wick .. remove the old solder and clean the pad ... then you can either put solder paste and hot air the chip or you can take your soldering iron and some flux .. give the pads some new solder and hot air ... nice video .....
You’ve inspired me to try and get at lease one good fc from my flight controller graveyard , lol. Been wanting to invest in a heat gun, probably would save me some money in the long run. Enjoyed watching
Nice!! I would recommend using fresh (preferably leaded) solder and solder wick with a soldering iron to clean both the board and the chip. I recommend leaded solder because it flows much more easily and at a lower temperature. People also seem to like covering everything in flux.
I would definitely have removed the sodler from the pads and pins. Mainly because replacing it with leaded one makes it so much easier to solder, but also because you will maybe have very different amounts of solder on the pads, which could lead to dry joints. Oh, and .... FLUX!!!
I have found with smd rework using solder paste that you have to really clean the pcb after with solvent and a soft brush (tooth brush) as any unused paste does ball and can easily bridge joints and cause shorts.Use plenty of flux before and after as this will really aid heat transfer, also you can use sticky siver backed tape to mask around the component you are replacing, this stops any discrete components flying away!
Don't pull on the components, wait until the solder is fully melted before lifting, you risk damage to the pads on the board or components pulling as the solder begins to melt. If you can get the replacement component lined up, just apply genetal pressure with the tweezer in the center of the component to hold it in place till the solder melts and the surface tension does the work, you should really be using flux on your work as well. But at the end of the day, the repair worked and that's all that matters, we refine our techniques in everything we do though experience and you will find what works best for you.
Yeah...stereo vision. I have an even cheaper microscope, without the HDMI and other jewelry, but good enough for soldering. The first thing I noticed - immediately - was the stereo vision handicap. I'm thinking about buying one of those stereo magnifying goggles or whatever they are called. Those things used by watchmakers. To improve your SMD soldering skills - Louis Rossmann does some really practical soldering and repair work. And if you are masochistically inclined - try watching the Androkavo channel and feel clumsy at best.
apart from what dave said, don't apply force to the components especially before the solder is melted. it worked well this time, but you will pull pads if you continue. just warm it up, and gently poke it with the tweezers every now and then. you will get a clear indication that the solder has melted once it has. no need for force of any sort.
Eyelids still open here... 1:50 The pricing thing is just marketing. However the real world case study that is used to qualify this scheme is the department store retailer JC Penny here in the USA. They, like most department stores, had regular "sales" in their stores. At one point in the recent past someone within the company calculated the cost of these promotions and proposed selling all merchandise at a specific flat margin. This pricing was far lower than the competition. They tried this business model and advertised the change. Over the following year their sales completely tanked. Upon thorough analysis it was concluded that even when the customer is aware that a promotion is generic or simple marketing, they are still far more likely to visit a competitive alternative retailer that advertised a "sale" rather than the retailer that did not even if the pricing is worse. For a better explanation the YT channel "Company Man" did a great upload detailing this. You were lucky with that MPU6000, probably because of it's size and the overall board design simplicity. My first attempt at a similar type of thing involved a large Visio flat screen TV I picked up for free on the curb. I was shocked when I plugged it in and it worked, but soon found out the audio amp chip was toast. It was a STA336. That's a TSSOP package chip but it has one of those large metal ground pads under the chip like a QFN...well...it's actually a chunk of metal a bit larger than the typical QFN. I tried to get it off really carefully, but it was a total failure. The ground plane the chip was connected to was far too efficient at removing heat. By the time I got it up to temperature the tiny pin traces were compromised and failed. The best I can tell, I need a rig to preheat the board from the back side while using hot air from the front, basically I need a pro rework station, to replace a chip like that. It was a hard learned lesson about why expensive rework stations are a thing. It really sucked because that chip was connected to the main processor via I2S so I had to use that specific chip to get it working. Hacking something that complex is well beyond my skill level. Failing at removing the chip and ruining the footprint was a major bummer. However, I was recently looking for some better voltage reference chips and came across an AliEx seller with a bunch of Linear Tech chips listed for cheap. The seller also had a LT3092 (adjustable precision current source) and a LT2450 (16 bit ADC) for less than $2 each along with a review where someone decapped a LT3092 and showed the LT die with LT info on it. Both were only available in a QFN though. I have some of both now I just need to etch breadboard breakouts so I can start trying to let the smoke out. I'm a bit more confident after watching this. Those are both tiny chips. They are even smaller than this MPU6000, so I hope they turn out okay. Thanks for the regular uploads. I like seeing what other hobbyists are doing and working on while facing similar challenges. -Jake
Regarding the TS100 have you considered replacing the power jack on the board with either a new part or a wired connection? When replacing smd components instead of adding solder paste, get yourself some flux and apply liberally. This both aids in holding the part on place and helping the existing solder to flow properly.
