Smeg Oven Goes Clunkedy Clunk + Capacitor Go Poop 

Step one, remove interlock motor with xored gears. Two, install mechanical arm extension to the front. Three, combine limit switch mess to a single DPDT on the front for manual input. Optional step four, attach "not to be operated by xwits" warning.

I've seen this many times with a throttle body on the car. That plastic gear likely has a couple of teeth broken off and the motor gear is just spinning in place, not catching anything. I bet if you reached in there with a screwdriver and spun that big gear a little bit, it would work fine from that point on. It just needs a new plastic gear.

What are you doing stealing my work :P I make bank fixing that junk haha

Reminds me of the HVAC blend actuators that are in GMs, Dodges, etc. Same sort of thing. The actuator hits the mechanical stop at the same location on the main spur gear and after enough times, a tooth breaks off from fatigue and the inevitable click of death ensues. Really annoying to listen to when your driving, and even more annoying having to work upside down under the dash to fish the bad one out and put a new one in.

Smeg by name, smeg by nature.

Smegma quality and taste

A former workplace of mine had a problem where they kept changing an oven control board, and then a new repair guy found out the heat vent was clogged with tin foil residue. At an obvious level a capacitor can cause logic errors or maybe lockup in a micro.

Probably not your issue on this one but... On us branded appliances that have relays... I have replaced lots of them on boards. Those Omron relays are not reliable over the long haul. I have even replaced them with larger off board relays just because the quality of those relays isn't very good and they never seen to be able to handle the amps they claim to. Always check for stuck closed relays or burned contacts and high resistance. Sounds like your asynchronous motor may be kaput. Any time I hear or see SMEG all I think of is Red dwarf.

With the high price of SMEG appliances I would have expected something better than "rat's nest" wiring.

13:13 One of the three terminals on that red thing is not connected. That's my professional observation.

We get their retro-themed small appliances here in the US. They are overpriced pieces of garbage.

This oven is way too over complicated. With mine i just pull open the door, put the tray in, turn the knob to 180C and set the timer. Job done. No stupid interlocks and no PCBs with bad caps.

By the sound of it: take the motor assembly off the arm and try it without it. Maybe the actual locking mechanism is just jammed somehow and it tries to actuate it once to check if somebody just bypassed the switches?

That doesn't look like a guts-spill so much as a splash from something else -- a drop of coffee perhaps?

Guess I got lucky the last oven I repaired simply had failed solder joints from all the heat cycles. Nothing some fresh lead can't fix!

"Smeg?!" What a name, about as appealing as "Spunk" bottled water.

You should do a video on the storage lifespan of aluminum electrolytic caps. I purchased a bunch of nichicon caps back in 2015 and recently discovered they started leaking!!! I did some research and found they only have a 2 year storage lifespan.. What the hek!!?

We got a Smeg oven and hated it within days... it has the control panel immediately above the door and very quicky the timer, clock and function buttons (some sort of hard white plastic material) melted from the heat... now all we have is little white nubs as buttons.... still works... but even so, grrrr

My fridge freezer was failing... the repair shop quouted £80 for the callout and £100 if the board needed replaced. On inspection I found a bulged cap on the controller board. Replaced it with an identical one salvaged from a failed monitor for a free repair.

A professional electrical engineer should be able to fix a simple oven. Would expect nothing less.

Is the clicking cog trying to lock or unlock the door? What are the various voltages going into the locking mechanism? It sounds and looks like some smaller diameter cog wheels have stripped. Maybe the oven needs to cycle the lock when repowered?

I reckon you've got a broken gear in that motor assembly.

If the motor keeps spinning does that not mean that the ends stop switch is kaput?

I used to operate An appliance business Many years ago ... Always told customers Not to use the self cleaning Normally they have the Vent Right by the circuit board area .. It's best not to use the self cleaning unless you want to destroy You're strove lol

SMEG, standing for Stupid Made Electronics goods. Failing power supply, so the relays do not release or engage properly, because the power supply ripple is around 20V as the IC runs in startup mode all the time. 33uF can easily be replaced with 47uF to test. Yes the motor has a worn gearbox, kind of common on those cheap motors. Not helped by the failing power supply either. Remember that 105C cap runs at 120C when the oven is in use, so 500 hours will cook it nicely.

Coincidentally, I think my washing machine has finally had it. Today I saw it bouncing around so hard, the front lifted >5cm above the ground! It definitely wasn't overloaded, so it's not user error, but something's definitely broken and it's causing a minor imbalance to send it completely out of whack. Looks like I'll be shopping for a new washer sometime soon.

The brand of the cap is sanwa

6:39 They put the circuit board on top of the hot air exhaust. Seems the food is not the only thing that's getting baked

The capacitor brand is Samwha, the same brand of caps that fails in Samsung TVs.

Door locks on ovens and washing machines are a high failure point in home appliances. The 'samurai appliance repairman' RU-vidr used to complain a lot about electronic controls vs manual controls. How much would a replacement door lock assembly cost?