For now I'll be using this new iron, but if I do want to use the TS100 again yes I will probably try making it wired instead of plug-in. Now that I have a second iron I can actually do that :) Yes I am aware of flux, didn't seem like it would help much in this case, it turns watery and lubricates things instead of holding them in place, I figured it would make my chip slide away under the hot air flow even more. If I could get the hot air angled exactly directly downward would be fine but then it wouldn't be in video because I'd need to take it out from under the scope.
I am going to be trying my hand at this. I have a flight controller with a bad F4 micro controller chip and another flight controller with a bad MPU6000 gyro. My yaw isn't working most of the time and that's causing my quadcopter to fly straight up at full throttle. So I guess I can choose the one I want to keep and replace parts I get off the other board. I found a place in China where I can buy the parts new but it's a 16 to 25 week lead time.
The baro seems fine. Don't they bake these things in an oven at similar temperatures to stick them on there in the first place? Or is the 'blowing' air somehow a problem?
are you sure you were using the correct barrel connectors? Of the 5.5mm external diameter, there are 2 different internal diameter types, 2.1 and 2.5... i had issues with the 2.5, none with 2.1, if i remember well (i'm not near it to check now)
Nice Chris! I always enjoy the journey with you. I too have been dabbling in smd with the 858D rework station. So much fun to get a blown esc working again. That first board you pulled the mpu6000 probably had much less copper in it. BTW, have two TS100 with hours of club member use and abuse at the field and shop without issue:-) Have you seen Livyu FPV?
@@iforce2d Have you changed orientation? You do not know what could be the problem that, without changing the orientation on my omnibus f4, the arrow indication does not match the actual gyro readings? I tried different firmware and in any of them in the runoff parameters the front part coincides with the usb connector and not with the arrow
You can get away with a small optical scope and a soldering iron on bigger smd components, it just takes practice. I managed to blow my new Taranis X9D STM32F205 processor, when I disonnected the ribbon cables in the TX with the battery still connected! This is how I did it, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cAPU4NHCWd0.html ,100 pins, I do have a rework station but decided to see if I could do it with a small tipped soldering iron.It was difficult but possible, unfortunately I could not record what I was doing, you can get clamps to hold the components in place or you can use a small weight (steel nut) to stop them moving around.
I had 280 on the hot air, not sure how accurate it is though. I usually have to hold the nozzle about 1cm away from the part to get solder to melt like this.
At Banggood everything is on fake promotion (is like black Friday... but every day), even the coupons they are giving to you, they cannot be used because everything is on sale or in promotion. There is no privilege to be VIP level 5 customer. You cannot use the points on what are you interested on ... only on garbage that nobody wants anyway.
I have noticed that I always seem to end up with something in my cart that is a 'promo' item meaning I can't use my points, how convenient, even though the 'promo' is bullshit.
Hi Matt, I only look at FB a couple of times a year (maybe less...) but I have gmail open all day, if you use that - there is a built in chat there, or for mobile I think it runs in the hangouts app.