Well, Red Dwarf did warn you, it's a smeg oven. UK TV SF comedy show in the 80s created the word for useless/crap/junk long before the white goods company was formed. Much like the Vauxhall Nova somehow never took off in Spanish lands

For everyone that thinks this mechanism is too complicated and their oven from 1804 still works fine: you haven't used the self cleaning mode of a modern euro style oven. This function heats the oven to 700°C and gets rid of every single spec of burned in grease and stuff perfectly. Same job takes hours every time with oven cleaner and elbow grease. It's like an induction oven, once you've used one everything else is garbage.

Disconnect the motor mechanically and see if the locking mechanism is able to be actuated by hand. Then get a new motor. Check you're also getting the correct voltage to the board to the motor. That's what I would do because that motor gearbox sounds shot.

shorted relay on 24/7. common,, relay welds itself to shorted when off, check the relays,, if on all the time, simple fix done a few of these, also error 03 is temp sensor issue,, i would surgest ,, back of oven that temp sensor has failed,! replace,! if im correct on is above the door motor makin all the noise, its gone faulty oven got to hot,, so would have sent sensor over the top,, replace it, and it should work,, providing relay not stuck 2 things too look out for cheers lee,

If that is escaped electrolyte it could have caused a voltage leak to or from that diode, seen that happen where a nearby component was at mains potential and the cap was at low voltage thus frying the LV circuit. Capacitors are pure evil just waiting to kill your electronics in new and unusual ways. Those synchronous motors start in any direction and relies on not being able to start in one direction or the other for opening or locking, the same principle is used in central heating valves, so if locked it will open when powered up or the other way around if unlocked. Most likely failure is stripped gear teeth.

Would be a quick fix to replace the small gear on that motor. Best option buy an AEG oven......

Interlockmotor failed or the mechanics of lockmechanism are blocked

Damn, cap spooge is always a great clue!

Maybe is one of the relay on the PCB .

Kryten🗿: Smeeeeg Heeeed

Hi Dave SMEG tech here access to all documentation and parts this oven has built in test modes you can command functions like the lock to function but you wont guess how to get access you will need the service manual. There is a way to hack work around the issue to get the oven working again but you will need a lock. This will be a faulty interlock give me a yell if you need help

Smeg is probably one of the most expensive manufacturers for kitchen equipment. No wonder they would bill 500$ for a board swap. I just checked what their ovens cost in Germany. I couldnt find a "regular" one that is under 2500€ .. WOW

I'm willing to bet that board and the locking motor can be found cheaply. The key is to realize that board is probably used in like all ovens - if you look closely at all the ovens on display in the store the things start to look alike because they are. So that board might be a few hundred bucks because it's the one part, but if you find the generic version it would be much cheaper. Same goes for the motor - chances are if you head to the junkyard you can find that exact same part in pretty much all the ovens there regardless of brand or model. The same design is used everywhere - it's like someone did an oven controller and sold the design to everyone

Too bad it's not a GE (Haier) oven. I could help you out! I'm a service tech for GE Appliances here in the USA. So many of those parts at least look familiar.

3:47, the Caps look like Korean Samwha Caps. Should be somewhat OKish/decent...

These lockings are kind of bummer as you could master your oven to bake ok pizzas with that "cleaning" mode temps ;-)

Why expensive brands make cheap looking boards is beyond me. I would've expected a decent board with conformal coating and quality capacitors.

You have a broken gear in the motor

Terrible oven. We have one too. When it fails it’s going to landfill asap.

Replace the micro switches

If you can’t find it; grind it! 😬

Broken teeth on the gear drive

well, excuse me, but if I am measuring a capacitor as OK, then this is surely included by the ESR value. Failed. .... Excuse ...

single sided board with a handful of components... $500. !!! And no access to schematics. Sounds about right. Really shouldn't be legal.

Chipped tooth in the gear

First thing would be to remove the locking arm from the motor. See if it's tight when moving it manually. The clattering noise does indicate a stripped gear. But there will be a reason it's stripped if that is the case. Synchronous motors don't have any real horse power which is the reason for the gearbox. Even if you find it's a knackered gear, good luck getting another one. No doubt a replacement assy unit would be as much as a new kidney 😁

Samyoung caps or samwha

For once YT points me to something worth watching when I search "poop".

oven for smeg heads by smeg heads?

FO3 error sounds like f*** off 3 times in a row

No self-respecting engineer buys SMEG appliances.

Smeg oven, seriously? 🤣

sounds like a stripped gear

Sell the board though ;)

That's why I have an oven that is basically a gas valve on a metal pipe. Why on earth would you need all this nonsense for? That thing is at least as complex as a washing machine... what for? You just turn the heat on, wait X minutes and food's done. As it is always said, if it works, don't fix it. We've been cooking food like this for thousands of years and it still works, so no need for such overcomplicated drama.

My bet is a broken tooth on that plastic gear

sounds like a busted tooth on the gear.

Needs a Plastic Dentist for new gear teeth.

A Smeg appliance would never sell in the US, at least not to uncircumcised men. I'm not going to explain any further than that. But it's the truth.

WTF is a smeg oven???????

devi sostituire il motorino si e danneggiato

Fixing an overpriced underdelivering piece of crap again, eh? Time to roll out a 3D printer or bypass the damn thing altogether...